Ruth cardigan (Ethnic Knitting Adventures): Knitty Winter 2012

by Donna Druchunas

My interest in knitting has been kept alive over the years by the almost infinite variety of color, pattern, and texture that is found in collections of knitters and museums around the world. Although I love the smooth, quiet repetition of knitting a rectangular scarf in garter stitch using a luxurious yarn, it is the endless diversity of technique and style that keeps me interested in knitting as more than a way to keep my hands busy while watching TV.

"It's a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don't keep your feet, there's no knowing where you might be swept off to."
--from The Lord of The Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien

by Donna Druchunas

This cardigan is based on the designs my grandmother made in the 1970s using two of my favorite cable stitches: honeycomb and hollow oak. The first I learned from my grandmother when I was a girl, and the second I learned from the owner of my local yarn shop after I returned to knitting in my mid-thirties. Saddle shoulders give a nod to tradition and waist shaping -- worked in the purl columns between the cable motifs -- updates the silhouette with a contemporary fit.

The sweater is worked back and forth in pieces, with no cable twists worked on wrong-side rows. The grey color of the yarn and the stone buttons remind me of the shade cast by clouds on the rocky cliffs of the Aran Islands.

model: Spencer Stackley

photos: Harrison Stone

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size S with 1 inch of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Finished Bust: 39[42, 46, 49, 53.5, 58, 62.5] inches
Length: 23.5[24, 24.5, 24.75, 25.25, 25.75, 26.25] inches
Note: To create an easy fit, the fronts when buttoned together are wider than the back. See schematic for detailed measurements (please note that schematic does not include buttonbands).

MATERIALS
Yarn
Rowan Pure Wool Aran [100% super wash wool; 186yd/170m per 100g ball]; color #684 Charcoal; 11[12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #8/5mm needles
US #7/4.5mm needles

Notions
cable needle
8 large buttons
tapestry needle

GAUGE

16 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in Reverse Stockinette stitch with larger needles, blocked.

At the above gauge, each design unit measures as follows:
Honeycomb Cable = 2 inches wide
Hollow Oak Cable = 2 inches wide
Each Rope Cable = .75 inches wide

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Work armhole decreases using k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain seed stitch pattern. When all seed st stitches have been decreased, work all decreases as p2tog.

When working decreases at neck, maintain pattern wherever possible. If maintaining a cable pattern becomes impossible, simply work all knit sts as knit and purl sts as purl.

Reverse Stockinette Stitch
Row 1 [RS]: Purl.
Row 2 [WS]: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Seed Stitch (worked over an odd number of sts)
Row 1 [RS]: K1, (p1, k1) across.
Rep Row 1 for patt.
Always knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts from the previous row.

Seed Stitch (worked over an even number of sts)
Row 1 [RS]: (P1, k1) across.
Row 2 [WS]: (K1, p1) across.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.
Always knit the purl sts and purl the knit sts from the previous row.

C4B: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2; k2 from cn.

C4F: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2; k2 from cn.

C3BP: Sl 1 st to cn and hold in back, k2; p1 from cn.

C3FP: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1; k2 from cn.

Bobble: (K1, p1, k1, p1, k1) into the next st. Turn, p5, turn, k5, turn, p5, turn. Sl 3 sts together k-wise, k2tog, pass all 3 slipped sts over.

M1P: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased.

CHARTS
The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized page.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
With smaller needles, CO 71[77, 83, 89, 97, 105, 113] sts.

Hem:
Work in Seed St for 7 rows.
Increase row [WS]: Seed st 11[14, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15], (pfb twice, seed st 0[0, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, pfb twice, seed st 4, pfb twice, seed st 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice, seed st 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11], pfb twice, seed st 7[7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10], pfb twice, seed st 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice, seed st 4, pfb twice, (seed st 0[0, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, seed st 11[14, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15]. 85[91, 101, 107, 115, 123, 131] sts.

Change to larger needles.

Begin charts:
Row 1 [RS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], (work Row 1 of Right Rope Cable, p0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, work Row 1 of Honeycomb Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Left Rope Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Hollow Oak Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Right Rope Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Honeycomb Cable, (p0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7]) work Row 1 of Left Rope Cable) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, p4 [4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8].

Row 2 [WS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], (work Row 2 of Left Rope Cable, k0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, work Row 2 of Honeycomb Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Right Rope Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Hollow Oak Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Left Rope Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Honeycomb Cable, (k0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Right Rope Cable) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8].

Continue working charts, seed st, and reverse stockinette st as established until piece measures approx. 4 inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Begin waist shaping:
Decrease row [RS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], (p2tog, purl to next cable panel, work next cable panel as established), 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] times, (purl to 2 sts before next cable panel, p2tog, work next cable panel as est), 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] times, purl to last 7[10, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, p2tog, seed st to end. 79[85, 93, 99, 107, 115, 123] sts. 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts decreased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.

Rep Decrease Row once more. Piece measures approx. 8 inches from CO edge. 73[79, 85, 91, 99, 107, 115] sts rem.

Begin bust shaping:
Work even for approx. 4 inches, ending after a WS row.
Increase row [RS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], (M1P, purl to next cable panel, work next cable panel as established), 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] times, (purl to next cable panel, M1P, work next cable panel as established), 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] times, purl to last 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts, M1P, seed st to end. 79[85, 93, 99, 107, 115, 123] sts. 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts increased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.

Rep Increase Row once more. Piece measures approx. 16 inches from CO edge. 85[91, 101, 107, 115, 123, 131] sts.

Work 1 WS row even in patt, or work until piece measures desired length to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes:
Next row [RS]: Dec 1, patt to last 2 sts, dec 1. 83[89, 99, 105, 113, 121, 129] sts. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patt as est.
Repeat last two rows 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] times more. 77[81, 87, 93, 97, 101, 105] sts. 6[8, 12, 12, 16, 20, 24] sts decreased.
Work even in patt as established until armhole measures 6[6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.75, 8.25, 8.75] inches, ending after a WS row.
Bind off all sts.

RIGHT FRONT
With smaller needles, CO 44[47, 50, 53, 58, 63, 68] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: P1, work in seed st to end.

Row 2 [WS]: Work seed st to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 1-2 twice more, then rep Row 1 once more.

Increase row [WS]: Seed st 11[14, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15], pfb twice, (seed st 0[0, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, seed st 4, pfb twice, seed st 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice, seed st 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11], pfb twice, seed st 7[7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10]. 52[55, 60, 63, 68, 73, 78] sts. 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts increased.

Change to larger needles.

Begin charts:
Row 1 [RS]: P4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Hollow Oak Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Right Rope Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Honeycomb Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], (work Row 1 of Left Rope cable, p0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8].

Row 2 [WS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], (k0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Left Rope cable) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Honeycomb Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Right Rope Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Hollow Oak Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7].

Continue working charts, seed st, and reverse stockinette st as established until piece measures approx. 4 inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Begin waist shaping:
Decrease row [RS]: (Purl to 2 sts before next cable panel, p2tog, work next cable panel as established) 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] times, purl to last 7[10, 7, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts, p2tog, seed st to end. 48[51, 55, 58, 63, 68, 73] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts decreased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.
Rep Decrease Row once more. Piece measures approx. 8 inches from CO edge. 44[47, 50, 53, 58, 63, 68] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts decreased.

Begin bust shaping:
Work even for approx. 4 inches, ending after a WS row.
Increase row [RS]: (Purl to next cable panel, M1P, work next cable panel as established), 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] times, purl to last 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], M1P, seed st to end. 48[51, 55, 58, 63, 68, 73] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts increased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.
Rep Increase Row once more. Piece measures approx. 16 inches from CO edge. 52[55, 60, 63, 68, 73, 78] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts increased.

Work 1 WS row even in patt, or work until piece measures same as Back to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes:
Next row [RS]: Patt to last 2 sts, dec 1. 51[54, 59, 62, 67, 72, 77] sts. 1 st decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patt as est.
Repeat last two rows 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] times more. 48[50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65] sts. 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] sts decreased.
Work even until armhole measures 3.5[4, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6] inches, ending after a WS row.

Shape neck:
Note: Slip the first stitch at beg of each bind-off for a smoother curve on the neck edge, making it easier to pick up sts for the collar.

Cont in patt, binding off 5[5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts at beg of next RS row, 4[4, 4, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of foll RS row, then 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts at beg of foll 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] RS rows. Dec 1 st at neck edge on every foll RS row 4[3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] times. 31[32, 35, 38, 39, 39, 42] sts rem.

Work even until piece measures same as Back to shoulder.
BO rem sts.

LEFT FRONT
With smaller needles, CO 44[47, 50, 53, 58, 63, 68] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Work in seed st to last st, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, work seed st to end.
Rep Rows 1-2 twice more, then rep Row 1 once more.

Increase row [WS]: Seed st 7[7, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10], pfb twice, seed st 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11], pfb twice, seed st 6[6, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9], pfb twice, seed st 4, (pfb twice, seed st 0[0, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, pfb twice, seed st 11[14, 9, 12, 13, 14, 15]. 52[55, 60, 63, 68, 73, 78] sts. 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10] sts increased.

Change to larger needles.

Begin charts:
Row 1 [RS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], (p0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Left Rope cable) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Honeycomb Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Right Rope Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 1 of Hollow Oak Cable, p4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7].

Row 2 [WS]: K4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Hollow Oak Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Right Rope Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], work Row 2 of Honeycomb Cable, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7], (work Row 2 of Left Rope cable, k0[0, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7]) 0[0, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1] time, seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8].

Continue working charts, seed st, and reverse stockinette st as established until piece measures approx. 4 inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Begin waist shaping:
Decrease row [RS]: Seed st 5[8, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8], (p2tog, purl to next cable panel, work next cable panel as established) 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] times, p2tog, purl to end. 48[51, 55, 58, 63, 68, 73]. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts decreased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.
Rep Decrease Row once more. Piece measures approx. 8 inches from CO edge. 44[47, 50, 53, 58, 63, 68] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts decreased.

Work even in patt for approx. 4 inches more, ending after a WS row.
Rep Increase Row once more. Piece measures approx. 16 inches from CO edge. 52[55, 60, 63, 68, 73, 78] sts. 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5] sts increased.

Work 1 WS row even in patt, or work until piece measures same as Back to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes:
Next row [RS]: Dec 1, patt to end. 51[54, 59, 62, 67, 72, 77] sts. 1 st decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patt as est.
Repeat last two rows 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] times more. 48[50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65] sts. 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] sts decreased.
Work until armhole measures 3.5[4, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6] inches, ending after a RS row.

Shape neck:
Note: Slip the first stitch at beg of each bind-off for a smoother curve on the neck edge, making it easier to pick up sts for the collar.

Cont in patt, binding off 5[5, 6, 7, 8, 8, 8] sts at beg of next WS row, 4[4, 4, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts at beg of foll WS row, then 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts at beg of foll 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] WS rows. Dec 1 st at neck edge on every foll RS row 4[3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] times. 31[32, 35, 38, 39, 39, 42] sts rem.

Work even until piece measures same as Back to shoulder.
BO rem sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
With smaller needles, CO 33[35, 37, 39, 43, 45, 47] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, seed st to last st, k1.

Row 2 [WS]: P1, seed st to last st, p1.

Continue to work in seed st with St st edge sts as established for 3 inches, ending after a RS row.

Increase Row [WS]: P1, seed st 5[6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12], pfb twice, seed st 8, pfb twice, seed st 7, pfb twice, seed st 5[6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12], p1. 39[41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 53] sts. 6 sts increased.

Change to larger needles.

Note: Read ahead! Stitch pattern directions and shaping directions are worked at the same time.

Begin charts:
Row 1 [RS]: K1, seed st 2[3, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8], p3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4], work Row 1 of Left Rope Cable, p4, work Row 1 of Hollow Oak Cable, p4, work Row 1 of Right Rope Cable, p3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4], seed st 2[3, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8], k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, seed st 2[3, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8], k3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4], work Row 2 of Right Rope Cable, p4, work Row 2 of Hollow Oak Cable, p4, work Row 2 of Left Rope Cable, p3[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4], seed st 2[3, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8], p1.
Cont in chart patt as set, AT THE SAME TIME, inc at each end of 3rd row and then every foll 4th row 12[13, 15, 15, 15, 16, 17] times more, working increases inside edge sts and into seed st pattern. 65[69, 75, 77, 81, 85, 89] sts. 26[28, 32, 32, 32, 34, 38] sts increased.

Work even in patt until sleeve measures 19.25[19.5, 20, 20.25, 20.75, 21, 21.5] inches from cast on, ending after a WS row.

Shape cap:
Next row [RS]: K1, dec 1, patt to last 3 sts, dec 1, k1. 63[67, 73, 75, 79, 83, 87] sts. 2 sts decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patt as established.
Repeat last two rows 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] times more. 57[59, 61, 63, 63, 63, 65] sts.
6[8, 12, 12, 16, 20, 24] sts decreased.

Saddle:
BO 21 [22, 23, 24, 24, 24, 25] sts at beg of next two rows. 15 sts rem (Hollow Oak Cable flanked by 2 purl sts on either side)
Work even in patt until length of saddle measures 6[6.25, 6.75, 7.5, 7.75, 7.75, 8.25] inches long.
BO rem sts.

FINISHING

Block all pieces. Using mattress stitch, sew front and back shoulders to sides of saddle. Sew front and back armholes to sleeve cap. Sew side seams and underarm seams.

BUTTONBAND
With RS of Left Front facing and smaller needles, beg at neck edge, pick up and knit 78[80, 84, 84, 86, 86, 88] sts to hem, CO 1 st. 79[81, 85, 85, 87, 87, 89] sts
Work in Seed st for 1.5 inches.
BO loosely in patt.

Mark button placement be placing a pin or removable marker in the buttonband 0.5 inch above the hem, 0.5 inch below the neck edge, then 4 more pins/markers evenly spaced in-between.

BUTTONHOLE BAND
With RS of Right Front facing and smaller needles, beg at hem, CO 1 st, pick up and knit 78[80, 84, 84, 86, 86, 88] sts to neck edge. 79[81, 85, 85, 87, 87, 89] sts
Work in Seed st for 0.75 inches.

Next row [RS]: *Patt to marker, yo, dec 1; rep from * five times more, patt to end of row.
Next row [WS]: Work in pattern, working yo as knit or purl as needed to maintain seed st patt.
Continue in seed st until buttonhole band measures 1.5 inches.
BO loosely in pattern.

COLLAR
Note: The collar will fold down, so the RS of the collar is the WS of the body.
With WS facing and smaller needles, starting at center of buttonband, pick up and knit 1 st for every 2 rows of buttonband, 1 st in each cast off st, approx. 1 st for every 2 rows to back neck, 1 st for every cast off st across back neck, approx. 1 st for every 2 rows to right neck bind offs, 1 st in every cast off st to buttonhole band, and 1 st for every 2 rows of buttonhold band. Adjust total stitch count so that you have an odd numbers of sts.
Row 1 [RS]: P1, (k1, p1) across.
Row 2 [WS]: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
Rep Rows 1-2 until collar measures 4 inches from picked up sts.
Change to larger needles and work in established rib for 2.5 inches more, ending after a WS row.

Collar Buttonholes
Next row [RS]: Rib 5, yo, k2tog, rib to last 7 sts, yo, k2tog, rib 5.
Work in rib as established until collar measures 7 inches from picked up sts.
BO loosely in patt. Fold collar to outside.

Sew buttons on buttonband opposite buttonholes.
Sew buttons on body of sweater matching location of buttonholes on collar. Button collar in place.

Weave in all remaining ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Donna Druchunas escaped a corporate cubicle to honor her passions for knitting, world travel, research, and writing. She is the author of six knitting books including Arctic Lace, Successful Lace Knitting, Kitty Knits, and Ethnic Knitting Exploration: Lithuania, Iceland, and Ireland. She teaches in the United States in Europe and now offers online sock-knitting classes at Craftsy.com.

Visit Donna's website at sheeptoshawl.com.