by Paola Albergamo

Gocce (‘drops’ in Italian) is worked in modules similar to drops in shape – hence the name.

The result looks much more intricate and complex than it is in reality and knitting it is quite simple, once you get the hang of it.

Modules are worked one by one, so there are never too many stitches on needle.
Every module serves as a base for the following one so that no seaming is needed.
And the stitches are either newly casted on either picked up from the provisional cast on live stitches, so even this point is very easy to work.

The shawl looks complicated and elaborate, but the work combines only simple stockinette and garter stitches arranged with an unusual combination of short rows and a provisional cast on. After all the modules have been worked a simple attached garter stitch border is worked all around the shawl to avoid rolling and give more length and a more polished look.

SIZE
One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length: 75 inches
Width: 22 inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
[MC] Ice Yarns Silk [50% Silk, 40% Merino Superfine, 10% Kid Mohair; 207 yd/190 m per 25g skein]; color: Turquoise; 6 skeins (held double throughout)
[CC] Schachenmayr Baby Wool Color [100% wool; 93 yd/85 m per 25g skein]; color: ocean print ID# 00188; 5 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
32 inch US #2.5/3mm circular needle

Notions
3 markers: 1 of one color or style, for marker A, 2 of another color or style, for marker B
lengths of scrap yarn or 10 spare circular needles for stitch holders
scrap yarn and a crochet hook for provisional CO
yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Provisional (waste yarn) Cast On
This pattern uses a provisional cast on. The method I used is this:

Take a length of yarn longer than the length of the finished CO, to comfortably hold all necessary stitches.
1) Make a slip knot with the working yarn and place it on the needle (first stitch).
2) Hold the needle, the working yarn and the string tails in your right hand, keeping the string in front of the yarn.
Put the left hand around the long strands of both working yarn and string, with yarn over the thumb and string over your index finger
3) Bring your needle under the working yarn, thus picking up a loop of yarn. Repeat until you have the required number of stitches.

You can also use this method.

Kitchener stitch (Grafting)
Instructions for grafting can be found here.

Ends
Though not mandatory it’s strongly recommended that you weave in your ends while you work.
Here's a tutorial, for both continental and English knitters.

DIRECTIONS
LOWER HALF OF SHAWL
CO 100 sts using provisional CO.
Join CC.

Module: Row 1 [WS]: K to end. Row 2 [RS]: K to end. Row 3 [WS]: K to endRow 4 [RS]: Sl 1, cut the yarn and change to MC. K35, place mB, k14, place mA, k14, place mB, k to 1 st before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 5 [WS]: P to 5 st sts before end, w&t. Row 6 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to 2 before mA, ssk, sm, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k6, w&t. 97 sts. Row 7 [WS]: P40, w&t. Row 8 [RS]: K to 5 sts before end, w&t. Row 9 [WS]: P to 7 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn.
First Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 10 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 7 sts before end, w&t. Row 11 [WS]: K to 7 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), break yarn. Row 12 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 8 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 13 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 10 sts before end, w&t. Row 14 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to mA, sm, k2tog, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k to 10 sts before end, w&t. 94 sts. Row 15 [WS]: P to 12 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn
Second Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 16 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 12 sts before end, w&t. Row 17 [WS]: K to 12 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), break yarn. Row 18 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 13 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 19 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 15 sts before end, w&t. Row 20 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to 2 before mA, ssk, sm, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k to 15 sts before end, w&t. 91 sts Row 21 [WS]: P to 17 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn.
Third Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 22 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 17 sts before end, w&t. Row 23 [WS]: K to 17 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), break yarn. Row 24 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 18 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 25 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 20 sts before end, w&t. Row 26 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to mA, sm, k2tog, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k to 20 sts before end, w&t. 88 sts. Row 27 [WS]: P to 22 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn.
Fourth Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 28 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 22 sts before end, w&t. Row 29 [WS]: K to 22 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), break yarn. Row 30 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 23 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 31 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 25 sts before end, w&t. Row 32 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to 2 before mA, ssk, sm, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k to 25 sts before end, w&t. 85 sts. Row 33 [WS]: P to 27 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn.
Fifth Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 34 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 27 sts before end, w&t. Row 35 [WS]: K to 27 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), break yarn. Row 36 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 28 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 37 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 30 sts before end, w&t. Row 38 [RS]: K to mB, sm, ssk, k to mA, sm, k2tog, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k to 30 sts before end, w&t. 82 sts. Row 39 [RS]: P to 32 sts before end, w&t. Don't break yarn.
Sixth Garter Ridge (lower side) Row 40 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 32 sts before end, w&t. Row 41 [WS]: K to 32 sts before end and turn the work (do NOT wrap), don't break yarn. Row 42 [RS]: Sl 1, change to MC, k to 33 sts before end, turn (do NOT wrap). Row 43 [WS]: Sl 1, p to 35 sts before end, w&t. Row 44 [RS]: K 1, sm, ssk, k to 2 before mA, ssk, sm, k to 2 before mB, k2tog, sm, k1, w&t. 79 sts. Row 45 [WS]: P to 37 sts before end, w&t. Row 46 [RS]: K to 37 sts before end, w&t. Row 47 [WS]: P to 36 sts before end, w&t. Row 48 [RS]: RLI, k to 1 before mA, RLI, k1, sm, k to mB, LLI, sm, k2, w&t. 82 sts. Row 49 [WS]: P to 33 sts before end, slip the first stitch on right needle to left needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
Sixth Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 50 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 32 sts before end, w&t. Row 51 [WS]: K to 32 sts before end, break yarn, sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 52 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 31 sts before end, w&t. Row 53 [WS]: P to 31 sts before end, w&t. Row 54 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to mA, sm, k1, LLI, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 29 sts before end, w&t. 85 sts. Row 55 [WS]: P to 28 sts before end,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
Fifth Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 56 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 27 sts before end, w&t. Row 57 [WS]: K to 27 sts before end, break yarn,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 58 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 26 sts before end, w&t. Row 59 [WS]: P to 26 sts before end, w&t. Row 60 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to 1 before mA, RLI, k1, sm, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 24 sts before end, w&t. 88 sts. Row 61 [WS]: P to 23 sts before end,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
Fourth Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 62 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 22 sts before end, w&t. Row 63 [WS]: K to 22 sts before end, break yarn,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 64 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 21 sts before end, w&t. Row 65 [WS]: P to 21 sts before end, w&t. Row 66 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to mA, sm, k1, LLI, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 19 sts before end, w&t. 91 sts. Row 67 [WS]: P to 18 sts before end,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
Third Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 68 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 17 sts before end, w&t. Row 69 [WS]: K to 17 sts before end, break yarn,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 70 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 16 sts before end, w&t. Row 71 [WS]: P to 16 sts before end, w&t. Row 72 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to 1 before mA, RLI, k1, sm, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 14 sts before end, w&t. 94 sts. Row 73 [WS]: P to 13 sts before end,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
Second Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 74 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 12 sts before end, w&t. Row 75 [WS]: K to 12 sts before end, break yarn,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 76 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 11 sts before end, w&t. Row 77 [WS]: P to 11 sts before end, w&t. Row 78 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to mA, sm, k1, LLI, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 9 sts before end, w&t. 97 sts. Row 79 [WS]: P to 8 sts before end,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Don't break yarn.
First Garter Ridge (upper side) Row 80 [RS]: Change to CC, k to 7 sts before end, w&t. Row 81 [WS]: K to 7 sts before end, break yarn,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, and turn the work (do NOT wrap). Row 82 [RS]: Change to MC, k to 6 sts before end, w&t. Row 83 [RS]: P to 30 sts before end, w&t. Row 84 [RS]: K to mB, sm, RLI, k to 1 before mA, RLI, k1, sm, k to mB, LLI, sm, k to 30 sts before end, w&t. 100 sts. Row 85 [WS]: P to 4 sts before end, w&t. Row 86 [RS]: K to 2 sts before end, w&t. Row 87 [WS]: P to 1 st before,sl the first stitch on left needle to right needle, turn the work (do NOT wrap). Break yarn.
Module is complete. Setup for next module: Change to CC, k to end. Slip the first 50 sts to scrap yarn or a spare needle for a holder; 50 sts rem. Then CO 50 sts at the end of the existing row, using a provisional CO. 100 sts.

Work as set until you have 6 modules.

UPPER HALF OF SHAWL
The 6th module is the “tip” of the shawl, and after it is complete, the shawl is worked in the other direction, using the stitches that had been left on holders to add a second row of modules.

Setup for next module
Slip the last 50 sts to scrap yarn or a spare needle for a holder. 50 sts rem. Return the held stitches from the adjacent lower-half module to the needle, in front of the 50 sts that remain from the previously worked module.

Work the Module again.

Continue as set until you have worked across all the modules of the lower half.
NOTE: Do not break the yarn after the last module of the upper half.

11 modules in total. There are live stitches across the tops of the five upper half modules – numbers 7-11 on the diagram – and the top of the module at the “point” – number 6 on the diagram. And there are the held stitches of the provisional CO at the lower edges of the bottom half modules, and the point module.

Borders
When the last module of the upper half has been worked, start working an attached garter border on the same module.

UPPER BORDER
Without breaking the yarn, CO 6 sts. Continue working with CC.

Work BR 1-2 four times, [ISR 1-2 once, BR 1-2 ten times] four times, then work ISR 1-2 once again and BR 1-2 five times, until you reach the last stitch of the module. Return the next module’s stitches from the holder to the left needle, then work DSR 1-4.

Work as set until 3 sts rem in the last bottom half of module 1.

Work AR 1-12 3 times. BO rem 6 sts.

LOWER BORDER
Return the sts of the second half of module 6 to the needle and continue as before, working across the lower edge:
*Work BR 1-2 four times, [ISR 1-2 once, BR 1-2 ten times] four times, then work ISR 1-2 once again and BR 1-2 five times, until you reach the last stitch of the module. Return the next module’s stitches from the holder to the left needle, then work DSR 1-4.

Work as set until all stitches of the lower edge have been worked. 6 border sts rem.

FINISHING
Seam the edges of the border together. Block.

Paola is a computer programmer who lives in Rome. She knits to stay sane, but the only result she achieves is that her work looks crazy.

She doesn’t have a website or blog, but you can find her on Ravelry.