Inspired by a vintage 1920s pattern, Zora is a smart cardigan that features an open shawl collar and the long lines typical of the Jazz Age. Just like its namesake, the intrepid American author and folklorist Zora Neale Hurston, this cardigan is relaxed yet sophisticated in any setting.

As versatile as it is snappy, Zora can be worn with a shawl pin or brooch, belted, or just worn open for a more casual look. A slight flare at the hips is flattering to the curvy figure, and a wide section of ribbing at the waist provides the cardigan with a bit of thoroughly modern tailoring.

Don't be afraid of the finer gauge -- Zora knits up surprisingly quickly, and the lace pattern is deceptively easy to memorize.

Knit in a light but warm and luscious wool/silk blend with vivacious color and a luxurious drape, it makes a great layering piece that you can depend on year-round.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust: 34.75[37.5, 42.75, 45.5, 50.75, 53.5, 58.7] inches
Hip: 37.5[40, 45.5, 48, 53.5, 56, 61.5] inches
Length: 24[25, 26, 27, 27.5, 28.5, 29.5] inches
Note: Garment is intended to be worn with approx. 3-5 inches positive ease.

MATERIALS
Yarn
Madelinetosh Wren [50% merino wool, 50% silk; 365yd/333m per 100g skein]; color: Grasshopper; 3[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] skeins
Note: If substituting yarn, cardigan requires approx. 1,316[1,442, 1,645, 1,784, 1,973, 2,123, 2,359]yd / 1203[1319, 1505, 1631, 1804, 1941, 2157]m.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 US #3/3.25mm circular needle, 40 inches or longer
Note: If preferred, back, front, and sleeves can be knit using straight needles. Front band/collar will require a long circular needle due to large number of sts.

Notions
Yarn needle

GAUGE
24 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st and in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern
32 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in 2x2 Rib
24 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in garter st

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

When increasing and decreasing in pattern (when shaping sleeves and armholes, for example), there will be times when there are not enough sts to work a full Quatrefoil Eyelet motif. When this happens, work these sts in stockinette st instead.

DIRECTIONS

Hem Facing:
CO 114[122, 138, 146, 162, 170, 186] sts. Work in stockinette st until work measures 1 inch, ending with a WS row.

P 1 RS row, to form turning ridge for hem.

Lower Back:
Work in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern until work measures 4 inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row.

Note: When working in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern, first and last sts of each row are not counted in st pattern. Sl first st of row, work in pattern to last st, then k last st as set.

Shape Waist:
Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 106[114, 130, 138, 154, 162, 178] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9] inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row.

Waistband:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, p to last st, k1.
Row 2: Sl 1, [k2, p2] to last st, k1.
Row 2 forms 2x2 Rib pattern for waistband (both RS and WS rows are worked in the same way). Continue in 2x2 Rib until waistband measures 4 inches, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, p to last st, k1.

Work in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern until work measures 15.5[16, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.75, 18.5] inches from turning ridge or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 5[5, 8, 9, 12, 12, 15] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 96[104, 114, 120, 130, 138, 148] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[4, 7, 8, 11, 11, 14] times more. 86[94, 98, 102, 106, 114, 118] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7.5[8, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.25, 9.5] inches from beginning of underarm (work measures 23[24, 25, 25.75, 26, 27, 28] inches from turning ridge), ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
BO 3[2, 1, 4, 3, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 6[2, 2, 8, 2, 6, 2] rows. 74[90, 96, 70, 88, 100, 110] sts.
BO 4[5, 6, 5, 4, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 2[6, 6, 2, 10, 6, 10] rows.
BO remaining 60 sts.

CO 45[49, 57, 61, 69, 73, 81] sts. Work hem facing and turning ridge as for back.

Note: When working in pattern, first st of each RS row is not counted in st pattern. Sl first st of RS row, work in pattern to end.

Work in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern until work measures 4 inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row; for sizes XS, L and 1X only, see paragraph below before working this section.

Sizes XS, L and 1X Only:
Because Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern is worked over a multiple of 8 sts + 4, work pattern for lower front as follows:
Odd-numbered Rows 1-15 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit.
Row 4 [RS]: K3, [yo, ssk, k6] to last 9 sts, yo, ssk, k7.
Row 6 [RS]: K1, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] to last 11 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k6.
Row 8 [RS]: Work as for Row 4.
Row 10 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 12 [RS]: K7, [yo, ssk, k6] to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k3.
Row 14 [RS]: K5, [k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3] to last 7 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3.
Row 16 [RS]: Work as for Row 12.
Repeat Rows 1-16 for Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern.

All Sizes:
When work measures 4 inches from turning ridge, shape waist as follows:
Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 41[45, 53, 57, 65, 69, 77] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9] inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row.

Waistband:
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [K2, p2] to last st, k1.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, [k2, p2] to end.
Rows 2 and 3 form 2x2 Rib pattern for waistband. Continue in 2x2 Rib until waistband measures 4 inches, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, p to end.
Next Row [WS]: P to last st, k1. This row counts as Row 1 of Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern.

Note: Read ahead! Neckline and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.

Working in Quatrefoil Eyelet pattern, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 17 times more.

AT THE SAME TIME, when work measures same as back to underarm, ending with a WS row, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [RS]: BO 5[5, 8, 9, 12, 12, 15] sts, work in pattern to end.

Work 1 row in pattern.
Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[4, 7, 8, 11, 11, 14] times more.

When all neckline and armhole decreases have been worked, 13[17, 19, 21, 23, 27, 29] sts remain. Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulder:
BO 3[2, 1, 4, 3, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 3[1, 1, 4, 1, 3, 1] RS rows. 4[15, 18, 5, 20, 15, 25] sts.
BO 4[5, 6, 5, 4, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 1[3, 3, 1, 5, 3, 5] RS rows.

CO 45[49, 57, 61, 69, 73, 81] sts. Work hem facing and turning ridge as for back.

Work in Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern until work measures 4 inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row; for sizes XS, L and 1X only, work pattern as for right front.

Note: When working in pattern, last st of each RS row is not counted in st pattern. Work in pattern to last st, k1.

When work measures 4 inches from turning ridge, shape waist as follows:
Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 5[5, 7, 7, 7, 9, 9] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 6[6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10] rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 41[45, 53, 57, 65, 69, 77] sts.

Continue in pattern until work measures 7[7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9] inches from turning ridge, ending with a WS row.

Waistband:
Row 1 [RS]: P to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, [k2, p2] to end.
Row 3 [RS]: [K2, p2] to last st, k1.
Rows 2 and 3 form 2x2 Rib pattern for waistband. Continue in 2x2 Rib until waistband measures 4 inches, ending with a WS row.
Next Row [RS]: P to last st, k1.
Next Row [WS]: Sl 1, p to end. This row counts as Row 1 of Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern.

Note: Read ahead! Neckline and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.

Working in Quatrefoil Eyelet pattern, shape neckline as follows:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Kl 1, ssk, work in pattern to end.
Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 17 times more.

AT THE SAME TIME, when work measures same as back to underarm, ending with a RS row, shape armhole as follows:
Next Row [WS]: BO 5[5, 8, 9, 12, 12, 15] sts, work in pattern to end.

Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[4, 7, 8, 11, 11, 14] times more.

When all neckline and armhole decreases have been worked, 13[17, 19, 21, 23, 27, 29] sts remain. Continue in pattern until work measures same as back to beginning of shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.

Shape Shoulder:
BO 3[2, 1, 4, 3, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 3[1, 1, 4, 1, 3, 1] WS rows. 4[15, 18, 5, 20, 15, 25] sts.
BO 4[5, 6, 5, 4, 5, 5] sts at beginning of next 1[3, 3, 1, 5, 3, 5] WS rows.

Cuff:
CO 50[50, 58, 58, 58, 66, 66] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, [k2, p2] to last st, k1.
This row forms 2x2 Rib pattern for cuff (both RS and WS rows are worked in the same way). Continue in 2x2 Rib until cuff measures 4 inches, ending with a RS row.

Work Row 1 of Quatrefoil Eyelet Pattern. As for back, first and last sts of each row are not counted in st pattern.

Note: As written, sleeves are 17.5[18, 18.5, 19, 19.25, 19.25, 19.25] inches long. If you wish to shorten the sleeves by more than about 0.5 inch, work fewer rows between increase rows in the last half of the sleeve.

Increase Row [RS]: Sl 1, m1, work in pattern to last st, m1, k1.
Work 9[9, 7, 7, 5, 5, 5] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 10[10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6] rows 8[9, 10, 13, 17, 16, 9] times more, then work Increase Row once more. 70[72, 82, 88, 96, 102, 88] sts.

Size 3X Only:
Work 3 rows in pattern. Work Increase Row.
Repeat these 4 rows 10 times more. 110 sts.

All Sizes:
Work in pattern until sleeve measures 17.5[18, 18.5, 19, 19.25, 19.25, 19.25] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 5[5, 8, 9, 12, 12, 15] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 60[62, 66, 70, 72, 78, 80] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 6[6, 5, 6, 6, 9, 8] times more. 46[48, 54, 56, 58, 58, 62] sts.

Work Decrease Row. Work 3 rows in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 1[2, 4, 3, 4, 1, 2] times more. 42[42, 44, 46, 48, 54, 56] sts.

Work Decrease Row. Work 1 row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 8[8, 7, 8, 7, 10, 10] times more.
BO remaining 24[24, 28, 30, 32, 32, 34] sts.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block pieces lightly, taking care not to stretch ribbing at waist and cuffs while blocking. If steam blocking, avoid these areas entirely.

Fold hem facing of fronts and back to WS of work and sew in place, taking care not to sew too tightly or distort fabric.

Sew shoulder seams.

Front Bands and Collar:
Beginning at lower right front corner, with RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and k 4 sts for every 5 rows along right front edge to top of waistband, 1 st for every row along right front neckline edge, 1 st for every BO st along back neckline, 1 st for every row along left front neckline edge to top of waistband, and 4 sts for every 5 rows along left front edge to lower left front corner.

Count your sts. It is important to have an even number of sts; if you have an odd number, decrease 1 st when working the next row.

If you have a multiple of 4 sts, work 2x2 Rib as follows:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, [p2, k2] to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, [k2, p2] to last 3 sts, k3.

If you have a multiple of 4 sts + 2, work 2x2 Rib as follows:
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, p1, [k2, p2] to last 4 sts, k2, p1, k1.
Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, [p2, k2] to end.

Work in 2x2 Rib as set until band measures 4 inches. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams and side seams. Weave in remaining ends.
Re-block pieces if desired, again taking care not to stretch ribbing, though lower corners of front bands may require light blocking to prevent pulling.

Belt (Optional):
CO 10 sts. Work in garter st (k all rows) until piece measures 42[46, 50,54, 58, 62, 66] inches or desired length.
BO all sts. Weave in ends.

Kristen Rengren is the author of Vintage Baby Knits: More than 40
Heirloom Patterns from the 1920s to the 1950s. Her designs draw on her experience as a long-time collector of vintage clothing and a former vintage clothing dealer, and on her collection of thousands of vintage knitting patterns. Kristen recently launched her own independently published line of original patterns. She has also
designed for Interweave, Vogue Knitting, Blue Sky Alpacas, and the
Vermont Organic Fiber Company.

She blogs about designing, about vintage knitting, and occasionally, about jam and pie, at retroknit.net.