Penland, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Penland

beauty shot by Merri Fromm

Tangy

I took a summer session course in the iron studio at Penland School of Craft, in Penland, North Carolina. Every night at the school we have a slide show for the community to come together and to see the work of the studio instructors. The evenings in the mountains are cool, and across the gallery I spotted the cardigan that inspired this design. Going right along with my newly found obsession with intarsia (yes, you read that right: I love intarsia), I stalked that sweater across campus. Finally reaching the wearer, I told her how much I loved her sweater and asked, "do you knit?" She does! But sadly her cardigan was machine made. So this pattern is my homage to Penland and all the great artisans who come together to learn, share and enjoy a few weeks of doing nothing but working your craft.

I love the pure graphic sensibility of the large cross hatch. I also wanted a yarn with some personality, because Penland is that kind of place. This amazing fuzzy yarn—it's a little odd, funky even—is made from a painted inner thread that is surrounded by a differently colored net. It knits great, as yarn in a tube is not splitty in the least. If you're shy about trying intarsia, this yarn with this motif will be as easy as a cool mountain breeze.

spacer model: Merri Fromm

spacer photos: Gaius Nelson

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X, 6X]
shown in size L with 3 inches/7.5 cm of ease at chest

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 34.25[38.25, 42.25, 46.25, 50.25, 54.25, 58.25, 62.25, 66.25, 70.25] inches / 87[97, 107.5, 117.5, 127.5, 138, 148, 158, 168.5, 178.5] cm
Length: 19.5[20, 21.25, 23, 23, 23.75, 24, 24.75, 25, 26] inches / 49.5[51, 54, 58.5, 58.5, 60.5, 61, 63, 63.5, 66] cm

Yarn
Scheepjes River Washed XL [70% cotton, 30% acrylic; 82 yd/75m per 1.76 oz/50g skein];
[MC] Severn; 7[8, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17] skeins
[CC] Murray; 1[1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3] skeins

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses an aran-weight cotton blended with acrylic. The yarn is made from a painted inner thread surrounded by a differently colored net. It is an unusual yarn that is dense with a light haze of fluff. If using a non-netted yarn, choose one that is aran-weight and light and fluffy.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #6/4mm needles for working flat
US #8/5mm needles for working flat
US #8/5mm needles for small circumference in the round
US #6/4mm needles for small circumference in the round

Notions
2 stitch markers
scrap yarn or stitch holders
six 1 inch/2.5 cm buttons
yarn needle

Note: For side seaming, try using a fingering-weight yarn of a similar color to create a less bulky seam

GAUGE

16 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch with larger needles

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method:
The body of this cardigan is worked flat, in pieces, from the bottom up and then seamed. Set-in sleeve stitches are picked up at the armholes and worked top down. The button band is picked up and worked, then buttons are sewn on.

Working intarsia:

When changing yarns, bring the new strand up from underneath the previous strand, twisting the yarns together to prevent holes in the work.
When switching colors over the 3 sts, hold new color over thumb to prevent color changing from getting too tight. This technique is similar to working stranded colorwork.
To keep yarn from getting tangled, always turn working piece counter-clockwise for back and clockwise for front.

Rib Pattern (worked flat; multiple of 4 sts)
Row 1 [RS]: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep Row 1 for patt.

Back Stripe Pattern
Rows 1-4: Work in MC.
Rows 5-7: Work in CC.
Rep Rows 1-7 for patt. Note that the stripes match the placement of the crosses on the front intarsia pattern.

CHARTS

Intarsia pattern (worked over 10 sts)
Rows 1 & 3 [RS]: Using MC, k3, using CC, k4, using MC, k3.
Rows 2 & 4 [WS]: Using MC, p3, using CC, p4, using MC, p3.
Rows 5 & 7: Using CC, k10.
Row 6: Using CC, p10.
Rows 8 & 10: Using MC, p3, using CC, p4, using MC, p3.
Row 9 & 11: Using MC, k3, using CC, k4, using MC, k3.
Row 12: Using CC, p10.
Row 13: Using CC, k10.
Row 14 [WS]: Using CC, p10.
Rep Rows 1-14 for patt.

DIRECTIONS

BACK
With smaller needles for working flat and MC, CO 70[78, 86, 94, 102, 110, 118, 126, 134, 142] sts. Do not join.

Rib row 1 [WS]: P1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rib row 2 [RS]: K1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 3 more times, then rep Rib row 1 [WS] once more.

Change to larger needles.

Beg with a RS row and working in St st, work Back Stripe Pattern for 49[49, 49, 63, 63, 63, 63, 77, 77, 77] rows, making 7[7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] CC stripes.

Cut CC and work in St st with MC only until BACK measures 13[13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] inches / 33[34.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5] cm from cast-on, or desired length to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Begin armhole shaping:

Cont in St st with MC, shape armholes as foll:

Row 1 [RS]: BO 3[3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts, knit to end. 67[75, 82, 89, 97, 105, 112, 120, 127, 135] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: BO 3[3, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts, purl to end. 64[72, 78, 84, 92, 100, 106, 114, 120, 128] sts.
Row 3: BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, knit to end. 62[70, 75, 81, 89, 96, 102, 110, 116, 124] sts.
Row 4: BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, purl to end. 60[68, 72, 78, 86, 92, 98, 106, 112, 120] sts.

Decrease row [RS]: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Decrease row [WS]: P1, ssp, purl to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat last 2 rows 0[0, 0, 1, 3, 4, 4, 6, 7, 7] more times. 56[64, 68, 70, 70, 72, 78, 78, 80, 88] sts.

Rep Decrease row [RS].
Next row [WS]: Purl.
Repeat last 2 rows 0[3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 7] more times. 54[56, 58, 60, 60, 62, 64, 64, 66, 72] sts.

Work even in St st until armhole measures 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches / 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm, ending after a WS row.

Next row [RS]: K 16[17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19] , BO 22[22, 24, 26, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30, 34] sts, knit to end.
Place each set of 16[17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19] sts on holders for shoulders.

LEFT FRONT
With smaller needles, CO 34[38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70] sts.

Rib row 1 [WS]: P1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rib row 2 [RS]: K1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 3 more times, then work Rib row 1 [WS] once more.

Change to larger needles.

Begin intarsia pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: With MC, k 18[18, 19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 33, 35, 39] , pm, work Row 1 of Intarsia pattern over next 10 sts, pm, with MC, k 6[10, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 19, 21, 21] to end.

Cont working in St st with MC and Intarsia patt between markers as set until piece measures 13[13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] inches / 33[34.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5] cm or until work measures same as BACK to armhole, ending after a WS row.

Begin armhole and neck shaping:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts, patt to end. 30[34, 38, 41, 45, 49, 52, 56, 59, 63] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: Work even in patt.
Row 3: BO 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, patt to end. 27[31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 48, 52, 55, 59] sts.
Row 4: Work even in patt.

Neck and armhole dec row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 3[4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] more times. 19[21, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31] sts.

Neck dec row [RS]: Patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 2[3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11] more times. 16[17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19] sts.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches / 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm, ending after a RS row.

Shape shoulder:
Working in St st, work Short Row Shaping as foll:
Row 1 [WS]: Purl to last 6[5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts, w&t.
 Row 2 [RS]: Knit. 
Row 3 [WS]: Purl to 5[6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts before last wrap, w&t.
 Row 4 [RS]: Knit.
 Row 5 [WS]: Purl all sts, picking up wraps and working them with wrapped sts.
 Break yarn and place shoulder sts on holder.

RIGHT FRONT
With smaller needles, CO 34[38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70] sts.

Rib row 1 [WS]: P1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rib row 2 [RS]: K1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rep last 2 rows 3 more times, then work Rib row 1 [WS] once more.

Change to larger needles.

Begin intarsia pattern:
Row 1 [RS]: With MC, k 6[10, 13, 15, 16, 18, 19, 19, 21, 21] , pm, work Row 1 of Intarsia pattern over next 10 sts, pm, with MC, k 18[18, 19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 33, 35, 39] to end.

Begin armhole and neck shaping:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts, work to end of row, 30[34, 38, 41, 45, 49, 52, 56, 59, 63] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Work even in patt
Row 3 [WS]: BO 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] sts, patt to end. 27[31, 35, 38, 42, 45, 48, 52, 55, 59] sts.

Neck and armhole dec row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Even row: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 3[4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] more times. 19[21, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31] sts.

Neck dec row [RS]: K1, ssk, patt to end. 1 st decreased.
Even row [WS]: Work even in patt.
Repeat last 2 rows 2[3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11] more times. 16[17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18, 18, 19] sts.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches, 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm from bound off edge, ending on RS row.

Shape shoulder:
Working in St st, work Short Row Shaping as foll:
Row 1 [WS]: Purl.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit to last 6[5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7] sts, w&t.
Row 3 [WS]: Purl.
Row 4 [RS]: Knit to 5[6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] sts before last wrap, w&t.
Row 5 [WS]: Purl.
Row 6 [RS]: Knit all sts, picking up wraps and working them with wrapped sts. Break yarn and place shoulder sts on holder.

Join Shoulders
With WS facing, join FRONTS and BACK at shoulders using 3-Needle Bind Off.

Sew side seams.

SLEEVES

Shape sleeve cap:
Note: Due to small differences in back and front armhole shaping, your pickup rate for the front and back may need to be adjusted slightly.

With RS facing, using larger needles for working small circumference in the round and starting at center of underarm, pick up and knit 29[29, 32, 37, 37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 44] sts evenly to shoulder seam, pm, then pick up and knit 29[29, 32, 37, 37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 44] sts to center of underarm. Pm and join to work in the round. 58[58, 64, 74, 74, 76, 78, 80, 84, 88] sts.

Next row [RS]: Knit to shoulder marker, sl m, k 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10] , w&t.
Next row [WS]: P 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10] , sl m, p 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10] , w&t.

Next row [RS]: Knit to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st), w&t.
Next row [WS]: Purl back to wrapped st (picking up wrap with st), w&t.
Repeat last 2 rows 16[16, 15, 20, 20, 21, 18, 19, 21, 23] times more.

Cont to work St st in the round for 5 rounds, working rem wraps with wrapped sts.

Sleeve Decreases
Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Knit 5[5, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3] rnds.
Repeat last 6[6, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rnds 12[12, 15, 20, 18, 19, 18, 19, 21, 23] times more. 32[32, 32, 32, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40] sts.

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 15.5[16, 16.5, 17, 17.25, 17.25, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18] inches/ 39.5[40.5, 42, 43, 44, 44, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5] cm from underarm, or 1 inch / 2.5 cm shorter than desired total length.

Change to smaller needle(s).

Rib rnd: (K2, p2) to end.
Rep last rnd 7 times more.
BO in patt.

Repeat for second sleeve.

FINISHING

Buttonband
With RS facing, using CC and smaller long circ, and starting at lower right front corner, pick up and knit:
56[58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64, 66, 66, 68] sts up Right Front edge,
28[28, 31, 36, 35, 38, 37, 39, 40, 42] sts along Right Front neck,
20[20, 22, 24, 22, 24, 26, 26, 28, 32] sts along Back neck,
28[28, 31, 36, 35, 38, 37, 39, 40, 42] sts down Left Front neck, and
56[58, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64, 66, 66, 68] sts down Left Front edge.
188[192, 204, 220, 216, 228, 228, 236, 240, 252] total sts.

Rib row: (K2, p2) to end.

Using removable markers, mark placement of 6 buttonholes on Right Front, evenly spaced on RS.

Row 3 [buttonhole row; RS]: *Rib to next mrk, BO 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more, patt to end.

Row 4 [WS]: *Patt to BO on previous row, CO 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more, patt to end.

Row 5: Work in K2, P2 rib patt as est.

BO in rib patt.

Weave in remaining ends. Block seams and button band. Sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes.

A—Back width at chest (not including selvedge): 17[19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35] inches / 43[48.5, 53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5, 73.5, 78.5, 84, 89] cm
B—Body length: 13[13.5, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16] inches / 33[34.5, 35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5] cm
C—Cross back width: 13.5[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 18] inches / 13.5[14, 14.5, 15, 15, 15.5, 16, 16, 16.5, 18] cm
D—Armhole length: 6.5[6.5, 7.25, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5, 10] inches / 16.5[16.5, 18.5, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25.5] cm
E—Shoulder width: 4[4.25, 4.25, 4.25, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.75] inches / 10[11, 11, 11, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12] cm
F—Back neck width: 5.5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 8.5] inches / 14[14, 15, 16.5, 15, 16.5, 18, 18, 19, 21.5] cm
G—Front width at chest (not including selvedge or button band): 8.25[9.25, 10.25, 11.25, 12.25, 13.25, 14.25, 15.25, 16.25, 17.25] inches / 21[23.5, 26, 28.5, 31, 33.5, 36, 38.5, 41.5, 44] cm
H—Sleeve cap length: 6[6, 5.75, 7.25, 7.25, 7.75, 6.75, 7, 7.75, 8.25] inches / 15[15, 14.5, 18.5, 18.5, 19.5, 17, 18, 19.5, 21] cm
I—Upper arm circumference: 14.5[14.5, 16, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19.5, 20, 21, 22] inches / 37[37, 40.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 53.5, 56] cm
J—Wrist circumference (stretched): 8[8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10] inches / 20.5[20.5, 20.5, 20.5, 23, 23, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5] cm
K—Sleeve length: 16.5[17, 17.5, 18, 18.25, 18.25, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19] inches / 42[43, 44.5, 45.5, 46.5, 46.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Merri lives in St. Paul, Minnesota, where she spends her days doing a little bit of wellness coaching and a lot of dreaming about what she's going to knit next, while working on her current knitting project. As a resident of Minnesota, she feels knitting is a required life skill. She lives with her husband and the sweet but very needy cat, Quigley.

You'll find more of her work on Ravelry.