by Ann Weaver

"When all the preliminaries were over and Peleg had got everything ready for signing, he turned to me and said, 'I guess, Quohog there doesn't know how to write, does he? I say, Quohog, blast ye! dost thou sign thy name or make thy mark?'"
—Melville, Moby–Dick, Chapter 18, "His Mark"

Queequeg (whose name Peleg conflates with the name of a type of large clam native to the eastern shores of North America, the quohog), the tattooed harpooner on the Pequod, makes his mark -- "a queer round figure which was tattooed upon his arm" -- on his contract.

In this warm, rustic, seaworthy sweater, I've represented different marks reminiscent of signature Xs and graphic tattoos.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size XS with 3 inches of positive ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 34.25[39.75, 44.5, 47.75, 53, 55.5, 60.5] inches
Length: 32.5[32.5, 33, 33, 33, 34.25, 34.25] inches, including collar

Note: Cardigan is meant to fit with 3 to 5 inches of positive ease to allow layering.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Fancy Tiger Crafts Heirloom Romney [100% wool; 200 yd/183m per 112g skein];
[MC] Elderberry; 5[6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10] skeins
[CC1] Mullein; 1[2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] Bee Balm; 1 skein
[CC3] Hubbard; 1 skein
[CC4] Carrot; 1 skein

Woolfolk Får [100% Merino; 142 yd/130m per 50g skein]
[CC5] Cream; 1 skein

Note: CC5 is used only for the collar facing. Feel free to use any soft worsted-weight yarn from your stash if you wish to substitute.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles
US #8/5mm circular needles, 16- and 32-inch lengths

1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles or one size smaller than size needed to obtain gauge
US #7/4.5mm 32-inch circular needle or one size smaller than size needed to obtain gauge
US #6/4mm 16-inch circular needle or two sizes smaller than size needed to obtain gauge
Size US G-6/4mm crochet hook (for crocheting steek)

Notions
5 stitch markers, 2 in a second color to indicate beg of rnds
yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The body and sleeves are worked in the round to the underarms, then they are joined before working the yoke. After reinforcing the edges of the front steek, the sweater is cut open to create a cardigan.

If you're using Heirloom Romney or a similar rustic, "sticky" yarn like the Fancy Tiger Heirloom Romney I've used, you can crochet your steeks. Here’s a tutorial for crocheted steeks. I crocheted the steeks on this cardigan, and there is no sign of unravelling!

Here's a clear, step-by-step tutorial on sewn steeks. I recommend sewing your steeks if you are using a wool blend or superwash wool.

Each rnd of Body and Yoke begins after center front steek.

At the correct row gauge, Body measures 15 inches from top of ribbed hem to underarm, and Sleeve measures 17.5 inches from top of ribbed cuff to underarm. Adjust length of ribbing to suit desired length or differences in gauge.

Charts are worked in St st unless otherwise noted, joining and breaking yarns as required

Due to length, Body Chart is split into two parts to fit on page.

When Body Chart is worked in MC only, continue in MC only across steek and sleeve increase section.

Work sleeve increases into alternating color pattern.

This yarn will benefit from a vigorous wet blocking!  With the wet blocking, the yarn will bloom and soften without shrinking.

DIRECTIONS
BODY
Using MC and smaller 32-inch or longer circular needle, CO 42[49, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74] sts for Left Front, place marker 1 (m1) to indicate side "seam"; CO 82[96, 110, 118, 132, 137, 149] sts for Back, place marker 2 (m2) to indicate side "seam" (m2); CO 42[49, 54, 58, 64, 68, 74] sts for Right Front, place marker (m3), CO 5 sts for steek panel, pm of second color to indicate beg of rnd (m4). Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. 171[199, 223, 239, 265, 278, 302] sts total.

Rib rnd: [P2, k2] to 2 sts before m3, p2, sl m, k5.

Rep last rnd until piece measures 4 inches from CO edge. Change to larger 32-inch or longer circular needle.

Knit 1 rnd, inc 3[1, 3, 0, 0, 0, 2] sts evenly spaced between m1 and m2 for Back. 174[200, 226, 239, 265, 278, 304] sts total.

Knit 1 rnd more.

Begin Body Chart and Steek Chart:
Rnd 1: Work Rnd 1 of Body Chart, working 13-st repeat 13[15, 17, 18, 20, 21, 23] times to m3, work Rnd 1 of Steek Chart to end.

Cont in patt as set for 75 rnds more, ending after Rnd 76 of Body Chart.

Rnd 77: Following Rnd 77 of Body Chart, *patt to 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] sts before next m, BO next 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts (removing marker); rep from * once more, patt to end. Do not cut MC. Set body aside while working sleeves. 37[44, 48, 52, 57, 61, 66] sts for each Front; 75[87, 101, 106, 118, 123, 135] sts for Back.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Using MC and smaller DPNs, CO 40 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Pm of second color to indicate beg of rnd.

Rib rnd: [K2, p2] around.
Rep this rnd until piece measures 2 inches from CO edge. Change to larger DPNs.

Knit 1 rnd.

Next rnd: K2tog, knit to end of rnd. 39 sts.

Begin Sleeve Chart:
Rnd 1: Work Rnd 1 of Sleeve Chart, working 13-st repeat three times in total.

Cont in patt as set for 12 rnds more, ending after Rnd 13 of chart.

Begin Body Chart and Sleeve Increases:
Rnd 1: Work Rnd 1 of Body Chart to end of rnd, working 13-st repeat three times in total, pm, M1 with CC1 (for sleeve increase section), sl m. 40 sts.

Rnd 2: Work Body Chart to m, sl m, k1 with CC1.

Cont in patt as est for 4[4, 2, 2, 1, 1, 0] round(s) more.

Next rnd: Work Body Chart to m, sl m, M1R with MC, k1 with CC1, M1L with MC. 42 sts: 3 sts between markers for sleeve increase section.

Next rnd: Work Body Chart to m, sl m, k1 with MC, k1 with CC, k1 with MC.
Note: The last rnd sets the alternating MC and CC pattern for sleeve increase section between markers (see Pattern Notes).

Cont in Body Chart and sleeve increase section pattern as est for 5[5, 3, 3, 2, 2, 0] rnds more.

Inc rnd: Work Body Chart to m, sl m, M1R in patt, patt to end, M1L in patt. 2 sts inc’d.
Work 5[5, 4, 4, 3, 2, 2] rnds even in patt.
Rep Inc rnd.
Work 6[6, 4, 4, 3, 3, 2] rnds even in patt.
Rep last 13[13, 10, 10, 8, 7, 6] rnds 2[3, 5, 5, 7, 4, 11] times more, then rep Inc rnd 0[1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0] time more. 54[60, 66, 68, 74, 64, 90] sts.

Size 2X Only:
Work 3 rnds even in patt.

Rep Inc rnd.
Cont in Body Chart and sleeve increase section pattern as est for 2 rnds more.
Rep last 3 rnds 9 times more.

All Sizes:
54[60, 66, 68, 74, 84, 90] sts.

Work even in patt for 16[2, 5, 4, 5, 0, 0] rnd(s) more, ending after Rnd 76 of Body Chart.

Next rnd (Rnd 77 of Chart): Remove beg of rnd m, knit to m, remove m, k3[6, 8, 9, 11, 16, 17], BO next 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 17] sts. Place rem 44[50, 54, 56, 60, 70, 73] sleeve sts on holder.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Yoke
Return to Body sts and with MC, knit across 37[44, 48, 52, 57, 61, 66] sts of Right Front, knit across 44[50, 54, 56, 60, 70, 73] sts of first sleeve, knit to across Back sts, decreasing 2[4, 4, 3, 3, 0, 4] sts evenly across, knit across 44[50, 54, 56, 60, 70, 73] sts of second sleeve, knit across 37[44, 48, 52, 57, 61, 66] sts of Left Front, work steek. 240[276, 306, 324, 354, 390, 414] sts.

Begin Yoke Chart 1:
Next rnd: Work Yoke Chart 1 to m, working 6-st repeat 39[45, 50, 53, 58, 64, 68] times in total, work steek.
Cont in patt as est until 27 rnds of chart have been completed.

Dec rnd: With MC, k7[8, 8, 7, 7, 7, 7], (k1, k2tog) to 9[8, 8, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts before m, k7[6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6], k2tog 1[1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0] time, work steek. 166[190, 210, 222, 242, 266, 282] sts.

Begin Yoke Chart 2:
Next rnd: Work Yoke Chart 2 to m, working 4-st repeat 40[46, 51, 54, 59, 65, 69] times in total, work steek.
Cont in patt as est until first 14 rnds of chart have been completed.

Dec rnd (Rnd 15 of chart): With MC, (k2tog, k1) 0[0, 0, 1, 0, 0, 1] time, k2[2, 0, 0, 8, 0, 11], (k1[1, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2], k2tog) to 3[3, 5, 4, 9, 1, 15] sts before m, k3[3, 5, 1, 9, 1, 12], (k2tog, k1) 0[0, 0, 1, 0, 0, 1] time, work steek. 114[130, 170, 178, 198, 214, 218] sts.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X only:
Next rnd: Work Rnd 16 of Yoke Chart 2 to m, working 4-st repeat -[-, 41, 43, 48, 52, 53] times in total, work steek.
Cont in patt as est through Rnd -[-, 20, 20, 20, 25, 25] of Yoke Chart 2.

Begin Yoke Chart 3, All Sizes:
Next rnd: Work Yoke Chart 3 to m, working 4-st repeat 27[31, 41, 43, 48, 52, 53] times, work steek.

Cont in patt as est through Rnd 6 of chart. Work short rows to shape back of neck as follows:

With MC, k75[87, 107, 123, 138, 150, 151], w&t, p41[49, 49, 73, 83, 91, 89], w&t, knit to 5 sts before wrapped st, w&t, purl to 5 sts before wrapped st, w&t; rep from * once more, knit to end of rnd, knitting wraps together with wrapped sts.

Cont in patt as est (beginning with Rnd 7 of chart) through Rnd 27[27, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11] of chart, knitting wraps together with wrapped sts on Rnd 7.

Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X & 3X only:
Dec rnd (Rnd 12 of chart): Using MC, k-[-, 13, 8, 6, 0, 6], (k2tog) -[-, 0, 1, 0, 2, 0] time(s), (k -[-, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3], k2tog) to last -[-, 14, 8, 7, 5, 7] sts, k-[-, 12, 8, 7, 1, 7], (k2tog) -[-, 1, 0, 0, 2, 0] time(s). 114[130, 146, 146, 162, 170, 178] sts.

Cont in patt as est through Rnd 27 of chart.

Collar Facing, All Sizes:
Cut MC and join CC5. Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd. Change to smaller 16-inch circular needle. Knit every round until facing measures 4 inches. Bind off loosely.

FINISHING
Sew underarm seams.

Steeks
Reinforce and cut steeks (see Pattern Notes).

Steam steek edges toward WS of cardigan, and pin if desired. You will be picking up stitches for the front button bands along the outer edge stitches of the steek.

Front Bands
Before picking up front band sts, fold, steam, and pin collar facing sts toward WS of sweater. When picking up collar facing sts for bands, pick up facing st with body st and knit these sts together; the picked-up sts will hold the edge of the collar facing in place. Bands are worked in garter stitch.

Buttonhole Band
Note: The buttonholes are worked as part of the i-cord BO for the buttonhole band.

Using MC and long circular needle in larger size, with RS facing and beginning at lower right front corner, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along right front edge.

Knit 4 rows.

Use pins or waste yarn to mark positions of 7 buttons evenly spaced along right front edge.

Next row [WS]: [Knit to desired position of buttonhole, BO 2 sts] 7 times, knit to end. Do not turn.

Applied i-cord bind off: CO 3 sts at end of row. Turn so RS is facing.

*[K2, ssk. Slip these 3 sts back to LH needle, bringing yarn behind work] until only 3 i-cord sts remain before gap created by BO on previous row. [K3, slip these 3 sts back to LH needle] twice. Rep from * six times more. [K2, ssk. Slip these 3 sts back to LH needle, bringing yarn behind work] until only 3 i-cord sts rem. Cut yarn and draw through rem sts.

Buttonband
Using MC and long circular needle in larger size, with RS facing and beginning at upper left front corner, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along left front edge.

Knit 4 rows.
Use pins or waste yarn to mark positions of 7 buttons evenly spaced along right front edge.

Next row [WS]: [Knit to desired position of buttonhole, BO 2 sts] 7 times, knit to end. Do not turn.

Applied i-cord bind off: CO 3 sts at end of row. Turn so RS is facing. [K2, ssk. Slip these 3 sts back to LH needle, bringing yarn behind work] until only 3 i-cord sts rem. Cut yarn and draw through rem sts.

Collar Facing
Using MC, sew edge of each facing to WS of work, taking care to keep stitches loose.

Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes. Weave in all ends and wet block vigorously to measurements.

Ann Weaver is a copyeditor, bartender, server, and knitting instructor who lives in Baltimore. Since 2007, she has been designing handknits, including two self-published collections, White Whale Vol. I and White Whale Vol. II based on Moby–Dick, her favorite novel. His Mark is a continuation of this series of designs.

You can read more about Ann on her blog and her website. Her Ravelry name is weaverknits.