INTRODUCTION

Light Armor

by Agnes Zombory

This cowl was entirely inspired by the yarn itself. It is so soft, and so drapey, that after knitting a small stockinette swatch, my first thought was that I wanted this to be a turtleneck sweater. However, I did not have enough yarn for that, so I decided on a cowl.

I wanted something a little bit lacy, and I wanted it to be tapered, but after searching far and wide for a suitable cowl pattern, I didn't find anything I would be satisfied with. Every pattern either inserted stockinette blocks for shaping or told me to just switch to a smaller needle. I didn't want that! I wanted an all-over stitch pattern, and I wanted shaping in pattern.

I grew tired of searching and decided to design my own. After knitting a few swatches I chose the Hourglass Eyelet Pattern, which is open enough to look like lace, but closed enough to stand up even to winter weather. Then I went about figuring out how to add decreases without breaking the undulating lines of the stitch pattern.

The cowl is wide at the bottom to cover more open sweater necklines, but narrow enough at the top to stay put when pulled up in front of your face. It is also long enough to keep that sweater neckline covered while simultaneously covering your nose.

model: Agnes Zombory

photos: Árpád Toldy and Judit Nyári

SIZE

One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Circumference at top: 19 inches/48 cm
Circumference at bottom: 27.5 inches/70 cm
Height: 15 inches/38 cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Win(d)dorf Edelgarn Yak und Maulbeerseide [50% yak, 50% silk; 508 yd/465 m per 100 g skein]; color: braunmeliert; 1 skein

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a 3-ply light fingering-weight 50% yak down, 50% mulberry silk yarn. When knit up, it has a beautiful drape, and blooms a little after washing. Sample used approximately 380 yds/350m.

If you are looking for a substitute, mYak Baby Yak/Silk is a nearly exact match.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #2.5/3 mm 16 inch/40 cm circular needle
A single needle US #4-5/3.5-3.75mm, for binding off

Notions
stitch marker for start of round
3 pieces of string for running markers, or removable stitch markers – see Pattern Notes
yarn needle

GAUGE

26 sts/34 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
26 sts/42 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in pattern stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This pattern highly benefits from the use of running stitch markers. The marker runs on the right side of the central columns of the decreases. More information about them here.

You may use regular stitch markers if you wish, but in that case, you will need to take the marker out every time you work an S2KPO, and place it on the right side of the resulting stitch.

CHARTS

Lace Pattern
Work from written or charted instructions as you prefer.

Round 1: (K5, p1) around.
Round 2: (YO, SSK, p1, k2tog, YO, k1) around.
Rounds 3-5: K2, p1, (k5, p1) to last 3 stitches, k3.
Round 6: (K2tog, YO, k1, YO, SSK, p1) around.
Rounds 7 & 8: (K5, p1) around.

DIRECTIONS

Using the long-tail method, CO 180 sts. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: (K1, p1) around.
Round 2: K to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 three more times, and work Round 1 once more.
Round 10 (marker setup): (K5, p1) 4 times, k5, place removable or running marker (see Pattern Notes), p1, *(k5, p1) 9 times, k5, place running marker, p1; repeat from * once more, (k5, p1) 5 times.

Pattern Section 1:
Working from chart or written instructions, work Lace Pattern Rounds 1-8 four times, and work Rounds 1-3 one more time.

Decrease Section 1:
Round 1: K2, p1, *(k5, p1) to 2 stitches before marker, SSK, k1, k2tog, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to last 3 stitches, k3. 6 stitches decreased.
Round 2: K2, p1, *(k5, p1) to 1 stitch before marker, k3, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to last 3 stitches, k3.
Round 3: K2tog, YO, k1, *(YO, SSK, p1, k2tog, YO, k1) to 1 stitch before marker, S2KPO, k1, repeat from * twice more, (YO, SSK, p1, k2tog, YO, k1) to last 3 stitches, YO, SSK, p1. 6 stitches decreased.
Round 4: *(K5, p1) to 3 stitches before marker, k7, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to end of round.
Round 5: *(K5, p1) to 3 stitches before marker, k1, SSK, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to end of round. 6 stitches decreased.

Pattern Section 2:
162 sts.

Working from chart or written instructions, work Lace Pattern Rounds 1-8 three times, and work Rounds 1-7 one more time.

Decrease Section 2:
Round 1: *(K5, p1) to 2 stitches before marker, SSK, k1, k2tog, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to end of round. 156 sts.
Round 2: * (K5, p1) to 1 stitch before marker, k3, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to end of round.
Round 3: *(YO, SSK, p1, k2tog, YO, k1) to 1 stitch before marker, S2KPO, k1, repeat from * twice more, (YO, SSK, p1, k2tog, YO, k1) to end of round. 150 sts.
Round 4: K2, p1, *(k5, p1) to 3 stitches before marker, k7, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to last 3 stitches, k3.
Round 5: K2, p1, *(k5, p1) to 3 stitches before marker, k1, SSK, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, repeat from * twice more, (k5, p1) to last 3 stitches, k3. 144 sts.

Pattern Section 3:
Working from chart or written instructions, work Lace Pattern Rounds 5-8, then work Rounds 1-8 three times, and work Rounds 1-3 one more time.

Decrease Section 3:
Repeat Decrease Section 1. 126 stitches.

Pattern Section 4:
Working from chart or written instructions, work Lace Pattern Rounds 1-8 two times, and work Rounds 1-6 one more time.

Top Edge
Round 1: K to end of round.
Round 2: (K1, p1) around.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 three more times.

Using the larger needle to work the stitches, bind off in (k1, p1) pattern.

FINISHING

Wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Weave in all ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

As a child, Agnes thought knitting was boring, and refused to learn, even though she liked handicrafts. She taught herself how to knit when she was 25. As she was living in tropical Singapore, to be able to knit anything remotely wearable, she had to learn lace knitting very quickly.

Today she lives in Finland with her husband and two children, and even though the climate is much colder, she still likes knitting things with holes in it. She always has a textile project running, be it sewing, embroidery or knitting. When she is not busy with any of the above, she is learning Finnish, picking berries, building snow forts or chilling at a lakeside.

You can also find her work on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2022 Agnes Zombory