Crystal socklet: Knitty Spring+Summer 2012

by Lynn DT Hershberger aka ColorJoy LynnH

A common complaint about afterthought heels is that they don't fit well. Often they are too shallow. This happens when the heel is made exactly as we might make a toe.

The crystal heel is deeper, with facets of decreases accelerating as one knits. This makes a more human-shaped sock heel. The extra rounds at the beginning of a Crystal Heel compensate for the lack of a gusset, and create a sort of shaped arch as well.

Since this is not a standard afterthought heel it may look long and awkward when off the foot. The proof is in the wearing!

This toe-up sock uses a flat-knit Bosnian stockinette square toe. Both the toe and heel are shaped in a swirl rather than a wedge shaping. Swirls are common in historical knitting and have a soft, pleasant look. They fit a heel particularly well.

photos: Rachel Meyers


SIZE Women’s XS [S. M, L], to fit US shoe sizes 4-5 [6-7, 8-9, 10-11]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 6.9[7.5, 8, 8.5] inches
Foot length: 8.5[9.25, 10, 10.75] inches (or knit to fit)

MATERIALS
Yarn
Yarn Hollow Squish [60% Merino Superwash, 30% Bamboo, 10% Nylon; 434 yd per 4oz/113g skein]
Sock 1: blue body, purple toes
[MC] Winter Lake; 1 skein
[CC1] Royal Purple; 1 skein
[CC2] Single Malt; 1 skein

Sock 2: pink body, purple toes
[MC] Stormy Fuchsia; 1 skein
[CC1] Royal Purple; 1 skein
[CC2] Winter Lake; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1/2.25mm needles for working in the round
US #3/3.25mm needles for working in the round in Stranded Colorwork

Notions
stitch markers
short length of smooth waste yarn in contrasting color
yarn needle

GAUGE

30 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the rnd using smaller needles
30 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches in stranded colorwork in the rnd using larger needles

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The toe uses a backwards loop CO because it is not bulky and is effective for a small number of sts. If you prefer and know how, use a provisional CO.

Because stranded colorwork is structurally less stretchy than one-color knitting, this pattern specifies a larger needle size for the colorwork sections. In the leg section, it must stretch sufficiently to pull on over the heel of your foot.

The stranded-knitting stitches should be able to stretch on the needle, resting at least as far apart as your needle is wide. It is good practice at first, to knit perhaps 8-16 stitches and then stop and stretch them on the needle before proceeding. Make sure the unused strands of yarn on the inside of the sock are relaxed enough to allow this desired stretch.

In the same vein, be sure that your bind off is similarly relaxed. Binding off is naturally un-stretchy. A relaxed bind off may look a little wobbly off the foot. It will, however, be an asset when you pull the sock over your heel.

If you are new to knitting with two colors in the same round, hold the yarns any way which is comfortable to you. There are strong opinions on the “best” way to do it, but the same fabric will result whether you hold one color in either hand or control both colors with the same hand. If you typically knit primarily with your right hand controlling the yarn, I suggest just dropping the un-used yarn and picking up the new color as needed. If you do this, don’t twist the yarns around each other – that will just tighten up your fabric and drive you insane.

When picking up the heel stitches, using needles one or two sizes smaller than your working needle to pick up stitches can help ease the process. Remember to start knitting the first round of the heel with your regular-sized needle.

Grafting: Instructions for grafting can be found here.

ZigZag #1
Round 1: [K2 CC1, k2 CC2] around.
Round 2: [K1 CC2, k2 CC1, k1 CC2] around.
Round 3: [K2 CC2, k2 CC1] around.
Round 4: [K1 CC1, k2 CC2, k1 CC1] around.
Round 5: [K2 MC, k2 CC2] around
Round 6: [K1 MC, k2 CC2, k1 MC] around.
Round 7: [K2 CC2, k2 MC] around.
Round 8: [K1 CC2, k2 MC, k1 CC2] around.

ZigZag #2
Round 1: [K2 MC, k2 in CC2] around.
Round 2: [K1 CC2, k2 in MC, k1 in CC2] around.
Round 3: [K2 CC2, k2 in MC] around.
Round 4: [K1 MC, k2 in CC2, k1 in MC] around.
Round 5: [K2 CC1, k2 CC2] around.
Round 6: [K1 CC1, k2 CC2, k1 in CC1] around.
Round 7: [K2 CC2, k2 CC1] around.
Round 8: [K1 CC2, k2 CC1, k1 CC2] around.

DIRECTIONS
Toe up cast on
Using smaller needles, CC1 and the backward loop method, CO 10 sts. Do not use a slip knot to start. Just hold the yarn with the ndl in your right hand and start making loops.

Toe rectangle
This flat rectangle will become the very tip of your sock.
Row 1 [RS]: K.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 more times. 12 rows in total.

Establish the round:
We now will knit around the edge of the rectangle. This involves picking up and knitting (creating new sts) on the 3 edges where you do not have live sts on your ndl.

Toe Transition:
With RS facing, k5: this will become the start of round. Place a marker or start a new needle at this point. Continue working around: k5 to end of live stitches; pick up and knit 4 sts along first edge of toe rectangle; pickup and knit 9 sts in cast-on edge of rectangle; pick up and knit 5 sts along second edge of toe rectangle. 28 sts total; K5 to get to start of round.

You are positioned in the center of the sole; the first 7 sts of the round are the first side of the sole; the next 14 are the instep, and the last 7 are the second side of the sole.

Distribute sts as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Swirl toe increase:
Continuing in CC1, begin working in stockinette in the rnd, increasing as follows:
Round 1: K7, pm, k7, pm, k7, pm, k7.
Round 2: [K to 1 st before marker, m1, k1] 4 times. 4 sts increased.
Round 3: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 2 & 3 until 56[60, 64, 68] sts total.

Foot
Change to larger needles and work ZigZag Pattern #1 around.

When 8 rows of pattern are complete, change back to smaller needles.

Continue to work solid in MC until sock measures 6.75[7, 7.5, 7.75] inches from tip of toe.

Note: At this row gauge, your Crystal heel will measure 2.38[2.66, 2.85, 3.14] inches long. If you wish to adjust to your own foot, subtract that amount from your desired finished sock length.

Heel setup:
Transition to heel: Using MC, k42[45, 48, 51] sts. This puts you at the start of the heel stitches.

Leave your working yarn where it is, dangling at the side of the sock.
Switch to waste yarn and knit 28[30, 32, 34] sts. Cut ends of waste yarn about 4 inches from sock, hanging to outside until later. Do not tie knots.

Go back to where you left your working yarn. Using that yarn, k 14[15, 16, 17] sts in MC to return to start of rnd.

Leg
Round 1: K all sts with MC.
Change to larger needles and work ZigZag Pattern #2 around.

Cuff
Break yarn CC2, the rest of the sock will be knit in CC1.
Switch to smaller needles.
Rounds 1 & 2: K all sts.
Round 3: P all sts.
Repeat Rounds 2 & 3.
Repeat Round 2.
BO purlwise, using larger needle in right hand to work the stitches.

Crystal Heel

Secure Stitches:
Hold sock so that the toe is down. Using the smaller needles, pick up the 28[30, 32, 34] sts on top of the waste yarn, picking up the right-side leg of the V-shaped stitches. Then pick up the corresponding 28[30, 32, 34] sts below the waste yarn, picking up the right-side leg of the V-shaped stitches.

Note: If you turn the sock upside down to pick up some sts, you may end up with one extra st (which you can dec out during the first knit rnd).

Once your sts are secured, pick the waste yarn out of the gap between ndls, using a strong knitting ndl, a darning ndl, or a crochet hook. You may cut the waste yarn ends shorter at times, to ease this process.

When the waste yarn is completely removed, you will begin working in the rnd from bottom of sole/beg of rnd. If the sts on the ndls for this first rnd are seated incorrectly, adjust them as you work the first rnd. Place a marker or note the start of the round.

Part 1 -- Knit without Decreases:
Every size of Crystal Heel starts with 3 rnds even, to compensate for not having gusset depth. In this pattern those rnds are decorative.
Round 1: Using MC, (k14[15, 16, 17], pm) 3 times, k to end of round.
Round 2-3: Using CC2, k all sts.

Cut MC and CC2. The rest of the sock will be completed in CC1.

Part 2 -- Decrease Every 4th Round:
Round 1-3: K all sts.
Round 4, Swirl Decrease Round: (K to 2 sts before marker, k2tog) 4 times. 4 sts decreased.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 2[3, 4, 4] more times. 44[44, 44, 48] stitches rem.

Part 3 -- Decrease Every 2nd Round:
Round 1: K all sts
Round 2: Work Swirl Decrease Round
Repeat Rounds 1-2 3[2, 1, 3] more times. 28[32, 36, 32] stitches rem.

Part 4 -- Decrease Every Round:
Work Swirl Decrease Round: 2[3, 3, 2] times. 20[20, 24, 24] stitches rem.

Part 5 -- Kitchener/Graft or otherwise close heel:
Cut yarn leaving a 12 inch tail. Kitchener stitch/graft final sts on heel together, or turn the sock inside out and use a three-needle BO (its minimal extra bulk is not typically detectable during wearing, because of its position on the foot).

FINISHING
Notice that there are small gaps which form on either side at top of heel (where ends of waste yarn were located). Use MC on a sharp darning ndl to make a loop/drawstring on the inside around the hole. Once you stitch the loop around, pull loop tight and use your sharp needle end to pierce the drawstring on either side of the loop (cutting circle in half). This will hold the hole closed.

Weave ends inside sock. Block with water or steam, ideally drying on a sock blocker to maintain a recognizable foot shape while sock is flat.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

ColorJoy LynnH has been obsessed with color since childhood, and socks since the wildly-colorful 70’s. In 2001 she discovered one could knit her own socks. Life changed. Lynn focuses on stranded colorwork (Turkish Socks, Andean Hats and more). The more colors, the better!

Lynn was honored to teach at Sock Summit 2011 (including Turkish Socks and Crystal Heels). She has a design in the book Joy of Socks, and has been published in KnitCircus, CraftSanity Magazine, MagKnits and Heels & Toes Gazette.

Sometimes she also sings with her husband Brian Hefferan at Ukulele Festivals, as The Fabulous Heftones. Visit LynnH’s website.