by Lisa Grossman

This is the sweater that answers the age-old question: Can a woman and a sheep fleece find enduring happiness together after falling in love at first sight? (The answer, of course, is an unequivocal affirmative. They can; they have.)

A sweet little dark-grey Romney fleece was the first thing that caught my eye at Connecticut Sheep and Wool 2010. In my part of the world that is the first of the spring fiber festivals, and at such moments, in the wake of the privations of winter, a fleece barn is a very dangerous place for my wallet. It wasn't a blue-ribbon winner, by a long shot, but then again it wasn't sporting a blue ribbon price tag either, and that was fine with me. I didn't care that the staple length was a little inconsistent or that there was a little too much barnyard in the bag. What nestled in my heart was the color, a deep intense charcoal grey with short little brown sun-tips. Between that and the soft shiny crimp I was a goner.

The odd thing is that I knew immediately what it was going to be. Usually when I fall victim to a fleece it's pure blind lust, the kind of "Oooooh shiny" greed that's all grabby-hands and sniffy-nose and doesn't give a damn about purpose. But this time... though the lust was certainly there... this time was different. This time I could actually SEE the sweater that this fleece was going to become. A deep cozy chewy cardigan, sturdy rather than soft, with simple elegant lines but an easy, casual, almost slouchy fit; deep ribbed shawl collar; practical pockets; perpendicular shoulder yoke, with a cable continued down the sleeve; I saw it all. Something to burrow into. Something to nestle in.

I vowed I would be wearing it before the first blizzard. I kept my vow.

Darrowby (named in tribute to James Herriot and the bleak winters of North Yorkshire - sheep country, after all) is a lot of sweater. Knitted to a relatively dense gauge for its grist, it works either as a jacket for merely chilly weather or as a powerful insulating layer against serious cold and wind. Knitting it just a little more loosely (same knitting gauge, that is, but in a yarn spun slightly finer) translates thermal armor into soft cozy drape; your call.
This is the sweater that kept my heating bills low during the brutal interminable winter of 2010-11.
This is the sweater that became so much a part of me that when spring came around again at last my friends didn't recognize me without it; they asked if I had had it surgically removed.

Woman and wool. Mated for life.

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
(To fit bust circumference of 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches)

shown in size Medium

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 34[38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58] inches
Length: 26[27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32] inches
Note on fit: The sizing reflects a generous amount of ease, allowing for one or more layers to be worn underneath. Assume a good 4 inches difference between body and garment; thus, the Medium size will hang about right over a 38-inch bust.

MATERIALS
Fiber:
Raw sheep fleece, preferably something substantial like Romney, 4-5 pounds. Optional: silk top for blending, 7-10 ounces.
or
Commercial carded fiber in a comparable blend, at least 30[33, 36, 38, 43, 45, 50] ounces. (See Sheep to Sweater for more detail on choosing and preparing fibers, estimating quantity, etc.)


Finished Yarn:
Wraps per inch: 15
Ply: 4
Drafting Method: Modified Long-Draw
Angle of twist: 35-40 degrees
Yardage used: 1520[1620, 1879, 1959, 2239, 2399, 2639]

	Spinning Tool: 30-inch Canadian Production Wheel Lazy Kate: One that will accommodate 4 bobbins, ideally at an angle slightly off the vertical If working from raw fleece: - flicker - drum carder

Commercial Yarn Alternative
KnitPicks Wool of the Andes [100% Peruvian Highland wool, 110 yd per 1.75 oz skein]; color: Onyx Heather or Cobblestone Heather, 14[15, 18, 18, 21, 22, 24] skeins;
or
Cascade Yarns 220 [100% Peruvian wool, 220 yd per 3.5 oz skein]; color: 8400, 7[8, 9, 9, 11, 11, 12] skeins.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 or 2 47-inch circular needle(s) in US #3/3.25mm
US #3/3.25mm needles for working in the round (DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars, as you prefer), for the sleeves

Tools
yarn needle
stitch markers
cable needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

SPINNING NOTES
(See Sheep to Sweater for much, much more detail on how to get into trouble in a fleece barn, and how to live with yourself afterward while planning and executing an ambitious sweater project.)

So as I said, Darrowby is a lot of sweater; in fact the prototype is just over two pounds of sweater, wrested from a 5-pound fleece that yielded approximately 60% usable wool.

In my case, I sorted and scoured the fleece, flicked it lock by lock (I am fanatical about this - I always find it pays off in the final result), then carded it into batts. I blended in a little black silk - about 10% by weight. (I'd say you could reasonably tweak that up to 20% without substantially altering the character of the garment; it would give you a smoother and shinier yarn with a slightly less rustic feel.)

I built this yarn much the same way I would if I were making sock yarn, because I wanted more or less the same qualities -- spring, density, and durability -- plus good stitch definition for the cables. So I spun the singles using a modified long-draw technique, drafting against twist but also smoothing the yarn as it formed. The result is a little closer to the woollen end of the spectrum than to the worsted, but it retains features of both. It gets its airy bouncy quality from the woollen prep and the drafting style, but the handling gives it a relatively smooth finish, not prone to pilling and shedding. I like a very rounded yarn, especially for cables, so I made a 4-ply, with plenty of twist; slightly more twist in the plying than the spinning, giving the finished yarn a little extra spring and strength without making it too hard.

KNITTING NOTES
Darrowby is worked top-down, all in one piece. You begin at the nape of the neck, building the cabled perpendicular shoulder yoke first to the left and then to the right; you pick up stitches along the selvedges, shape the superstructure with short rows, and then begin working downward toward the armscye, shaping the neck opening as you go. The body features faux side seams for added stability. The body and sleeves are finished with herringbone stitch and turned-under hems; then it's steeked. Then you work the band/collar in vertical ribbing, attaching it as you go by picking up stitches in the cut edge. The pockets are also attached as you build them; they run perpendicular to the body and are integrated, like the band, by means of picked-up stitches and decreases.

If the turning st is a knit st:
Work to turning st. With tip of right needle, lift the st directly below the turning st and place it on left needle; knit 1 st through this loop, pulling the base loop off left needle but leaving the original turning st on left needle. Slip the new st to left needle. The new st and the turning st are a shadow-pair that will be worked together when you come back to them. Turn work, wyif.

If the turning st is a purl st:
Work to turning st. Slip turning st; with tip of left needle lift the st directly below the turning st; purl 1 through this loop, pulling it off left needle. You now have a purled shadow-pair on right needle; slip this pair to left needle. Turn work, wyib.

K (or p) next st with its shadow: Work both sts of the shadow pair together, as a conventional decrease; if it is a knit pair, k2tog; if a purled pair, p2tog.

Picking Up and Working Stitches in Selvedges
To pick up and work stitches, insert working needle through both legs of the elongated selvedge stitch (back to front for purling, front to back for knitting), and pull a loop of yarn through to form the new stitch.
At corner transition points this process will twist an existing knit stitch into a purl stitch, or vice versa, and the next time you come back to that pivotal spot it will be necessary to unwork that stitch and re-work it as a knit stitch (or from knit to purl, when working on WS). This will be referred to as "flipping" a stitch.

Working Increases in Picked-up Row / Shoulder Selvedges
inc: wyib, insert right needle from front to back under running strand between picked-up sts; pull loop of yarn through to form stitch. 1 stitch increased.
inc-p: wyif, insert right needle from back to front under running strand between picked-up sts; pull loop of yarn through to form stitch. 1 stitch increased.

Other Increases
M1L: Make 1, Left-leaning: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R: Make 1, Right-leaning: Insert left needle, from back to front, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1L-p: Make 1 Purlwise, Left-leaning: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; purl this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R-p: Make 1 Purlwise, Right-leaning: Insert right needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; twist this stitch a half-turn to the right and purl it. 1 stitch increased.

Cable Crosses and Twists
C6R: Slip next 3 sts to cn and hold in back of work, k3; k3 from cn.
C6L: Slip next 3 sts to cn and hold in front of work, k3; k3 from cn.
C4R: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in back of work, k2; k2 from cn.
C4L: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in front of work, k2; k2 from cn.
T3/1R: Slip next st to cn and hold in back of work, k3; p1 from cn.
T3/1L: Slip next 3 sts to cn and hold in front of work, p1; k3 from cn.
T2/1R: Slip next st to cn and hold in back of work, k2; p1 from cn.
T2/1L: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in front of work, p1; k2 from cn.
CB2R: On RS: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k1-b; k1-b from cn. On WS: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, p1-b; p1-b from cn.
CB2L: On RS: Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, k1-b; k1-b from cn. On WS: Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, p1-b; p1-b from cn.
TB2R: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k1-b; p1 from cn.
TB2L: Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, p1; k1-b from cn.

Knitting On Cast-On tutorial is here.

Backwards Loop Cast-On tutorial is here.

Latticed Diamond Cable Right/Left
This is substantially similar to the classic pattern of the same name that you'll find in Barbara G. Walker's invaluable stitch dictionary. I've tweaked it to add twists to the travelling stitches and made a mirrored version (also a halved version for the back yoke and a scaled-down ditto for the pocket). The differences between the mirrored versions appear only in rows 1, 12, and 16; in other respects the two are identical.
Notes:
- When working this pattern or the half-width version along the shoulder yoke, slip the first stitch in every row.
- When working this pattern or the half-width version along the front edges and shaping the neckline, slip every selvedge stitch, wyib on RS, wyif on WS.

Ringlet Stitch
Worked in the round on 2 sts.
Round 1: P2, slip these 2 back to ln, yarn to back, slip the same 2 sts back to rn.
Round 2: K2.
Repeat these 2 rounds.
Note: I use a shortcut for working this stitch. Instead of slipping the stitches back and forth, I take a slack part of the working yarn from behind the hand carrying it (i.e. closer to the ball of yarn) and loop it over the rn so it passes from front to back, then purl the 2 sts normally. I then release the working yarn to the front and pull back where the yarn passes behind the 2 sts, taking up the slack; this then becomes the working yarn. This is much quicker and easier to work than it is to describe, and it's more practical for a continental knitter than an English-style one.

Little Herringbone
Worked in the round on multiple of 2 sts
Round 1: *K2tog but only pull the first of the 2 sts off left needle, rep from * until 1 st left, k1.
Round 2: *K2tog tbl but only pull the first of the 2 sts off left needle, rep from * until 1 st left, k1.
Repeat these 2 rounds.

A Note on Marker Usage
I've placed stitch markers to indicate both increase/decrease locations and pattern/plain section demarcations; the function of each marker is stipulated as needed when it appears in the text. In working the superstructure and armscye shaping of this sweater you may find it helpful to differentiate further between marker types; for example, if you have markers in two distinct styles or colors, use one kind for the pattern panel edges and the neckline, the other to indicate armscye shaping. The slipping of markers is not explicitly included in the directions EXCEPT where needed to clarify the relationship between marker and increase/decrease; in all other cases it is assumed that you will slip each marker as you come to it.

DIRECTIONS

All sizes: 65[69, 75, 79, 85, 89, 95] sts on back.

This completes top of back shaping and brings you to the right shoulder.
Slip any remaining sts from holder to needles as necessary. 169[179, 185, 195, 203, 211, 219] sts total.

Continuing in the same direction: flip next st from purl to knit, leaving it on left needle, work the next row of Latticed Diamond Cable Right; k to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Diamond Cable Right.
Note: From this point until you finish the armscye you are going to be working four instances of Latticed Cable Diamond in each row - to the right on right front, to the right on right sleeve/shoulder, to the left on left sleeve/shoulder, and to the left on left front. Be aware that the patterning on the sleeves will not be in sync with the patterning on the fronts. The fronts should be in sync with each other, however, and so should the shoulders.

Next row [WS]: Work Latticed Diamond Cable Right, p to 1 before pattern marker, work Latticed Diamond Cable Right, p to 2 before next pattern marker, p next st with its shadow, flip next st from knit to purl, leaving it on left needle, work Latticed Diamond Cable Left, p to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Diamond Cable Left.
This completes the yoke/superstructure.

Notes on the Armscye and Neckline Shaping
In the next row you will begin two increase patterns; the one that shapes the neckline and the one that shapes the armscyes. The two increase sequences do not work in sync with each other: The paired neckline increases occur every 16[11, 8, 7, 7, 5, 5] rows (so in some cases they will be worked on WS); the sets of 4 armscye increases occur in every RS row. Happily, however, they all end more or less at the same time.

The armscye is shaped in three stages - the first 2 sets of increases add stitches to the body circumference; then the line of increases changes directions and adds stitches to the sleeve circumference; another change of directions adds stitches to the body and forms the underarm curve - a total of 24[28, 32, 35, 38, 40, 43] sets of armscye increases. At the same time you'll be working a total of 4[6, 9, 11, 12, 17, 18] sets of neckline increases. Both armscye and neckline increases begin in Row 1.

Armscye/Neckline Shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1 tbl, m1L, k to pattern marker, m1R, sm, work sts 2-23 of Latticed Cable Diamond Left, sm, m1L, k across back to next pattern marker, m1R, sm, work sts 2-23 of Latticed Cable Diamond Right, sm, m1L, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, k1 tbl, work sts 2-23 of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 6 sts added -- these are the first neckline and armscye increases.

Row 2 [WS]: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to 1 before pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to 1 before pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left.

Row 3 [RS]: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to pattern marker, sm, m1R, work sts 2-23 of Latticed Cable Diamond Left, m1L, sm, k across back to pattern marker, sm, m1R, work sts 2-23 of Latticed Cable Diamond Right, m1L, sm, k to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right. 4 sts added.

Row 4 [WS]: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left.

Row 5 [RS]: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to pattern marker, place armscye marker, m1R, slip pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, slip pattern marker, m1L, place armscye marker, k to pattern marker, place armscye marker, m1R, slip pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, slip pattern marker, m1L, place armscye marker, k to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right. 4 sts added.

From here, work four armscye increases in every RS row and the two paired neckline increases every 16[11, 8, 7, 7, 5, 5] rows, until 32[36, 44, 46, 50, 54, 58] rows have been worked, as follows:

RS Armscye ONLY increase rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, sm, m1R, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, m1L, sm, k to armscye marker, sm, m1R, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to armscye marker, m1L, sm, k to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right. 4 sts added.

RS Neckline & Armscye Increase Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1 tbl, m1L, k to armscye marker, sm, m1R, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, m1L, sm, k to armscye marker, sm, m1R, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to armscye marker, m1L, sm, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 6 sts added.

WS Even Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left.

WS Neckline Increase Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right to neckline marker, p1 tbl, m1R-p, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 1 before neckline marker, m1L-p, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Left row. 2 sts added. 237[259, 285,301, 319, 341, 359] sts.

In this section the increases forming the armscye continue, but they change direction; the neckline increases continue as before without interruption. You will work a total of 8[10, 10, 12, 13, 13, 14] more sets of armscye increases. Note that for Size XS only, the first row of this sequence includes increases for both neckline and armscye.

Next row [RS] (Size XS only): Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1, m1L, k to 1 st before armscye marker, slip 1, remove marker, slip st back to left needle, m1R, place marker, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, m1L, k to 1 st before next armscye marker, slip 1, remove marker, slip st back to left needle, m1R, place marker, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to next armscye marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, m1L, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 6 sts added.

Next row [RS] (all other sizes): Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to 1 st before armscye marker, slip 1, remove marker, slip st back to left needle, m1R, place marker, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, m1L, k to 1 st before next armscye marker, slip 1, remove marker, slip st back to left needle, m1R, place marker, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to next armscye marker, remove marker, k1, place marker, m1L, k to 2 sts before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right. 4 sts added.

Work, continuing the increase repeats -- armscye increases every RS row, neckline increases every 16[11, 8, 7, 7, 5, 5] rows (although using the new armscye increase placements as below) until Row 48[56, 64, 70, 77, 80, 86] is complete.

WS Even Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 2 sts before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left.

WS Neckline Increase Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Right to neckline marker, p1, m1R-p, p to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, p to next pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, p to 1 before neckline marker, m1L-p, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Left row. 2 sts added.

RS Armscye ONLY increase rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to next armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to 2 sts before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right. 4 sts added.

RS Neckline & Armscye Increase Rows: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1, m1L, k to armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to next armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 6 sts added.

Continue in pattern as setuntil Row 48[56, 64, 70, 78, 80, 86] is complete. 271[303, 329, 355, 381, 403, 427] sts.

Next Row [RS] (Sizes XS, and 2X ONLY): Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1, m1L, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to next pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 2 sts added.

Next Row [RS] (Sizes S, 1X, and 3X ONLY): Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to next pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to 2 before neckline marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right.

Next Row [RS] (Sizes M and L ONLY): Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left to neckline marker, k1, m1L, k to armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to next armscye marker, m1R, sm, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to armscye marker, sm, m1L, k to 1 before neckline marker, m1R, work balance of Latticed Cable Diamond Right row. 6 sts added.

273[303, 335, 361, 381, 405, 427] sts.

Cast On the Steek and Begin Working in the Round
Using the Knitting On Cast On or the Backwards Loop Cast-On, CO 4. 277[307, 339, 365, 385, 409, 431] sts.

Place marker for start of round. Join and begin working in the round. This first round corresponds to an even-numbered row, what used to be a WS row.
As you reach them in the first round, remove the left-side neckline marker, and shift the right-side neckline marker 2 sts to the right - it now becomes a pattern marker only.
Work one round: Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to pattern marker, Work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Right, work 4 sts Seed St.

Divide for Sleeves
Next round: work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to armscye marker, thread 52[56, 64, 66, 70, 74, 78] sleeve sts to waste yarn until you reach next armscye marker ; using waste yarn and Provisional Cast-On, CO 16[18, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28]; continuing with working yarn, k into first 7[8, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13] of these sts, place side-seam marker, k remaining 9[10, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15]; k to armscye marker, thread 52[56, 64, 66, 70, 74, 78] sleeve sts to waste yarn until you reach next armscye marker; using waste yarn and Provisional Cast-On, CO 16[18, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28]; k to pattern marker, work Latticed Cabled Diamond Right, work 4 sts Seed St. 205[231, 255, 281, 293, 313, 331]

Left Sleeve
Transfer the 52[56, 64, 66, 70, 74, 78] sleeve stitches from the waste yarn to a needle, placing a marker at the leading edge of the Latticed Cable Diamond Cable Left pattern. Unzip the 16[18, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28] Provisional Cast-On at the underarm, and transfer these stitches to the needle, placing a marker for the start of round at the center of the underarm, in the spot corresponding to the middle of the line of Ringlet stitch down the body.  68[74, 86, 90, 94, 100, 106] sts.

Join yarn and begin working sleeve in the round.

Sleeve Round: K to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to end of round.

Work even for 15[16, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17] rounds.

Decrease round 1: K to pattern marker, work Latticed Cable Diamond Left, k to 3 sts before underarm marker, ssk, k1. 1 st decreased.
Decrease round 2: K1, k2tog, work even to end of round. 1 st decreased.
Work 8[7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 3] rounds even.
Repeat these last 10[9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 5] rounds 7[8, 9, 12, 14, 16, 18] more times. 52[56, 66, 64, 64, 66, 68] sts.

Work even for another 22[24, 28, 21, 25, 33, 26] rounds.

Sleeve Hem
Round 1: Purl.
Rounds 2-6: Work Little Herringbone Stitch around.
Round 7, turning round: Purl.
Rounds 8-12: Knit.

Break yarn, leaving a tail at least 3 feet long. Thread tail on tapestry needle; turn the hem under at the purl round, and use the yarn tail to stitch the live stitches to the fabric.

Right Sleeve
Work as left sleeve, substituting Latticed Cable Diamond Right for Latticed Cable Diamond Left.

Band/Collar
Cut the steek, straight up the middle (the seed stitch provides a clean cutting line).

The band/collar is a long wide band of 1x1 Twisted Rib (k1 tbl, p1 tbl) that begins at the bottom inside edge of the right front and runs parallel to the fabric of the sweater, attaching around the cut edge of the front at the end of every odd-numbered row; when it reaches the yoke it curves around the neck, then follows on down the inside edge of the left front until it reaches the bottom edge and is bound off. The attach points are worked into every other row of the sweater fabric as you work up the steek, by picking up and working a stitch through the fabric and then decreasing it out, capturing the cut edge in the process.

Using the long-tail cast-on, CO 29.
Row 1 [RS]: [K1 tbl, p1 tbl] to last st, sl 1 pwise wyib, pick up and knit 1 st through edge of sweater fabric by inserting needle between the two stockinette sts at the near edge of the cable panel and pulling a loop of working yarn through, work an ssk through the slipped st and the new st.

Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1 pwise wyif, [k1 tbl, p1 tbl] to end.

Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 pwise wyib, [k1 tbl, p1 tbl] to last st, pick up and knit 1 st through edge of sweater fabric 2 rows up from the previous attachment, by inserting needle between the two stockinette sts at the near edge of the cable panel and pulling a loop of working yarn through, work an ssk through the slipped st and the new st.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for band until you get to the top of the cut steek.

At this point, the edge of the front begins to curve back toward the yoke; to adjust for the angle make your next two attach points closer to each other, in consecutive rows instead of every other row.
From this point forward you are working with a selvedge instead of a cut edge, but you will continue to pick up stitches as before between the two stockinette stitches at the edge of the cable panel.

Go back to picking up sts every other row until you reach the shoulder yoke. For the next few rows, until you reach the turning point at the back of the neck, you'll be working perpendicular to the sweater fabric instead of parallel; adjust your attach ratio accordingly so the fabric of the band continues to lie flat next to that of the sweater. At the turning point, work your next three attach points in consecutive rows, to create ease at the turn.

You're now working parallel to the fabric again, going across the back of the neck and attaching into the uppermost edge of the back yoke. Continue picking up every other row until the turning point; At the turning point, work your next three attach points in consecutive rows, to create ease at the turn Continue working down the left side, Work parallel down to the turning point. At the turning point, work your next two attach points in consecutive rows; then work parallel down to the bottom edge, working attach points every other row. When you reach the lower edge, BO in pattern.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Trim any straggly ends from the cut edges of the steek, and fulling them a little first if necessary; if you wash the sweater in hot water before blocking, you can use a little extra soap and apply a little friction to any spots that appear vulnerable.

Having survived several overlapping careers in the performing arts, a stint as a computer consultant and another as a culinary historian, Lisa Grossman has returned to her early passion for textiles and been reborn as the Tsarina of Tsocks. She brings all of the above - plus the kitchen sink and a huge pile of knitted leaves - to her crazy-making creations, which can be found here, as well as on the feet and needles of many notable knitting cognoscenti.

Taught by her mother and inspired by the independence of Elizabeth Zimmermann, Lisa has been knitting for nearly half a century; she vaguely remembers following a pattern once, before striking out into her own road-less-traveled tbly. She teaches her "Art for your Feet" brand of inspired lunacy, most recently at Sock Summit 2011. She is the surviving co-author of Lobscouse & Spotted Dog (which one critic called "the only cookbook that will ever find a place on my nightstand"), and has written for Tin House Literary Quarterly, Napoleon Journal, the New York Times, Spindlicity, and KnittySpin. Her door is always open in the Tsock Flock group on Ravelry.