Juuret, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a DETAILS HERE.
INTRODUCTION
Juuret
by Anu Ahoniemi
This sweater is inspired by the growth in springtime, all the little pale sprouts coming out from the ground as a promise of the coming summer. The pale yellow yarn reflects the fragility of spring. I designed a pullover with short sleeves which is tight on your body reminiscent of the style of the sixties. The pullover has negative ease as I wanted it to wrap around you closely, just like nature does if you let it. The soft merino yarn warms you just like nature does when you let it comfort you and give you strength in its fragile power. Another option could also be a cotton yarn with a high twist.
The top-down pullover is asymmetrical and has a tubular cast-on. The increases and the decreases for creating the yoke and the shaping of the body grow slowly, but in a rhythm that reminds me of the yearly growth in nature. The pullover comes in seven sizes, which are slightly different in increases and decreases, but all fit the body with a tight fit. To get the right fit, I recommend choosing a size which has some negative ease when compared to your bust.
model: Anu Ahoniemi
photos: Ilkka Lehdonmäki
SIZE
Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size 1X with 2 inches/5 cm of negative ease
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 32.75[36, 38, 42, 44.75, 47.25, 51.25] inches / 83[91.5, 96.5, 106.5, 113.5, 120, 130] cm
Length: 21.5[22, 22, 22.5, 22.5, 23.25, 23.75] inches / 54.5[56, 56, 57, 57, 59, 60.5] cm
MATERIALS
Koigu Premium Merino KPM [100% Merino wool; 175yd/160m per 50 g skein]; color: 2335; 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] skeins
Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle, 32 inch/80cm length
US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle, 16 inch/40cm length
Notions
Tapestry needle
Waste yarn or stitch holders
Stitch markers, 12 of one separate color to mark waist shaping
GAUGE
24 sts/36 rnds = 4 inches/10 cm in k2, p2 ribbing and k4, p2 ribbing
Note: Gauge is flexible due to nature of ribbing.
Make sure you have a similar tension in your gauge swatch knitted at the correct gauge as you would like to have in your finished garment.
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
This pullover is very short as this shirt is meant to sit tightly on your waist when wearing skirts.
When working in pattern, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts as they appear. You should always have a column of 2 purl sts between groups of knit sts.
m1pL: Insert left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit and the following stitch; purl into the back of this loop. 1 stitch increased.
m1pR: Insert left needle from back to front under the horizontal strand which lies between the stitch just knit and the following stitch; purl into the front of this loop. 1 stitch increased.
K2, P2 Rib
Rnd 1: (K2, p2) to end of rnd.
Rep this rnd for patt.
Techniques:
DIRECTIONS
Collar
Using 2.5mm shorter circ and k2, p2 tubular cast-on method, CO 128 sts. Pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in K2, P2 rib for 1.5 inches / 4 cm.
Short row shaping:
Short row 1 [RS]: Patt 3, w&t.
Short row 2 [WS]: Patt to m, sl m, patt 23, pm (center back), patt 26, w&t.
Short row 3: Work in pattern to previous w&t, work wrap with wrapped st, patt 3, w&t.
Rep Short row 3 five times more.
Short row 9 [RS]: Patt to beg of rnd m.
Yoke
Note: Resume working in the rnd. Work rem wraps with wrapped sts on following rnd.
Inc rnd 1: *M1R, k2, m1L, p2, k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 160 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *K4, p2, k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Inc rnd 2: *K4, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 192 sts.
Next 7 rnds: (K4, p2) to end.
Inc rnd 3: *K2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, p2, k4, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 224 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *(K2, p2) twice, k4, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Inc rnd 4: *(K2, p2) twice, k2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 256 sts.
Next 7 rnds: (K2, p2) to end.
Inc rnd 5: *(K2, p2) three times, m1R, k2, m1L, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 288 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *(K2, p2) three times, k4, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Inc rnd 6: *K2, p2, k2, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, p2, k4, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 320 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *(K2, p2) twice, (k4, p2) twice; rep from * to end.
All Sizes except XS:
Inc rnd 7: *K2, p2, m1R, k2, m1L, (p2, k4) twice, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 352 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *K2, (p2, k4) three times, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Sizes L-3X Only:
Inc rnd 8: *M1R, k2, m1L, (p2, k4) three times, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 384 sts.
Next 7 rnds: (K4, p2) to end.
Sizes 2X & 3X Only:
Inc rnd 9: *(K4, p2) three times, k2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 416 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *(K4, p2) three times, (k2, p2) twice; rep from * to end of rnd.
Size 3X Only:
Inc rnd 10: *K4, p2, k2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice, p2; rep from * to end of rnd. 448 sts.
Next 7 rnds: *K4, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
All Sizes continue here:
320[352, 352, 384, 384, 416, 448] sts.
Work even in patt for 7 rnds more.
Divide for Body and Sleeves:
Next rnd: Remove m, place next 64[68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 86] sts on holder, CO 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts for underarm, pm for new beg of rnd, CO 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts, work 96[108, 108, 120, 120, 128, 138] sts in pattern, place next 64[68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 86] sts on holder, CO 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts for underarm, pm, CO 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts, work next 96[108, 108, 120, 120, 128, 138] sts in pattern. 196[216, 228, 252, 268, 284, 308] sts rem.
Body
Next rnd: *Over the next 2[0, 6, 6, 14, 14, 16] underarm sts work as foll:
Size XS Only: K2.
Size M Only: K2, p2, k2.
Size L Only: K4, p2.
Size 1X Only: K4, p2, k2, p2, k4.
Size 2X Only: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2.
Size 3X Only: (K2, p2) 8 times.**
Patt to 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts before next m and repeat from * to ** once.
Patt to end of rnd at center of next underarm.
Work even in patt for 7 rnds.
Begin waist shaping:
Note: Waist decreases always take place over a set of 4 knit rib sts, decreasing the 4 sts into 2. For the waist shaping markers, use markers in different colors to distinguish them from the underarm markers.
Work in pattern for 7 rounds.
Set-up rnd 1: *Patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, pm, patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, pm, patt 18[28, 34, 46, 54, 22, 34] sts, pm, patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, pm, patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, sl m; rep from * once more.
Dec rnd 1: *(Patt to next waist mrk, patt to next 4-st knit column, ssk, k2tog) twice, (patt to last 4-st knit column before next waist m, ssk, k2tog, patt to waist m) twice, patt to underarm m; rep from * once more. 16 sts dec.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Set-up rnd 2: *Patt 10 sts, pm, patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, pm, patt 30[40, 46, 58, 66, 54, 66] sts, pm, patt 20[20, 20, 20, 20, 30, 30] sts, pm, patt 10 sts; sl m; rep from * once more.
Repeat Dec rnd 1. 164[184, 196, 220, 236, 252, 276] sts.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Set-up rnd 3: *Patt 41[46, 49, 55, 59, 63, 69] sts, pm, patt 41[46, 49, 55, 59, 63, 69] sts, patt to underarm m; rep from * once more.
Dec rnd 2: *Patt to next waist mrk, patt to next 4-st knit column, ssk, k2tog, patt to underarm m; rep from * once more. 160[180, 192, 216, 232, 248, 272] sts.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Work even in patt as est’d until piece measures 8[7.5, 7.5, 7, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5] inches / 20.5[19, 19, 18, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5] cm from underarm.
Begin hip shaping:
Note: Hip shaping is worked as for the waist shaping, but hip increases always take place over a set of 2 knit rib sts, increasing the 2 sts into 4. For the waist shaping markers, use markers in different colors to distinguish them from the underarm markers.
Set-up rnd 1: *Patt 10 sts, pm, patt 10 sts, pm, patt 40[50, 56, 68, 76, 84, 96] sts, pm, patt 10 sts, pm, patt 10 sts, sl m; rep from * once more.
Inc rnd: *(Patt to next waist mrk, patt to next 2-st knit column, M1R, k2, M1L) twice, (patt to last 2-st knit column before next waist m, M1R, k2, M1L, patt to waist m) twice, patt to underarm m; rep from * once more. 16 sts inc.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Set-up rnd 2: *Patt 15 sts, pm, patt 20[25, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45] sts, pm, patt 18[18, 24, 26, 24, 22, 24] sts, pm, patt 20[25, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45] sts, pm, patt 15 sts, sl underarm m; rep from * once more.
Rep Inc rnd. 192[212, 224, 248, 264, 280, 304] sts.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Set-up rnd 3: *Patt 25[30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55] sts, pm, patt 10 sts, pm, patt 26[26, 22, 24, 22, 20, 22] sts, pm, patt 10 sts, pm, patt 25[30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55] sts, sl side “seam” m; rep from * once more.
Rep Inc rnd. 208[228, 240, 264, 280, 296, 320] sts.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
Sizes 2X and 3X only:
Set-up rnd 4: *Patt 20 sts, pm, patt 20 sts, pm, patt -[-, -, -, -, 68, 80] sts, pm, patt 20 sts, pm, patt 20 sts, sl underarm m; rep from * once more.
Rep Inc rnd.
Work even in patt for 6 rnds, removing waist shaping markers.
All sizes continue here:
208[228, 240, 264, 280, 312, 336] sts.
Work even in patt as est’d until piece measures 13[12.5, 12.5, 12, 12, 12, 11.5] inches / 33[32, 32, 30.5, 30.5, 30.5, 29] cm from underarm, or desired length.
Finishing rnd 1: Sl m, k1, slip the knitted st back to left needle, turn work to WS, pull the yarn over the needle to create what looks like a doubled stitch, sl m, knit to end of rnd, knitting the doubled stitch as one stitch.
Finishing rnd 2 [WS]: Knit.
BO loosely knitwise.
Sleeves
With 2.5 mm shorter circ, pick up 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts from center of underarm CO to holder, 64[68, 68, 72, 72, 80, 86] sts from holder, then 1[0, 3, 3, 7, 7, 8] sts from underarm edge. Pm for beg of rnd. 66[68, 74, 78, 86, 94, 102] sts.
Join yarn to beg of rnd.
Underarm set-up rnd:
Size XS Only: K1, patt to last st, k1.
Size S Only: Patt to end.
Size L Only: K3, patt to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Size 1X Only: K1, p2, k4, patt to last 7 sts, k4, p2, k1.
Size 2X Only: K1, p2, k2, p2, patt to last 7 sts, k2, p2, k3.
Size 3X Only: (P2, k2) 4 times, patt to last 16 sts, (p2, k2).
Note: When decreasing for sleeves, ensure that there are always 2 purl sts between groups of knit sts. If necessary, purl the underarm decreases instead of knitting them. Sleeve decreases always take place over a set of 4 knit rib sts, decreasing the 4 sts into 2. For the sleeve shaping markers, use markers in different colors to distinguish them from the beginning of rnd marker.
Note: You will be increasing and decreasing at the same time. Maintain the patt as set by the established rib, increases and decreases.
Rnd 1: *Patt 16[17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25] sts, pm, patt 34[34, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52] sts, pm, patt 16[17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25] sts.
Rnd 2: Patt to m, patt to next 4-st knit column, k2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, patt to last 4-st knit column before next m, k2, m1pR, m1pL, k2, patt to last 2 sts, ssk. 4 sts inc, 1 st decreased.
Rnd 3: K2tog, patt to end, removing sleeve shaping markers. 1 st decreased.
Rnd 4: Patt to last 2 sts, ssk. 1 st decreased.
Rnd 5: K2tog, patt to end. 1 st decreased.
Rnds 6-9: Rep Rnds 4-5 twice. 62[64, 70, 74, 82, 90, 98] sts.
Rnd 10: *Patt 26[27, 30, 32, 36, 40, 44] sts, pm, patt 20 sts, pm, patt 16[17, 20, 22, 26, 30, 34] sts.
Rnds 11-18: Rep Rnds 2-9 once. 58[60, 66, 70, 78, 86, 94] sts.
Finishing rnd 1: Sl m, k1, slip the knitted st back to left needle, turn work to WS, pull the yarn over the needle to create what looks like a doubled stitch, sl m, knit to end of rnd, knitting the doubled stitch as one stitch.
Finishing rnd 2 [WS]: Knit.
BO loosely knitwise.
Repeat for other sleeve.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measures.
A: Approximate neck circumference (rib relaxed): 16 inches / 40.5 cm
B: Yoke length (including collar): 8.5[9.5, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11.25, 12.25] inches / 21.5[24, 24, 26.5, 26.5, 28.5, 31] cm
C: Bust circumference: 32.75[36, 38, 42, 44.75, 47.25, 51.25] inches / 83[91.5, 96.5, 106.5, 113.5, 120, 130] cm
D: Waist circumference: 26.75[30, 32, 36, 38.75, 41.25, 45.25] inches / 68[76, 81.5, 91.5, 98.5, 105, 115] cm
E: Hip circumference: 34.75[38, 40, 44, 46.75, 52, 56] inches / 88.5[96.5, 101.5, 112, 118.5, 132, 142] cm
F: Upper arm circumference: 9.75[10, 11, 11.75, 13, 14.25, 15.75] inches / 25[25.5, 28, 30, 33, 36, 40] cm
G: Sleeve length: 2.25 inches / 5.5 cm
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Anu Ahoniemi has her designer background in architecture and art history. Her passion as a knitwear designer is to create practical and wearable everyday garments. Knitting has been a part of her life since she was very young and she knits and designs something all the time. She shares her life between Paris and Finland enjoying the best parts of the two locations. She loves historical city centers as well as observing the development of cities.
Find her here on Ravelry.
Pattern & images © 2019 Anu Ahoniemi.