Description of pattern: Apis Dorsata Laboriosa (a.k.a. the Himalayan
honey bee) dwells in the mountains of Bhutan, Nepal, China, and
India. These giant bees build large yellow and golden honeycombs
that hang down from the cliffs. This scarf is inspired by the
workmanship of the bees.
This pattern includes two sizes, a scarf and a shawl, both made
from Madelinetosh Tosh Merino 100% superwash merino
wool. The scarf is made from Tosh Merino Light and is knit on
US size 1 needles. The fingering-weight yarn and small needle
create a light fine gauge fabric with a more delicate honeycomb.
The shawl knits up quickly into a luscious drapey fabric with
Tosh Merino and US size 7 needles. The worsted weight yarn makes
a softer more supple honeycomb. Both will keep the chill off
during the first days of fall and when winter sets in either
one will keep you comfortably warm.
The honeycomb pattern is created by using a combination of slipped
stitches, stockinette stitch, and garter stitch.
The variation in this hand-dyed yarn adds depth to the pattern
by creating rich natural highlights. The triangular shaped scarf
begins with a tubular cast on and is worked from end to end,
increasing every other row and finishes with a tubular cast off.
SIZE
Scarf[Shawl] shown in Nutmeg above [Glazed Pecan below]
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Width: 45[67] inches Length at center: 14.25[22.5] inches
MATERIALS
Yarn Scarf Madelinetosh
Tosh Merino Light [100% superwash merino
wool; 420yd/384m per 100g skein]; color:
Nutmeg; 2 skeins
Shawl Madelinetosh
Tosh Merino [100% superwash merino wool; 210yd/192m per 100g
skein]; color: Glazed Pecan; 3 skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] Scarf:
1 set US #1.5/2.5mm straight needles Shawl: 1 set US #7/4.5 mm straight needles
Notions Stitch
markers Yarn needle Crochet hook and waste yarn (used for tubular cast on)
GAUGE
Scarf: 40 sts / 50 rows =
4" in chart pattern, after blocking Shawl: 20 sts / 28 rows = 4" in chart pattern, after blocking
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
When using hand-dyed yarn, alternate between
skeins every two rows for best color results.
To keep the edges of the piece looking
neat, I chose to alternate skeins after
the first stitch marker on RS rows.
This project uses a tubular cast on and
bind off. Use your preferred
tubular cast on and bind off techniques, or directions may be
found here: Cast
on • Bind
off
LLI (Left Lifted Increase): Use the left needle to pick up the
stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle. Knit
into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.
LSST (Left Slipped-Slitch Twist): Slip next
2 sts knitwise to right needle. Insert
tip of left needle into the fronts of
these 2 sts from right to left, and slip
them back to left needle in this position;
order of sts has been reversed. K first st, sl second st purlwise.
RSST (Right Slipped-Slitch Twist): Slip next 2 sts together,
knitwise, as if to work a k2tog. Slip the st closest to the tip
of the right needle back to the left needle, then k this st.
On the following row, the stitch which
was slipped and not worked will be twisted. P this st through
its back loop.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large.
Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting
page.
FIRST CORNER
Using tubular cast on method, CO 9 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, [p1, k1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, [k1, p1] to end.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, p1, k1, p1, place marker,
k1, LLI, place marker, [p1, k1] to end. 10 sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl 1, k1, p1, k1, p2, [k1,
p1] twice.
From this point on, work first and last 4 sts of each row in
1x1 Rib as set, slipping first st of each row.
Row 5 [RS]: Work in pattern to marker,
slip marker, k1, LLI, k to next marker, slip marker, work in
pattern to end. 1 st increased.
Row 6 [WS]: Work in pattern to marker,
slip marker, p to next marker, slip marker, work in pattern to
end.
Repeat Rows 5-6 twenty times more. 31
sts.
CHARTED SECTION
IMPORTANT: Because the charts for this pattern are very large, only
RS rows are shown. Row numbers given include 1 WS
row worked after each RS row.
Work all WS rows as follows: Work in
pattern to marker, slip marker, p to
next marker, slip marker, work in pattern
to end.
Maintaining 4 sts at each edge in pattern as set, work sts between
markers following charts as follows.
For Scarf:
Work Rows 1-132 of Scarf Chart A. 97
sts.
Work Rows 1-164 of Scarf Chart B, working
outlined pattern repeat section seven times in each row. 138
sts at end of Row 82; 97 sts at end of Row
164.
Work Rows 1-142 of Scarf Chart C. 26
sts. Proceed to Last Corner.
For Shawl:
Work Rows 1-108 of Shawl Chart A. 85
sts.
Work Rows 1-102 of Shawl Chart B, working
outlined pattern repeat section four times in each row. 110 sts
at end of Row 82; 84 sts at end of Row 102.
Work Rows 1-108 of Shawl Chart C. 30
sts. Proceed to Last Corner.
LAST CORNER Next Row [RS]: Work in pattern to marker, slip marker,
k2tog, k to next marker, work in pattern to end.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rows 16 times more for
scarf, or 20 times more for shawl. 9 sts remain.
Remove markers.
Work 2 rows in pattern.
BO all sts using tubular bind off technique.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Anna lives just outside of Tokyo with her
photo-geek husband. She spends most of
her time knitting whatever takes her fancy
and if she has any time to spare she enjoys
sewing, reading, snapping photos and exploring.
For updates on what she is working on or her other patterns check
out her
blog or find
her on Ravelry as Etta.
by
Anna Sudo
