Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Hiya Hiya Inc
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

Flappy Flounder doesn’t get his name from the slim profile and awkward locomotion; it’s because flounder are notorious as the gossips of the ocean.

They spend so much time skulking about, pressed up against the ocean floor, surreptitiously watching all the goings on for so long their eyeballs actually migrate around to better see the juicy parts!

Then they gather around and flap their lips until they’ve dished all they can & then go off and do it all again.

(Not really, here’s the true story.)


spacer photos: cheezombie

SIZE
Size is determined by size of yarn and needles used.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Flounders shown range from approx. 2-12 inches in diameter.

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MATERIALS
Almost any yarn will work with this pattern. Toys shown were knit with weights ranging from lace to super bulky. Only a small amount of yarn is required (5-60yd, depending on weight), so this is a good project for using up scraps. See gauge notes below when choosing needle size.

Yarn

Large purple/orange flounder:
spacer [MC] Malabrigo Rasta [100% merino wool; 90yd/82m per 150g skein]; color: #850 Archangel
spacer [CC] Cascade Lana Grande [100% wool; 87yd/80m per 100g skein]; color: #6010
Recommended needle size
spacer 1 set US#11/8mm double-point needles

Mid-sized blue/green/beige/brown flounder:
Red Heart Super Saver [100% acrylic; 244yd/223m per 141g skein];
spacer [MC] #0305 Aspen Print
spacer [CC] #0311 White
Recommended needle size
spacer 1 set US#4/3.5mm double-point needles

Mid-sized blue/pink/purple/yellow flounder:
spacer [MC] Aspen Moon Arts Handpainted Mini Skein [100% merino wool; 42yd/38m per 20g skein]
spacer [CC] KnitPicks Bare Swish Worsted [100% superwash merino wool; 220yd/201m per 100g skein]; undyed
Recommended needle size
spacer 1 set US#3/3.25mm double-point needles

Small green/brown flounder:
spacer [MC] EA Yarns Andes [100% wool; 165yd/151m per 100g skein]; color: #05
spacer [CC] KnitPicks Bare Swish Worsted [100% superwash merino wool; 220yd/201m per 100g skein]; undyed
Recommended needle size
spacer 1 set US#3/3.25mm double-point needles

Small green flounder*[see notions]:
spacer [MC] KnitPicks Shadow [merino wool; 440yd/402m per 50g skein]; color: #0305 Springtime Tonal

Recommended needle size
spacer 1 set US#3/3.25mm double-point needles

Notions
spacer Yarn needle
spacer Small amount of black yarn or embroidery thread
spacer Small amount of stuffing
spacer *Instead of knitted eyes, beads were used to make eyes for the small green version.
Beads used: Blue Moon Beads; Bits & Baubles #40

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GAUGE

Exact gauge is not important for this project; however, it is important to knit tightly to obtain a firm fabric (this is more important for eyes than for body/fins). Use needles that are several sizes smaller than size recommended on ball band.

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Knit into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.

DIRECTIONS

BODY

Tail:
Using one double-point needle and MC, loosely CO 8 sts.
Rows 1-3: K all sts.
Row 4: Ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
Row 5: [Kfb] six times. 12 sts.
Redistribute sts between two double-point needles as follows: *sl first st to first needle, slip next st to second needle; repeat from * until each of two needles holds 6 sts. From this point, body will be worked in the round. Use additional needles as desired.






Body:
Rounds 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4: [Kfb, k4, kfb] twice. 16 sts.
Round 5: K all sts.
Round 6: [Kfb, k6, kfb] twice. 20 sts.
Round 7: K all sts.
Round 8: [Kfb, k8, kfb] twice. 24 sts.
Round 9: K all sts.
Round 10: [Kfb, k10, kfb] twice. 28 sts.
Round 11: K all sts.
Round 12: [Kfb, k12, kfb] twice. 32 sts.
Round 13: K all sts.
Round 14: [Kfb, k14, kfb] twice. 36 sts.
Round 15: K all sts.
Round 16: [Kfb, k16, kfb] twice. 40 sts.
Rounds 17-21: K all sts.
Round 22: [Ssk, k16, k2tog] twice. 36 sts.
Round 23: K all sts.
Round 24: [Ssk, k14, k2tog] twice. 32 sts.
Round 25: K all sts.
Round 26: [Ssk, k12, k2tog] twice. 28 sts.
Round 27: K all sts.
Round 28: [Ssk, k10, k2tog] twice. 24 sts.
Round 29: [Ssk, k8, k2tog] twice. 20 sts.
Round 30: [Ssk, k6, k2tog] twice. 16 sts.
Round 31: [Ssk, k4, k2tog] twice. 12 sts.
Round 32: [Ssk, k2, k2tog] twice. 8 sts.

Mouth:
K 2 rounds.
Next Round: [K1, kfb, kfb, k1] twice.
K 3 rounds.
Loosely BO all sts. Weave in ends; most ends can just be tucked inside body. Roll BO edge outward to form lips. Lightly stuff body if desired (toys shown have not been stuffed).

LONG FIN
All fins and flippers are worked using MC. Fins are attached to body as they are worked.  When instructed to pick up st in body, insert tip of left needle in st at side edge of body. For long fin, begin picking up sts in first increase round after tail as shown below. When working fin, pick up 1 st for each round of body, working toward mouth – 2 rows of fin will be worked for each round of body.

CO 1 st.
Row 1: Kfb. 2 sts.
Row 2: Kfb, sl 1 purlwise, pick up st in body, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 3 sts.

Row 3: K3.
Row 4: Kfb, k1, sl 1 purlwise, pick up st in body, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 4 sts.
Row 5: K4.
Row 6: K3, sl 1 purlwise, pick up st in body, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog tbl.
Row 7: K4.
Repeat Rows 6-7 until 6 rounds of body remain before base of mouth.

Row 8: Ssk, k1, sl 1 purlwise, pick up st in body, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 3 sts.
Row 9: K3.
Row 10: Ssk, sl 1 purlwise, pick up st in body, return slipped st to left needle, k2tog tbl. 2 sts.
Row 11: K2.
Row 12: Ssk, pick up st in body, return ssk just worked left needle, k2tog tbl. 1 st.
Break yarn and draw through remaining st. Weave in ends.

SHORT FIN

Work short fin in the same way as long fin, along opposite side of body. Begin picking up sts 7 rounds from base of mouth as shown below. Work Row 8 of fin shaping when 5 rounds remain before tail.


FRONT FLIPPER
Note: If desired, flippers can be knit separately and sewn on later, instead of being worked from picked-up sts.
Choose which side of toy will be the top. With top of toy facing, pick up 2 sts in space between short fin and mouth as shown below. Join MC.


Row 1: K2.
Row 2: Kfb, k1. 3 sts.
Row 3: K3.
Row 4: Kfb, k2. 4 sts.
Row 5: K4.
BO all sts. Weave in ends.

TOP FLIPPER
Pick up 2 sts in top of body as shown above, slightly to left of center and approx. 12 rounds from base of mouth. Work as for front flipper.

EYES
Note: If using fine yarn, you may wish to make eyes from beads or buttons instead of knitting eyes. If desired, eyes can be knit separately and then sewn on, instead of being worked from picked-up sts.

Using CC, pick up and k 8 sts in top of toy, in two parallel rows as shown below. Eyes are worked in the round.


Round 1: K all sts.
Round 2: [K1, LLI] eight times. 16 sts.
Rounds 3-6: K all sts.
Round 7: [Ssk] eight times. 8 sts.
Break yarn and draw loosely through remaining sts. Stuff eye, then pull yarn tail tight to close. Weave in ends and make a second eye in the same way.
Use black yarn or embroidery thread to embroider pupils as shown below.



 
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Cheezombie often finds herself bleary eyed and finger sore, but still knitting and watching slasher movies and cartoons, at 2 a.m.  The byproducts of these late-night sessions fuel others, whereby creating a cycle of sleeplessness and creativity and funny critters.

Her Knitting Manifesto:
1. Projects should take no longer than a few hours from start to finish.
2. Projects should have few or no seams to sew up at the end.
3. Projects should be made in one piece, or the absolute minimum of pieces necessary.
4. Projects should use the simplest stitches to get the desired effects as possible.

5. And above all, they should be quick and fun enough to knit over and over until you have little herds of funny critters following you about the house.
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