by Ashley Dale

The front, back, and sleeves of this semi-fitted pullover are knit sideways in reverse stockinette stitch, casting on at the left edge and casting off at the right. Horizontal stockinette cables travel asymmetrically across the hips and waist, adding definition and short rows are used for bust shaping.

To top it off, an optional Gardenia corsage can be pinned on the shoulder for dressy occasions, left off entirely, or borrowed by another sweater.

SIZE
Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size S with 2" positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 21[21.5, 22, 22.5, 23, 23.5, 24] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
[MC] Classic Elite Classic Silk Yarn [50% Cotton, 30% Silk, 20% Nylon; 135 yds/50 g skein]; 6916: Natural; 7 [8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 14] skeins
[CC] Classic Elite Classic Silk Yarn [50% Cotton, 30% Silk, 20% Nylon; 135 yds/50 g skein]; 6905: Old Lilac; 1 [1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US#5/3.75mm straight needles
1 set US#3/3.25mm double-point needles
Cable needle

Notions
Yarn needle
1 pearl button, three-eighths inch (9 mm) size

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

All pieces are knit from side to side in reverse stockinette stitch.

When changing colors for the cabling make sure to twist the yarn tightly between changes. The main color should be pulled taut behind the cables to make them pop and the contrasting color should be stranded loosely behind the main color stitches.

Throughout pattern, continue to work each stitch in the color used to CO; if the stitch is already on the needle, work it using the same color yarn that was previously used.

Charts A, B, and C (front charts)
CF5 [RS] : slip 5 CC sts to cn and hold to front, p 1 MC st, k 5 sts from cn
CF5 [WS]: slip 1 MC st to cn and hold to front, p 5 CC sts, k 1 st from cn
CF11: slip 5 CC sts to cn and hold to front, p 1 MC st, k 5 CC sts, k5 sts from cn

Charts D, E, and F (back charts)
CB5 [RS] : slip 1 MC st to cn and hold to back, k 5 CC sts, p 1 st from cn
CB5 [WS]: slip 5 CC sts to cn and hold to back, k 1 st from CN, p 5 CC sts from cn
CB11: slip 5 CC sts to cn and hold to back, p 1 MC st, k 5 CC sts, k5 sts from cn

DIRECTIONS
FRONT
CO 33 sts in MC, 5 sts in CC, 1 st in MC, 5 sts in CC, 5 sts in MC, 5 sts in CC, and 32 sts in MC. 86 sts cast on.

Note: Bust shaping, shoulder and neck shaping and the transverse cable chart are all worked AT THE SAME TIME. Please read all sections carefully before beginning so that you start them at the correct place.

Cable pattern:
When knitting measures 1[1, 2, 3, 3.75, 4.75, 5.6] inches from the CO edge begin to work cables from Chart A as follows on the next RS row:

Row 1 [RS]: Work in patt as set until 53 sts remain on left needle, work all sts of Row one of Gardenias chart A, work in patt as set to end of row.

Continue to work cables from Charts A, B, and C until all rows have been worked and piece measures 16[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] inches across the bust.
and AT THE SAME TIME
Bust shaping:
Row 1 [WS]: p16, k16, p5, k5, p5, k1, p5, k33. 86 sts

Row 2 [RS]: p33, k5, p1, k5, p5, k5, p16, k16.

Row 3 [WS]: Win patt as established (i.e. k the k sts, p the p sts).

Row 4 [RS]: Work short row shaping in the following manner: p20, turn, k20, turn, work in patt as established to end of row.

Row 5 [WS]: Rep Row 1.
Sizes XS and S only:
Row 6 [RS]: Work in patt as established until 32 sts remain on the needle, then p27, k5.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, and 3X only:
Row 6 [RS]: P20, turn, k20, turn; work in patt as established until 32 sts remain on the needle, then p27, k5.

Row 7 [WS] (all sizes): Work in patt as established.

Sizes XS, S, M, L, 1X, and 2X only:
Row 8 [RS]: Work in patt as established to end of row.

Size 3X only:
Row 8 [RS]: P20, turn, k20, turn; work in patt as established to end of row.

and AT THE SAME TIME:
Shoulder and neck shaping:
When knitting measures 0.25[1.0, 1.75, 2.5, 3.25, 4, 4.75] inches from the beginning, work the following armscye increases:

Row 1 [WS]: Work in patt as set until 1 st remains on needle; m1, k1. 87 sts. 1 st increased.

Row 2 [RS]: P1, m1, work in patt as set to end of row. 88 sts. 1 st increased.

Row 3 [WS]: Work in patt as set until 1 st remains on needle; m1, k1. 89 sts. 1 st increased.

Row 4 [RS]: P1, m1, work in patt as set to end of row. 90 sts. 1 st increased.

Row 5 [WS]: Work in patt as set until no stitches remain on needle, then CO 35[38, 41, 43, 46, 49, 52] sts. 125[128, 131, 133, 136, 139, 142] sts. 35[38, 41, 43, 46, 49, 52] sts increased.

Increase 1 st at the top of the shoulder every 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows until shoulder measures 3.25[3.5, 3.75, 4.0, 4.0, 4.25, 4.5] inches from the CO edge. 130 [133, 136, 138, 141, 144, 147] sts. 5 sts increased.

BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next RS row.
Dec one stitch at the end of the next WS row.
Dec one stitch at the beginning of the second RS row. 125[128, 131, 133, 136, 139, 141] sts.

Continue in established pattern until neckline measures 8[8, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5] inches from the 3 BO sts, and the knitting measures 12[13, 14, 15, 16, 17.25, 18.25] inches from the first CO edge across the bust, ending with a RS row. The measurement across the hip will be different due to the short rows.

Then work the following:
Row 1 [WS]: Work in patt as set until 1 st remains on needle; m1, k1. 126[129, 132, 134, 137, 140, 142] sts. 1 st increased.
Row 2 [RS]: P1, m1, work in patt as set to end of row. 127[130, 133, 135, 138, 141, 143] sts. 1 st increased.
Row 3 [WS]: Work in patt as set across all sts, then CO 3 sts. 130[133, 136, 138, 141, 144, 146] sts.

Decrease 1 st at the top of the shoulder every 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] rows until shoulder measures 3.25[3.5, 3.75, 4.0, 4.0, 4.25, 4.5] inches from the CO edge. 125[128, 131, 133, 136, 139, 142] sts.

On the next RS row, BO 35[38, 41, 43, 46, 49, 52] sts; then dec 1 st at the armscye edge for the next four rows. 86 sts.

Continue to work rows in patt as set for a further 0.25[1.0, 1.75, 2.5, 3.25, 4, 4.75] inches until knitting measures 16[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] inches across the bust.

BO all sts.

Bust shaping, shoulder and neck shaping and the transverse cable chart are all worked AT THE SAME TIME. Please read all sections carefully before beginning so that you start them at the correct place.

Cable pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: Work in patt for 16 sts then work all sts of Row one of Gardenias chart D, work in patt to end of row.

Continue to work cables from Charts D, E, and F until all rows have been worked, then continue to work in patt as set until piece measures 16[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] inches across the bust.

and AT THE SAME TIME:
Work bust shaping, and shoulder and neck shaping as for FRONT until neckline measures 4[4, 4, 4, 4.25, 4.25, 4.25] inches.

Next row [RS]: BO 16 sts at beg of row, work in patt as set to end of row.
Next row [WS]: Work in patt as set to end of row, CO 16 sts.

Resume working as for FRONT until knitting measures 16[18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] inches across the bust.

BO all sts.

SLEEVES (make two)
CO 16 sts with MC.

Row 1 [RS]: K 5, p 11.
Row 2 [WS]: K 11, p5.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until sleeve measures 0.25[1.0, 1.75, 2.5, 3.25, 4, 4.75] inches from cast on edge.

At the end of the next 17[15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10] RS rows, CO 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts and At THE SAME TIME at the beginning of the next 9[0, 3, 7, 10, 4, 9] WS rows, k1, m1. 42, 46, 47, 49, 50, 53, 55] sts. 26[30, 31, 33, 34, 37, 39] sts increased.

Cont in established patt until SLEEVE measures 7.6[8.25, 8.75, 9.4, 10, 10.5, 11] inches from CO edge.

At the end of the next 9[0, 3, 7, 10, 4, 9] RS rows, k2tog tbl and AT THE SAME TIME at the beginning of the next 17[15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10] WS rows, BO 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts. 16 sts. 26[30, 31, 33, 34, 37, 39] sts decreased.

Continue in established patt until sleeve measures 12.25[13.25, 14.25, 15.25, 16.25, 17.25, 18.25] inches from CO edge.

BO all sts.

SMALL GARDENIA
Bottom piece
Using MC and US#3 double-point needles CO 66 sts. Divide sts evenly between 3 dpns (22 sts per needle).

Rnd 1: K all sts.
Rnd 2: *K3, SSK, k2tog, k3, slip stitch with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 54 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 3: *K8 sts, sl 1 st with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times.
Rnd 4: *K2tog, k4, SSK, sl 1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 42 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, k2, SSK, sl 1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 30 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 6: *K2tog, SSK, sl1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 18 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 7: *Sl 3 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k3 sts, then k3 sts off cable needle, rep from * two more times.
Rnd 8: SK2P six times. 6 sts. 12 sts decreased.

BO all sts.

Top piece with bud
CO 30 sts divided across 3 dpns.
Rnd 1: K all sts.
Rnd 2: *K5, sl 1 st with yarn held in front of slipped stitch, rep from * four more times.
Rnd 3: *K2tog, k1, SSK, sl 1 st with yarn held in front of slipped stitch, rep from * four more times. 20 sts. 10 sts decreased.
Rnd 4: *Sl 1, SK2P, sl 1 stitch with yarn held in front, rep from * four more times. 10 sts. 10 sts decreased.
Rnd 5: K all sts.
Rnd 6: *K1, m1, rep from * nine more times. 20 sts. 10 sts increased.
Rnd 7: K all sts.
Rnd 8: *K3, SSK, rep from * three more times. 16 sts. 4 sts decreased.
Rnd 9: *K2, SSK, rep from * three more times. 12 sts. 4 sts decreased.
Rnd 10: *K1, SSK, rep from * three more times. 8 sts. 4 sts decreased.
Rnd 11: SSK four times. 4 sts. 4 sts decreased.

BO all sts.

BO all sts.

Top piece with bud
CO 66 sts divided evenly on 3 dpns (22 sts per needle).

Rnd 1: K all sts.
Rnd 2: *K3, SSK, k2tog, k3, slip stitch with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 54 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 3: *K8 sts, sl 1 st with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times.
Rnd 4: *K2tog, k4, SSK, sl 1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 42 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 5: *K2tog, k2, SSK, sl 1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 30 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 6: *K2tog, SSK, sl1 with yarn held in back, rep from * five more times. 18 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 7: *Sl 3 sts to cn and hold to back, k3 sts, then k3 sts off cn, rep from * two more times. 18 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 8: *Sl 1, SK2P, rep from * five more times. 6 sts. 12 sts decreased.
Rnd 9: K all sts.
Rnd 10: *K1, m1, rep from * five more times. 12 sts. 6 sts increased.
Rnd 11: *SSK, k2, rep from * two more times for a total of three times. 9 sts. 3 sts decreased.
Rnd 12: *SSK, k1, rep from * two more times for a total of three times. 6 sts. 3 sts decreased.
Rnd 13: SSK three times. 3 sts. 3 sts decreased.

BO all sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block all pieces. Seam together the front and back, leaving a three-inch slit at the hip at each side. Seam and set in sleeves. Attach button to the left side of the keyhole back, and gently tug a stitch loose from the right side to act as a button loop.

If any of the twists between the cables loosened, it is possible to tighten the stitches by hand on the back of the sweater.

To assemble the gardenias:
Block the petals by overlapping the scallops as determined by the cabled row. For the small bud, pull the BO tail all the way through the center of the bobble until the knitting dimples in on itself. For the large bud, gently pull the BO tail through the center of the bobble, leaving the slip knot pointing up. Place the small bud on top of the small bottom, pull the tails through the center of the bottom layer and knot. Do the same for the larger flower. Pin or sew onto the left shoulder of the sweater.

Ashley's first experience with knitting was making her own needles with doweling and oven-hardening modeling clay at the age of 10. When she held the finished knitting needles in her hands, it became obvious fairly quickly that the needles had found a permanent home. Since then, Ashley has learned to crochet, tat, embroider, cross stitch, sew, latch hook, make bobbin lace, and weave on a South American back strap loom; all in pursuit of discovering just what can be done with needles and/or yarn.

You'll find her here.