Wideford

Wideford Sweater, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Wideford

beauty shot by

Mellow

 

I designed this sweater for ME! I had ordered an Advent Calendar box from Rainbow Fusions and had chosen the option of 50g DK yarn per day. I wanted to make a long tunic with the colors flowing from one cuff to the other. I realized the easiest way to make sure the color sequence flowed over the shoulders and across the neck was to use a steek. (If you haven't done it before, steeking is straightforward – I have a step-by-step guide on my website) My hands are always cold, so I have used a long cuff with a thumb hole. The cuff can be folded in half when the mitt part is not needed, or can be discarded altogether if you prefer, by knitting half the length of rib for your size.

Because not everyone wants (or has the endurance to knit) a tunic-length sweater, so I also offer here two other versions: one hip length, and one cropped (shown below).

No matter the length you choose to knit, this sweater is the perfect foil for hand-dyed yarns, or gradients with a long color change. You could also use a single yarn throughout, or use mainly one color, but with small stripes of other colors. Think of it as a canvas on which you can create wearable art!

spacer model: Natasha Stacey, Elizabeth Lovick

spacer photos: Nick Lovick, Elizabeth Lovick, Arie Wark

SIZE

women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X]
shown (above) in size XL tunic length with 10 inches/25.5 cm of ease
shown (below) in size S cropped length with 10 inches/25.5 cm of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest circumference at underarm:  40[44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] inches/ 102[112, 122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 173, 183] cm
Cropped total length:  16[16.75, 17.5, 18.25, 18.75, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5] inches/ 40.5[42.5, 44.5, 46.5, 47.5, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 52] cm
Hip total length:  19[21.75, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.25, 22.75, 23, 24] inches/ 48.5[55, 53.5, 54.5, 56, 56.5, 58, 58.5, 61] cm
Tunic total length:  33[34, 35, 36, 36.75, 37.25, 38, 38.75, 39.25] inches/ 84[86.5, 89, 91.5, 93.5, 94.5, 96.5, 98.5, 99.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Rainbow Fusions Superwash Merino DK [100% superwash merino; 246yd/225m per 100g]; 2021 Advent selection;

spacer Cropped Length: 4[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7] skeins total or 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19, 21, 23] oz / 400[450, 450, 500, 500, 550, 550, 600, 650] g
spacer Hip Length:  5[6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11] skeins total or 18[19, 21, 23, 25, 26, 30, 34, 37] oz/ 500[550, 600, 650, 700, 750, 850, 950, 1050] g
spacer Tunic Length7[8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 12, 13] skeins total or 25[28, 32, 34, 35, 39, 41, 43, 46] oz/ 700[800, 900, 950, 1000, 1100, 1150, 1200, 1300] g


Yarn Characteristics
spacer The sample is made with a superwash merino, which makes it warm yet easy to care for. Make sure you dry larger garments flat to avoid them stretching.


Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 US #4/3.5 mm 36 inch/90 cm long circular needle
spacer 1 US #6/4 mm 36 inch/90 cm long circular needle
spacer very small gauge circular needle, about US #000/1.5mm, for picking up stitches at the neck and hem

Notions
spacer row counter
spacer stitch marker
spacer stitch holder or length of thread
spacer yarn needle

GAUGE

20 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needle

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Three different lengths are given. Make sure you cast on and bind off the correct number of stitches for the body for the length you want. All other instructions are the same for all three lengths.

Note that the garment is knitted flat, but circular needles may be needed because of the large numbers of stitches on the needle.

Colors:
It is an ideal pattern for fade sets or Advent Calendar skeins. It can also be made in a single color. Please note that for the samples shown, the cropped version used 20 g miniskeins, while the tunic version used 50 g miniskeins.

If you are working with fade skeins and you want to avoid a sharp delineation when changing colors, work the following sequence: 2 rows with new color, 4 rows with old, 4 rows new color and 2 rows old. Continue with the new color only.

Single rib: [K1, p1] to end of row/round.

Steeking:
This pattern makes use of a neck steek to keep the colors the same on the back as the front.

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
With smaller needles CO 40[44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] sts loosely and work 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7.75, 7.75] inches/ 13[13, 13, 15, 15, 18, 18, 20, 20] cm in single rib.

Next Row [WS]: Work 20[22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36] , pm, work to end of row.
Change to larger needles.

Starting with a knit row, work 36[38, 38, 36, 36, 30, 26, 20, 18] rows in St st. Adjust sleeve length here, working more rounds for a longer sleeve or fewer rounds for a shorter sleeve (refer to schematic measurements for final sleeve length as written).

Sleeve Increases
Row 1 [RS]: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat these two rows until there are 120[122, 126, 128, 132, 138, 146, 152, 158] sts on the needle, finishing after a purl row.

Body increases
For cropped length:
Row 1 [RS]: CO 12[15, 17, 20, 20, 19, 17, 16, 15] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: CO 12[15, 17, 20, 20, 19, 17, 16, 15] sts, purl to end of row. 144[152, 160, 168, 172, 176, 180, 184, 188] sts total.

For hip length:
Row 1 [RS]: CO 28[35, 35, 36, 36, 35, 33, 32, 33] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: CO 28[35, 35, 36, 36, 35, 33, 32, 33] sts, purl to end of row. 176[192, 196, 200, 204, 208, 212, 216, 224] sts total.

For tunic length:
Row 1 [RS]: CO 98[102, 104, 108, 110, 110, 110, 110, 110] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: CO 98[102, 104, 108, 110, 110, 110, 110, 110] sts, purl to end of row. 316[326, 334, 344, 352, 358, 366, 372, 378] sts total.

All lengths:
Work straight in St st for a further 7.5[8.5, 9.5, 10, 11, 11.5, 12.5. 13, 14, ] inches/ 19[21.5, 24, 25.5, 28, 29, 32, 33, 35.5] cm, finishing after a WS row. Note the number of rows worked.

Neck opening:
Next Row [RS]: Knit to 5[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10] sts before m, place next 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts on a stitch holder or length of yarn, removing marker; pm, knit to end of row.
Next Row [WS]: Purl to m, CO 9 sts for the steek, purl to end of row.

Work straight in St st for a further 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7.75, 7.75] inches/ 13[13, 13, 15, 15, 18, 18, 20, 20] cm.

Next Row [RS]: Knit to m, sm, BO 9 sts, knit to end of row.
Next Row [WS]: Purl to m, rm, CO 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts, purl to end of row.

Work straight in St st for a further 7.5[8.5, 9.5, 10, 11, 11.5, 12.5. 13, 14, ] inches/ 19[21.5, 24, 25.5, 28, 29, 32, 33, 35.5] cm, working the same number of rows as before the neck opening and ending with a WS row.

Body Decreases
For cropped length:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 12[15, 17, 20, 20, 19, 17, 16, 15] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 12[15, 17, 20, 20, 19, 17, 16, 15] sts, purl to end of row.

For hip length:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 28[35, 35, 36, 36, 35, 33, 32, 33] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 28[35, 35, 36, 36, 35, 33, 32, 33] sts, purl to end of row.

For tunic length:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 98[102, 104, 108, 110, 110, 110, 110, 110] sts, knit to end of row.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 98[102, 104, 108, 110, 110, 110, 110, 110] sts, purl to end of row.

 120[122, 126, 128, 132, 138, 146, 152, 158] sts remain.

Sleeve Decreases:
Row 1 [RS]: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat these 2 rows until there are 40[44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] sts on the needle, finishing after a purl row.

Starting with a knit row, work 36[38, 38, 36, 36, 30, 26, 20, 18] rows in stocking stitch. Adjust sleeve length here if needed, working the same number of rows as on the first sleeve.

Cuff
Change to smaller needles and work 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7.75, 7.75] inches/ 13[13, 13, 15, 15, 18, 18, 20, 20] cm in single rib.

BO loosely in rib.

Neck
With the very small gauge needle, and starting at one end of the neck steek, *pick up the end loop of every row adjusting as needed in order to pick up a multiple of 5 sts, then pick up the 10[10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20] sts from the side neck. Repeat from * once. Cut steek.

Join yarn, and with the large needle, work in the round as follows:
Rnd 1: *[K1, p1, k2tog, p1] to end of the front/back neck, [k1, p1] across the shoulder sts; repeat from * once more.
Rnd 2: Work in single rib.
Repeat Rnd 2 for 2 inches/5 cm. Change to the smaller needle and work in single rib for 2 inches/5 cm more. BO very loosely.

Hem
Sew the side seams of the body.
With the very small gauge needle, and starting from a side seam, pick up the outside leg of the second stitch of every row. The exact number will depend on the number of rows worked.

Rejoin yarn and change to the smaller needle.
Rnd 1: [K2, k2tog] to end of row.
Rnd 2: Purl.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Repeat Rnds 2-3 4 times more, then Rnd 3 again.
BO purlwise.

FINISHING

Sew the first 1 inch/2.5 cm of the cuff; leave a 1 inch/2.5 cm gap, then sew the rest of the sleeve seams. Fold the neck band to the inside, and sew the BO edge to the first round of the ribbing, keeping the seam loose enough to fit over your head. Weave in all ends. Wash and dry flat, pulling to shape.


A – cuff length: 5[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] inches/ 12.5[12.5, 12.5, 15, 15, 18, 18, 20.5, 20.5] cm
B – sleeve length after cuff: 14.5[14.5, 14.5, 14, 14, 13.5, 13.5, 13, 13] inches/ 37[37, 37, 35.5, 35.5, 34.5, 34.5, 33, 33] cm
C – wingspan with cuffs folded in half: 54[56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70] inches/ 137[142, 147.5, 152.5, 157.5, 162.5, 167.5, 172.5, 178] cm
D – neck width:  7[7, 7.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9.75, 10.25. 11.5, 12, ] inches/ 18[18, 19, 21.5, 22, 25, 26, 29, 30.5] cm
E – chest circumference at underarm: 40[44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] inches/ 102[112, 122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 173, 183] cm
F – cropped length:  16[16.75, 17.5, 18.25, 18.75, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5] inches/ 40.5[42.5, 44.5, 46.5, 47.5, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 52] cm
G – hip length:  19[21.75, 21, 21.5, 22, 22.25, 22.75, 23, 24] inches/ 48.5[55, 53.5, 54.5, 56, 56.5, 58, 58.5, 61] cm
H – tunic length:  33[34, 35, 36, 36.75, 37.25, 38, 38.75, 39.25] inches/ 84[86.5, 89, 91.5, 93.5, 94.5, 96.5, 98.5, 99.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername I live and work on Orkney, a group of islands off the top of Scotland. I've been knitting, designing and writing since I was small and enjoy bringing traditional stitches to modern knitters. I have self-published several books, including Patterns for North Ronaldsay Yarn, The Gansey Workbook, The Fair Isle Workbook, Exploring Shawl Shapes and the Fine Spinning Workbook. I am the author of the best-selling ‘The Magic of Shetland Lace Knitting' and ‘Magical Shetland Shawls to Knit', published by Search Press in the UK and St Martins in the USA, both of which have been widely translated. I am the editor of ‘Centenary Stitches', a book of patterns updated from the WW1 era.

Find my books here and my patterns here. I am northernlace on Etsy, Instagram, Facebook and Ravelry, but LizLovick on Twitter.

Pattern & images © 2022 Elizabeth Lovick