by Jessica W. Leigh

I've had the good fortune to spend my holidays in central Europe twice. As I was knitting these mittens, I kept finding myself thinking of the specific traditions of the area I visited in Germany: candied nuts, mulled wine, and roasted chestnuts.

These mittens are knit in brioche stitch with cables flickering their way across the backs like little flames. They're knitted in relatively fine yarn, but the brioche stitch makes them feel thick and warm.

I chose a possum-merino blend because the dark possum fiber adds depth to the stitch pattern and tends to reduce pilling – very useful for mittens! If you choose a fiery color, you too will be thinking of chestnut flames: Kastanienfeuer.

SIZE
Ladies' S[M, L]
(fits a 7[8, 9] inch circumference hand)
shown in size small

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Palm circumference: 8[9.25, 10.25] inches
Mitten length: 9.25[10.25, 11] inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Touch Yarns Possum Yarn[Merino 60%, possum fur 30%, silk 10%; 460 yd per 100 g skein]; color: 2013 Rust; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below — every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1.5/2.5mm for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars

Notions
2 cable needles or an extra set of double-point needles in a similar size
stitch markers (3)
scrap yarn/stitch holder
yarn needle

GAUGE
33 sts/45 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
26 sts/68 rounds = 4 inches in brioche stitch
30 sts/68 rounds = 4 inches in fire cable stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This pattern uses a tubular cast-on. The method I used is the long-tail tubular cast on. This tubular method can be a bit tricky to join in the round. You might find it's easier if you work the first round on fewer needles: I cast onto one needle, then carefully divide the stitches evenly over two needles to join and work the first round.

These mittens are worked in the round in brioche stitch. If you're new to brioche stitch, you might want to check out a tutorial online. The idea is to create a sort of 1x1 ribbing by working the knit stitches on one round, and the purl stitches on the next. However, you don't just ignore the unworked stitches: instead, you work a yarn over so that the yarn over lies on top of the unworked stitch from the previous round; the yarn over then gets worked together with the stitch on the next round.

Note that the top of the mitten is closed using the three needle bind off from the inside. You'll need to be very careful not to drop any stitches as you turn the mitt inside out. You might want to transfer the stitches to scrap yarn, turn it inside out, then place the stitches back on your needles!

brk (brioche knit): knit stitch together with its accompanying yo.
brp (brioche purl): purl stitch together with its accompanying yo.
yf sl1yo: sl1 wyif, then work a yo.
brcdd (brioche centered double decrease): sl2 (along with yo) as if to knit, knit next, pass 2 slipped sts over (2 sts decreased).
brssk (brioche left-leaning single decrease): slip 1 st and its yo knitwise, slip next st knitwise; insert the tip of the left needle from left to right into the fronts of those 2 sts and knit them tog. (1st decreased).
brk2tog (brioche right-leaning single decrease): knit the next 2 sts (along with the accompanying yo) together (1 st decreased).
brsssk (brioche left-leaning double decrease): sl1 as if to knit, k2tog (along with yo), pass slipped st over (2 sts decreased).
brk3tog (brioche right-leaning double-decrease): sl1 as if to knit, knit next, pass slipped st over. Slip stitch just worked back to the left-hand needle, then pass the second stitch on the left-hand needle over. Slip this stitch back to the right-hand needle (2 sts decreased).
brkyobrk: work brk1, yo, brk1 in the same stitch (2 sts increased).
brc3l (brioche left cable): sl1 onto a cn as if to purl and hold in front, sl next st as if to purl onto another cn and hold in back, brk next st, yf sl1yo st from back cn, brk st from front cn.
brc3r (brioche right cable): sl2 onto a cn as if to purl and hold in back, brk next st, sl left st from cn onto left-hand needle as if to purl, then hold cn in front. Yf sl1yo from left-hand needle, then brk from cn.

FIRE CABLE
Work from chart or written instructions as you prefer.
Worked over 25[29, 33] sts.

Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, (yf sl1yo, brc3l) 5[6, 7] times, yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo.
Round 2 (and all even-numbered rounds): (Brp1, yf sl1yo) 12[14, 16] times, brp1.
Rounds 3, 7, 9, 11, 15, 19, 21, 23: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) 12[14, 16] times, yf sl1yo.
Round 5: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times, (yf sl1yo, brc3l) 4[5, 6] times, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times, yf sl1yo.
Round 13: Yf sl1yo, brk1, (yf sl1yo, brc3r) 5[6, 7] times, yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo.
Round 17: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times, (yf sl1yo, brc3r) 4[5, 6] times, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times, yf sl1yo.
Round 24: As Round 5.

DIRECTIONS
Cuff (Left and Right)
CO 44[50, 58] sts using the long-tail tubular cast on method (see Notes). Distribute across your needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

Ribbing round: [P1, k1] around.
Work Ribbing as set for 24 rounds total.

Mitten Body & Thumb Gusset
Left Mitten only, Round 1 (transition): (P1, yf sl1yo) to last 4 sts, p1, place marker for start of thumb gusset, yf sl1yo, place marker for end of thumb gusset marker, p1, yf sl1yo, .

Right Mitten only, Round 1 (transition): P1, (yf sl1yo, p1) 13[15, 17] times, place marker for start of thumb gusset, yf sl1yo, place marker for end of thumb gusset, (p1, yf sl1yo) to end.

Round 2: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) around.

Round 3: (Brp1, yf sl1yo) around.

Rounds 2 and 3 set the basic brioche stitch pattern. You will continue in pattern as set throughout, for all parts of the mitten except where the Fire Cable and shaping is worked.

Left Mitten only, Round 4: Work Round 1 of Fire Cable, (brk1, yf sl1yo) to first marker, sm, brkyobrk, sm, yf sl1yo, brk1. 3 sts between markers for gusset.
Right Mitten only, Round 4: Work round 13 of Fire Cable, brk1, yf sl1yo to first marker, sm, brkyobrk, sm, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end. 3 sts between markers for gusset.

Round 5: Work next round of Fire Cable, yf sl1yo, (brp, yf sl1yo) to end.

Round 6: Work next round of Fire Cable, brk1, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end.

Repeat Rounds 5-6 2[2, 3] more times, and work Round 5 again.

Next round, increase: Work next round of Fire Cable, (brk1, yf sl1yo) to first marker, sm, brkyobrk, yf sl1yo, brkyobrk, sm, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end. 7 sts between markers.

Repeat Rounds 5-6 6[7, 7] more times, then work Round 5 again

Next round, increase: Work next round of Fire Cable, (brk1, yf sl1yo) to first marker, sm, brkyobrk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) to 1 st from second marker, brkyobrk, sm, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end. 11 sts between markers.

Repeat Rounds 5-6 6[7, 8] more times, then work Round 5 again.

Upper Hand
Round 1, separate thumb stitches: Work next round of Fire Cable, brk1, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to second marker; remove this marker, and slip the 11 sts of the thumb gusset that you just worked on scrap yarn (you'll reach the first marker, which you can remove); (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end of round.

Round 2: Work next round of Fire Cable, (yf sl1yo, brp1) to gap created in previous round; using the backwards loop method, CO 9[11, 11] sts; (brp1, yf sl1yo) to end. 52[60, 68] sts.

Round 3: Work next round of Fire Cable, (brk1, yf sl1yo) to newly CO sts, k1, (p1, k1) 4[5, 5] times, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end.

Round 4: Work next round of Fire Cable, (yf sl1yo, brp1) to thumb gusset gap, yf sl1yo, (p1, yf sl1yo) 4[5, 5] times, (brp1, yf sl1yo) to end.

Round 5: Work next round of Fire Cable, brk1, (yf sl1yo, brk1) to end.
Round 6: Work next round of Fire Cable, yf sl1yo, (brp1, yf sl1yo) to end.

Left Hand only: Repeat Rounds 5-6 until you have completed 4[5, 5] full repeats of the Fire Cable, and work Rounds 1-12 of the Fire Cable 1[0, 1] more time.

Right Hand only: Repeat Rounds 5-6 until you have completed 4[5, 5] full repeats of the Fire Cable (note that the first repeat began on Round 13: at this point you'll be on Round 12), and work Rounds 13-24 of the Fire Cable 1[0, 1] more time.

Mitten Top
Size S only:
Left Mitten only, Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 44 sts.
Right Mitten only, Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3l, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 44 sts.
Round 2: (Brp1, yf sl1yo) around.
Round 3: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) around.
Round 4: As Round 2.
Left Mitten only, Round 5: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 2 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 36 sts.
Right Mitten only, Round 5: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3l, yf sl1yo) 2 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 36 sts.
Round 6: As Round 2.

Go to All Sizes, below.

Size M only:
Left Mitten only, Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3l, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 8 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 52 sts.
Right Mitten only, Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 8 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 52 sts.
Round 2: (Brp1, yf sl1yo) around.
Round 3: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) around.
Round 4: As Round 2.
Left Mitten only, Round 5: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3l, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 44 sts.
Right Mitten only, Round 5: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 44 sts.
Round 6: As Round 2.
Round 7: As Round 3.
Round 8: As Round 2.
Round 9: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 36 sts.
Round 10: As Round 2.

Go to All Sizes, below.

Size L only:
Round 1: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 5 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 10 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 60 sts.
Round 2: (Brp1, yf sl1yo) around.
Round 3: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) around.
Round 4: As Round 2.
Round 5: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brc3r, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 8 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 52 sts.
Round 6: As Round 2.
Round 7: As Round 3.
Round 8: As Round 2.
Round 9: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 6 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 44 sts.
Round 10: As Round 2.
Round 11: As Round 3.
Round 12: As Round 2.
Round 13: Brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brc3l, yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 4 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 36 sts.
Round 14: As Round 2.

All Sizes
Round 1: (Yf sl1yo, brk1) around.
Round 2: (Brp1, yf sl1yo) around.
Round 3: Yf sl1yo, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 2 times, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 3 times, brsssk, yf sl1yo, (brk1, yf sl1yo) 2 times, brk3tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 2 times. 28 sts.
Round 4: As Round 2.

Round 5: As Round 1.
Round 6: As Round 2. At end of this round, sl1 wyib. This is the new start of round.

Round 7: Brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, brk1, brcdd, brk1, yf sl1yo, brsssk, yf sl1yo, brk3tog, yf sl1yo, brk1, brcdd. 16 sts.

Round 8: K1, (brp1, k1) 3 times, k2, (brp1, k1) 3 times, k1.

Bind off the remaining 16 sts from the inside using the three needle bind off method. (See Pattern Notes.)

Thumb
Return the 11 held thumb gusset sts to two needles. Rejoin yarn.

Round 1: Yf sl1yo, (brp1, yf sl1yo) 5 times; pick up and knit 9[10, 13] sts from the cast-on edge inside the thumb gusset. 20[21, 24] sts. Join for working in the round and distribute sts as you prefer.

Size S and L only - Round 2: Brk1, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 5 times, yf sl1yo, (k1, yf sl1yo) 4[-, 6] times.

Size M only: Pick up but do not k 1 more st from the cast-on edge inside the thumb gusset and place on left needle, ready to work it together with the first st from the previous round. 22 sts.
Round 2: Brk2tog, (yf sl1yo, brk1) 4 times, yf sl1yo, brssk, yf sl1yo, (k1, yf sl1yo) 4 times. 20 sts.

All sizes proceed:
Round 3: (Yf sl1yo, brp1) around.
Round 4: (Brk1, yf sl1yo) around.

Repeat Rounds 3-4 12[14, 16] more times, or until thumb measures 0.25 inches less than desired length, then work Round 3 again.

Decrease round 1: [Brk1, (p1, brk1) 3[3, 4] times, brcdd] twice 16[16, 20] sts.

Note: As this point, patterning transitions to ribbing. After each Decrease Round, the start of the round shifts over by one stitch.

To setup for next round, sl 1 ywib. This is the new start of round.

Next round: [P1, (k1, p1) 2[2, 3] times, cdd] twice. 12[12, 16] sts.

To setup for next round, sl 1 ywib. This is the new start of round.

Next round: [K1, (p1, k1) 1[1, 2] times, cdd] twice. 8[8, 12] sts.

Size L only: To setup for next round, sl 1 ywib. This is the new start of round.

Size L only, Final round: (P1, k1, p1, cdd) twice. 8 sts.

All sizes proceed:
Break working yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through remaining sts twice and pull tight to close the thumb.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block gently (note that yarn containing possum fur can get very fuzzy if blocked with hot water: use tepid water).

Jessica is a computer geek, lifelong knitter, and mother to two boys who will be taught to knit as soon as humanly possible.

She blogs here.