by Ruth Churchman

A Victorian baby's bootee inspired this sock design. I work in a Museum Library and discovered a knitting gem on our shelves: Collection of Knitting and Crochet Receipts, by M Elliot Scrivenor. Published by John Paton & Son in 1896 it was the first Victorian knitting pattern book I had ever seen with photos. An array of ladies knickerbockers, fisherman's gauntlets and such-like filled the pages, but my eye was taken by the intricate designs of the children's clothing: frilly bonnets and petticoats, only seen in Museums or period dramas. I loved the unusual stitch pattern on a baby's bootee, and thought I would have a go at knitting a Victorian pattern, and to work out the dynamics of the stitch pattern.

I figured that the closest yarn was lace weight, and knitted up the cutest, delicate lace baby's bootee. I immediately thought this would make a lovely ladies sock; especially as the unusual stitch pattern was remarkably simple to knit! I was fascinated that the patterns suggested what color yarn to use, the baby's bootees were coral, and other babies items were as expected color-wise, but many adults' undergarments were in striking combinations of red, grey and black. I loved the idea of the Victorians wearing bright, bold colored underwear, so chose to knit the original bootee and the final socks in red.

I converted the pattern to use a 4-ply/fingering weight yarn, as it would be more durable and easier to knit. The original lace edging was crocheted, and I struggled to make it work well for the bootee, as it resulted in a tight, inflexible cuff. To improve matters, I found another Victorian knitted stitch pattern and used it to make a softer, stretchier cuff, which still retains the feel of the bootee cuff. Baby's bootees are just designed to keep the baby's feet warm. To be more practical for a ladies sock, but yet retain the original design features: I moved the ribbon to the cuff, and worked the sole in smoother stockinette stitch, but kept the decorative Seed Stitch in the side gussets; I used the Eye of Partridge Stitch pattern for the heel flap, as it has a similar feel to Seed Stitch, but would be smoother and more comfortable on the heel.

SIZE
Adult S[M, L]
shown in size S

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot Circumference: 6.25[7, 7.75] inches, unstretched
Leg Length: 9.5 inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Note: Choose a size 1-1.5 inches smaller than your actual foot circumference.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Cascade Yarns Heritage Sock Yarn [75% Merino Superwash 25% Nylon; 437yd/400m per 100g skein]; color: Red 5607; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1.5/2.5mm needles: DPNs, 1 long circular or two short circulars

Notions
yarn needle
waste yarn
stitch marker
1.75 yd three-eighths inch-wide ribbon
1.75 yd .25 inch-wide elastic [optional]

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The socks are knitted top down, cast on provisionally, and the lace cuff edging is knitted up from the provisional cast on, after each sock has been completed.

Instructions for Judy's Magic Cast On can be found here.

Cluster: Drop the extra wraps on the next 5 elongated sts, and slip back onto left needle; through all 5 elongated sts tog work (k1 elongated, p1 elongated, k1 elongated, p1 elongated, k1 elongated). Keep stitches loose to make the knitting easier.

K1 elongated: knit st wrapping yarn around the needle twice

P1 elongated: purl st wrapping yarn around the needle twice

Drop wrap p: drop 1 wrap from previous round to form an elongated st, and purl the st

Drop wrap bind off purlwise: as drop wrap p, purl 2 sts, slip 1st over the 2nd and off the needle, continue until all sts are bound off

Sl st left: Slip last st of round (last stitch worked) back to left needle, purlwise

Sl st right: With yarn in back, slip first st of round to right needle, purlwise.

Victorian Stitch Pattern
Work over a multiple of 3 stitches.

Round 1: [P1, yo, p2tog] around.
Rounds 2-5: [P1, k1, p1] around.
Round 6: [P1 k1, p1,] to last st, sl st left.
Note: On Round 7, the slipped st from the previous round is purled tog with the first st of Round 7
Round 7: P2tog, [p1, yo, p2tog] to last st, p1, yo.
Round 8: Sl st right, [p1, k1, p1] to end.
Rounds 9-12: [P1, k1, p1] around.

Victorian Stitch Instep Pattern
Worked over a multiple of 3 stitches plus 2.

Round 1: P1, [p1, yo, p2tog], to last st, p1.
Rounds 2-6: P1, [p1, k1, p1] to last st, p1.
Round 7: P2tog, [p1, yo, p2tog] to last 3 sts, p1, yo, p2.
Rounds 8-12: P1, [p1, k1, p1], to last st, p1.

Lace Cuff Edging
Worked over a multiple of 6 stitches.

Round 1: Purl.
Round 2: K1, k5 elongated.
Round 3: K1, cluster st.
Round 4: P1, drop wrap p5
Round 5: Knit.
Round 6: Sl first 3 sts of round to right needle purlwise, [k1, k5 elongated]
Round 7: K1, cluster st.
Round 8: Drop wrap bind off purlwise.

Seed Stitch
Work over an even number of stitches.

Round 1: [P1, k1] across
Round 2: [K1, p1] across

Kitchener Stitch
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

DIRECTIONS
Cuff
Using Judy's Magic Cast On, cast on 156[168, 180] sts -- 78[84, 90] sts on each of two needles. Position needles as if to join in the round, with RS facing, and slip the 78[84, 90] sts on the lower needle on waste yarn, to pick up for the edging later.

Distribute rem 78[84, 90] stitches across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Size Small only:
Round 1: *[K2 tbl, k2tog tbl] twice, k3 tbl, k2tog tbl, rep from * to end of round. 60 sts.

Size Medium only:
Round 1: *[K3 tbl, k2tog tbl] twice, k2 tbl, k2tog tbl, rep from * to end of round. 66 sts

Size Large only:
Round 1: [K3 tbl, k2tog tbl] to end of round. 72 sts.

All Sizes:
Round 2: P.

Round 3: K.

Round 4: [P2tog, yo] to end of round.

Round 5: K.

Round 6: [Yo, ssk] to end of round.

Round 7: K.

Rounds 8-9: P.

Round 10: K.

Round 11: [P2tog, yo] to end of round.

Round 12: K.

Rounds 13-14: P.

Leg
Leg round: Work Victorian Stitch pattern 20[22, 24] times around.

Work as set until you have completed four full repeats, or until leg is desired length ending on round 6 or 12.

Heel Flap:
Setup: P1. This position is the start of the heel flap. Slip this stitch to the end of the final needle of the round.

Heel flap is worked back and forth in rows on next 28[32, 34] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: [Sl 1, k1] to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to end of row.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 2, [k1, sl 1] to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 4 [WS]: Rep Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1-4 8[8, 9] more times.

Size Medium only: Repeat Rows 1-2 once more.

All Sizes:
36[38, 40] rows total. RS will be facing.

Heel Turn:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k17[20, 21], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p9[11, 11], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k10[12, 12], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, p11[13, 13], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1, k12[14, 14], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl 1, p13[15, 15], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1, k14[16, 16], ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS]: Sl 1, p15[17, 17], p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1, k16[18, 18], ssk, k0[1, 1] turn.
Row 10 [WS]: Sl 1, p16[19, 19], p2tog, p0[1, 1] turn.

Size Medium and Large only:
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1, k[19, 20], ssk, turn.
Row 12 [WS]: Sl 1, p[18, 20], p2tog, turn.

18[20, 22] sts remaining on heel flap.

Break off yarn.

Gusset
Attach yarn at the bottom right side of the heel flap. Pick up and knit 20[21, 22] sts along the side of the heel flap for right gusset. Knit 3[3, 4] heel stitches, place first heel marker. Knit 12[14, 14] heel stitches, place second heel marker. Knit remaining 3[3, 4] heel stitches. Pick up and knit 20[21, 22] sts along the left side of the heel flap. Work across 32[34, 38] instep sts following Victorian Stitch Instep chart or written directions, m1p 0[1, 0] times. 90[97, 104] sts total. 58[62, 66] sts on sole, 32[35, 38] sts on instep.

Start of round is at this point, the end of instep. Rearrange stitches as you prefer.

Gusset decreases:
The side gussets are worked in Seed Stitch: once the stitch pattern is set up, knit the purl st from the row below and purl the knit sts. The heel and sole are worked in Stockinette Stitch.

Round 1: P1, ssk, work in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, p0[1, 1], work in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern across instep. 2 sts decreased. 88[95, 102] sts total. 32[35, 38] sts on instep, 56[60, 64] sts on sole.

Round 2: Work in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, k0[1, 1], work in Seed St to start of instep. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Round 3: P1, ssk, k1, cont in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, cont in Seed St to 4 sts before instep, k1, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern as set across instep. 2 sts decreased.

Round 4: K1, p2, cont in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before marker, p2, k1. Work in pattern as set across instep.

Round 5: P1, ssk, cont in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern as set across instep. 2 sts decreased.

Round 6: Work in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, work in Seed St to start of instep. Work in pattern as set across instep.

Repeat Rounds 3-6 3[2, 3] more times.

Size Small and Medium only: Repeat Rounds 3-4 once more.

All Sizes:
13[16, 17] sts right side gusset, 12[14, 14] sts heel, 13[16, 17] sts left side gusset. 38[46, 48] sts on sole, 32[35, 38] sts on instep.

The side gussets continue to be decreased, while extending the stocking stitch sole area between the first and second markers:

Size Large only:
Round 1: P1, ssk, k1, cont in Seed St to 1 st before first marker, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Round 2: K1, p2, cont in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, p2, k1. Work in pattern to end of instep.

All Sizes:
Round 1: P1, ssk, cont in Seed St to 1 st before first marker, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Round 2: Work in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, work in Seed St to start of instep. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Round 3: P1, ssk, k1, cont in Seed St to 1 st before first marker, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Round 4: K1, p2, cont in Seed St to first marker, k to second marker, cont in Seed St to 3 sts before instep, p2, k1. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Repeat the above 4 rounds 1[2, 1] more times.

Size Large only: Work Rounds 1-2 again.

All Sizes:
5[4, 5] sts right side gusset to marker in Seed St, 20[26, 26] sts in St St, 5[4, 5] sts left side gusset from marker to instep in Seed St. 30[34, 36] sts on sole, 32[35, 38] sts on instep.

Size Small only:
Decrease round: P1, ssk, p1, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, p1, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Following round: K1, p1, k1 to first marker, k to second marker, k1, p1, k1. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Size Medium only:
Decrease round: P1, ssk, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, k2tog, p1 . Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Following round: K1, p1, to first marker, k to second marker, p1, k1. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Sizes Large only:
Decrease round: P1, ssk, k1, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, k1, k2tog, p1. Work in pattern to end of instep. 2 sts decreased.

Following round: K1, p2 to first marker, k to second marker, p2, k1. Work in pattern to end of instep.

All Sizes:
60[67, 72] sts rem total -- 3[2, 3] sts right side gusset, 22[28, 28] sts heel, 3[2, 3] sts left side gusset. 28[32, 34] on sole, 32[35, 38] on instep.

Foot
Continue extending the Stockinette Stitch sole area:

Size Small and Large only:
Round 1: P1, k1, sl st right, remove marker, sl st left, place marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, k1, p1 to instep. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Round 2: K1, p1 to first marker, k to second marker, p1, k1 to instep. Work in pattern to end of instep.

All sizes:
Round 1: P1, k1 to first marker, remove marker, k to second marker, remove marker, k1, p1, to instep. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Round 2: Knit across sole. Work in pattern to end of instep.

Work even in pattern as set until sock measures approximately 1.75[2, 2.5]ins less than foot length required, ending on either Round 7[6, 7] or 12[11, 12] of Victorian Stitch Instep pattern.

Size Medium only, final round: K across sole. Work in pattern as set to last 2 sts of instep, p2tog. 66 sts.

Toe
Slip last st from right to left hand needle. This is the new start of round.

Round 1: K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before start of instep, k2tog, k1 -- this is the new start of instep/end of sole -- k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. 56[62, 68] sts. 28[31, 24] sts each on instep and sole. Rearrange sts as required.

Knit 3 rounds.

Round 5, decrease: K1, ssk, k to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased.

Rounds 6 & 7: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 5-7 1[1, 2] more times. 48[54, 56] sts.

Work Rounds 5-6 4[5, 5] times. 32[34, 36] sts remain.

Work Round 5 three times. 20[22, 24] sts.

Use Kitchener Stitch to graft toe closed.

Lace Cuff Edging
Return stitches of provisional CO to needles. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer, rejoin yarn and join for working in the round. 78[84, 90] sts,

Cuff round: Work Lace Cuff Edging 13[14, 15] times around.

Work as set until Edging pattern is complete.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block lightly.

Cut ribbon in half, cutting ends at an angle to prevent fraying, and thread though the eyelet holes on Round 11 of cuff, put socks on feet and tie in a bow at the back.

Optional: Measure off enough elastic to fit stretched around your calf plus 1 inch. Thread behind the ribbon, and sew the two overlapping half-inch ends together.

Ruth lives in a small cottage in the rural Scottish Borders, and works in a museum library in Edinburgh. She is keen on visual and decorative arts and textiles.

She writes about knitting and the Arts on her blog, where she also has adventures with the Felty Folk.