Ankylosaur Socks with "Everlasting Soles", a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com.

INTRODUCTION

Ankylosaur

beauty shot by Marcia Weinert

Piquant

A few years ago, as I cast about for a juicy name for a hyper-textured cowl I had designed, I asked my biochemist daughter — also a knitter — to recommend the name of a species of dinosaur that would bring to mind a heavily-spiked, almost armored beast.

"Well," she shrugged without glancing up, "Ankylosaur. But shouldn't that really be the name of a sock pattern??"

Thus it was that the Scolosaur Cowl was born—and simultaneously, the idea for these matching socks!

To make these top-down socks even more strongly armored, the entire sole can be reinforced with a strand of Woolly Nylon (often used with serger sewing machines) or a similarly stretchy sewing thread, carried along with the sock yarn. Better still: these socks have "everlasting soles," designed to be completely and repeatedly replaceable for the full life of the cuff and instep... just in case any Cro-Magnon spear (or heel) should inadvertently pierce it!

Following completion of the textured cuff (which could just as easily feature as holiday tree branches?), heel stitches are set aside and the instep is worked flat to create a flap. Then, using a long circular needle, a "Boundary Round" is worked: across the heel stitches, down one edge of the instep flap, across the live stitches at the toe end of the flap, and up the other side, back to the start of the heel. (This round also serves as the "boundary" to which one can rip back to create an entirely new sole!)

After this, an ordinary heel flap and turn are worked — however, after gusset stitches are picked up, the sole itself is worked back and forth, and each row is joined to one side of the instep flap, in the manner of an attached edging. When the entire sole has thus been joined to the instep, one resumes working in the round to create an ordinary wedge toe.

Should a random Cro-Magnon spear (or human toe) wreak havoc, one need only snip open the tip of the toe and rip back as far as desired: replace just the toe, or the toe and sole to just past that hole under the ball of the foot — or even all the way back to the very start of the heel flap! Unlike those extinct dinos, these soles will make your socks truly "everlasting"! ROOOAAARRR!!

spacer photos: Elizabeth Kwiatkowski

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, XL]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Foot Circumference: 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 9] inches/ 18[19, 20, 21.5, 23] cm
Foot Length: adjustable
Leg length: adjustable

Choose a size approximately 1 inch/2.5 cm smaller around than your foot measured at the ball of the foot.

MATERIALS

Yarn
Spun Right Round Classic Sock [100% superwash Merino; 438 yds/400.5m per 3.53 oz/100 g skein]; color: Lagoon; 1[1, 1, 1, 2] skeins
Scrap yarn: 4 yds/3.5m in complementary colorway for Boundary Round [A complementary colorway may also be used to work the entire Sole, if desired. If you choose to do this, it reduces the yardage of the main color by half, and you'll need the same amount for the complementary colorway.]

Yarn Characteristics
The sample shown uses a fingering-weight classic sock yarn. The pattern stitch looks best in a solid or nearly-solid colour, and with smoother yarns; avoid busy variegated colorways and yarns with a lot of fuzz.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
US #0/2mm circular needle, 32 inches/80 cm or longer
Optional: US #0/2mm needles for small circumference in the round.
Note: Although the Cuff, Instep Flap and Toe can be worked on your preference of needles for small circumference, the unusual construction of the Sole requires it to be worked using the magic loop technique, to accommodate large stitch counts.

Notions
ThreadArt Wooly Nylon or other reinforcing thread in matching or contrasting color, if desired [Shown: color 9145, Cadet Blue]
5 stitch markers, including two matching pairs in contrasting colors
yarn needle

GAUGE

38 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
38 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches/10 cm in Instep Flap pattern

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Construction method: The cuff is knit, then heel stitches are set aside and the instep is worked flat to create a flap. Next a "Boundary Round" is worked: across the heel stitches, down one edge of the instep flap, across the live stitches at the toe end of the flap, and up the other side, back to the start of the heel. Then an ordinary heel flap and turn are worked. After gusset stitches are picked up, the sole itself is worked back and forth, and each row is joined to one side of the instep flap. When the entire sole has thus been joined to the instep, one resumes working in the round to create an ordinary wedge toe.

All slipped sts are slipped purlwise.

M1: Make a backwards (e-wrap) loop and place it on the right needle; 1 st increased.
CDD: Slip 2 sts together, as if for k2tog, k1, then pass the 2 sts over the st just knit. 2 sts decreased.

Techniques:

Picking up stitches
Grafting stockinette stitches (video tutorial) ("Kitchener" stitch photo tutorial )

CHARTS

View and download CHARTs here:
sizes XS-M | large | xl

DIRECTIONS

Cuff
Using your preferred stretchy method, CO 68[72, 76, 80, 84] sts. Note or mark start of round and join for working in the round.

Cuff round: Work Cuff chart for appropriate size 4 times around.
Work as set until you have completed three full repeats of the Cuff chart.

Instep Flap
Setup, size S only: K2 then slip these sts to the last needle of the round.

Row 1 [RS]: K 33[33, 37, 37, 41] , slp 1 wyif, turn. The instep will be worked on these sts only; rearrange as you prefer and place the rem 34[38, 38, 42, 42] sts on hold for the heel.

Row 2, Size XS only: K1tbl, k3, p1, k7, p1, k8, p1, k7, p1, k3, slp 1 wyif, turn.
Row 2, Size S only: K1tbl, k2, p1, (k8, p1) three times, k2, slp 1 wyif, turn.
Row 2, Size M only: K1tbl, k3, p1, k9, p1, k8, p1, k9, p1, k3, slp 1 wyif, turn.
Row 2, Size L only: K1tbl, k2, p1, (k9, p1) three times, k3, slp 1 wyif, turn.
Row 2, Size XL only: K1tbl, k4, p1, k9, p1, k10, p1, k9, p1, k4, slp 1 wyif, turn.

Row 3 [RS]: K 33[33, 37, 37, 41] , slp 1 wyif, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3, 17[20, 23, 26, 29] more times. Break yarn, leaving 6 inch/15cm tail.

These sts will be referred to as the "Toe Edge" in the instructions below.

Boundary Round
This "Boundary Round" sets up the sock so that the sole can be removed and replaced (see above). A length of contrasting yarn is used for this round to draw a fence around the portion of the sock that will never need to be replaced. Everything following this round can be replaced, in order to renew the entire sole if desired.

With RS facing, join complementary scrap yarn (and reinforcing thread, if desired) at start of Heel. If you're using another needle setup, change to the long circular needle and work this portion using the magic loop method.

Boundary Round: K 34[34, 38, 42, 42] across Heel sts; pull out the loop at this spot; pick up and knit 18[21, 24, 27, 30] sts down first edge of Instep Flap to Toe Edge; this position marks the break between instep and sole sts – place first Instep marker; knit across 17[17, 19, 19, 21] Instep Flap sts and place a distinct marker here for center of instep; knit across rem 17[17, 19, 19, 21] Instep Flap sts, this position marks the break between instep and sole sts – place second Instep marker; pick up and knit 18[21, 24, 27, 30] sts up second edge of Instep Flap, towards the Heel sts. Break complementary scrap yarn, leaving 6 inch/15 cm tail.
104[114, 124, 134, 144] sts – the first 34[34, 38, 42, 42] sts are for the Heel, and the breaks in the needle/loops of your magic loop will be positioned at either end of them. The stitches are unequally divided at this point, but it will make working the heel simpler.

On the other side of the needle there will be 18[21, 24, 27, 30] sts along the first side of the instep flap, 34[34, 38, 42, 42] sts between the markers for the instep, opposite to the Heel sts, and another 18[21, 24, 27, 30] sts along the second side of the Instep flap.

Heel Flap
With RS facing, join Sole yarn (and reinforcing thread, if desired) at current start of round, which is the start of the Heel sts.

Row 1 [RS]: (Slp 1, k1) 17[17, 19, 21, 21] times, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Slp 1, p to end, turn.
Work Rows 1-2 12[13, 14, 15, 16] more times.

Heel Turn
Row 1 [RS]: Slp 1, k 18[18, 20, 22, 22] , SSK, k1, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Slp 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Slp 1, k6, SSK (one stitch each side of gap), k1, turn.
Row 4: Slp 1, p7 (one st each side of gap), p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Slp 1, k to 1 st before gap, SSK, k1, turn.
Row 6: Slp 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 5-6 until all sts have been worked; do not turn after last row. 20[20, 22, 24, 24] sts rem.

Gussets
This section is worked flat and joined to sides of Instep Flap with a decrease at end of each row, as in the manner of an attached edging.

You will be positioned at the end of the Heel sts, with the WS facing. In the following rows, you will rearrange the stitches somewhat, placing markers and shifting the loop of your magic loop setup.

Row 1 [WS]: Pick up and purl 13[14, 15, 16, 17] sts up the first edge of the Heel Flap, place a marker (this is the first Sole marker), p2tog, turn. 1 st at side of Instep flap decreased/joined.
Row 2 [RS]: Slp 1, sm, k 23[24, 26, 28, 29] (to midpoint of heel sts), and pull out the loop of the needle at this point; knit across rem 10[10, 11, 12, 12] sts (to next heel flap gap), pick up and knit 13[14, 15, 16, 17] sts up the second edge of the Heel Flap, place a marker (this is the second Sole marker), ssk, turn. 46[48, 52, 56, 58] sts between Sole markers. 1 st at side of Instep flap decreased/joined.

In the following rows, decreases continue at the end of each row, on the Instep side of the Sole markers, to join the Sole to the Instep Flap. On RS rows only, you will also work gusset decreases between the Sole markers. To make handling the large stitch counts easier, pull out one loop of your magic loop at the center of the instep – there is a marker here; the second loop/needle break is in the middle of the heel/sole sts. Each row worked below will "cross" the needle break/loop in the middle of the sole.

Row 3: Slp 1, sm, p to marker, sm, p2tog, turn.
Row 4, Gusset Decrease Row: Slp 1, sm, k1, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, sm, SSK, turn. 2 gusset sts decreased.
Repeat Rows 3-4 5[4, 6, 6, 7] more times. 34[38, 38, 42, 42] sts rem between Sole markers.

Foot/Sole
Row 1 [WS]: Slp 1, sm, p to Sole marker, sm, p2tog, turn.
Row 2 [RS]: Slp 1, sm, k to Sole marker, sm, SSK, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2 8[12, 13, 16, 18] more times, until 2 sts per side remain between Sole and Instep markers. 72[76, 80, 84, 88] sts.

Rejoining Round:
Slp 1, remove Sole marker, k across Sole to 1 st before Sole marker, slp 1, remove Sole marker, replace slipped st onto L needle and k2tog; this position is the new midpoint of the round, pull out the loop at this point; slp 1, remove Instep marker, replace slipped st onto L needle and work ssk on the next 2 sts, k across Instep to 1 st before next marker, slp 1, remove Instep marker, replace slipped st onto L needle and k2tog. This position is the new start of round. 69[73, 77, 81, 85] sts.
Final Sole Decrease Round: Ssk, knit to end. 68[72, 76, 80, 84] sts.

Final Part of Foot
Note: if you prefer, at this point you can change to any needle arrangement for working small circumference in the round. Make sure that you're able to identify the midpoint of the round – that is, the break between the instep and the sole – so that you are setup for the toe decreases, either by arranging your sts on the needles, or placing markers. The start of the round is at the end of the instep/start of the sole.
Knit even until sock measures 1.75[2, 2.25, 2.25, 2.5] inches/ 4.5[5, 6, 6, 6.5] cm short of desired finished sock length.

Toe
Round 1 (Decrease Round): (K1, SSK, k to 3 sts before the end of the half, k2tog, k1) twice. 4 sts decreased.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 sts rem, then work Round 1 once more. 20 sts rem.
Break yarn, leaving a 12 inch/30 cm tail. Thread tail onto yarn needle, and graft toe sts tog.

FINISHING

Weave in ends, taking care not to take yarn tails across the Boundary Round. Wash to block.

To Replace Sole
Holes in toes or heel can be darned as usual. If the entire Sole needs to be replaced (or if you find this easier), simply snip off half an inch/about a cm of the tip of the Toe, and unravel yarn (recovering nylon reinforcing thread as you work, if desired) to the contrasting stitches of the Boundary Round at the end of the Instep Flap.Place live sts from the Boundary Round at end of Instep onto a circular needle as you work.Place an Instep marker at each end of 34[34, 38, 38, 42] Instep sts. Continue to rip back Sole sts, placing 18[21, 24, 27, 30] Boundary Round sts from each side of the Instep Flap onto the circular needle as you work. Place a Sole marker on each side. Finally, rip back the Heel Flap to the Boundary Round sts, catching 34[34, 38, 42, 42] Boundary Round Heel sts on your circular needle as you work.

Work an entirely new Sole as described above, beginning with the Heel Flap.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Marcia Weinert is a wool handler, classer, broker and yarn designer for NYS shepherds, as well as a knitwear designer. She teaches and adjudicates spinning, knitting, felting, and crochet in many outlets across the northeast, especially the Weaving & Fiber Arts Center in Rochester, NY. She strives to translate instruction into methods that best serve and make sense to the individuals crafting any given project, and encourages her students to reach beyond particular techniques into the arena of their own creativity. This one's for Clara!