by Maria Näslund

As every sock knitter knows, hand knitted socks are addictive, both to knit, and to wear. These socks were born from the need for cosy, comfortable socks that are elegant enough to be worn with dress shoes. Because once you've tasted the luxury of hand knitted socks, you never want to wear anything else, right?

Dressy is a very feminine lace sock, with details borrowed from old fashioned nylon stockings. A slightly ruffled edge leads down to the lace pattern. Halfway down the back of the leg, the line of twisted stitches expands into a gusset for the heel. The gusset continues into a small heel flap. Rapid decreases continue the line from the heel gusset. The sole is narrow, and thus virtually invisible when wearing more open shoes, like sandals. Closer to the toe the sole increases, for comfort and a beautiful line. A simple, unobtrusive toe finishes the sock.

The heel construction, a mix of traditional heel flap and gusset style heel, is a bit unusual, but gives an elegant and very comfortable sock. The lace pattern is only four rows and very easy to memorize.

SIZE
S[M, L]
To fit foot circumference: 7[8, 9] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Leg circumference: 6.5[7.25, 8] inches
Leg length: 9.25[9.5, 9.75] inches
Foot length: 7.75[8.5, 9.25] inches see Pattern Notes for tips on adjusting

MATERIALS
Yarn
Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock [80% Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Nylon; 430 yds/ 100 g]; show in color 59NS Dobson; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #0/2mm double-point needles for working in the round

Notions
Yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Purled Long-tail Cast-On
Description and photo tutorial: <Note to ed: insert link to http://www.purlwise.com/2003/10/purl_long_tail_.html>

Video demonstration: <Note to ed: insert link to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRb0ZHmixNg>

Grafting:
Instructions for grafting can be found here:
<note to ed: link to http://knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html>

Lace pattern (worked in the round over a multiple of 8 stitches)
Rounds 1: [P1, yo, k1, p3tog, k1, yo, p1, k1tbl]
Round 2–4: [P1, k5, p1, k1tbl]
<note to ed: insert Lace pattern chart here>

Instep Decrease Charts
<note to ed: insert Instep Decrease Charts Small, Medium and Large here>

Instep Pattern Charts
<note to ed: insert Instep Pattern Charts Small, Medium and Large here>

Foot Decrease Charts
<note to ed: insert Foot Decrease Charts Small, Medium and Large here>

Notes on Resizing
To resize the sock foot: For longer or shorter socks, work the part between the Gusset decreases and the Sole increases longer or shorter.

DIRECTIONS
Ruffle
CO 98[112, 126] stitches using the purled long tail method. Distribute the stitches as you prefer, and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Rounds 1-2: [P1, k11, p1, k1tbl] around.

Round 3: [P1, k4, p3tog, k4, p1, k1tbl] around. 84[96, 108] stitches

Round 4: [P1, k9, p1, k1tbl] around.

Round 5: [P1, k3, p3tog, k3, p1, k1tbl] around. 70[80, 90] stitches

Round 6: [P1, k7, p1, k1tbl] around.

Round 7: [P1, k2, p3tog, k2, p1, k1tbl] around. 56[64, 72] stitches

Round 8: [P1, k5, p1, k1tbl] around.

Leg
Leg round: Work Lace pattern around.
Work as set until leg measures 4 inches/ 10 cm, ending with Row 1 of the Lace pattern.

Heel gusset:
Round 1: Work Lace pattern to last 2 stitches, pm, p1, M1R, k1, M1L. 58[66, 74] stitches
Rounds 2-12: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, k3.
Round 13: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, RLI, k to end of round, LLI. 60[68, 76] stitches
Rounds 14-21: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, k5.
Round 22: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, RLI, k to end of round, LLI. 62[70, 78] stitches
Rounds 23-25: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, k7.
Round 26: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, RLI, k to end of round, LLI. 2 stitches increased.
Rounds 27-28: Work Lace pattern to marker, p1, k to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 26-28 4[5, 6] more times, then Rounds 26-27 once more. 74[84, 94] stitches

Heel
Turn so that WS is facing. The heel is worked over the 19[21, 23] gusset stitches. Remove marker.

Row 1[WS]: Sl1, p 18[20, 22], turn.
Row 2[RS]: Sl1, k18[20, 22], turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2 8[9, 10] more times.

Heel Turn:
Heel row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p11[12, 13], p2tog tbl, p1.
Heel row 2 [RS]: Turn, sl 1, k6, k2tog, k1.
Heel row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p7, p2tog tbl, p1.
Heel row 4 [RS]: Turn, sl 1, k8, k2tog, k1.
Heel row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p9, p2tog tbl, p1.
Heel row 6 [RS]: Turn, sl 1, k10, k2tog, k1.
Size S only: Proceed to Gusset.

Size M only:
Heel row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p11, p2tog tbl.
Heel row 8 [RS]: Turn, sl 1, k11, k2tog.
Proceed to Gusset.

Size L only:
Heel row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p11, p2tog tbl, p1.
Heel row 8 [RS]: Turn, sl 1, k12, k2tog, k1.
The heel now has 13[13, 15] stitches.

Gusset
Setup round, size Small only: With RS facing, pickup and knit 10 stitches along the side of the heel flap, work Lace Pattern (stitches 1–8) 6 times, and stitches 1–7 once) over 55 instep stitches, pickup and knit 10[-, -] stitches along the other side of the heel flap, ssk, k5. This is now the beginning of the round. 87[-, -] stitches

Next rnd K4, k2tog , k to 2 stitches before instep, k2tog, work in Lace pattern as set over instep stitches, ssk, k to end. 84 stitches

Setup round, sizes Medium and Large only: With RS facing, pickup and knit -[11, 12] stitches along the side of the heel flap, work Lace Pattern (stitches 1–8) -[7, 8] times, and stitches 1–7 once) over --[63, 71] instep stitches, pickup and knit 10[11, 12] stitches along the other side of the heel flap, k-[7, 8]. This is now the beginning of the round. -[98, 110] stitches

Next rnd: K to 2 stitches before instep, k2tog, work in Lace pattern as set over instep stitches, ssk, k to end. -[96, 108] stitches

All sizes continue here:
Decrease round: K to 2 stitches before instep, k2tog, work in Lace pattern as set over instep stitches, ssk, k to end. 2 stitches decreased

Rep Decrease round 6[7, 8] more times. 15[17, 19] sole stitches remain; 70[80, 90] stitches total.

Next round: K to 1 stitch before instep, k1tbl, work in pattern over instep stitches, k1tbl, k to end.

Instep decreases:
The decreases will now be worked at the beginning and end of the instep, while the lace pattern continues on the remaining instep stitches.

Next round: K to 1 stitch before instep, k1tbl, work Instep Decrease Chart for appropriate size across instep sts, k1tbl, k to end. 68[78, 88] stitches.
Continue as set until all Instep Decrease Chart rows are complete. 56[64, 72] stitches rem, 41[47, 53] on instep.

Foot
Foot round: K to 1 stitch before instep, k1tbl, work Instep Pattern for appropriate size starting at Row 2[4, 2], k1tbl, k to end.
Work even in pattern for 22 more rounds (1.75 inches), or until 2.75[3.5, 4] inches short of full foot length.
Note: if you are adjusting length, ensure you end with Round 4[2, 4] of the Instep pattern.

Sole increases:
Increases will now be worked on the sole, with corresponding decreases on the instep, while the lace pattern continues on the remaining instep stitches.

Next Round: K2, RLI, k to 1 st before instep, k1tbl, work Foot Decrease Chart for appropriate size, k1tbl, k to last 3 sts of round, LLI, k3.
Continue as set until all Foot Decrease Chart rows are complete.

Toe
Rounds 1-4: Knit.

Decrease round: K to 3 stitches before instep, ssk, k1, k2tog, k to 2 stitches before end of instep, ssk, k1, k2tog, k to end. 4 stitches decreased
Knit 3 rounds.
Repeat the last 4 rounds once more.

Work Decrease round.
Knit 2 rounds.
Repeat the last 3 rounds once more.

Work Decrease round.
Knit 1 round.
Repeat the last 2 rounds 1[2, 3] more times.

Work Decrease round 3[4, 5] times. 20[20, 20] stitches.

FINISHING
K 3[3, 3]. Slip 10[10, 10] stitches onto one needle (front stitches) and 10[10, 10] stitches on another needle (back stitches). Graft toe closed and weave in the ends.

Maria is a devoted sockaholic who is starting to become addicted to lace. One can never have too many socks, and lace works with everything, so what is better than lace socks? Having a somewhat anachronistic taste, she constantly tries to translate vintage style into knitted items. Further proof can be found on her website and her blog. On Ravelry she is marianaslund.