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Coachella is hot! The dry heat of the Coachella Valley desert in Southern California inspired this cool racerback tank. Knit in a slightly looser-than-specified gauge, the construction of this tank beats the heat with a draped neckline and a mostly bare back. A perfect look for basking by the pool in Palm Springs or for rocking the Coachella Valley Music Festival down in Indio.

The placement and shape of the armholes distort the front of the piece when worn to create a curved, draped neckline. The front edge of the armholes should fall at approximately the middle of your armpit on either side. I designed this garment to accommodate a halter bra; you might also be able to find racerback bras that fit under this top without showing.

[p.s. it's pronounced

model & photos: Fathom Harvill


XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size S)

Chest: 25[29, 33, 37, 41, 45] inches
Note: Because of the way the top is constructed, the chest circumference when worn is approx. 7 inches larger than it appears when the top is laid flat. The sizes given will fit up to 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52] inches.
Length: 20[21, 21, 21.5, 23, 23] inches
Berroco Suede [100% Nylon; 120 yd/111m per 50g ball]; color #3727 Dale Evans; 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 7] balls

29-inch or 32-inch US # 9/5.5mm circular needle (or size to obtain gauge)
29-inch or 32-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
Stitch markers
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle
18 sts / 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch using US #9 needles.

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

There is no edging on the armholes, and the piece is knit in the round. This means there is no place to hide knots or ends while knitting. When joining in new yarn, do so at the sides of the piece, where the side seams would be, to minimize visibility.

Using smaller needle, CO 112[130, 148, 166, 186, 202] sts.

Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Place marker to indicate end of round (use a marker that is different from the others).

Round 1: Working into the back of each st, k23[27, 31, 35, 39, 42], place marker, k56[65, 74, 83, 93, 101], place marker, k23[27, 31, 35, 39, 42], place marker, k10[11, 12, 13, 15, 17].

K 4 more rounds, working into the back of each st to create a firm rolled edge.
Using larger needles, k 5 rounds.

Divide for Front and Back:
Next Round: K to third marker, remove marker and place remaining 10[11, 12, 13, 15, 17] sts on st holder, remove end-of-round marker. 102[119, 136, 153, 171, 185] sts on needle.

From this point, the upper front will be worked back and forth in rows. The two remaining markers indicate side seam placement.

BO 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 96[111, 128, 143, 161, 175] sts.

P 1 row.
Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 9[10, 11, 14, 16, 16] times more. 76[89, 104, 113, 127, 141] sts.

Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Work Decrease Row.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 1, 2] times more. 70[83, 98, 109, 123, 135] sts.

Note: Read ahead before proceeding.
Work 12[12, 12, 14, 14, 10] rows in stockinette st, working bust shaping as described below if desired. Work measures 8.5[8.75, 9, 9.5, 10, 10] inches.

Optional Bust Shaping:
Work bust shaping 6 rows after last Decrease Row.
When working the row which follows each short row below, pick up wrap and work it together with wrapped st.
For C[D] cup, work from * to * below, 1[2] times:
*Row 1 [RS]: K to 5 sts before second marker, W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P to 5 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 3 [RS]: K to 4 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P to 4 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K to 3 sts before marker, W&T.
Row 6 [WS]: P to 3 sts before marker, W&T.
K to end of row.
P 1 row.*
Bust shaping is complete.

Place all sts on hold on smaller circular needle (do not remove st markers).

Replace held sts of upper back on larger needle and rejoin yarn with RS facing.
Work 12[12, 12, 14, 14, 10] rows in stockinette st.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[2, 2, 1, 1, 2] times more. 16[17, 18, 17, 19, 23] sts.

Work Increase Row.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 9[10, 11, 14, 16, 16] times more.
36[39, 42, 47, 53, 57] sts.

Back is same length as Front.

Join Back and Front as follows:
Next Row [RS]: K all sts, CO 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, work held sts from smaller needle onto larger needle, keeping st markers in place; CO 3[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts.

Place end-of-round marker and join to work in the round, ensuring that CO edges are not twisted. 112[130, 148, 166, 186, 202] sts.

K 10 rounds.
At this point, I suggest transferring all stitches to waste yarn and trying on the top to make sure you have the desired drape and fit over the bust.

Shape Waist:
Size XS Only:
Decrease Round: K to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, k to second marker, ssk, k to end of round. 110 sts.

Sizes S, M, L, 1X, 2X Only:
Decrease Round: K to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, ssk, k to end.
K 4 rounds.
Repeat Decrease Round. -[122, 140, 158, 178, 194] sts.

All Sizes:
K 15[16, 16, 16, 18, 18] rounds.
Increase Round: [K to 2 sts before marker, kfb, k1, kfb] twice, k to end.
K 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds once, then work Increase Round once more. 122[134, 152, 170, 190, 206] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 19.25[20.25, 20.25, 20.75, 22.25, 22.25] inches or 0.75 inch less than desired length.
Using smaller needle, k 6 rounds, working into the back of each st.
BO all sts.

Block as desired.

Emily designs under the name Fathom Harvill. Some time this summer, she's moving from the West Coast to the East. Find out if it's possible to drive a cat, a dog, three bikes, four pairs of skis, and a sizeable amount of yarn cross-country in a Prius by checking her blog.