INTRODUCTION

Lena

by Ágústa Jónsdóttir

The Lena pullover is knitted with the Icelandic yarn Mosi Mjukull, a blend of alpaca and Icelandic wool. I am an Icelandic knitter and I base my work on the knitting tradition in Iceland where we normally knit with chunky wool. We always work in the round and we make the yoke circular. I am true to these tradtitions with this sweater.

When I was designing it, I wanted to make a simple Viking pattern, using both knit and purl. This is a techninque which came from the Swedish ladies of Bohus in the fifties. The texture is different when you add purl to the pattern, which is what I was looking for.

model: Margret Sol Adalsteinsdottir

photos: Ágústa Jónsdóttir

SIZE

XS[S,  M,  L,  1X,  2X,  3X]
shown in size M with no ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest:  30[34, 37.75, 42.25, 46, 50, 54] inches /  76[86.5, 96, 107.5, 117, 127, 137] cm
Length:  27.25[28.5, 29.75, 30.25, 31.5, 31.75, 31.75] inches/  69[72.5, 75.5, 77, 80, 80.5, 80.5] cm

MATERIALS

Gusta.is MOSA Mjukull [66% alpaca, 34% Icelandic wool; 85 yd/78 m per 50g skein]; color:
[MC] #1000 White;  8[9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 16] skeins
[CC1] #3100 Chocolate; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #4/3.5mm circular needle 32 inches/80 cm or longer 
1 set US #4/3.5mm needles for working small circumferences in the round 
1 US #7/4.5mm circular needle 32 inches/80cm or longer 
1 set US #7/4.5mm needles for working small circumferences in the round 

Notions
yarn needle

GAUGE

17 sts/24 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch and chart patterns on larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater is worked in the round on circular needles. Sleeves and lower body are first knitted as three seperate pieces. They are joined together and the yoke and finished as one piece.

Techniques:

• Kitchener stitch/grafting 

K2, P1 Rib (worked in the round; multiple of 3 sts)
Round 1: (K1, p1, k1) around.
Rep this round for patt.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

BODY
With smaller circ and MC, cast on 117[132, 147, 171, 186, 201, 222] sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and PM for beg of round.

Knit 1 round.

Work in K2, P1 rib for 2[, , , , , ] inches / 5[, , , , , ] cm.

Change to larger circ.

Next round: K 7[0, 4, 18, 16, 3, 22] , *M1, k 8[11, 11, 12, 16, 18, 22] ; rep from * 10[11, 12, 8, 9, 10, 7] times more. 128[144, 160, 180, 196, 212, 230] sts.

Work even in St st until work measures 16.5[17.75, 18.5, 19, 19.75, 19.75, 19.75] inches / 42[45, 47, 48.5, 50, 50, 50] cm from cast-on or until Body measures desired length to underarm, ending last round 3[3, 4, 3, 4, 4, 4] sts before end of round.

Set aside.

SLEEVES (make 2)
With smaller needles for working small circumference in the round and CC, cast on 33[33, 36, 39, 42, 42, 45] sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist, and PM for beg of round.

Knit 1 round.

Change to MC and work in K2, P1 rib until work measures 2.75 inches / 7 cm.

Change to larger needles for working small circumference in the round.

Next round: K 0[3, 0, 4, 2, 0, 1] , *M1, k 11[10, 9, 7, 10, 7, 11] ; rep from * 2[2, 3, 4, 3, 5, 3] times more. 36[36, 40, 44, 46, 48, 49] sts.

Work even in St st until work measures 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 3] inches / 10[10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 7.5] cm from cast-on edge.

Inc round: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, k1. 2 sts increased.
Knit 9[9, 9, 8, 6, 6, 5] rounds.
Rep last 10[10, 10, 9, 7, 7, 6] rounds 5[6, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11] times more, then rep Inc round once more. 50[52, 56, 62, 68, 72, 75] sts.

Work even in St st until work measures 16.5[17, 17.25, 17.75, 17.75, 18, 18] inches / 42[43, 44, 45, 45, 45.5, 45.5] cm, or until Sleeve measures desired length to underarm, ending last round 3[3, 4, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts before m. Break yarn.

Place next 7[7, 8, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts ( 3[3, 4, 3, 4, 4, 5] before m and 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts after m) on holder. 43[45, 48, 55, 60, 63, 65] sts rem for sleeve.

YOKE
Return to the Body. Place next next 7[7, 8, 7, 8, 9, 9] sts ( 3[3, 4, 3, 4, 4, 5] sts before m and 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 4] sts after m) on holder for underarm. PM for beg of round. With larger circ and using MC from Body, knit across 43[45, 48, 55, 60, 63, 65] sts of first sleeve, knit across next 57[65, 72, 83, 90, 97, 106] sts of Body for front, place next 7[7, 8, 7, 8, 9, 9] sts of Body on holder for underarm, knit across 43[45, 48, 55, 60, 63, 65] sts of second sleeve, knit across rem 57[65, 72, 83, 90, 97, 106] sts of Body for back. 200[220, 240, 276, 300, 320, 342] sts.

Knit 0[0, 0, 1, 4, 6, 5] round(s).

Size L only:
Next round: (K69, M1) 4 times. 280 sts.

Size 3X only:
Next round: (K169, k2tog) twice. 340 sts.

All Sizes:
Work Rounds 1-22 of Chart 1, working 20-st repeat 10[11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17] times across each round.

Dec round 1: With MC only, (k6, k2tog) 25[27, 30, 35, 37, 40, 42] times, k 0[4, 0, 0, 4, 0, 4] to end. 175[193, 210, 245, 263, 280, 298] sts.
Dec round 2: With MC only, (k5, k2tog) 25[27, 30, 32, 35, 40, 45] times, 0[2, 0, 0, 2, 0, 2] , k2tog 0[1, 0, 0, 1, 0, 1] time. 150[165, 180, 210, 225, 240, 255] sts.

Work Rounds 1-22 of Chart 2, working 15-st repeat 10[11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17] times across each round.

Dec round 3: With MC only, (k3, k2tog) around. 120[132, 144, 168, 180, 192, 204] sts.

Sizes M-3X Only:
Starting with Round -[-, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1] , work through Round 7 of Chart 3.

All Sizes:
Dec round 4: With MC only, (k2, k2tog) around. 90[99, 108, 126, 135, 144, 153] sts.
Knit 3 rounds in MC.
Dec round 5: With CC only, (k1, k2tog) around. 60[66, 72, 84, 90, 96, 102] sts.

Cut CC. Continue with MC only.

COLLAR
Change to smaller needles.

Sizes XS, S and M Only
Next round: M1, knit to last st, M1, K1. 62[66, 72, -, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X and 3X Only
Next round: K -[-, -, 4, 6, 0, 6] , *k2tog, k -[-, -, 6, 5, 4, 4] ; rep from * to end of round. -[-, -, 74, 78, 80, 86] sts.

All Sizes
Next round: (K1, p1) around.
Next round: (K2tog, yo) around.
Next round: Knit.
Next round: Purl.
Cast off loosely knitwise.

FINISHING

Join underarms using Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends.

Block to measurements.

A - Bust circumference: 30[34, 37.75, 42.25, 46, 50, 54] inches / 76[86.5, 96, 107.5, 117, 127, 137] cm
B - Body length: 16.5[17.75, 18.5, 19, 19.75, 19.75, 19.75] inches / 42[45, 47, 48.5, 50, 50, 50] cm
C - Yoke length (including collar): 10.75[10.75, 11.25, 11.25, 11.75, 12, 12] inches / 27.5[27.5, 28.5, 28.5, 30, 30.5, 30.5] cm
D - Collar circumference (unstretched): 14.5[16, 17.5, 17.5, 18.25, 18.75, 20.25] inches / 37[40.5, 44.5, 44.5, 46.5, 47.5, 51.5] cm
E - Upper arm circumference: 12[12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18] inches / 30.5[30.5, 33, 38, 40.5, 43, 45.5] cm
F - Sleeve length: 16.5[17, 17.25, 17.75, 17.75, 18, 18] inches / 42[43, 44, 45, 45, 45.5, 45.5] cm
*Measurements are given at gauge; the neck may stretch with wearing for a wider boat-neck-like finish as shown in sample.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Ágústa Jónsdóttir is the founder of the Icelandic knitting company Gustaknitting.  She has a degree in Molecular biology as well as an MBA, and worked in Business development for International Biotech and Pharmaceutical businesses for 15 years.  In 2007 she published a knitting book on mittens called Hlýjar hendur ("Warm Hands"),  which was a great success in Iceland and Norway. This was her first step towards becoming a professional knitter and designer. Ágústa has published two more knitting books since then. Gustaknitting focuses on making sustainable high quality wool yarns, and Ágústa works full time on creating designs and managing the business.

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Pattern & images © 2018 Ágústa Jónsdóttir. Contact Ágústa.