I’m a sucker for patterns that let you knit for stretches
of time without looking at the directions… but still look
really awesome and complicated.
With effortless amazing-ness as my guide, I came up with
this pattern where self-striping yarn
and really simple intarsia do all the work!
The hat is divided into an even number of sections,
each of which stripes at its own pace. So, while
it it looks like color changes are happening
out the wazoo… you
really just knit in stockinette with a
handful of predictable yarn swaps on each
This hat is designed to be an introduction
to intarsia: a (non-stressful) simple
pattern of color changes so you can get
your feet wet. And it’s
worked flat, so it’s a great project for those of
you who don’t love working in the round.
favorite version of this hat is the fingering
weight version: there are lots of great
self-striping sock yarns available! And,
if you’re like me, you’re itching for an excuse
to use them that doesn’t result in a pair of socks. For
a faster knit, I've included a worsted weight
version. The finished size is the same, but it works up much
faster and has fewer color changes.
Trock photos: Tim
Height: approx. 8 inches
Circumference at fullest part of hat: approx. 32 inches
Circumference around ribbed band: approx. 17 inches, unstretched.
Sox [75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon;
440yds/406m per 100g skein]; color:
Miller (#1450); 220 yards (less than
1 skein) required
Worsted weight version
Kureyon [100% wool; 110yd/100m per 50g
skein]; color: #170; 2 skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
US #2.5/3.0mm needle
US #5/3.75mm needle
Worsted weight version
set US #5/3.75mm needles
set US #7/4.5mm needles
elastic thread (optional)
GAUGE Fingering weight version
24 sts/36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with larger needle
Worsted weight version
20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
stitch with larger needle
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Instructions for working Mattress Stitch can be
hat is worked in intarsia, which means
at some point, you need to divide your
yarn into a number of equal-length balls.
The pattern instructs you to do this after
you have completed your ribbing (which
is done in a single yarn). If
it greatly bothers you to play with your
yarn after you’ve
begun knitting, then you can do the division
before you begin… just
keep in mind that one ball will need to
be bigger than the rest in order to do
The easiest way to divide your yarn into equal parts
is to use a postage scale… determining how much
each mini-ball should weigh, and winding
a ball of that weight. When you wind
your mini-balls, wind them into center-pull
balls, and wrap a rubber band around
the outside. Work with the yarn pulled
from the center, and your yarn will stay
This hat is worked flat because intarsia doesn't work
in the round. Therefore,
this pattern has one selvedge stitch
on each side, so that the hat can be seamed
up at the end!
The pattern will tell you when to switch balls of yarn
for doing intarsia (which we’re going to call ‘switching
colors’, since that’s what it’s going
to look like). There’s no charts, here… you’ll
be switching colors at the same place
every row, so you’ll
get nicely-shaped ‘wedges’ in your hat, and
after you get the hang of the pattern,
when to switch. To switch colors, grab
your new yarn (which, after the second
row, should be exactly at the stitch
you’re on, but
one row down), and twist it around your
old yarn. This
twist makes sure there is no gap between
your color changes. Leave your old yarn
hanging there, and start knitting with your new yarn. At
the end of a row, you’ll turn, and continue using
the same ball of yarn that you were just
Note: First number given is for worsted weight
version, second is for fingering weight version.
Brim With smaller needles, CO 90 sts.
Row 1 [WS]: P1, [p1, k1] to
last st, p1.
Row 2 [RS]: K1, [p1, k1] to
last st, k1.
Rep Rows 1 & 2 2 more times,
and then work Row
1 once more.
Body of hat Divide remaining yarn into 4
even yarn balls. From now on, you will
work intarsia, switching to the new color (ball of yarn)
when indicated in the pattern. See
Pattern Notes for details.
Cut yarn leaving a tail 12-18 inches
long. Using tapestry needle, thread
yarn through remaining sts, draw tight,
and fasten. Leave the tail for seaming.
Using the long piece of yarn that you just cut, mattress stitch
the sides of the hat closed. This hat benefits from blocking! Wet your hat,
and stretch it over a 9 inch dinner plate. Allow
If you want a tighter fit in the brim, you can sew elastic
thread into the band. For the most durability, sew
3 separate threads into the band: one at
the bottom of the ribbing, one in the middle, and one
at the top.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Stacey is currently living out her fantasy life in New Haven, CT. She’s
lucky enough to spend her time designing knit & crochet patterns,
and loves every minute of it.
You can read all about her
designing escapades on her