by Claudia Geiger

The Grande Plage, or Great Beach, on the Ile d’Oleron off the West Coast of France must be one of the most beautiful places on earth. Exposed to the ocean, it never looks the same twice. At high tide, the waves roll right up to the dunes, while at low tide you have to walk for almost half a mile to reach the waterline. The ocean brings in all kinds of flotsam: Shells, jellyfish in various colors, driftwood and seaweed. Together with the sand, sky and ocean, they create a glorious color scheme of dark blue, aqua, beige and white.

When I was thinking about spinning for a summer cardigan, I wanted to capture these colors and the summery, beachy feeling I associate with them. The Grande Plage cardigan is an easy to wear, tunic-length cardigan with a low neckline and a slight a-line silhouette that flatters any figure and looks just as nice over a sundress as with jeans and a tank top. The Chevron Lace pattern beautifully shows off the colors of yarn spun from hand-dyed roving. The cardigan is worked top-down, seamless, with set in sleeves. This construction makes it easy to adjust the pattern on the go, e.g. if the gauge of your handspun is a little inconsistent or if you want a shorter cardigan. The merino/bamboo blend provides warmth without being too warm for summer.

This is also a great pattern for spinning novices and non-spinners. If you don’t feel like spinning for a whole cardigan, just substitute a commercial yarn for the main color, or even combine a commercial yarn and your handspun for the Chevron Lace part. Or you could shorten the cardigan all together for more of a bolero style with maybe 3 inches of lace trim. For non-spinners, this is a great opportunity to indulge in some of the wonderful hand-dyed sock and fingering weight yarns available now.

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

MATERIALS
Fiber:
[MC] FatCatKnits [60% merino, 40% bamboo; top] color: undyed, 2.5[3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5.5, 6] ounces
[CC] FatCatKnits [60% merino, 40% bamboo; top]; color: custom (for a similiar look, I suggest Splash or Cool Madras); 4[4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 7] ounces

Finished Yarn:
Wraps per inch: 22 (plied)
Ply: Chain ply (3-ply)
Yardage used:
[MC] Approx 283[319, 367, 420, 501, 589, 678] yards
[CC] Approx 405[435, 490, 524, 618, 698, 760] yards
Note:
Every spinner is different, and the yardage you get from a 4oz braid of top can vary greatly according to the way you spin and the fiber you use. I've calculated the fiber requirements and yardage as best I could based on the amounts I used for my own cardigan, rounding up to the next half oz. Note that the amounts listed do not include fiber for swatching and experimenting. When in doubt, buy more rather than less. If you have too much fiber or yarn, you can always use it for socks.

	Spinning Tool: Ashford Traveller; [scotch tension] Niddy Noddy: Ashford, 1.5m Lazy Kate: built-in Ashford Traveller kate

Drafting Method:
short forward draw

Commercial Yarn Alternative:
[MC] Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock [80% merino, 20% nylon; 430 yd/393m per 100g skein]; color: natural; 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC] Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock [80% merino, 20% nylon; 430 yd/393m per 100g skein]; color: Seaside; 1 [2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #4/3.5mm double-point needles
24-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle

Tools
2 removable stitch markers
waste yarn or spare circular needle
darning needle
1 small button

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

m1l (make 1 left): Lift strand between needles from front to back; knit this stitch through the back loop.
m1r (make 1 right): Lift strand between needles from back to front; knit this stitch.
S2KP2: Slip 2 sts together as if to knit, knit next st, pass 2 slipped sts over knit st.

Backwards loop cast on: Bend yarn into a loop, twist and place on needle. Repeat until desired number of stitches are cast on.

Adjusting the length:
Since this cardigan is knit top-down, it's very easy to adjust the length to your liking. Just knit in patt until cardigan measures 0.5 inch less than desired length, add 0.5 inch of garter st and bind off.
If you only have a little amount of a special yarn you want to use, just knit until you almost run out of yarn, then add the garter edge. In this case, I suggest knitting the sleeves first and using the rest of the yarn up on the body.

DIRECTIONS
BACK
With circular needle, long tail cast on, and MC, CO 85[89, 97, 103, 109, 113, 125] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.

Row 2 [RS]: Knit.

Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 5.75[6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches.

Shape Armholes:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to last st, m1l, k1. 2 sts increased.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5] more times.

Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO 2 sts using back loop cast on.

Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2 sts using back loop cast on.

Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5] more times. 8[10, 12, 14, 20, 16, 22] sts increased, 93[99, 109, 117, 129, 145, 161] sts.

Put piece on waste yarn or spare circular needle.

RIGHT FRONT
With right side of back piece facing, and starting at upper right corner, pick up and knit 23[24, 26, 28, 29, 30, 34] sts, 1 st for each st of back piece.

Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Row 2 [RS]: Knit.

Rep these 2 rows once more.

Note: Neck shaping starts before and is worked at the same time as armhole and waist shaping. Read the following section all the way through before proceeding.

Shape Neck:
Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Increase Row [RS]: K1, knit to last st, m1l, k1. 1 st increased.
Cont to work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st. Rep Increase Row every 6th row 19[19, 17, 18, 16, 16, 14] more times, then every 4th row 0[1, 5, 5, 9, 10, 14] more times. 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29] sts increased.

Shape Armhole:
Work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st, until piece measures 5.75[6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to end. 1 st increased.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.
Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5] more times.
Next Row [RS]: Knit.
Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2 sts using back loop cast on.
Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5] more times. 4[5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9] sts increased.
Break yarn and put piece on waste yarn or spare circular needle.

Shape Neck:
Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to last st, k1. 1 st increased.

Cont to work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st and rep Increase Row every 6th row19[19, 17, 18, 16, 16, 14] more times, then every 4th row 0[1, 5, 5, 9, 10, 14] more times. 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29] sts increased.

Shape Armhole:
Work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st, until piece measures 5.75[6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, knit to last st, m1l, k1. 1 st increased.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Rep these 2 rows 1[2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5] more times.

Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO 2 sts using backwards loop cast on.

Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5] more times. 4[5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9] sts increased.

Join Pieces:
Next Row [RS]: Knit across left front. Using back loop cast-on, CO 7[11, 11, 13, 21, 25, 29] sts for underarm. Knit across back. CO 7[11, 11, 13, 21, 25, 29] sts for underarm. Knit across right front. 14[22, 22, 26, 42, 50, 58] sts increased. Using removable st markers, mark center underarm stitch. This is your side seam stitch. Move marker along as you knit.

Work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st, until piece measures 1.25 inches from underarm. End with WS row.

Cont to work in St st until last Increase Row of neck shaping.
End on a WS row.

Break yarn. 181[201, 221, 241, 281, 321, 361] sts. Piece measures 12.5[13, 13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 15] inches from shoulder.

BODY
Join CC.

Establish chevron lace patt as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k2, *YO, k1, YO, k3, S2KP2, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts, YO, k1, YO, k2, SSK, k1. Center seam sts should fall on the knit st between yarn overs or on the center st of the k3tog.

Row 2 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 6.5 inches from color change, ending on a WS row.

Shape Hip:
Note: Cont to work in chevron lace patt. Increases are worked as on both sides of the center seam st. If your center seam st is in the middle of the k3tog, simply k3 instead of the k3tog. K3tog on all RS rows that are not Increase Rows. If your center seam st is between 2 yos, work m1l, knit seam st, m1r on Increase Rows. Increased sts are then always worked in St st. This creates a St st gusset on each side of the center seam st.

Increase Row [RS]: *Knit to marker, inc 1 st as specified in note, knit seam st, inc 1 st as specified in note; rep from * , knit to end. 4 sts increased.
Next Row [WS]: Purl.
Cont to work in patt, rep Increase Row every 4th row 5[5, 4, 4, 2, 2] more times, then every 6th row 5[5, 6, 6, 8, 8] more times. 44 sts increased, 225 [245, 265, 285, 325, 365, 405] sts.

Cont to work garter st for 0.5 inch. BO loosely.

With MC, CO 16[18, 18, 20, 23, 26, 28] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Row 2 [RS]: Knit. Cont to work in patt.

At end of next 4 rows, CO twice 4 sts, then twice 3 sts, using back loop cast on. 14 sts increased.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1r, knit to last st, m1l, k1. 2 sts increased.

Next Row [WS]: K1, p to last st, k1.

Cont to work in St st, working all selvedge sts in garter st and rep Increase Row every 2nd[2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 4th, 4th, 2nd] row 6[3, 4, 3, 3, 1, 2] more times, then every 4th [4th, 4th, 4th, 6th, 6th, 4th] row 2[5, 5, 7, 2, 5, 9] times, then every 2nd [2nd, 2nd, 2nd, 4th, 4th, 2nd] row 8[6, 8, 8, 4, 2, 9] more times, then every 2nd row 0[0, 0, 0, 6, 6, 0] more times.

Next Row [RS]: Knit to end, CO 2 sts using back loop cast on.

Next Row [WS]: K1, purl to end, CO 2 sts using back loop cast on.

Rep these 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 4, 5] more times.

Join Sleeve:
Next Rnd [RS]: Knit. Using back loop cast-on, CO 3[10, 10, 12, 20, 24, 28] sts, pm for beg of rnd, CO 3[10, 10, 12, 20, 24, 28] sts. Join rnd.
Work in St st until sleeve measures 0.5[0.5, 0.75, 0.75, 0.75, 1, 1] inch from underarm. Break yarn and join CC.

Establish chevron lace patt as follows:
Rnd 1: K2[3, 1, 0, 3, 3, 2], *YO, k1, YO, k3, S2KP2, k3; rep from * to last 2[3, 1, 0, 2, 3, 2] sts, k to end.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds until piece measures 2[2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 3, 3] inches from underarm.
Work 0.5 inch in garter st. Loosely BO. Repeat for second sleeve.

FINISHING
Next Row [RS]: With RS of garment facing and starting at lower corner of right front, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows along right front edge, then one st for every st along back neck, then 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge. Work 2 rows in garter st.
Buttonhole Row [WS]: Knit to color change on right front. YO, k2tog, knit to end.
Cont in garter st until edging measures 0.5 inch in width. BO loosely.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Attach button opposite to buttonhole on left side edging. Weave in all ends. Lightly block, let dry.

Claudia spins and knits in Berne, Switzerland. She works as a construction law lawyer for the government to fund her fiber addiction.