The first choice for me was the fiber: I chose the Merino Bamboo blend that I carry in the shop. It's simply divine. I made one sweater in it last year and after a few hours of wearing it, I was in love. I dyed myself 4 more colorways and awaited a sweater that was just right. Up came my idea for Tappan Zee. I wanted drape, shine, and something soft and luxurious. This sweater is a lacy, open, short sleeve/vest cardi that is the perfect little garment to bridge winter into summer. It'll work perfectly as a little warmth over a long sleeve shirt in spring, or over a tank in the summer. It's a sweet little top with movement and flowyness that will just help harbor in the warmer breezy days at the beach. My plan is to wear this all summer long when I need a little bit of something on my back and shoulders over skinny Camis. |
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model: Amy King photos: 9goingon20 |
SIZE |
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS |
MATERIALS Merino Bamboo Blend [60% merino, 40% bamboo]; 2 ply Sport weight Note: Everyone spins differently so telling you how much fiber you will need can be a tricky proposition. I used 8 ounces to get 680 yards. I spin light and lofty to get the most out of my fiber. If you spin dense or use a denser fiber, you will need significantly more. If you choose to use Merino or Merino Bamboo, my fiber estimates are 8(8, 10, 10, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18) ounces. This amount doesn't take into account additional fiber for sampling, errors, or changes of mind. Finished Yarn
singles Z on 22:1 ratio, sliding long draw Commercial Yarn Alternative Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool [45% wool, 35% silk, 20% nylon; 192yd/175m per 50g skein]; 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6] skeins Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique] 1 US #6/4mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer Tools |
GAUGE |
PATTERN NOTES |
sk2p: Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. 2 sts decreased. T2R: K into front of second st on left needle without dropping st from left needle; k into first st on left needle, drop both first and second sts from left needle. Diamond Pattern (Worked over a multiple
of 9 sts + 2):
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DIRECTIONS First Section: CO 96[104, 108, 116, 120, 128, 136, 144, 152] sts. K 7 rows. Buttonhole Row [WS]: K2, k2tog, yo, k to end. Next Row [RS]: K5, place marker, k to last 5 sts, place marker, k5. Important: From this point on, maintain first and last 5 sts in garter st (k every row) to form front bands. For every row except buttonhole rows, k first and last 5 sts. Work 3 rows in stockinette st. Second Section: Work Rows 1-6 of Diamond Pattern.
Third Section: Work Rows 1-12 of Diamond Pattern. Lower Yoke Border:
Next Row [WS]: K5, p40[43, 46, 48, 50, 53, 55, 58, 60], BO next 51[63, 63, 70, 70, 76, 83, 95, 101] sts purlwise, p until there are 90[94, 99, 104, 111, 115, 120, 124, 130] sts on needle after bound off sts, BO next 51[63, 63, 70, 70, 76, 83, 95, 101] sts purlwise, p to marker, k5. 180[190, 201, 210, 221, 231, 240, 250, 260] sts. Next Row [RS]: [K to 1 st before bound off sts, T2R]
twice, k to end. This tightens up the joins at the
underarms and prevents loose sts or ladders from forming
at these points. Diamond Motifs: |
FINISHING |
ABOUT THE DESIGNER |
Amy
King is a crazy homeschooling mom by day,
whacked-out dye maven by night. Her first
book, Spin
Control: Techniques for Spinning the Yarns
You Want, is
available at your favorite spinning store. |
All contents are copyright Amy King 2010. They are for personal
use only. Please do not distribute or
copy in any part or as a whole without
express written permission from Amy King
and Spunky Eclectic. |