I love hats. Since learning to knit, I've become a collector. I
recently noticed that I have tons of lace hats, tons of beanies,
tons of slouches, but not one hat with cables. Instead
of dwelling on it, I decided to fix my problem. The result
is a nice thick hat that is as visually interesting as it is
Eight small cables twist up the body of the hat before
tapering off like vines, while larger panels accented with
moss stitch weave in and out before opening up to form
the bloom covering the top of the hat. There are
no cables in the decrease rows, which take up most of the
body of the hat. The whole thing looks way more complicated
than it really is!
By knitting more or fewer of the pattern rows and through
the magic of blocking, the hat can be imagined as a snug
beanie, a light slouch or a giant tam. I've added
all three to my hat collection, and I'm sure one of these
versions could use a place in yours!
Muscha photos: CJ
SIZE S[M, L]
To fit head circumference up to 18[20, 24] inches
Each size can be made in three lengths
(all shown). All hats shown are size M; model's head circumference
is 21 inches.
See Pattern Notes re. hat sizing.
Length of short[medium-length, long] verions: 7.5[8, 9.5] inches
1: Short hat Cascade
220 [100% wool; 220yd/201m per 100g
skein]; color: #8010 Natural; 1 skein
2: Medium-length hat Valley
Yarns Northampton [100% wool; 247yd/226m per 100g skein]; color:
#26 Raspberry Heather; 1 skein
Version 3: Long hat
Cascade 220 [100% wool; 220yd/201m per
100g skein]; color: #2452 Turtle; 1 skein
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
set US #6/4mm double-point needles
16-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle
16-inch US #6/4mm circular needle
Balloon or dinner plate (used for blocking)
GAUGE 21 sts/28 rows = 4" in
stockinette stitch using larger needles, after blocking
24 sts/32 rows = 4" in Body Chart pattern using larger
needles, after blocking
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The hat body has the same circumference for each size; only
the hat band is sized. To choose a band size, measure around the
top of your head at the widest point, usually around the middle
of the forehead. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller
size; the ribbing is very stretchy.
The different lengths are achieved by working more or
fewer body pattern rows, before beginning crown shaping.
1x1 Rib (Worked in the round over an even number of sts):
All Rounds: [K1, p1] to end.
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work;
k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle.
C6B: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work;
k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle.
C6F: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work;
k3 from left needle, k3 from cable needle.
skp: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over. 1 st decreased.
The chart for this pattern is very large and fits on a letter-sized
page. Click here and print the resulting page.
BAND Using smaller circular needle, CO 96[104, 112] sts. Place
marker and join to work in the round,
being careful not to twist.
Work 12 rounds 1x1 Rib.
HAT BODY Using larger circular needle, work next round for your
size as follows:
Size S: *[K1, kfb] five times, kfb, kfb; repeat from *
seven times more. 152 sts.
Size M: *[K1, kfb] six times, k1; repeat
from * seven times more. 152 sts.
Size L: *[K2, kfb] four times, k1, kfb;
repeat from * seven times more. 152 sts.
From this point on, all sizes are worked in the same way.
Work Body Chart, beginning with Round 16 for a short hat,
Round 9 for a medium-length hat, or Round 1 for a long
hat; all hat lengths end with Round 29.
Chart pattern will
be worked 8 times in each round.
CROWN Work Rounds 1-24 of Crown Chart. 8 sts remain.
Break yarn and draw through remaining sts. Pull tight,
then draw yarn through sts again to secure.
Weave in ends and block. The body of this hat grows and achieves
its shape through wet blocking. Dinner plates were used for
medium-length and long hats shown. The short hat was blocked
using an inflated balloon. Both methods work well.
To prevent stretching the ribbed hat band, waste yarn
was basted in a running stitch along the round between
the ribbed band and the hat body. After the hat was soaked
and placed over the blocking form, the waste yarn was
cinched, to firmly stretch the cabled hat body. The ribbed
band was then pulled vertically by hand and left to dry
for a perfect finish.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Amanda Muscha currently lives in Billings, MT with her boyfriend
and two degus. She uses knitting to keep sane while working on
her BS in Math at MSU Billings.