INTRODUCTION

Gothix

by Birgit Freyer

A while ago, I became fascinated with slipped stitches. In fact, I had already designed a lot of sock patterns featuring slipped stitches, and twisted stitches, and a combination of both, but all of them in just one colour – either solid coloured or variegated yarns. Then, one day, I wondered how it would look if I combined two vastly different colours in a technique of slipped and twisted stitches. I call this Matrix style. Unlike Fair Isle, there are no colour changes during the round, no threads floating at the back of the work – or at the inside of the sock. Each round is worked completely in one colour. The colour changes are created by slipping the stitches. The texture is created by twisting them. I started playing with different yarns: How does the sock look if I put the emphasis on the lighter of the two yarns? Or on the darker one? What if I use one solid and one variegated yarn instead of two solids? And so on… I created graphical patterns, romantic patterns with smaller and bigger motifs, played with colours and lines.

And now, I want to share my pattern Gothix with you. It consists of intertwining lines reminiscent of a Celtic braid. The pattern starts at the cuff, flows down the leg and continues across the instep, right up to the toe. Feel free to explore the different effects of choosing different colours, or stay close to the suggested combination. The possibilities are endless.

photos: Birgit Freyer

SIZE

Women's M[L, XL]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Ankle & Foot Circumference: 9[9.5, 10] inches / 23[24, 25] cm
Foot and Leg Length: adjustable to fit

Note: Because slip stitch patterns do not have as much stretch as ribbing or stockinette stitch, choose the size that is closest to your actual foot/ankle circumference.

MATERIALS

[MC]Lang Yarns Jawoll Magic Dégradé [75% wool, 25% nylon; 400m / 437 yds per 100 g skein]; Color 85.0054 (colorful)
[CC] Lang Yarns Jawoll superwash [75% wool, 25% nylon; 210m / 230 yds per 50 g skein]; Color 83.0025 (dark blue)

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1/2.25 mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long or 2 short circulars

Notions
yarn needle
cable needle (optional; cables can be worked without the needle if you prefer)

GAUGE

30 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
34 sts/52 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in pattern stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

LT: Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front of work; k1, then k1 from cable needle
RT: Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back of work; k1, then k1 from cable needle

CHARTS

These charts are worked using the Matrix method: Unlike Fair Isle, there are no colour changes during the round, no threads floating at the back of the work – or at the inside of the sock. Each round is worked completely in one colour. The colour changes are created by slipping the stitches.

In the charts below, odd-numbered rounds are worked with MC only, even-numbered rounds worked with CC only.

IMPORTANT: The stitches worked vary by size: work sts 1-17[1-18, 1-19].

DIRECTIONS

Using MC, CO 68[72, 76] stitches. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Cuff
Cuff round: Work Cuff Chart four times around, working sts as indicated for your size.
Work the 2 rounds 7 times in total. 14 rounds total.

Leg
Leg round: Work Main Pattern chart four times around, working sts as indicated for your size.

Work Rounds 1-50, and repeat Rounds 19-50 once more, then work Rounds 19-20 again.

Heel

Heel flap:
Turn work so that WS is facing. Using CC, heel flap will be worked back and forth in rows over first 34[36, 38] sts of the round.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl1, p 33[35, 37] , turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl1, k 33[35, 37] , turn.
Repeat last 2 rows 15[16, 17] times more, and work Row 1 again. 33[35, 37] rows total.

Turn heel:
Row 1 [RS]: K 18[19, 20] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k4, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS] Sl1 wyif, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k6, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6 [WS] Sl1 wyif, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k8, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8 [WS] Sl1 wyif, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k10, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10 [WS] Sl1 wyif, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k12, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12 [WS] Sl1 wyif, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k14, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p15, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k16, ssk, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p16, p2tog, turn. 18 sts rem.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k17.
Proceed to Gusset.

Size L Only:
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p17, p2tog, p1, turn. 20 sts rem.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k19.

Size XL Only:
Row 15 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k16, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 17 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k18, ssk, turn.
Row 18 [WS]: Sl1 wyif, p18, p2tog, turn. 20 sts rem.
Row 19 [RS]: Sl1 wyib, k19.

Gusset:
Gusset setup round: With right side facing, pick up and knit 17[19, 21] stitches along the edge of the heel flap using the slipped sts as a guide; this is the start of the instep, place a marker or rearrange sts if desired. Work across 34[36, 38] instep stitches according to row 21 of the chart. This is the end of the instep; place another marker or rearrange sts as you prefer. Pick up and knit 17[19, 21] stitches along the edge of the heel flap using the slipped sts as a guide. K to start of instep; this is the new start of round. 86[94, 100] stitches total.

Decrease Gusset:
Gusset round 1: Work chart as set across instep; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Gusset round 2: Work chart as set across instep; k to end of round.
Repeat the last 2 rounds 10[12, 13] times more. 64[68, 72] stitches rem.

Foot
Work even in pattern as set – repeating rounds 19-50 of the chart, until foot measures 1.5[1.75, 1.75] inches/ 3.5[4, 4] cm less than your total foot length, ending with Rounds 23, 29, 35, 41 or 47 of the chart.

Before you work the toe, you will need to rearrange the stitches slightly, so that there is the same number of stitches on both instep and sole. Move the first and last sts of the instep to the sole, either by moving the markers or by rearranging sts.

Toe
Cut MC. Chart is worked only in CC.

Round 1: K1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of sole, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat last 2 rounds until 24 stitches remain. Divide these stitches on 2 needles, cut yarn leaving a long tail and graft together.

FINISHING

Weave in the ends.
Wash the socks and pull them into form before drying

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Birgit Freyer was born in 1962 in West Germany. She studied structural drawing and then went to Arts School to study Design. From the age of 17, she has been a passionate needleworker, who learned to make bobbin lace, weave, spin yarn, felt, embroider, sew, knit, and crochet. The last three techniques she still uses frequently; the others less so.

Since 2003, she has been designing knitting patterns mainly for shawls and socks, which she sells very successfully in her own local yarn store in Berlin, Germany, as well as in her own online yarn store.

You can find her designs on Ravelry and in her online yarn store.

Pattern & images © 2019 Birgit Freyer.