INTRODUCTION

Allies

by Amy Gunderson

This is not the first time I've designed a knit/crochet combo piece for Knitty, and that's because I love to! In this tank, I think of the two crafts as being friends, buddies, allies, hence the name. Crochet is there to add interest to the hem and edges, while knit enters the scene to work up a plain body to show off crochet's part.

My goal with this piece is for it to be makeable by both knitters and crocheters. The crochet isn't too tough, and neither is the knitting. For folks who haven't done one or the other, this could be a good place to start! My other goal was to make this bra-strap friendly without the need to wear an additional tank underneath. I like to wear my hand-makes during the summer without feeling like I'm melting!

model: Amy Gunderson

photos: Justin Reed

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
Shown in size S with 4 inches/10 cm of ease at chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest:  34.25[38.5, 43, 45, 49.5, 53.75, 56, 60.25, 64.75] inches / 87[98, 109, 114.5, 125.5, 136.5, 142, 153.5, 164.5] cm
Length from shoulder:  20.5[21, 21.75, 22.25, 23, 23.5, 24.25, 24.5, 25] inches / 52[53.5, 55.5, 56.5, 58.5, 59.5, 61.5, 62, 63.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Premier Yarns Cotton Fair [52% Cotton, 48% Acrylic; 317 yd/290 m per 3.5 oz/100 g skein]; color: 27-32 Kelly; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a sportweight plied cotton blend. The acrylic content gives the yarn memory that works well with the drapiness of cotton. Cotton, cotton blends, and other plant fiber yarns will be great substitutes. Choose a solid or solid-reading color to best show off the filet crochet patterning.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #4/3.5mm 24-42 inch/6-80cm circular needle
1 F-5/3.75mm crochet hook

Notions
stitch markers
stitch holder
yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/8.5 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in double crochet
22 sts/28 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in St st

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: Front and back hems are crocheted separately and seamed together at the sides. After seaming, the rest of the tank is worked upward in stockinette stitch. Finally, Filet crochet borders are added to armholes and neck edge.

How to read a filet crochet chart:
If the first square of the chart is light colored, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). If the first square of the chart is dark colored, ch 3, dc in next 2 sts.

After the first square, every light-colored square = dc in next st, ch 2, sk2; every dark-colored square = dc in each of the next 3 sts. After you have worked the final st on the chart, work a dc in the final st of the row.

Sloped Bind-Off:
Slip the last stitch of the row before the bind-off. On the bind-off row, slip the first two stitches, pass the first slipped stitch over the second, bind off remaining stitches as usual.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

FRONT
Hem
With crochet hook, ch 96[108, 120, 126, 138, 150, 156, 168, 180] .
Row 1: Dc in fourth ch from hook and each ch across, turn – 94[106, 118, 124, 136, 148, 154, 166, 178] dc. This counts as Row 1 of chart. Continue to work Rows 2-17 of chart. Fasten off.

BACK
Hem
Work as for Front Hem.

With right sides held together, whipstitch Hems together at the sides.

BODY
With knitting needles, with RS facing, starting at one of the seams, pick up and knit 188[212, 236, 248, 272, 296, 308, 332, 356] sts around Row 17 of Hem. Work even in St st until piece measures 12.5[12.5, 12.75, 12.75, 13, 13, 13.25, 13.25, 13.5] inches/ 32[32, 32.5, 32.5, 33, 33, 33.5, 33.5, 34.5] cm from lower edge
of Hem.

Separate Front and Back:
Rnd 1: K 88[99, 110, 115, 126, 137, 142, 153, 164] Front sts, bind off 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts for underarm, k until you have 82[92, 102, 106, 116, 126, 130, 140, 150] Back sts on right-hand needle, bind off 12[14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts for underarm – 82[92, 102, 106, 116, 126, 130, 140, 150] rem each for Front and Back. Place Back sts on holder.

Shape Front Armholes:
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Bind off 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7] sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then bind off 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts at the beg of the following 2 rows – 70[78, 88, 92, 98, 106, 110, 116, 124] sts rem.
Following row [WS]: Purl.
Dec row 1 [RS]: K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2 – 2 sts dec'd.
Dec row 2 [WS]: P2, ssp, purl to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2 – 2 sts dec'd.
Rep Dec rows 1-2 0[0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4] more times, then work Dec row 1 followed by an even WS row, 3[5, 6, 6, 5, 5, 6, 6, 9] times – 60[64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 82, 84, 86] sts rem.
Work even in St st until Armholes measures 3[3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.5] inches/ 7.5[9, 10, 11.5, 12.5, 14, 15, 16, 16.5] cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Right Front Neck:
Row 1 [RS]: K 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] Left Front sts, bind off center 20[22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28] Neck sts, k to end of row. 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] sts just worked form Right Front; place 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] rem sts for Left Front sts on holder.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.

Note: Bind off sts using the sloped method. See Pattern Notes for details.

Row 3: Bind off 5 sts, knit to end. 15[16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 23, 24] sts rem.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Bind off 3 sts, knit to end. 12[13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21] sts rem.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2, k2tog, knit to end. 1 st dec'd.
Row 8: Purl.
Rows 9-16: Rep Rows 7-8 4 more times – 7[8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16] sts rem.
Work even in St st until Armhole meas 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.25, 11.5] inches/ 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 28.5, 29] cm, ending with a WS row. Bind off all sts.

Shape Left Front Neck:
With WS facing, return held sts to needle and rejoin yarn.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3 [RS]: Knit.
Row 4: Bind off 5 sts, purl to end. 15[16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 23, 24] sts rem.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Bind off 3 sts, purl to end. 12[13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 21] sts rem.
Row 7: Knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2 – 1 st dec'd.
Row 8: Purl.
Rows 9-16: Rep Rows 7-8 4 more times – 7[8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16] sts rem.
Work even in St st until Armhole measures 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.25, 11.5] inches/ 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 28.5, 29] cm, ending with a WS row. Bind off all sts.

Shape Back Armholes:
Return held sts of Back to needles. With RS facing, rejoin yarn.
Work as for Front Armholes – 60[64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 82, 84, 86] sts rem.
Work even in St st until Armholes measures 5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.25, 8.5] inches/ 12.5[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21, 21.5] cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Left Back Neck:
Row 1 [RS]: K 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] Right Back sts, bind off center 20[22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28] Neck sts, k to end of row. 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] sts just worked form Left Back; place 20[21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29] rem sts for Right Back.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Note: Bind off sts using the sloped method.
Row 3: Bind off 5 sts, knit to end. 15[16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 23, 24] sts rem.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Bind off 3 sts, knit to end. 12[13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 20, 21] sts rem.
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K2, k2tog, knit to end. 1 st dec'd.
Row 8: Purl.
Rows 9-16: Rep Rows 7-8 4 more times – 7[8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16] sts rem.

Work even in St st until Armhole measures 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.25, 11.5] inches/ 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 28.5, 29] cm, ending with a WS row. Bind off all sts.

Shape Right Front Neck:
Return held sts to needle.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3 [RS]: Knit.
Row 4: Bind off 5 sts, purl to end. 15[16, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 23, 24] sts rem.
Row 5: Knit.
Row 6: Bind off 3 sts, purl to end. 12[13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 21] sts rem.
Row 7: Knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2 – 1 st dec'd.
Row 8: Purl.
Rows 9-16: Rep Rows 7-8 4 more times – 7[8, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 15, 16] sts rem.

Work even in St st until Armhole measures 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.25, 11.5] inches/ 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 28.5, 29] cm, ending with a WS row. Bind off all sts.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Handwash pieces with gentle soap. Pat dry and lay on blocking mats to dry. Sew shoulder and side seams.

Armhole Edging

Rnd 1: With RS facing, starting at center of underarm, beg with standing dc and work 98[104, 112, 119, 126, 132, 140, 144, 148] sts evenly around Armhole, join with sl st to beg dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next dc, *dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc; rep from * around, join with sl st to beg dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in next sp, dc in each st and sp around, join with sl st to beg dc.
Fasten off.

Neck Edging
Join yarn with sl st to Right Back Neck.
Rnd 1: With RS facing, starting at start of Right Back Neck, beg with standing dc, and work 60[62, 62, 64, 64, 66, 66, 68, 68] sts along Back Neck and 80[82, 82, 84, 84, 86, 86, 88, 88] sts along Front Neck, join with sl st to beg dc – 140[144, 144, 148, 148, 152, 152, 156, 156] sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next dc, *dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc; rep from * around, join with sl st to beg dc.
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc in next sp, dc in each st and sp around, join with sl st to beg dc.
Fasten off.

A (Hem Circumference): 37.5[42.5, 47.25, 49.5, 54.5, 59.25, 61.5, 66.5, 71.25] inches/ 95[107.5, 120, 126, 138, 150.5, 156.5, 168.5, 181] cm
B (Chest Circumference): 34.25[38.5, 43, 45, 49.5, 53.75, 56, 60.25, 64.75] inches/ 87[98, 109, 114.5, 125.5, 136.5, 142, 153.5, 164.5] cm
C (Length to Underarm): 12.5[12.5, 12.75, 12.75, 13, 13, 13.25, 13.25, 13.5] inches/ 32[32, 32.5, 32.5, 33, 33, 33.5, 33.5, 34.5] cm
D (Armhole Depth: 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5, 11, 11.25, 11.5] inches/ 20.5[21.5, 23, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 28.5, 29] ] cm
E (Neck Width): 8.25[8.75, 8.75, 9, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 9.75, 9.75] inches/ 21[22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24, 25, 25] cm
F (Shoulder Width): 1.25[1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 2.75, 3] inches/ 3[3.5, 4.5, 5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5] cm
G (Front Neck Drop): 5 inches/12.5 cm
H (Back Neck Drop): 3 inches/7.5 cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Amy has been crazy for yarn ever since she had some downtime in between pizza making back in Iowa. She's been the creative director for Universal Yarn, yarn director for Jimmy Beans Wool, and has done knit and crochet designs for most major magazines. She is currently the senior creative manager for Premier Yarns. She also does freelance design work, technical editing, crochet chart making, and many other assorted yarny things.

When she's not busy with fiber, she's probably playing tennis, at the dog park, or sitting in the corner being antisocial.

Pattern & images © 2025 Amy Gunderson