INTRODUCTION

Arashi

by Ema Marinescu (Itoishi)

Arashi, which is Japanese for "storm", came to be during a very tempestuous week - high winds, dark, cloudy days and seemingly endless rain, and got its name because whenever I looked at this gorgeous colorway, the image of the strong, stormy sea came to mind.

The shawl has a rather unusual trapezoid shape and is knit outwards in two directions from the center. Elongated stitches frame the simple yet elegant lace pattern that makes it a piece you can easily dress up or down. The smocked stitches at the center of the shawl make the texture really stand out.

model + photos: Ema Marinescu

SIZE

One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Width at widest point: 76 inches/193 cm
Depth at widest point:19.5 inches/49.5 cm

MATERIALS

Quince & Co Sparrow [100% organic linen; 168yd/155m per 50g skein]; color: Juniper; 5 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #2.5/3 mm circular needle - 24 inch/60cm or longer

Notions
Crochet hook and waste yarn (for provisional cast on)
Tapestry needle (for smocking and weaving in ends)

GAUGE

20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

Gauge is not critical for this project, as long as you like how the fabric looks, although working a different gauge will affect finished size and yarn usage.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The shawl is worked in two directions beginning in the middle.

Techniques

• cdd (center double decrease) - slip the next 2 stitches as if to k2tog; knit the next st and pass the two slipped sts over the stitch just worked.
• k3togLS: insert the needle into the next 3 sts for a standard k3tog, and wrap the yarn twice around the right needle before pulling it through the complete the stitch
• ssskLS: slip the next 3 sts knitwise onto right needle, insert left needle through the front of the 3 sts and knit them together, wrapping the yarn around the right needle twice
• LS (long stitch): insert needle into the stitch as usual for knitting, wrap the yarn around the right hand needle twice, then pull it through to complete the stitch.
• This project uses a provisional cast on, such as this one.

CHARTS

MAIN PATTERN
Row 1 [RS]: LS, k8, k2tog, k2, YO, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k8.
Row 2 and all following even-numbered rows[WS]: p12, k1, p12, sl1.
Row 3 [RS]: LS, k7, k2tog, k2, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, k2, ssk, k7
Row 5 [RS]: LS, k6, k2tog, k2, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, k2, ssk, k6.
Row 7 [RS]: LS, k5, k2tog, k2, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO, k2, ssk, k5.
Row 9 [RS]: LS, k4, k2tog, k2, YO, k2tog, k2, YO, p1, YO, k2, ssk, YO, k2, ssk, k4.
Row 11 [RS]: LS, k3, k2tog, k2, YO, k2tog, k2, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, k2, ssk, YO, k2, ssk, k3.
Row 13 [RS]: LS, k2, k2tog, k2, YO, k2tog, k2, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, k2, ssk, YO, k2, ssk, k2.
Row 15 [RS]: LS, k12, p1, k12.
Row 17 [RS]: Repeat Row 1.
Row 19 [RS]: Repeat Row 3.
Row 21 [RS]: Repeat Row 5.
Row 23 [RS]: Repeat Row 15.

DIRECTIONS

Using scrap yarn, provisionally cast on 112 sts.

Join working yarn.

Section A
Row 1 [RS]: K3, [Row 1 of Main Pattern] 4 times, LS, k2, k2tog. 111 sts.
Row 2 [WS]: K3, sl1, [Row 2 of Main Pattern] 4 times, k3.
Row 3 [RS]: K3, [Row 3 of Main Pattern] 4 times, LS, k3.

Pattern is now set, with the garter and elongated edging worked as per Rows 2 and 3, and the Main pattern worked 4 times in the center. Continue until you have completed the 24 rows of the Main Pattern 5 times total.

Decrease Section A

NOTE: Read before you begin:
The basic lace repeat is 26 sts wide, and you've been working 4 repeats across. To help with this section, you may wish to put markers in, to divide up the four repeats.

You will start to decrease, work a k3togLS at the end of each RS row. As soon as your decreases "eat into" the 26 stitches of a repeat, then change how you work that repeat. If you've got between 14 and 25 stitches in a repeat, work stitches 1-14 as set in the chart - the LS to the purl column, the right-hand side of the 'feather' - and work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. If you've got fewer than 14 stitches, then work all the stitches of that repeat in stockinette stitch.

For row 1, therefore, you will work the first 3 repeats of the lace pattern as per the chart, but for the fourth, work only sts 1-14 as per the chart, and work the remaining sts (to the last 6, as per the instructions) in stockinette stitch.

Row 1 [RS]: K3, work Lace Pattern as set to last 6 sts, k3togLS, k3. 2sts decreased.

Row 2 [WS]: Work even in pattern as set.

Continue, as set, decreasing every RS row, and working repeat areas as noted above, until 9 sts rem.

Final Rows

Row 1 [RS]: K3, k3togLS, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: K3, sl 1, k3.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, cdd, k2.
Row 4 [WS]: K5.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, cdd, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: K3.
Row 7 [RS]: Cdd.

Cut yarn and pull through loop.

Section B
Carefully undo the provisional cast on and return the sts to the needles. You should have 111 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K3, [Row 1 of Main Pattern] 4 times, LS, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: K3, [Row 2 of Main Pattern] 4 times, sl1, k3.

Continue until you have completed the 24 rows of the Main Pattern 5 times total.

Decrease Section B

Note: Read before you begin:
On this side, the ssskLS decrease is worked at the start of the RS row. The same basic rule applies. As soon as you've got less than 26 sts in a repeat section, change how you work the pattern.

You will start to decrease, work a ssskLS at the end of each RS row. As soon as your decreases "eat into" the 26 stitches of a repeat, then change how you work that repeat. If you've got between 14 and 25 stitches in a repeat, work stitches 14-26 as set in the chart - the purl stitch to the end of the repeat, the left-hand side of the 'feather' - and work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. If you've got fewer than 14 stitches, then work all the stitches of that repeat in stockinette stitch.

For row 1, therefore, you will work the first 3 repeats of the lace pattern as per the chart, but for the fourth, work only sts 1-14 as per the chart, and work the remaining sts (to the last 6, as per the instructions) in stockinette stitch.

Row 1 [RS]: K3, k3tog LS, work Lace Pattern as set to last 4 sts, LS, k3. 2sts decreased.
Row 2 [WS]: Work even in pattern as set.

Continue, as set, decreasing every RS row, and working repeat areas as noted above, until 9 sts rem.

Final Rows

Row 1 [RS]: K3, ssskLS, k3.
Row 2 [WS]: K3, sl 1, k3.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, cdd, k2.
Row 4 [WS]: K5.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, cdd, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: K3.
Row 7 [RS]: Cdd.

Cut yarn and pull through final loop.

FINISHING

Either soak the shawl or, if using linen yarn, wash and spin it in the washing machine. Pin and let dry.

Smocking
See Smocking Photo Tutorial below.

Cut an 8-inch/20cm strand of yarn and thread the tapestry needle with it.

Go back to the center of the shawl where you originally did the provisional cast on. Work the following smocking stitch around the 9 stitches at the center the lace stitch pattern repeat:

*At stitch number 1, pass the needle through the fabric from the back to the front of the work. Pull the strand of yarn over the 9 center sts. At stitch number 9, pass the needle though the fabric from the front to the back of the work. * twice. Both yarn ends are on the WS. On the RS, you have two strands of yarn loosely passing over the 9 sts.

From the back of the work, pull the two yarn ends tight to gather the fabric. Tie the two strands together and weave them in using duplicate stitch on the WS.

Repeat smocking for the remaining 3 lace pattern repeats along the starting row.

Weave in all other loose ends using duplicate stitch.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Between working on my BA in Japanese and teaching to make a living (and fuel my yarn addiction), I enjoy long walks in the pine forests near my house, gardening, baking bread and making sure that everyone around me has all the hand-knit socks they will ever need during their lifetime.

You can find me as itoishi on ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2018 Ema Marinescu