This pair of kilt hose was designed for my then-husband, who
was never quite satisfied with the tall socks available at the
local Scottish shop. His clan, Rose of Kilravock (pronounced “Kill-rock”),
has their ancestral castle near Inverness in Scotland. He grew
up wearing the traditional tartan but has since discovered the
oh-so-practical Utilikilt. I knit these as a means of encouraging
him to wear the kilt as frequently as possible. It was those
legs, after all, that caught my eye the first time I saw him.
Kilravock starts with a heavily cabled
cuff that folds over to hide garters, although
they will stay up on their own. A ribbed leg
ensures a perfect fit to show off the lad’s calves, and
a simple cable adds interest down the side of the leg. When worn,
change in the leg diameter creates a shift in the cable: It’s
rounder near the top and gradually elongates
as it approaches the ankle. Knit from the top down with DPNs
or circulars, Kilravock is easily adjusted
for different sizes.
Rose photos: Sharon
One accommodating size. The ribbed leg and instep will stretch
to fit most adult men. Adjust the length of the foot to suit
your wearer. See Pattern Notes to modify for a custom fit. Shown
in shoe size 11.5, calf 15 inch circumference.
Leg length as shown: 21 inches from bottom
of heel to edge of cuff (with cuff unfolded). Adjustable to fit.
Cuff circumference: 14 inches, unstretched. Ankle circumference:
7 inches, unstretched.
Foot length as shown: 10 inches. Adjustable
Schoeller & Stahl
Fortissima Socka [75% superwash wool,
25% polyamide; 420m per 100g skein];
color 2090; 2 skeins. Note: The sample socks required
just short of two skeins.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
set US #1.5/2.5mm double-point needles OR
1 32 inch long US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle for magic loop method OR
2 shorter US #1.5/2.5mm circular needles for two-circulars method
Crochet hook for edging, size US3/3.25mm
stitch markers – 1 should be a different color
30 sts/40 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the
Cable panels: Cuff Chart = 2 inches wide. Leg chart = 1.1 inches wide relaxed.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Pattern as written will accommodate
calves 10-16.5 inches in circumference. If your intended leg
is slimmer or wider, modify the stitch count in multiples of
4. The ribbing will automatically adjust from the calf muscle
to the ankle, but additional shaping will be required for those
with dramatic calf-to-ankle ratios. There are options for adapting
the ankle to different instep heights in the Gusset Decrease
C4F: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work;
k2 then k2 from cable needle.
C4B: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold
to back of work; k2 then k2 from cable needle.
T4F: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold
to front of work; p2 then k2 from cable needle.
T4B: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and
hold to back of work; k2 then p2 from
T3F: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and
hold to front of work; p1 then k2 from
T3B: Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold
to back of work; k2 then p1 from cable needle.
Working these without
a cable needle (great
instructions can be found on Grumperina’s
blog) will speed up the process considerably
for most knitters.
Directions for provisional cast ons may be found here.
Directions for a crochet chain border may be found here.
Note: For perfect symmetry, on your second
sock, replace the cable on Row 10 of
the leg chart with a 4 stitch left cable.
The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized
page. Click here and print
the resulting page.
CUFF Provisionally cast on 26 sts.
Work Cuff Chart in a long strip until
the cuff fits comfortably around the
calf, about two inches below the knee.
Slip the first stitch of each row purlwise.
Remember that there will be a layer of
sock and probably a garter between the
leg and the cuff. The fit should be snug,
but not constricting. End on row 7 of chart.
Graft the ends together.
Graft the ends together as follows:
yarn and slide live stitches onto another
needle. Start with wrong side (first
three stitches are knit side up). Follow grafting instructions
for the first three stitches from each needle. Finish
the sequence completely, as if they are the only six on
the project. Flip work so knit side of next stitches are
showing. Kitchener all knit stitches. Again, complete
the sequence as if remaining stitches didn’t exist.
Continue process until all stitches are worked. This will
give you a seamless join in the pattern. Don’t worry
if the join isn’t
quite perfect: Nobody will see it on
the inside of a striding leg.
Crochet a chain border on
one long side to straighten the curl.
With WS facing, pick up and knit 84 stitches evenly distributed
around the other long side, starting at the join. The wrong
side of the cable is now the right side of the work. (When
the cuff is turned down, the right side of this cable will
show on the outside.)
Join for working in the round and note or mark beginning
of round with the unique marker.
Knit two rounds. Ribbing round: [K2, p2] to end.
Work Ribbing round for 2 inches.
This will create a flat area so that
if the wearer is using a sock garter it won’t press
the cable into the leg.
Next round: Work 34 sts in ribbing pattern; place
new marker; work Row 1 of Leg Chart on 14 sts; place second
new marker; continue rib pattern as established to end
Continue in pattern as established until leg measures
14 inches (or the actual measurement of the leg in question,
from just under the knee to the ankle), ending after Row
15 of chart. Cable panel markers may be discarded now.
HEEL Left Foot Heel Flap:
Work partway across one more round, ending
after stitch 48. Left heel row 1 [RS]: [Sl1, k1] 20 times, turn. Left heel
row 2 [WS]: Sl 1,
heel rows 1 & 2 until
heel flap measures 2.5 inches long, ending
after a Left heel row 2.
Right Foot Heel Flap:
Work one more full round (Chart round
16), and then continue partway across a second round, stopping
after stitch 34. Turn so that WS is facing. Right
heel row 1 [WS]: Sl 1,
p39, turn. Right
heel row 2 [RS]: [Sl1,
k1] 20 times, turn.
Repeat Right heel rows
1 & 2 until heel flap
measures 2.5 inches long, ending after
a Right heel
67 sts total - 23 on the heel, and 44 instep stitches.
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the left
side of the heel flap, using slipped sts as a guide.
Place marker for start of instep. Work 44 stitches in
2x2 ribbing, as established for the instep.
for end of instep. Pick up and knit
16 sts along the second side of heel flap, using slipped
stitches as a guide. Knit 12 stitches. The start
of the round is now at the center of the heel.
Place a unique marker
or rearrange stitches on your needles
as you wish. 99 sts total.
Gusset decrease: Gusset decrease round 1: Knit
to 2 before start of instep marker,
k2tog, slip marker; work in rib pattern
to end of instep; slip marker, SSK,
knit to end of round. 2 sts decreased. Gusset decrease round 2: As
per round 1. 2 sts decreased. Gusset decrease round 3: Work
in pattern as established.
Repeat the last three rounds until there
are 85 sts total – 44 on instep and 41 on sole. This
will give you a slightly flat instep.
If the wearer has a high instep, skip
Round 2. If he has a seriously flat instep,
skip Round 3.
Final gusset decrease round: K2tog, work in pattern to end of
round. 84 sts total – 44 on instep, 40 on sole.
FOOT Work even in pattern as established until
foot of sock measures 2 inches less than full foot length
from back of heel.
TOE Instep decrease round 1: Knit to first marker;
ssk, work in pattern to 2 sts before second marker, k2tog;
knit to end of round. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat Instep decrease round 1 once more. 40 sts
between the markers on the instep. Toe decrease round 1: K to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog;
slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 sts before second marker, k2tog, slip marker,
ssk; knit to end. Toe decrease round 2: Knit.
Repeat the last two rounds until 20 stitches
remain. Graft toe closed.