Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Title
beauty shot
Tangy

Helga is a cropped pullover inspired by the romance of the natural world. It is worked from the bottom up in pieces and seamed. Style the pullover with high-waisted jeans, a skirt, or your favorite pair of overalls. Make yourself a floral crown and go explore.

 

spacer model: Amanda Skinner, Emily Nora O'Neil
spacer photos: Amy Christoffers
 

SIZE
A[B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I]
shown in size B with 6 inches of positive ease,
2-6 inches positive ease recommended

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Finished Bust: 32[36, 40, 42.25, 46.25, 48.5, 52.5, 56.5, 58.5] inches
Length: 19[19, 19.5, 20, 20.5, 21, 21, 21.5, 22] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Blackstone Tweed [65% wool, 25% mohair, 10% angora; 130 yds/119 m per 50g ball]; color: Steamers #2602; 7[8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer Pair of US #5/3.75mm needles
spacer Pair of US #7/4.5mm needles
spacer 16-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle

Notions
spacer cable needle
spacer 4 stitch markers
spacer yarn needle

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GAUGE
16 sts and 24 rows = 4 inches in Double Seed Stitch on larger needles
30 sts = 5.5 inches over Chart 2 on larger needles
15 sts = 3.5 inches over Charts 1 and 3 on larger needles

 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

If necessary, maintain Chart 2 pattern when working neck shaping, keeping as many stitches as possible in pattern.

Bobble: Knit into front, back, and front of stitch. Turn. P3, turn. Sl 1, k2tog, psso.

C2BT: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k1tbl; p1 from cn.

C2FT: Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, p1; k1tbl from cn.

C2BP: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k1; p1 from cn.

C2FP: Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, p1; k1 from cn.

C2B: Sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k1; k1 from cn.

C2F: (RS) Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, k1; k1 from cn.
(WS): Sl 1 to cn and hold in front, p1; p1 from cn.

Double Seed Pattern (multiple of 4 sts)
Row 1 [RS]: *P2, k2, rep from * across.
Row 2 [WS]: *K2, p2, rep from * across.
Rep last 2 rows for patt.

K1, P1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts + 1):
Row 1 [RS]: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: (P1, k1) to last st, p1.
Rep last 2 rows for patt.

Chart 1 (worked over 15 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: P1, C2B, p9, C2B, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Row 3: P1, C2B, p4, k1tbl, p4 C2B, p1.
Row 4: K1, p2, k4, p1tbl, k4, p2, k1.
Row 5: P1, C2B, p3, k3tbl, p3, C2B, p1.
Row 6: K1, p2, k3, p3tbl, k3, p2, k1.
Row 7: P1, C2B, p2, C2BT, k1tbl, C2FT, p2, C2B, p1.
Row 8: K1, p2, k2, (p1tbl, k1) twice, p1tbl, k2, p2, k1.
Row 9: P1, C2B, p1, C2BT, p1, k1tbl, p1, C2FT, p1, C2B, p1.
Row 10: K1, p2, k1, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl, k1, p2, k1.
Row 11: P1, C2B, p4, k1tbl, p4, C2B, p1.
Rows 12, 14 & 16: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Row 13: P1, C2B, p4, bobble, p4, C2B, p1.
Row 15: P1, C2B, p3, bobble, p1, bobble, p3, C2B, p1.
Row 17: P1, C2B, p4, bobble, p4, C2B, p1.
Row 18: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Rep Rows 1-18 for patt.

Chart 2 (multiple of 6 sts + 12):
Row 1 [RS]: *P1, C2BP, C2FP, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 [WS]: *K1, p1, k2, p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 3: *C2BP, p2, C2FP; rep from * to end.
Row 4: P1, k4, C2F (WS), *k4, C2F (WS); rep from * to last 5 sts, k4, p1.
Row 5: *C2FP, p2, C2BP; rep from * to end.
Row 6: *K1, p1, k2, p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 7: *P1, C2FP, C2BP, p1; rep from * to end.
Row 8: *K2, C2F, k2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Chart 3 (worked over 15 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: P1, C2F, p9, C2F, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Row 3: P1, C2F, p4, k1tbl, p4, C2F, p1.
Row 4: K1, p2, k4, p1tbl, k4, p2, k1.
Row 5: P1, C2F, p3, k3tbl, p3, C2F, p1.
Row 6: K1, p2, k3, p3tbl, k3, p2, k1.
Row 7: P1, C2F, p2, C2BT, k1tbl, C2FT, p2, C2F, p1.
Row 8: K1, p2, k2, (p1tbl, k1) twice, p1tbl, k2, p2, k1.
Row 9: P1, C2F, p1, C2BT, p1, k1tbl, p1, C2FT, p1, C2F, p1.
Row 10: K1, p2, k1, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl, k2, p1tbl, k1, p2, k1.
Row 11: P1, C2F, p4, k1tbl, p4, C2F, p1.
Rows 12, 14 & 16: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Row 13: P1, C2F, p4, bobble, p4, C2F, p1.
Row 15: P1, C2F, p3, bobble, p1, bobble, p3, C2F, p1.
Row 17: P1, C2F, p4, bobble, p4, C2F, p1.
Row 18: K1, p2, k9, p2, k1.
Rep Rows 1-18 for patt.

chart

DIRECTIONS
Back
With smaller needles, cast on 77[85, 93, 99, 107, 113, 121, 129, 135] sts.

Work in K1, P1 rib for 3 inches, ending after a RS row.

Next row [WS]: (P1, k1) to last 3 sts, ssk, p1. 76[84, 92, 98, 106, 112, 120, 128, 134] sts.

Change to larger needles.

Begin chart patterns:
Row 1 [RS]: Work Row 1 of Double Seed Stitch over 8[12, 16, 16, 20, 20, 24, 28, 28] sts, pm, work Row 1 of Chart 1 over next 15 sts, pm, work Row 1 of Chart 2 over next 30[30, 30, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42, 48] sts, pm, work Row 1 of Chart 3 over next 15 sts, pm, work Row 1 of Double Seed Stitch to end.

Cont in Double Seed Stitch and chart patterns as established until piece measures 10.5 inches from cast-on or desired length to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes:
Cont in patt, BO 4[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 12] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 68[72, 78, 84, 90, 94, 102, 108, 110] sts.

Dec Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Next row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 2[4, 6, 6, 8, 9, 12, 13, 13] times more. 62[62, 64, 70, 72, 74, 76, 80, 82] sts.

Work even in patt until Rows 1-18 of Charts 1 and 3 have been completed a total of 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6] times.

Continue if necessary in Double Seed Stitch and Chart 2 as set, discontinuing working Charts 1 and 3 and working in reverse stockinette stitch (purl on RS, knit on WS) over each set of these 15 sts instead while maintaining 2-st cables either side of chart, until armholes measure 7.5[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders:
Keeping patt, BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts at beg of next 4 rows, then BO 3[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts at beg of foll 2 rows. BO remaining 40[40, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 44] sts for back neck.

FRONT
Work as for Back until armhole measures 5[5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 8] inches, ending after a WS row. 62[62, 64, 70, 72, 74, 76, 80, 82] sts. Place removable markers either side of center 28[28, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32, 32, 32] sts to mark each end of neck.

Shape neck:
Next row [RS]: Patt to first removable neck marker, join new ball of yarn and BO center 28[28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32] sts, patt to end. 17[17, 18, 21, 21, 22, 22, 24, 25] sts each side.

Note: Both sides of neck are now worked at the same time with separate balls of yarn. Instructions for each side are separated by a semi-colon (;) where necessary.

Next row [WS]: Work even in patt.

Next row [RS]: Patt to 3 sts before end of first side, p2tog, p1; p1, ssp, patt to end. 1 st dec'd each side.
Rep last 2 rows 5 times more. 11[11, 12, 15, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19] sts remain for each side.

Work even if necessary until armholes measures 7.5[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches, ending after a WS row.

Shape shoulders:
Next 4 rows: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts, patt to end.
Next row [RS]: BO rem 3[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts of first side, patt across second side.
Next row [WS]: BO rem 3[3, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts.

SLEEVES
With smaller needles, CO 37[37, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 41, 41] sts.

Work in K1, P1 rib for 3 inches, ending after a RS row.
Next row [WS]: (P1, k1) to last 3 sts, ssk, p1. 36[36, 36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40] sts.

Change to larger needles.

Work even in Double Seed Stitch until sleeve measures 4 inches from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Inc Row [RS]: K1, M1L, patt to last st, M1R, k1. 2 sts inc.

Work even in patt for 15[13, 9, 7, 7, 7, 7, 5, 5] rows, working increased sts into patt.

Rep last 16[14, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6] rows 4[5, 7, 8, 9, 8, 9, 11, 13] times more. 46[48, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 64, 68] sts.

Work even in patt if necessary until sleeve measures 18 inches from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Shape cap:
Keeping in patt, BO 4[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 12] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 38[36, 38, 40, 40, 40, 42, 44, 44] sts.

Work 2 rows even in patt.

Dec Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Work even in patt for 3 rows.
Rep last 4 rows 0[1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 7] times more. 36[32, 32, 32, 30, 28, 30, 32, 28] sts.

Rep Dec row.
Work 1 row even in patt.
Rep last 2 rows 10[8, 7, 7, 6, 5, 5, 6, 3] times more. 14[14, 16, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20] sts.

BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. BO rem 10[10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16] sts.

spacerschematic

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block pieces to measurements. Join shoulders.

Neckband:
With RS facing, using circular needle, and beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 12 sts along left front neck edge, 28[28, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32] sts across front neck edge, 12 sts along right front neck edge, then 40[40, 40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 44] sts across back neck edge. Join to work in the rnd and pm for beg of rnd. 92[92, 92, 92, 96, 96, 100, 102, 104] sts.

Rib rnd: (K1, p1) around.
Rep this rnd until neckband measures 1 inch from pick-up. Bind off loosely in rib patt.

Set in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in any remaining ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Emily was born where the mountains meet the sea in Maine. Much of her work is inspired by childhood memories, paintings, and the landscape that surrounds her. She is the assistant designer at Berroco and lives in Providence, RI. She can usually be found obsessively knitting or searching for treasures along the beach.

She's also on Ravelry.

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