Skew sock - Knitty: Winter 2009

by Lana Holden

Skew takes the concept of the bias design element to a new extreme by turning the entire architecture of the sock, including the heel, on the diagonal. Rather than attempt to compensate for the non-squareness of stockinette stitch, I chose to exploit it, resulting in delightfully anatomically correct toes followed by an innovative heel shaping which continues the diagonal flow of the stitches without interruption. This heel requires neither short rows nor picking up stitches, but it does require a little bit of faith until the origami moment when a short grafted seam transforms an unfamiliarly-shaped object into a finished heel. A fair amount of high-school algebra and geometry was resurrected for the design process, but the knitter only needs to be able to count.

Don’t let the clean stockinette swaths fool you; the unconventional shaping will keep you on your toes!

photos: Richard Layton

SIZE
One size. Sock model wears US women’s shoe size 8.5

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot Circumference: 7.5 inches, unstretched
Length: 9.5 inches
Leg height: 6.25 inches

MATERIALS
Yarn
Claudia Handpainted [100% merino wool; 175 yd per 50g skein]; color: Oops!; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
2 US #1/2.25 mm 24 inch circular needles for two-circular method
OR
1 40 inch US#1/2.25 mm circular needle for Magic Loop method

2 US #1/2.25 mm dpns

2 US #0/2.0 mm 24 inch circular needles
OR
1 40 inch #0/2.0 mm circular needle (for ribbing only)

Notions
Yarn needle
Stitch markers – at least two different styles or colors

GAUGE

31 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

LLinc: Left-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this stitch.

RLinc: Right-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your right needle, from front to back, under the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. Transfer this stitch to your left needle and knit into the front of it.

K3tog: Knit next 3 stitches together.

SSSK: Slip next 3 stitches one at a time as if to knit, insert the left-hand needle into the fronts of those three stitches, and knit them together.

COR: Center of Round. (You may choose to divide the stitches between the two needles at this point instead of using a marker.)

Notes: Handpainted or self-striping yarns are particularly suitable for this design, as they will highlight the unusual stitch direction flow.

The use of dpns is not recommended: since increases and decreases occur on opposite sides of the foot, frequent redistribution of stitches would be necessary. In addition, there are up to 102 stitches on the needles at one time.

Although the main portions of the foot and leg are worked on 72 stitches, because they are turned diagonally, the fit of this sock is comparable to a 60-stitch traditional sock circumference at the same gauge. Heel fit is similar to a short-row heel with mini-gussets.

Instructions are the same for both left and right socks except for the heel and decrease mini-gusset sections.

There are various markers with different purposes – different colors or styles will help you keep track.

DIRECTIONS

Big Toe
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 12 sts total (6 per needle), then knit across one needle only.

(If you prefer to use Turkish or figure-eight cast on method, wrap needles 6 times; k loops off each needle once.) You now have 12 sts total, with one row of sts visible between the needles on the knit (smooth) side. Mark this point as beg of rnd.

Note: Round begins at outside edge of foot, with first half of stitches forming instep for left sock or second half of stitches forming instep for right sock.

Round 1: K2, LLinc, k2, RLinc, k2, place COR marker (sl marker on subsequent rnds), k2, LLinc, k2, RLinc, k2. 16 sts.
Round 2: K.
Round 3: K2, LLinc, k to 2 sts before COR marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k until 2 stitches remain, RLinc, k2. 4 sts increased.
Round 4: K.

Repeat these two rounds until you have 48 sts.

Mid toe:
Round 1: K to last 2 sts before COR marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to end.
Round 2: K.
Repeat these two rounds 11 times more: 72 sts.

Foot:
Round 1: K1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before COR marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1.
Round 2: K.

Repeat these two rounds until work measures 7.5 inches (or 2 inches less than desired foot length) along long side from corner of big toe (stretch edge slightly if necessary so that stockinette is undistorted). At correct round gauge, that’s approximately 14 more repeats.

Inner ankle
Note: Stitches created between new markers at inner ankle will become back leg stitches when heel is complete.

Round 1: K1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before COR marker, (RLinc, k1) twice, sl marker, (k1, LLinc) twice, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 2: K.
Round 3: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts before COR marker, RLinc, k2, place first ankle marker, RLinc, k1, sl COR marker, k1, LLinc, place second ankle marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 4: K.
Round 5: K1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, sl COR marker, RLinc, k2, sl second ankle marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 6: K.

Round 7: K1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 8: K.
Repeat Rounds 7 and 8 twice more: 84 sts total, with 12 sts total between ankle markers (6 on either side of COR marker).

Increase mini-gusset:
Round 1: K to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to end. 4 sts increased.
Round 2: K.
Round 3 (Same as Round 7 of previous section): K1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3sts, SSK, k1. 2 sts increased.
Round 4: K.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 twice more. 102 sts total, with 24 sts total between ankle markers (12 on either side of COR marker).

Heel shaping (LEFT SOCK ONLY):
(For right sock, skip to section labeled “Heel shaping (RIGHT SOCK ONLY)”.)

Round 1: K to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k10, SSK, k1, place heel marker (sl marker on subsequent rounds), k1, k2tog, k to end. (Note: there will be 15 sts between second ankle marker and heel marker throughout heel shaping.)
Round 2: K.
Round 3: K1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to 3 sts before heel marker, SSK, k1, sl marker, k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1.
Round 4: K.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 once more, then Rounds 1-3 once: 15 sts remain between heel marker and end of round.

Heel joining round (origami moment): In this round, you will move the COR to the current location of the first ankle marker, remove the second ankle marker and heel marker, and graft the heel.

K to first ankle marker and remove it. This will now become the new COR position – if you’ve got removable stitch markers, place your COR marker here. If your stitch markers are the closed kind, place a new marker for COR. Knit around to existing COR and remove marker if necessary; knit around to second ankle marker, and remove it; 30 sts remain to end of round. Transfer next 15 sts (up to heel marker) to a dpn and remaining 15 sts to another dpn. With a separate length of yarn (about a yard), Kitchener stitch the two sets of 15 sts together.

There will remain 42 sts before new COR for front leg, 36 sts after new COR for back leg.

Note: There will be a hole at the top of the heel where the Kitchener stitch seam ends. Do NOT pick up extra stitches to close the hole; this will break the structural lines. Use tail of seaming yarn later to close the hole.

Decrease mini-gusset (LEFT SOCK ONLY):
Round 1: K1, k3tog, k to last 2 sts before (new) COR, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1. One mini-gusset stitch has been decreased.
Round 2: K.
Round 3: K1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before COR, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1.
Round 4: K.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 4 times more, then rnds 1-2 once: 36 sts before COR and 36 sts after COR.
Continue with instructions for Leg.

Heel shaping (RIGHT SOCK ONLY):
Round 1: K 21, SSK, k 1, place heel marker, k1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to end. (There will be 15 sts between heel marker and first ankle marker throughout heel shaping.)

Round 2: K.

Round 3: K1, K2tog, K to 3 sts before heel marker, SSK, k 1, sl marker, k1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1.
Round 4: K.
Round 5: K to 3 sts before heel marker, SSK, k 1, sl marker, k1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before first ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to COR, sl marker, k to 2 sts before second ankle marker, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to end.
Round 6: K.
Repeat Rounds 3-6 once more, then rnd 3 once: 15 sts remain between the beginning of the round and the heel marker.

Heel joining round: As with left sock, you will be moving the COR position (this time, to the current location of the second ankle marker), removing all other markers, and grafting the heel.

Transfer first 15 sts (up to heel marker) to one dpn and next 15 sts (up to first ankle marker) to another dpn. With a separate length of yarn (about a yard), Kitchener stitch the two sets of 15 sts together. K to second ankle marker, removing old COR marker as you go. Place new COR marker at this point. Knit to end of round.

There will remain 36 sts before COR for back leg, 42 sts after COR for front leg.

Note: There will be a hole at the top of the heel where the Kitchener stitch seam ends. Do NOT pick up extra stitches to close the hole; this will break the structural lines. Use tail of seaming yarn later to close the hole.

Decrease mini-gusset (RIGHT SOCK ONLY):
Round 1: K1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before (new) COR, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 4 sts, SSSK, k1. One mini-gusset stitch has been decreased.
Round 2: K.
Round 3: K1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before COR, RLinc, k2, sl marker, k2, LLinc, k to last 3 sts, SSK, k1.
Round 4: K.
Repeats Rounds 1-4 four times more, then rnd 1 once: 36 sts before COR and 36 sts after COR.
(Note: to add length to the leg, repeat rnds 2 and 3 as many times as desired.)

Continue with instructions for Leg.

Leg (both right and left socks):
Note: leg is worked using short rows. Each pair of short rows begins and ends at the current beginning of round, and does NOT cross the COR.

You will find it helpful if your sts are arranged so that the sts between start of round and COR are on one needle, and sts from COR to end of round are on a second.

Short row pair one (set-up row) needle 1: K35 (until 1 st remains before COR), turn; with WS facing, slp 1, p31 (to last 3 sts before beg of rnd), p2tog, p1, do not turn.

Short row pair two - needle 2: Continuing with WS facing, p35 (until 1 st remains before COR), turn; with RS facing, slp 1, k31 (to last 3 sts before beg of rnd), SSK, k1, do not turn.

Short row pair 3: Continuing with RS facing, k32 (until 2 sts remain before gap from previous turning), turn; with WS facing, slp 1, p28 (to last 3 sts on before beg of rnd), p2tog, p1, do not turn.

Short row pair 4: Continuing with WS facing, p32 (until 2 sts remain before gap from previous turning), turn; with RS facing, slp 1, k28 (to last 3 sts before beg of rnd), SSK, k1, do not turn.

Short row pair 5: K29, turn; slp 1, p25, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 6: P29, turn; slp 1, k25, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 7: K26, turn; slp 1, p22, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 8: P26, turn; slp 1, k22, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 9: K23, turn; slp 1, p19, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 10: P23, turn; slp 1, k19, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 11: K20, turn; slp 1, p16, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 12: P20, turn; slp 1, k16, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 13: K17, turn; slp 1, p13, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 14: P17, turn; slp 1, k13, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 15: K14, turn; slp 1, p10, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 16: P14, turn; slp 1, k10, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 17: K11, turn; slp 1, p7, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 18: P11, turn; slp 1, k7, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 19: K8, turn; slp 1, p4, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 20: P8, turn; slp 1, k4, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 21: K5, turn; slp 1, p1, p2tog, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 22: P5, turn; slp 1, k1, SSK, k1, do not turn.
Short row pair 23: K2, turn; slp 1, p1, do not turn.
Short row pair 24: P2, turn; slp 1, k1, do not turn. 50 sts.

Ribbing
Switch to smaller size needles and begin working in the round again.

First set-up round: K2, [LLinc, k2] to COR, sl marker, [k2, RLinc] to last 2 sts, k1, transfer last st to beg of round. 74 sts.
Second set-up round: P2tog, k2, [p1, k2] to last st before COR, sl 1, remove marker, transfer slipped st back to left needle, p2tog, k2, [p1, k2] to end. 72 sts.

Ribbing round: [P1, k2] around.
Repeat Ribbing round for 1.5 inches. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends, using seaming tails to close holes at tops of heels.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername The designer has two math degrees and is a contributing author of the book Making Mathematics with Needlework, but dropped out of grad school twice because she prefers to do research with yarn. She is a technique junkie, a process knitter, and occasionally a machine for turning coffee into socks.

She lives in rural Indiana with her crocheter/mathematician husband, housemate, and more cats than strictly necessary, and in her spare time she rocks out as singer and keyboard player for the band Whisper Down. You can reach the designer via her blog or as named4wool on Ravelry.