INTRODUCTION

Stellen

by Mary Hull (Kino Knits)

I used to knit patterned socks all the time – the busier and more complicated, the better. But after having kids, my knitting time shrank to stolen moments in a mostly brain-dead state, which meant lots of vanilla socks. With the Stellen socks, devised in the red-orange color that makes my heart race, I’m reclaiming my love of patterned, gorgeous, show-stopper socks.

Knit from the top down, Stellen showcases clean lines of mock cabled lace that flow down the front of the leg and top of the foot. The mock cable technique and eyelets are also featured on the back of the leg and heel flap with a simple 4-row repeat. Sizing variations are hidden in reverse stockinette panels.

photos: Mary Hull

SIZE

Adult XS[S, M, L, XL]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot circumference: 7[7.625, 8, 8.625, 9.25] inches/ 17.75[19.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5] cm
Leg length: adjustable
Foot length: adjustable

MATERIALS

Yarn
Sweet Georgia Yarns Tough Love Sock [80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 425yd/388m per 4oz/115 g skein]; color: Cayenne, 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #1/2.25 mm needles for working a small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular for magic loop, or 2 short circulars

Notions
yarn needle
stitch holder or waste yarn

GAUGE

32 sts/45 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The front of this sock is not that stretchy; choose a size with approximately 0.5 inch/1 cm negative ease.

Cluster 3: K3, pass first k st over other 2.

Eyelet Mock Cable for the leg (worked in the round); worked over 4 sts.
Round 1: Cluster 3. 1 st decreased per cable.
Round 2: K1, YO, k1. 1 st increased per cable.
Rounds 3-4: K3.

Eyelet Mock Cable for the heel flap (worked flat); worked over 4 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Cluster 3. 1 st decreased per cable.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, YO, p1. 1 st increased per cable.
Row 3: K3.
Row 4: P3.

Front Panel; worked over 33 sts.
Round 1: (P1, YO, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k3, k2tog, k2, YO) twice, p1.
All even-numbered rounds: (P1, k7) four times, p1.
Round 3: (P1, k1, YO, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k2, k2tog, k2, YO, k1) twice, p1.
Round 5: (P1, k2, YO, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k2) twice, p1.
Round 7: (P1, k3, YO, k2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2, YO, k3) twice, p1.
Rounds 9 - 16: Repeat rounds 1 - 8.
Round 17: (P1, ssk, k5, YO, p1, YO, k5, k2tog) twice, p1.
Round 19: (P1, ssk, k4, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, k4, k2tog) twice, p1.
Round 21: (P1, ssk, k3, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, k3, k2tog) twice, p1.
Round 23: (P1, ssk, k2, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO, k2, k2tog) twice, p1.
Round 25: (P1, k3, k2tog, k2, YO, p1, YO, k2, ssk, k3) twice, p1.
Round 27: (P1, k2, k2tog, k2, YO, k1, p1, k1, YO, k2, ssk, k2) twice, p1.
Round 29: (P1, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k2, p1, k2, YO, k2, ssk, k1) twice, p1.
Round 31: (P1, k2tog, k2, YO, k3, p1, k3, YO, k2, ssk) twice, p1.
Rounds 32 - 39: Repeat rounds 24 - 31.
Round 41: (P1, YO, k5, k2tog, p1, ssk, k5, YO) twice, p1.
Round 43: (P1, k1, YO, k4, k2tog, p1, ssk, k4, YO, k1) twice, p1.
Round 45: (P1, k2, YO, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k3, YO, k2) twice, p1.
Round 47: (P1, k3, YO, k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, YO, k3) twice, p1.
Round 48: (P1, k7) four times, p1.

Techniques:

• Kitchener Stitch

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
Using your favorite stretchy method, CO 56[61, 64, 69, 74] sts. Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join for working in the round.

XS, M, XL only
Rounds 1-4: P 1[-, 2, -, 4] , (k1, p1) 10[-, 13, -, 16] times, k1, p 1[-, 2, -, 4] , (p1, k1) to last st, p1.

S only
Rounds 1-4: P2, (k1, p1, k2, p2, k1) 3 times, k1, p1, k1, p2, (p1, k1) to last st, p1.

L only
Rounds 1-4: P3, (k1, p1, k3, p2, k2) 3 times, k1, p1, k1, p3, (p1, k1) to last st, p1.

Leg
Setup round: P 1[2, 2, 3, 4] , (k3, p 3[4, 5, 6, 7] ) 3 times, k3, p 1[2, 2, 3, 4] , (p1, k7) four times, p1.
All leg rounds: P 1[2, 2, 3, 4] , (work Eyelet Mock Cable, p 3[4, 5, 6, 7] ) three times, work Eyelet Mock Cable, p 1[2, 2, 3, 4] , work Front Panel.
Work until leg is desired length, ending with an Eyelet Mock Cable round 4. For Sizes XS and S only, end the final round 1 st short of the round. Make a note of where you stopped on Front Panel.

Heel Flap Setup
XS[S] setup
Place center 31 sts of Front Panel on a holder (if you stopped 1 st short of the end of the round, this will be the last 31 sts worked). Heel flap is worked flat across remaining 25[30, -, -, -] stitches.

M setup
Place last 33 sts of the previous round on a holder – these are the 33 sts of the Front Panel. Heel flap is worked flat across first 31 sts of the round.

L[XL] setup
P -[-, -, 1, 2] . Place last -[-, -, 35, 37] sts of the previous round on a holder. These are the 33 sts of the Front Panel, with -[-, -, 1, 2] additional purl sts each side. Heel flap is worked flat across remaining -[-, -, 34, 37] sts.

Heel Flap
Rows 1 and 3 (RS): Sl1, p 1[2, 1, 1, 1] , (work Eyelet Mock Cable, p 3[4, 5, 6, 7] ) three times, work Eyelet Mock Cable, p 2[3, 2, 2, 2] .
Rows 2 and 4 (WS): Sl1, k 1[2, 1, 1, 1] , (work Eyelet Mock Cable, k 3[4, 5, 6, 7] ) three times, work Eyelet Mock Cable, k 2[3, 2, 2, 2] .
Repeat Rows 1-4 until heel flap measures about 2[2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75] inches/ 5[5, 6, 6.5, 7] cm, ending with a Row 4.

Heel Turn
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k 13[16, 17, 18, 19] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p 4[5, 6, 5, 4] , p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k 5[6, 7, 6, 5] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, p 6[7, 8, 7, 6] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Row 5: Sl1, k 7[8, 9, 8, 7] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 6: Sl1, p 8[9, 10, 9, 8] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Row 7: Sl1, k 9[10, 11, 10, 9] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 8: Sl1, p 10[11, 12, 11, 10] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Row 9: Sl1, k 11[12, 13, 12, 11] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 10: Sl1, p 12[13, 14, 13, 12] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Size XS: 15 sts rem. Proceed to Gusset Setup.

Sizes S, M, L, XL only
Row 11: Sl1, k -[14, 15, 14, 13] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 12: Sl1, p -[15, 16, 15, 14] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Size S & M: -[18, 19, -, -] sts rem. Proceed to Gusset Setup.

Sizes L, XL only
Row 13: Sl1, k -[-, -, 16, 15] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 14: Sl1, p -[-, -, 17, 16] , p2tog, k1, turn.
Size L: 20 sts rem. Proceed to Gusset Setup.

Size XL only
Row 15: Sl1, k -[-, -, -, 17] , ssk, k1, turn.
Row 16: Sl1, p -[-, -, -, ] 18, p2tog, k1, turn.
Size XL: 21 sts rem. Proceed to Gusset Setup.

Gusset Setup
XS[S] setup
Setup round: Sl1, k 14[17, -, -, -] , pick up and k1 into each sl st along heel flap edge; pick up and p1 into corner between heel flap and instep; starting at st 2 and on the round where you left off, work Front Panel across instep working last p1 by picking up and p1 into corner between heel flap and instep; pick up and k1 into each sl st along other heel flap edge, k 8[9, -, -, -] . This is the new beginning of round. Stitch count may vary, but there should be 33 instep sts.

M setup
Setup round: Sl1, k18, pick up and k1 into each sl st along heel flap edge, pick up and k1 into corner between heel flap and instep; work Front Panel as set across instep (starting on the round where you left off); pick up and k1 into corner between heel flap and instep, pick up and k1 into each sl st along other heel flap edge, k9. This is the new beginning of round. Stitch count may vary, but there should be 33 instep sts.

L[XL] setup
Setup round: Sl1, k -[-, -, 19, 20] , pick up and k1 into each sl st along heel flap edge, pick up and k1 into corner between heel flap and instep, k -[-, -, 1, 2] ; work Front Panel across instep (starting with the round after where you left off on the leg), k -[-, -, 1, 2] ; pick up and k1 into corner between heel flap and instep, pick up and k1 into each sl st along heel flap edge, k -[-, -, 10, 10] . This is the new beginning of round. Stitch count may vary, but there should be 33 instep sts. Move the -[-, -, 1, 2] knit sts at either side of the front panel to the sole.

Gusset
Round 1: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1, work Front Panel across instep, k1, ssk, k to end of round. 2 sts decreased.
Round 2: K to instep, work Front Panel across instep, k to end of round.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 56[61, 64, 69, 74] sts remain.

Foot
Work even in pattern as set until sock foot measures 1.5[1.5, 1.75, 2, 2.5] inches/ 4[4, 4.5, 5, 6.5] cm less than total desired length.

Toe Setup
Setup XS only
Round 1: K to instep, k1; this is the new start of instep – rearrange sts as you prefer – k1, ssk, k to 4 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; this is the new end of instep – rearrange sts as you prefer -- k to end. - 2 sts decreased.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: K to instep, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k to end. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 one more time, then round 2 once more. 50 sts.

Setup S only
Round 1: K to instep, k1; this is the new start of instep – rearrange sts as you prefer – k1, ssk, k to 1 st before instep, this is the new end of instep – rearrange sts as you prefer -- k to end. 60 sts.
Round 2: Knit.

Setup M only
Round 1: K to instep; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k to end. 62 sts.
Round 2: Knit.

Setup L only
Round 1: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k to end. - 1 sts decreased.
Rounds 2 and 4: Knit
Round 3: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k to end of instep; k1, ssk, k to end. 66 sts.

Setup XL only
Round 1: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k1; k to end of instep; k1, ssk, k to end. 2 sts decreased.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 three more times. 66 sts.

Toe
Round 1: K to 3 sts before instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, k to end. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 4[7, 7, 8, 8] more times, and work Round 1 once more. 26[24, 26, 26, 26] total sts remain.
K to start of instep and stop.
Using Kitchener Stitch, graft toe closed.

FINISHING

Block and weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Mary Hull hosts the Kino Knits podcast, which, like her Kino Knits knitting design line, aims to take knitters along guided but exciting adventures to unusual places through the Knitting on Safari segment. One of her favorite things is to spotlight indie fiber businesses, be it through collaborations like her Point/Counterpoint series or podcast interviews. Her goal is to help process knitters create beautiful projects. That, and to keep her family wrapped in stylish warm woolies.

Find her on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2017 Mary Hull (Kino Knits).