INTRODUCTION

Yoru

by Valentina Cosciani

I have always been fascinated by Japanese culture; namely, I am intrigued by its contrast between minimalism and refinement. This kindled the inspiration for this cardigan. It has simple lines, but it is full of details that in my mind suggests a landscape at night.

Yoru is a loose-fitting comfortable cardigan knit top-down in one piece.The shawl collar is knit in two symmetrical halves and decorated with an interesting textured pattern. Stitches are then picked up from the collar and worked down for the yoke, then separated for the body and sleeves. 

The sleeves are decorated with a compatible pattern that continues down the arm, and the body is shaped using short rows so that the back is slightly longer than the front. Twisted rib lace panels make the pattern pop.

model: Valentina Cosciani

photos: Paolo Bonivento

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size L with 3.5 inches/9 cm of ease at back bust width.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 38[42, 46.25, 50.5, 54.5, 59.25, 62.5] inches / 96.5[106.5, 117.5, 128.5, 138.5, 150.5, 159] cm
Back bust width (center underarm-to-center-underarm): 15[17, 19, 21, 23, 25.25, 27] inches / 38[43, 48.5, 53.5, 58.5, 64, 68.5] cm
Length: 25.75[26.25, 27.25, 28.25, 28.75, 29.25, 29.75] inches / 65.5[66.5, 69, 72, 73, 74.5, 75.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
BROOKLYN TWEED Loft [100% American Wool; 275 yd/251 m per 1.76 oz/50 g skein]; color: Old World; 5[6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #2.5/3mm circular needle, 32-inch/80 cm length or longer
US #2.5/3mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long or 2 short circulars

Notions
yarn needle
6 stitch markers (optional: 4 in a different colour to mark raglan)
waste yarn or stitch holders

GAUGE

22 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Stockinette stitch
Neck Chart measures 4 inches / 10 cm wide
Back Chart measures 6.75 inches / 17 cm wide
Sleeve Chart measures 1.5 inches / 4 cm wide

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The yoke of the garment is worked flat, top down in one piece to the underarms.
After the division between sleeves and body, this is worked flat.

The sleeves are worked in the round.

When counting stitches, count Neck Chart as 23 sts and Back Chart as 37 sts no matter last row of chart worked.

Techniques:

• This sweater uses the cable cast-on.
• Instead of using traditional wrap & turn (w&t) short rows, you may wish to use German Short Row method.
  If using German Short rows, turn the work before the w&t designated in the pattern.

You may wish to use markers to designate boundaries of charts. If so, remember not to count these markers when working instructions.

Special Stitches
K3tog: Knit the next 3 sts together. 2 sts dec'd.
Sssk: Slip next 3 sts separately knitwise and slip back to LH needle. Knit next 3 sts together through the back loops. 2 sts dec'd.

Neck Chart (worked over 23 sts):
Note: The total number of sts resulting after Row 1 is 17 sts; this returns to 23 after Row 2 is completed.
Row 1 [RS]: (K3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p1) twice, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk.
Row 2 [WS]: (P1, yo, p1, k1) 5 times, p1, yo, p1.
Row 3, 5, 7: (K1tbl, p1) 11 times, k1tbl.
Row 4, 6, 8: (P1tbl, k1) 11 times, p1tbl.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Back Chart (worked over 37 sts):
Note: The total number of sts resulting after Rows 1 and 9 is 33 sts; this returns to 37 after Rows 2 and 10 are completed.

Row 1 [RS]: P1, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, (p1, yo, ssk, yo, k1, s2kpo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo) twice, p1, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p1.
Row 2 [WS): (K1, p1, yo, p1) twice, k2, p8, k1, p8, k2, (p1, yo, p1, k1) twice.
Row 3: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p2, yo, ssk, yo, s2kpo, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, ssk, yo, s2kpo, yo, k2tog, yo, p2, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 4: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, k3, p5, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p5, k3, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Row 5: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, (p1, k1) twice, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p3, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 6: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, k4, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p4, k4, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Row 7: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p4, yo, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, sssk, yo, p4, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 8: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, k5, p5, k1, p5, k5, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Row 9: P1, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p4, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k2, yo, ssk, p4, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p1.
Row 10: (K1, p1, yo, p1) twice, k4, p6, k1, p6, k4, (p1, yo, p1, k1) twice.
Row 11: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p3, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p3, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 12: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, k3, p7, k1, p7, k3, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Row 13: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p2, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k4, yo, ssk, p2, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 14: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, k2, p8, k1, p8, k2, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Row 15: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k5, yo, ssk, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 4 times.
Row 16: (K1, p1tbl) 4 times, (k1, p9) twice, k1, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times.
Repeat Rows 1-16 for patt.

Sleeve Chart (worked flat over 9 sts):
Note: The total number of sts resulting after Row 1 is 7 sts; this returns to 9 after Row 2 is completed.
Row 1 [RS]: P1, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, (p1, yo, p1, k1) twice.
Row 3, 5, 7: (P1, k1tbl) four times, p1.
Row 4, 6, 8: (K1, p1tbl) four times, k1.
Rep Rows 1-8 for patt.

Sleeve Chart (worked in the round over 9 sts):
Note: The total number of sts resulting after Rnd 1 is 7 sts; this returns to 9 after Rnd 2 is completed.
Rnd 1: P1, k3tog, yo, p1, yo, sssk, p1.
Rnd 2: (P1, k1, yo, k1) twice, p1.
Rnds 3-8: (P1, k1tbl) 4 times, p1.
Rep Rnds 1-8 for patt.

CHARTS

DIRECTIONS

Back Neck Border
CO 25 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Row 1 of Neck Chart over next 23 sts, k1tbl.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, work Neck Chart over next 23 sts, k1tbl.
Cont in patt as est, knitting the first st of every row and working last st as k1tbl, until a total of 44[44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 52] rows have been worked, ending after Row 4[4, 4, 4, 8, 8, 4] of Neck Chart.
Cut yarn and place sts on holder.

With WS facing, pick up and purl 25 sts from cast-on edge of piece. Turn so RS is facing.

Work Rows 1-2, then cont in patt as est until a total of 44[44, 44, 44, 48, 48, 52] rows have been worked, ending after Row 4[4, 4, 4, 8, 8, 4] of Neck Chart.

Next row [RS]: K1, work Row 5[5, 5, 5, 1, 1, 5] of Neck Chart to last st, p1; turn the work 90 degrees clockwise and pick up and knit 61[61, 61, 61, 67, 67, 73] sts along edge of Back Neck Border (approx. 2 sts for every 3 rows); turn the work 90 degrees clockwise once more. Place held sts on LH ndl and p1, work Row 5[5, 5, 5, 1, 1, 5] of Neck Chart to last st, k1tbl. 111[111, 111, 111, 117, 117, 123] sts.

Yoke
Set-up row [WS]: K1, work next row of Neck Chart, k1, pm for neck, pm for raglan, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , (k1, p1tbl) 4 times, k1, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , pm for raglan, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , (k1, p1tbl) 4 times, (k1, p9) twice, k1, (p1tbl, k1) 4 times, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , pm for raglan, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , (k1, p1tbl) 4 times, k1, p 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , pm for raglan, pm for neck, k1, work Neck Chart, k1tbl. 25 sts for each Front; 39[39, 39, 39, 41, 41, 43] sts for Back; 11[11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15] sts for each Sleeve.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Neck Chart, p1, sl neck m, M1R, sl raglan m, k1, M1L, k 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 2] , work Row 1 of Sleeve Chart, k 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 2] , M1R, k1, sl raglan m, M1L, k 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , work Row 1 of Back Chart, k 1[1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3] , M1R, sl raglan m, k1, M1L, k 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 2] , work Row 1 of Sleeve Chart, k 0[0, 0, 0, 1, 1, 2] , M1R, k1, sl raglan m, M1L, sl neck m, p1, work Neck Chart, k1tbl. 119[119, 119, 119, 125, 125, 131] sts: 26 sts for each Front; 41[41, 41, 41, 43, 43, 45] sts for Back; 13[13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17] sts for each Sleeve.

Next row [WS]: K1, work Neck Chart, k1, sl m, purl to m, sl m, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , work next row of Sleeve Chart, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , sl m, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , work next row of Back Chart, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , sl m, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , work Sleeve Chart, p 2[2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4] , sl m, p1, sl m, k1, work next row of Neck Chart, k1tbl.

Note: These rows establish the pattern of 1 st garter st, 23 sts in Neck Chart and 1 st in rev St st between front edges and neck markers, as well as Sleeve Charts in center of Sleeves and Back Chart in center of back, with remainder of row worked in St st. All increases will be worked into St st. When working even in patt, remember to work the last st of every row as k1tbl.

Neck and Raglan Inc Row [RS]: K1, work Neck Chart, p1, (sl m, M1L, patt to m, M1R, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1) twice, sl m, M1L, k to m, M1R, sl m, p1, work Neck Chart, k1tbl. 10 sts inc’d.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.
Raglan Inc Row [RS]: K1, work Neck Chart, p1, sl m, (patt to m, M1R, sl m, K1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, M1L) twice, knit to m, sl m, p1, work Neck Chart, k1tbl. 8 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.

Rep last 4 rows 6[8, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14] times more, changing to longer circ when needed. 245[281, 335, 353, 359, 377, 401] sts: 47[53, 62, 65, 65, 68, 71] sts for each Front, 69[77, 89, 93, 95, 99, 105] sts for Back, and 41[49, 61, 65, 67, 71, 77] sts for each sleeve.

Sizes XS and S Only:
Neck and Sleeve Inc Row [RS]: Patt to m, sl m, M1L, knit to m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, patt to m, sl m, K1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, knit to m, M1L, sl m, patt to end. 6 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.
Sleeve Inc Row [RS]: Patt to next raglan m, sl m, k1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, patt to m, sl m, K1, M1L, patt to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, sl m, patt to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.
Rep last 4 rows 2[1, -, -, -, -, -] times more. 275[301, -, -, -, -, -] sts: 50[55, -, -, -, -, -] sts for each Front, 69[77, -, -, -, -, -] sts for Back, 53[57, -, -, -, -, -] sts for each Sleeve.

Sizes M-3X Only:
Neck and Body Inc Row [RS]: Patt to m, sl m, M1L, knit to m, M1R, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1L, patt to m, M1R, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m, patt to end. 6 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.
Body Inc Row [RS]: Patt to next raglan m, M1R, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1L, patt to m, M1R, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1R, patt to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.

Rep last 4 rows -[-, 0, 1, 1, 0, 0] times more. -[-, 345, 373, 379, 387, 411] sts: -[-, 65, 71, 71, 71, 74] sts for each Front, -[-, 93, 101, 103, 103, 109] sts for Back, and -[-, 61, 65, 67, 71, 77] sts for each Sleeve.

Sizes 1X-3X Only:
Rep Neck and Body Inc Row.
Body Inc Row [WS]: Patt to next raglan m, M1P, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1P, patt to m, M1P, sl m, patt to m, sl m, M1P, patt to end. 4 sts inc'd.
Rep Body Inc Row [RS].
Rep Body Inc Row [WS].
Rep last 4 rows -[-, -, -, 0, 1, 1] time more. -[-, -, -, 397, 423, 447] sts: -[-, -, -, 76, 81, 84] sts for each Front, -[-, -, -, 111, 119, 125] sts for Back, and -[-, -, -, 67, 71, 77] sts for each Sleeve.

All Sizes Resume:

Divide for Sleeves and Body:
Set-up row [RS]: Patt to m, sl m, M1L, *patt to raglan m, remove m, place next 53[57, 61, 65, 67, 71, 77] sts on holder, remove m, turn and CO 10[12, 12, 14, 16, 20, 24] sts, turn to RS; rep from * once more, knit to m, M1R, sl m, patt to end. 2 markers remain at each front neck. 201[223, 249, 273, 297, 323, 343] sts: 59[65, 72, 79, 85, 92, 97] sts for each Front, 83[93, 105, 115, 127, 139, 149] sts for Back.

Note: Make a note of last row worked of Sleeve Charts for future reference.

Next row [WS]: K1, work Neck Chart, k1, sl m, patt to m (working CO underarm sts in St st), sl m, k1, work Neck Chart, k1tbl.

BODY
Work 2 rows even in patt.
Neck Inc Row [RS]: Patt to m, sl m, M1L, patt to m, M1R, sl m, patt to end. 2 sts inc'd.
Work 1 WS row even in patt.
Rep last 4 rows 5[5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 2] times more. 213[235, 259, 283, 305, 331, 349] sts.

Work even in patt as est until piece measures 4.25 inches / 11 cm from underarm, ending after a WS row.

Begin short rows:
Row 1 [RS]: Patt to 6 sts before last m, w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: Patt to 6 sts before last m, w&t.
Row 3: Patt to end, working wrap together with wrapped st.
Row 4: Patt to end, working wrap together with wrapped st.
Rows 5-6: Work even in patt.
Rep Rows 1-6 9 times more.

Work even in patt until piece measures approx. 14.25 inches / 36 cm from underarm measured along centre back or until work measures 2 inches / 5 cm shorter than total desired length, ending after Row 16 of Back Chart.

Hem
Row 1 [RS]: Patt to m, sl m, (k1tbl, p1) to 1 st before m, k1tbl, sl m, patt to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Patt to m, sl m, (p1tbl, k1) to 1 st before m, p1tbl, sl m, patt to end.
Cont to work even in Neck Chart and twisted rib as est until work measures 16.25 inches / 41.5 cm from underarm when measured along centre back or desired length, ending after a WS row.
BO in patt.

Sleeves
With needles for working small circumference in the round and with RS of Yoke facing, starting at center of underarm, pick up and knit 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12] sts to held sts; patt across 53[57, 61, 65, 67, 71, 77] held sts for Sleeve, then pick up and knit 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12] sts to center of underarm. Join to work in the rnd. 63[69, 73, 79, 83, 91, 101] sts.

Work 9[7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 4] rnds even in St st and Sleeve Chart as est.
Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd.
Rep last 10[8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 5] rnds 11[14, 15, 17, 18, 21, 25] times more. 39[39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49] sts.

Work 4 rnds even in patt.
Rep Dec Rnd. 37[37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47] sts.

Work even in patt until sleeve measures approx. 17.75[18.25, 18.25, 18.25, 18.5, 18.5, 19] inches / 45[46.5, 46.5, 46.5, 47, 47, 48.5] cm from underarm or 2 inches / 5 cm shorter than total desired length, ending after Rnd 8 of Sleeve Chart.

Cuff
Rnd 1: (K1tbl, p1) to Sleeve Chart sts, work Sleeve Chart, (k1tbl, p1) to last 2 sts, p2tog. 36[36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46] sts.
Rnds 2-3: (K1tbl, p1) to Sleeve Chart sts, work Sleeve Chart, (k1tbl, p1) to end.
Rnd 4: (K1tbl, p1) to end.
Rep Rnd 4 until Cuff measures 2 inches / 5 cm.
BO in rib patt.

Repeat for second sleeve.

A: Back neck width: 7[7, 7, 7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.75] inches / 18[18, 18, 18, 19, 19, 19.5] cm
B: Raglan length: 9.5[10, 11, 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5] inches / 24[25.5, 28, 30.5, 32, 33, 34.5] cm
C: Body length: 16.25 inches / 41.5 cm
D: Back bust width: 15[17, 19, 21, 23, 25.25, 27] inches / 38[43, 48.5, 53.5, 58.5, 64, 68.5] cm
E: Bust circumference: 38[42, 46.25, 50.5, 54.5, 59.25, 62.5] inches / 96.5[106.5, 117.5, 128.5, 138.5, 150.5, 159] cm
F: Upper arm circumference: 11.5[12.5, 13.25, 14.25, 15, 16.5, 18.25] inches / 29[32, 33.5, 36, 38, 42, 46.5] cm
G: Sleeve length: 19.75[20.25, 20.25, 20.25, 20.5, 20.5, 21] inches / 50[51.5, 51.5, 51.5, 52, 52, 53.5] cm
H: Cuff circumference: 6.75[6.75, 7, 7.5, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5] inches / 17[17, 18, 19, 19.5, 21, 21.5] cm

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Valentina Cosciani (alias TIBISAY) lives and works in Trieste (Italy) with her husband, two sons, and two cats. She spends most of her time designing patterns, writing her blog, and making videos for her YouTube channel.

She desperately tries to fit together the pieces of a chaotic daily routine that includes knitting, traveling in Italy, Austria and Switzerlandto present new designs, and cooking for the famished men in her active family... failing more often than not!

Find her here on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2018 Valentina Cosciani.