It all began with a series of converging obsessions. There was
the braid of violet-blue Cheviot that kept following me from
festival to festival, daring me to buy and spin it; there was
my perpetual quest for the perfect sock yarn; there was the constant
interest in experimenting with construction angles and examining
how they affect ease and stretch; there was the growing desire
to play with ever more saturated colors. And at last what began
as Platycodon now emerges as Glomerata. There's some thematic
consistency in that the design is all bellflower all the time,
but it isn't packed as chock-full of subtext as some of my more "out-there" work
- I suppose you could call it an etude rather than a tone poem.
The sock is worked toe-up from a toe-tip cast-on. It features
two classic floral lace patterns and a short-row heel set amid
plenty of extra ease at the instep; it's topped with a row of
gently-curved garter stitch petals. I wanted the Dayflower panels
to mirror each other on top of the foot and then diverge above
the heel to climb up the sides of the ankle - and so they do,
after being pushed apart over the instep by another form of bellflower
patterning that finds an echo up the back. Side effects: the
Dayflower pattern appears prim and strait-laced on the top of
the foot, the contrary motion keeping its natural waviness in
check; then as it veers away from center each panel recovers
its normal undulating momentum; it also makes a sweeping angled
curve over the ankle bone, biasing the fabric and giving it a
snug yet stretchy fit.
Don't let the laciness fool you: this is a cozy-warm sock. And
if the floral shapes and the touch of deep rich color
remind you of spring just as you're starting to batten down your
hatches for winter... well, how terrible is that?
SIZE At lighter gauge: Women’s XS[S, M] At heavier gauge: Women’s S[M, L]
See notes on gauge, ease and sizing.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Foot circumference: At lighter gauge: 7[8, 9] inches At heavier gauge: 8[9, 10.25] inches Foot & leg length: adjustable to fit
See Pattern notes on gauge, ease and sizing.
MATERIALS Fiber Gnomespun Dorset or Cheviot roving, 4 oz braid (or
equivalent amount of your own favorite
sock blend); color: Balloonflower, Platycodon,
or Lobelia.
Finished Yarn: Wraps
per inch: 16 or 22 Ply:
3 or 4 Yardage
used: 255[290, 326]
(if spinning your own, allow some
extra to account for differences
in foot length)
Spinning Tool: I
generally use an antique
saxony production wheel,
double-drive, with an effective
ratio of about 16:1. Niddy
Noddy: I
love the counting
skeinwinders
from Oregon Woodworker
or Ball and Skein. Lazy
Kate: mine
is improvised from a squirrel-cage
swift, but I recommend something
like the Will Taylor JMC Kate,
or anything that will accommodate
4 bobbins, ideally at an angle
slightly off the vertical.
Drafting Method: Long
point-of-twist/double-drafting
Commercial Yarn Alternative Tsarina's
Tsilk Tstocking [70% wool, 30% silk; 400 yds/366m per 100g skein] (or
any other high-twist 4-ply sock yarn you love); color: Delphinium (dyed
by Moose
Manor Hand Paints); 1 skein
Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below
-- every knitter's gauge is unique] 1
set(s) US #1/2.25mm double-point
needles OR 1
US #1/2.25mm circular needle, at
least 32 inches for magic loop OR 2
US #1/2.25mm circular needles, any
length for two-circulars method
Tools Tapestry
Needle Stitch
Markers
GAUGE
32 sts/48 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch (darker version as photographed) OR
28 sts/44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
(lighter version as photographed) See Pattern notes on gauge, ease and sizing.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Gauge, Ease, and Sizing
I've made this sock in three different
4-ply yarns. The first was a handspun that turned out slightly denser than
I wanted it, resulting in a gauge of 7 stitches to the inch; the other
two, handspun and millspun respectively, yielded my preferred gauge of
8 stitches to the inch. (The second batch of handspun was my own blend,
based on the same formula used for my custom milspun yarn: 70% wool / 30%
silk.) For this pattern I've expanded my typical sizing range accordingly,
to allow you to adjust as needed for the grist of your own handspun.
At 8 sts per inch, working the first set of numbers gives a
sock 7 inches in circumference, the second set gives a sock 8
inches in circumference, and the third set gives a sock 9 inches
in circumference. At 7 sts per inch, working the first set of
numbers gives a sock 8 inches in circumference, the second set
gives a sock 9 inches in circumference, and the third set gives
a sock 10.25 inches in circumference.
Note that I intend my socks to be worn with about 10% negative
ease, so that a foot with a 9 inch circumference
should wear a sock 8 inches in circumference.
Spinning Sock Yarn; A Mini-Manifesto
I have fairly strong views on this subject;
yours may vary, of course, so take mine with salt to taste.
Let’s be clear on this from the outset: Where socks are
concerned, I am the Anti-Merino. It's my considered opinion that
Merino is just about the least appropriate fiber possible
for sock purposes. Granted, it's very soft; but that is really
its only virtue, and I find that in some 95% of cases the importance
of softness in socks is vastly overrated. Overly soft socks tend
to be short-lived socks; they sacrifice staying power for dubious
comfort. Use a soft fiber like Merino, spin it into a soft yarn,
and knit it into a soft fabric, and what do you get? Insufficient
twist and density. A sock meeting those criteria will not hold
its shape, will not stand up to friction, will not cushion your
foot.
The best socks are perfectly fitted; they're constructed at
a tight gauge, from a high-twist yarn that has plenty of inherent
strength and spring - those are the attributes that will give
you both comfort and lasting wear. This is why I love to begin
with downs breeds, such as Cheviot and Dorset, with their strong
spiral crimp; this is why my own custom millspun uses a blend
of several wools ranging from Targhee to Southdown, with silk
for added strength and smoothness and shine.
What I love best is a crisp round yarn with plenty of strong
plying twist and high stitch definition;
I'm still working toward the perfect
balance of spring and strength, but my
most tried and true formula so far is
a four-ply: Fine lofty singles spun point-of-twist
from a woollen prep (roving, typically - or a batt if I've done
the blending myself), plied together hard
- I suggest an angle of twist not less than 40 degrees.
If four-ply seems a little crazy to you,
spin a three-ply. (But don’t settle
for two-ply. The loss of roundness and
substance is exponential; I have yet
to see a two-ply that makes good socks.)
Don't be afraid to underspin the singles
just a touch, then compensate with apparent
overplying. The result may not meet the standard definition of
a "balanced" yarn
- at least not until after you've set
the twist - but it will be strong and
bouncy and stretchy enough to make a
beautiful cushy sock; one that will last
and last.
There; that's my two cents' worth on how it should be done.
Now go forth and spin the sock yarn YOU like best!
M1L: Insert left needle, from front to back,
under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle
and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back
loop. 1 stitch increased. M1R: Insert left needle,
from back to front, under strand of
yarn which runs between last stitch
on left needle and first stitch on
right needle; knit this stitch through
front loop. 1 stitch increased. M1p: Make 1
stitch purlwise: Insert left needle,
from front to back, under strand of
yarn which runs between last stitch
on left needle and first stitch on
right needle; purl this stitch through
back loop. 1 stitch increased.
Low-torque k3tog
If your hands or your fragile wooden
needles groan at the strain of working a conventional k3tog,
try one of these kinder, gentler alternatives: Method #1: Yo on left needle, use tip of right
needle to pass 3 sts over the loop,
one at a time; then transfer the finished
st to right needle. Method #2: K1, slip the st to left needle, and
pass the next 2 sts over it. Method #3: K2tog, slip the st to left needle,
and pass the next st over it, then transfer
the finished st to right needle.
Toe Patterning
Patterning on the toe is a partial version of the mirrored Dayflower pattern
that is worked on the top of the sock. Worked in the round Rows 1 & 3: Yo, ssk, k1, (ssk, yo) twice, k2, (yo, k2tog)
twice, k1, k2tog, yo. Row 2 (and all other odd-numbered rows): K. Rows 5 & 7: Yo, ssk, k2, yo, ssk, k1, (ssk, yo) twice, k2,
(yo, k2tog) twice, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo. Row 9: Yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk twice, (ssk, yo)
twice, k2, (yo, k2tog) twice, k2tog twice, k2, yo, k3, yo.
Petal Edging
Worked flat on a foundation of 1 st; stitch
count varies from row to row but is restored in R14.
Notes: Decrease at end of WS rows is worked on last st of edging
and next st of sock.
For the first repeat of the pattern you will
not need to slip the first st in R1; simply
use the next st on left needle as the base st for the
cast-on.
Feel free to substitute m1R for m1L in this
edging; because you’re working garter stitch it really
doesn’t matter which way the decreases lean.
Sizes S & L only: Row 1: Sl 1, CO 2 using cable cast on. Row 2: K1, k1 tbl, k2tog. Row 3: Sl 1, k1, m1L, k1. Row 4: Sl 1, k2, k2tog. Row 5: Sl 1, k2, m1L, k1 Row 6: Sl 1, k3, k2tog. Row 7: Sl 1, k3, m1L, k1 Row 8: Sl 1, k4, k2tog. Row 9: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, k1 Row 10: Sl 1, k3, k2tog. Row 11: Sl 1, k1, k2tog, k1 Row 12: Sl 1, k2, k2tog. Row 13: Sl 1, k2tog, k1 Row 14: Sl 1, k1, k2tog, pass 2nd & 3rd sts over last st
worked; 1 st on needle.
Repeat these 14 rows for pattern.
left to right: Tsarina's Tsilk Tstocking
in Delphinium, dyed by Moose Manor Hand Paints;
Handspun Cheviot in Balloonflower, dyed by
Gnomespun;
Handspun 70/30 wool/silk blend
in Delphinium, dyed by Moose Manor Hand Paints
DIRECTIONS TOE
Using the Turkish
Cast-On,
CO 24[28, 32] sts. The first 12[14, 16] stitches will become the sole;
the remaining stitches the instep; distribute stitches on needles accordingly.
Setup: K6[7,8] to center of sole, place removable stitch marker
to indicate start of round.
Round 1: K to last st of sole, m1L, k2, m1R, k to last
st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to end of round. 4 sts increased.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat these two rounds three times more,
and round 1 once more. 44[48, 52] sts.
Round 10: K across sole, k3[4, 5], work row 1 of Toe Pattern
chart, k to end of round.
Round 11: K to last st of sole, m1L, k2, m1R, k2[3, 4] work
row 2 of Toe Pattern chart, k to last st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to
end of round. 48[52, 56] sts.
Round 12: K to last st of sole, k4[5, 6], work row 3 of Toe
Pattern chart, k to end of round.
Round 13: K to last st of sole, m1L, k2, m1R, k3[4, 5] work
row 4 of Toe Pattern chart, k to last st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to
end of round. 52[56, 60] sts.
Round 14: K to last st of sole, k1[2, 3], work row 5 of Toe
Pattern chart, k to end of round.
Round 15: K to last st of sole, m1L, k2, m1R, k0[1, 2],
work row 6 of Toe Pattern chart, k to last st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R,
k to end of round. 56[60, 64] sts. Round 16: K to last st of sole, k2[3, 4], work row 7 of Toe
Pattern chart, k to end of round.
Size S only: Round 17: K across sole , k1, m1R, k1[-,
-], work row 8 of Toe Pattern chart, k1, m1L. k to end of round.
58 sts. Round 18: K across sole, k1, work row
9 of Toe Pattern chart, k to end of round. Round 19: K across sole,k1, work row
10 of Toe Pattern chart, k to end of round, k until 2 sts rem.This
will be the new start of round. Arrange your sts so that there
are 34 on instep, 24 on sole. Move your markers if required.
Proceed to FOOT.
Size M only: Round 17: K to last st of sole, m1L,
k2, m1R, k-[2, -], work row 8 of Toe Pattern Chart, k to last
st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to end of round. -[64, -] sts. Round 18: K across sole, k-[2, -] work
row 9 of Toe Pattern chart, k to end of round. Round 19: K across sole, k-[2, -] work row 10 of Toe Pattern
chart, k to end of round, k until 1 st rems. This will be the
new start of round. Arrange your sts so that there are 34 on
instep, 30 on sole.
Proceed to FOOT.
Size L only: Round 17: K to last st of sole, m1L,
k2, m1R, k-[-, 3], work row 8 of Toe Pattern Chart, k to last
st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to end of round. –[-, 68]
sts. Round 18: K to end of sole, k-[-, 3]
work row 9 of Toe Pattern chart, k to end of round. Round 19: K to last st of sole, m1L,
k2, m1R, k-[-, 2], work row 10 of Toe Pattern Chart, k to last
st of instep, m1L, k2, m1R, k to end of round. –[-, 72]
sts.
K to end of sole. This will be the new
start of round.
Proceed to FOOT.
FOOT
58[64, 72] sts: 34[34, 36] on instep,
24[30, 36] on sole.
Foot round 1: K1[1, 2], work Row 11 of Dayflower Left
pattern, k2, work Row 11 of Dayflower Right pattern, k to end
of round. Foot round 2: K1[1, 2], work
Row 12 of Dayflower Left pattern, k2,
work Row 12 of Dayflower Right, k to
end of round. Foot round 3: K1[1, 2], work
Row 13 of Dayflower Left pattern, k2,
work Row 13 of Dayflower Right, k to
end of round.
Continue in pattern as set until sock hits a point on your foot
2[2, 2.25] inches before the ankle bone, ending with an
even-numbered chart round. See diagram
at right for a guide.
Increase for Instep Shaping Round 1: K1[1, 2], work Dayflower
Left pattern, k1, m1L, k1, work Dayflower
Right, k to end of round. 1 st increased.
Work 2 rounds even. Round 4: K1[1, 2], work Dayflower Left pattern, k1, m1R, k1,
m1L, k1, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round. 2 sts increased.
Work 2 rounds even. Round 7: K1[1, 2], work Dayflower Left pattern, k2, m1R, k1,
m1L, k2, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round. 2 sts increased.
Work 2 rounds even. Round 10: K1[1, 2], work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, place marker,
m1p, k1, m1p, place marker, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round.
The markers will be used later to place the Campanula pattern. 2 sts
increased.
Work 2 rounds even. Round 13: Round 10: K1[1, 2], work Dayflower Left pattern, k3,
p1, m1p, k1, m1p, p1, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round. 2
sts increased.
Work 2 rounds even.
Sizes S & M only:
Stitch count varies in patterns, but
you should have 11[11, -] sts in the center between the Dayflower
patterns, 5 sts between the markers. Round 16: K1, work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, p2, k1, p2, k3,
work Dayflower Right, k1, m1R, k to last st of round, m1L, k1. 26[32,
-] sts on sole. Round 17: K1, work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, p2, yo,
k1, yo, p2, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round. Round 18: K1, work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, p2, k3, p2, k3,
work Dayflower Right, k to end of round. Round 19: K1, work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, p2, k1,
yo, k1, yo, k1, p2, k3, work Dayflower Right, k1.
Proceed to HEEL.
Size L only: Round 16: K2, work Dayflower
Left pattern, k3, p2, m1p, k1, m1p,
p2, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to
end of round.
Work 2 rounds even.
Stitch count varies in patterns, but
you should have -[-, 13] sts in the center between the Dayflower
patterns, 7 sts between the markers. Round 19: K2, work Dayflower Left pattern, k3, p3, yo, k1, yo,
p3, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round.
Round 20: K2, work Dayflower Left pattern,
k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, work Dayflower Right, k to end of round.
Round 21: K2, work Dayflower Left pattern,
k3, p3, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p3, k3, work
Dayflower Right, k2.
Proceed to HEEL.
Heel Turn Step 2: Row 1 [RS]: K12[14, 16], work
wrapped st together with its wrap,
w&t.
Row 2 [WS]: P13[15, 17], work
wrapped st together with its wrap w&t.
Size S only: Row 3 [RS]: K7,
m1L, k7,
work double-wrapped st together with
its wraps, w&t. Row 4 [WS]: P16, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 5 [RS]: K6,
p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k6, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 6 [WS]: P7,
k2, p3, k2, p6, work double-wrapped st together
with its wraps, w&t. Row 7 [RS]: K7,
work Row 1 of Campanula Pattern, k7, work
double-wrapped st together with its
wraps, w&t. Row 8 [WS]: P8,
work Row 2 of Campanula Pattern, p7, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t.
Note: this is not a typo. In this next row, you
skip ahead in the Campanula pattern. It is to make the patterning
line up with the fronts of the leg.
Row 9 [RS]: K8, work Row
9 of Campanula Pattern, k8,
work double-wrapped st together with
its wraps, w&t. Row 10 [WS]: P9, work Row
10 of Campanula Pattern, p8, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 11 [RS]: K9, work Row
11 of
Campanula Pattern, k9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 12 [WS]: P10, work Row
12 of
Campanula Pattern, p9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 13 [RS]: K10, work Row 1 of Campanula Pattern, k10,
work double-wrapped st together with its wraps, w&t.
Proceed to REJOIN THE ROUND.
Size M only: Row 3 [RS]: K8, m1L, k8, work
double-wrapped st together with its
wraps, w&t. Row 4 [WS]: P18, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 5 [RS]: K6, p3, yo, k1,
yo, p3, k6, work double-wrapped st
together with its wraps, w&t. Row 6 [WS]: P7, k3, p3, k3,
p6, work double-wrapped st together
with its wraps, w&t. Row 7 [RS]: K7, work Row 1
of Campanula Pattern Size M, k7, work
double-wrapped st together with its
wraps, w&t. Row 8 [WS]: P8, work Row 2
of Campanula Pattern Size M, p7, work
double-wrapped st together with its
wraps, w&t. Row 9 [RS]: K8, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k8, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 10 [WS]: P9, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, p8, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 11 [RS]: K9, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 12 [WS]: P10, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, p9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 13 [RS]: K10, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k10, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 14 [WS]: P11, work Campanula
Pattern Size M. p10, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 15 [RS]: K11, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k11, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 16 [WS]: P12, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, p11, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 17 [RS]: K12, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k12, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 18 [WS]: P13, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, p12, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 19 [RS]: K13, work Campanula
Pattern Size M, k13, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps.
Proceed to REJOIN THE ROUND.
Size L only: Row 3 [RS]: K18, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 4 [WS]: P19, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 5 [RS]: K10, m1L, k10,
work double-wrapped st together with
its wraps, w&t. Row 6 [WS]: P22, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 7 [RS]: K7, p4, yo, k1,
yo, p4, k7, work double-wrapped st
together with its wraps, w&t. Row 8 [WS]: P8, k4, p3, k4,
p7, work double-wrapped st together
with its wraps, w&t. Row 9 [RS]: K8, work Row 1
of Campanula Pattern Size L, k8, work
double-wrapped st together with its
wraps, w&t. Row 10 [WS]: P9, work Row
2 of Campanula Pattern Size L, p8,
work double-wrapped st together with
its wraps, w&t. Row 11 [RS]: K9, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 12 [WS]: P10, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, p9, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 13 [RS]: K10, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k10, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 14 [WS]: P11, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, p10, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 15 [RS]: K11, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k11, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 16 [WS]: P12, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, p11, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 17 [RS]: K12, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k12, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 18 [WS]: P13, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, p12, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 19 [RS]: K13, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k13, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 20 [WS]: P14, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, p13, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps, w&t. Row 21 [RS]: K14, work Campanula
Pattern Size L, k14, work double-wrapped
st together with its wraps.
Proceed to REJOIN THE ROUND.
REJOIN THE ROUND AND START THE LEG: Round 1: Insert needle
upward through the wraps on the st
you just worked and place them on left
needle, k3tog (the first stitch of
the round and the two wrap loops),
work in pattern as set to marker, p2[2,3],
k5, p2[2,3], k to 1 st before end of
instep, insert needle from below into
the wraps of the sole st; sl these
loops to left needle and k3tog tbl
(the last stitch of the instep and
the two wrap loops).
Round 2: K1[1, 2], work in pattern as set to marker, p2[2,3], k2,
yo, k1, yo, k2, p2[2, 3], work in pattern as set to end of round.
Round 3: K1[1, 2], work in
pattern as set to marker, p2[2,3], k7,
p2[2, 3], work in pattern as set to
end of round.
At this point the two Dayflower panels which formed the instep
have shifted part way around toward the sides of the ankle; as
you work the ease decreases they will begin to climb straight
up the sides. After a few decrease rows you may want to redistribute
stitches on the needles for ease of working.
ANKLE EASE DECREASES Size S only: Ankle Setup: K1[-, -], work in pattern as set to marker, p2[-,
-], ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, p2[-, -], work Dayflower Right, k1[-,
-], ssk, k to beginning of back Campanula Panel, work Campanula Pattern
Size S, k to last 2 sts of round, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased, and start
of round shifted over by 1 st. 2 sts decreased.
Sizes M and L only: Ankle Setup: K-[1, 2], work
in pattern as set to marker, m1p, p-[2,
3], ssk, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, k2tog,
p-[2,3], m1p, work Dayflower Right,
k1[1, 2], ssk, k to beginning of back
Campanula Panel, work appropriate size
Campanula Pattern, k to last 2 sts
of round, k2tog, , k-[1,2]. Start of
round shifted over by -[1, 2] sts.
Note: Setup for front Campanula panel is now complete; start
at Row 6 of appropriate size Campanula pattern in next round.
Ankle Round 1: Work Dayflower
Left, k3, work appropriate Campanula
pattern, k3, work Dayflower Right,
k to beginning of back Campanula panel,
work back Campanula panel, k to end
of round. Ankle Round 2: Work Dayflower
Left, k3, work appropriate Campanula
pattern, k3, work Dayflower Right,
k to beginning of back Campanula panel,
work back Campanula panel, k to end
of round.
Ankle round 3: Work Dayflower Left, k3,
work appropriate Campanula pattern, k3, work Dayflower Right,
k1, ssk, k to beginning of back Campanula panel, work back Campanula
panel, k to last 2 sts of round, k2tog. 2 sts decreased.
Repeat the last 3 rounds 7[10, 12] more
times, until only 3 sts remain between Dayflower Right and Campanula
Back, and between Campanula Back and Dayflower Left.
Leg round: Work Dayflower Left, k3, work appropriate
size of Campanula pattern, k3, work Dayflower Right, k3, work
appropriate size of Campanula pattern, k3.
Work even in pattern up the ankle for another 3 inches or until
desired height; ending after a row 4 or 12 of the Dayflower pattern.
CUFF SETUP
Choose accordingly from the following
setup rounds to complete the leg patterning,
and where required restore a final
stitch count of 56[60, 64]. At this point, the count of
the Dayflower motifs will be restored to the original 15,
but depending on where you are in the Campanula pattern,
your stitch count will still vary.
1) If you have just worked Row 2 of the Campanula pattern:
Work another 6 rounds in pattern as set,
ending with Row 2 or 10 of the Dayflower Patterns and Row 8
of the Campanula Pattern.
Work Adjustment Round 1: K to front Campanula Panel,
work Row 9 of Campanula Pattern, k to back Campanula Panel, work
Row 9 of Campanula Pattern, k to end of round.
2) If you have just worked Row 4 of the Campanula Pattern:
Work another 6 rounds in pattern as set,
ending with Row 2 or 10 of the Dayflower Patterns and Row 10
of the Campanula Pattern.
3) If you have just worked Row 6 of the Campanula Pattern:
Work another 4 rounds in pattern as set,
ending with Row 8 or 16 of the Dayflower Patterns and Row 10
of the Campanula Pattern.
4) If you have just worked Row 8 of the Campanula Pattern:
Work another 4 rounds in pattern as set,
ending with Row 8 or 16 of the Dayflower Patterns and Row 12
of the Campanula Pattern.
5) If you have just worked Row 10 of the Campanula Pattern:
Work another 2 rounds in pattern as set,
ending with Row 6 or 14 of the Dayflower Patterns and Row 12
of the Campanula Pattern.
Work Adjustment Round 2: K1[1, 2], work next row of
Dayflower Left , k3, p2[3, 4], k3, p2[3, 4], k3, work next row
of Dayflower Right, k3, p2[3, 4], k3, p2[3, 4], k3.
Repeat this Adjustment Round once.
6) If you have just worked Row 12 of the Campanula Pattern:
Work Adjustment Round 2 (see #5, above) 4 times.
56[60,64] sts.
CUFF
The Petal Edging is worked flat in garter
stitch, perpendicular to the sock, and attaches to one (or
two) live sock stitches (binding it off in the process) for
every two rows.
Work appropriate size of Petal Edging
chart around until 1 st rems.
At end of Petal Edging, break yarn. Thread
the end on a tapestry needle and work it in to meet the original
base st, hiding the join of the beginning and end of the edging.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Having survived several overlapping careers
in the performing arts, a stint as a computer
consultant and another as a culinary historian,
Lisa Grossman has returned to her early
passion for textiles and been reborn as
the Tsarina of Tsocks. She brings all of
the above - plus the kitchen sink and a
huge pile of knitted leaves - to her crazy-making
creations, which can be found here, as
well as on the feet and needles of many notable
knitting cognoscenti. Taught by her mother
and inspired by the independence of Elizabeth
Zimmermann, Lisa has been knitting for nearly half a century; she
vaguely remembers following a pattern once, before striking out
into her own road-less-traveled-by. She teaches her “Art
for your Feet” brand of inspired
lunacy, most recently at Sock Summit 2011.
She is the surviving co-author of Lobscouse & Spotted
Dog (which
one critic called "the only cookbook that will ever find a
place on my nightstand"), and has written for Tin House Literary
Quarterly, Napoleon Journal, the New York
Times, and Spindlicity.
Her door is always open in the Tsock
Flock group on Ravelry.
by 
Charts
FOOT
