Knitty: Surface - Winter 2008

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by Norah Gaughan

Highly dimensional surface texture, blistery texture (in the nicest sense) trim this basic cardigan transforming it into something not so very plain at all.

The bobbly texture comes from increases and
decreases, propelled by the extra boost of stitches elongated by dropping YOs.

Don't worry about shaping in the pattern stitch. All of
the textured bits are rectangular.

An optional wrap gives a sense of multiple layers. Secured firmly to the front buttons and one shoulder, it's no fuss drama. Well, drama in my sense of the word. Is there such a thing as low-key drama?

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Hip: 32[36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56] inches
Length: 22[22.5, 24, 24.5, 25, 26, 27] inches

MATERIALS

Berroco Pure Merino DK [100% wool; 126yd/115m per 50g skein]; color: #4574 Chocolate; 10[11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21] skeins for cardigan , 4[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8] skeins for wrap

Recommended needle size:

1 set US #3/3.25mm straight needles

1 set US #5/3.75mm straight needles

1 US #F/5 / 3.75mm crochet hook
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Safety pins or waste yarn

Yarn needle

5 buttons, 1 inch diameter

GAUGE

23 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles
22 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in Blister Pattern using larger needles

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

kfbfb: Knit into front, then back, then front again, then back again, of next st: 1 st increased to 4 sts.

p4tog: Purl 4 sts together: 4 sts decreased to 1 st.

2x2 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):
Row 1 [WS]: [P2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [RS]: [K2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2x2 Rib.

2x1 Rib (Worked over a multiple of 3 sts + 2):
Row 1 [WS]: [K2, p1] to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 [RS]: [P2, k1] to last 2 sts, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 2x1 Rib.

Blister Pattern (Worked over a multiple of 6 sts + 2):
Row 1 [RS]: P2, [kfbfb, p2, k1, p2] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, [p1, k2, (k1, yo) 4 times, k2] to end.
Row 3 [RS]: P2, [(k1, drop yo from needle) 4 times, p2, k1, p2] to end.
Rows 4-5: Work as for Rows 2-3.
Row 6 [WS]: K2, [p1, k2, p4tog, k2] to end.
Row 7 [RS]: P2, [k1, p2, kfbfb, p2] to end.
Row 8 [WS]: K2, [(k1, yo) 4 times, k2, p1, k2] to end.
Row 9 [RS]: P2, [k1, p2, (k1, drop yo from needle) 4 times, p2] to end.
Rows 10-11: Work as for Rows 8-9.
Row 12 [WS]: K2, [p4tog, k2, p1, k2] to end.
Repeat Rows 1-12 for Blister Pattern.

Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.

DIRECTIONS

CARDIGAN

BACK
Using smaller needles, CO 102[114, 126, 138, 150, 166, 178] sts.

Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Switching to larger needles, k5[7, 8, 10, 8, 7, 6], k2tog, [k8(9, 10, 11, 10, 8, 9), k2tog] 9[9, 9, 9, 11, 15] times, k5[6, 8, 9, 8, 7, 5]. 92[104, 116, 128, 138, 150, 162] sts.

Work 9[9, 13, 13, 13, 13, 17] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows 6 times more. 78[90, 102, 114, 124, 136, 148] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 11.5[11.5, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Increase Row [RS]: K3, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. 86[98, 110, 122, 132, 144, 156] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 15[15, 16, 16, 16, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 78[90, 102, 114, 124, 136, 148] sts.
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 72[84, 96, 108, 118, 130, 142] sts.
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2[2, 4, 6, 8, 8, 10] rows. 68[80, 88, 96, 102, 114, 122] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 6, 7, 7, 10, 11] times more. 64[70, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 21.5[22, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5] inches (6.5[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping), ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
BO 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts at beginning of next 6 rows.
BO remaining 34[34, 38, 38, 38, 44, 44] sts.

LEFT FRONT
Using smaller needles, CO 50[54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 82] sts.
Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: Switching to larger needles, k4[7, 7, 5, 9, 9, 5], k2tog, [k6(11, 12, 9, 15, 16, 8), k2tog] 5[3, 3, 5, 3, 3, 7] times, k4[6, 7, 4, 8, 9, 5]. 44[50, 54, 60, 66, 70, 74] sts.

Work 9[9, 13, 13, 13, 13, 17] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.

Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to end.
Work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows 6 times more. 37[43, 47, 53, 59, 63, 67] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 11.5[11.5, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Increase Row [RS]: K3, m1, k to end.
Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. 41[47, 51, 57, 63, 67, 71] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 15[15, 16, 16, 16, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a WS row.

Note: Read ahead! For some sizes, neckline shaping begins before armhole shaping ends; for others, neckline shaping and shoulder shaping are worked at the same time.

Shape Armhole:
Row 1 [RS]: BO 4 sts, k to end. 37[43, 47, 53, 59, 63, 67] sts.
Row 2 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: BO 3 sts, k to end. 34[40, 44, 50, 56, 60, 64] sts.
Row 4 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 5 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. 32[38, 42, 48, 54, 58, 62] sts.
Repeat Rows 4-5 0[0, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more. 32[38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54] sts.

P 1 row.
Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 6, 7, 7, 10, 11] times more. 30[33, 33, 36, 40, 41, 42] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17.5[17.5, 19, 19, 19, 20, 21] inches (2.5[2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3.5, 4] inches from beginning of underarm), ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline:
At front edge, mark first row of neckline shaping using safety pin or waste yarn.
Decrease Row [RS]: K to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 14[14, 14, 14, 15, 16, 14] times more. 15[18, 18, 21, 24, 24, 27] sts.

AT THE SAME TIME: Shape shoulders as directed below when work measures 21.5[22, 23.5, 24, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5] inches (6.5[7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5] inches from beginning of armhole shaping), ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
Next Row [RS]: BO 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, k to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Using smaller needles, CO 50[54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 82] sts.
Work in 2x2 Rib until work measures 2.5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Decrease Row [RS]: K to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
Work 5 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 6 rows 6 times more. 37[43, 47, 53, 59, 63, 67] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 11.5[11.5, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Increase Row [RS]: K to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows 3 times more. 41[47, 51, 57, 63, 67, 71] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 15[15, 16, 16, 16, 16.5, 17] inches, ending with a RS row.

Note: Read ahead! For some sizes, neckline shaping begins before armhole shaping ends; for others, neckline shaping and shoulder shaping are worked at the same time.

Shape Armhole:
Row 1 [WS]: BO 4 sts, p to end. 37[43, 47, 53, 59, 63, 67] sts.
Row 2 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 3 [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end. 34[40, 44, 50, 56, 60, 64] sts.
Row 4 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 5 [WS]: BO 2 sts, p to end. 32[38, 42, 48, 54, 58, 62] sts.
Repeat Rows 4-5 0[0, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4] times more. 32[38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[4, 6, 7, 7, 10, 11] times more. 30[33, 33, 36, 40, 41, 42] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 17.5[17.5, 19, 19, 19, 20, 21] inches (2.5[2.5, 3, 3, 3, 3.5, 4] inches from beginning of underarm), ending with a WS row.

Shape Neckline:
At front edge, mark first row of neckline shaping using safety pin or waste yarn.
Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 14[14, 14, 14, 15, 16, 14] times more. 15[18, 18, 21, 24, 24, 27] sts.

Shape Shoulders:
Next Row [WS]: BO 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts, p to end.
K 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. BO remaining 5[6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9] sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using larger needles, CO 62[68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98] sts.
Work in Blister Pattern until work measures 6 inches, ending with a Row 6 or 12 of pattern.

Next Row [RS]: ~~Switching to larger needles~~ K8[8, 9, 7, 7, 8, 8], k2tog, [k13(15, 16, 11, 12, 13, 14), k2tog] 3[3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5] times, k7[7, 9, 6, 7, 7, 8]. 58[64, 70, 74, 80, 86, 92] sts.

Work 5 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row.
Increase Row [RS]: K3, m1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k3.
Repeat these 6 rows twice more. 64[70, 76, 80, 86, 92, 98] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 9 inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 58[64, 70, 74, 80, 86, 92] sts.
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 54[60, 66, 70, 76, 82, 88] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K3, k2tog, k to last 5 sts, ssk, k3.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 15[17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27] times more. 22[24, 26, 26, 28, 30, 32] sts.

BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 18[20, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28] sts.
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. BO remaining 12[14, 16, 16, 18, 20, 22] sts.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block pieces.
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams.

Left Front Band:
With RS facing, using smaller needles and beginning at marked row (beginning of neckline shaping), pick up and k 4 sts for every 5 rows along left front edge, ending at lower edge. Count sts; in first row, increase or decrease 1 st if necessary to achieve a multiple of 3 sts + 2.
Work in 2x1 Rib until band measures 1.25 inches. BO all sts in pattern.

Right Front Band:
Use pins or waste yarn to mark locations of 4 buttons along right front edge, placing the first approx. 1 inch below marked row, and spacing others approx. 3[3, 3, 3.25, 3.25, 3.5, 3.5] inches apart.
With RS facing, using smaller needles and beginning lower right front edge, pick up and k 4 sts for every 5 rows along left front edge, ending at marked row. Count sts to ensure that you have the same number as for the left front band.
Work in 2x1 Rib until band measures 0.5 inch, ending with a WS row.
Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: [Work in pattern to location of button, BO 2 sts] 4 times, work in pattern to end.
Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: [Work in pattern to location of button, CO 2 sts] 4 times, work in pattern to end.
Continue in pattern until band measures 1.25 inches. BO all sts in pattern.

Sew buttons to left front band, opposite buttonholes.

Collar:
Using larger needles, CO 116[116, 122, 122, 128, 128, 134] sts.

Work in Blister Pattern until work measures 8[8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] inches, ending with Row 6 or 12 of pattern. BO all sts in pattern.

Sew BO edge of collar to neckline of cardigan. For the sweater shown, the seam was placed at the inside of the sweater, but placing it to the outside works equally well, depending on how you intend to wear the collar.

If working the wrap, sew a fifth button to the right shoulder seam on the RS, at the point where the shoulder seam meets the collar.

WRAP
Using larger needles, CO 230[230, 242, 242, 254, 254, 266] sts.

Work in Blister Pattern until work measures 8[8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11] inches, ending with Row 6 or 12 of pattern.

Work in 2x1 Rib until work measures 10[10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13] inches. BO all sts in pattern.

Fold upper 2 inches (ribbed band) to WS of work, and tack down at each edge and every 10-12 inches along edge. Folded edge is upper edge of wrap.

Beginning at lower corner of right edge of wrap, work 1 row single crochet along right edge, working a crochet chain button loop at the upper corner. (Wrap chain around button to determine length of loop.) Work several more sts at top of loop and weave in end securely.

Work 1 row single crochet along left front edge, working 3 button loops. Place first button loop at upper corner, second loop at center of left edge, and third at lower corner. Weave in ends.

To wear wrap, put on cardigan and button closed. With ribbed band at top edge, button left edge of wrap to top 3 buttons of cardigan. Wind wrap around shoulders and fasten loop at upper right corner to button on right shoulder.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Norah Gaughan is the design director at Berroco. Her newest self-titled volume, NG volume 4, is due out in January 2009.

Norah shares the Berroco design studio blog with designer Cirilia Rose. Catch up with them at blog.berroco.com.