by Stefanie Japel

This sweater was created after many, many discussions with a good friend and fellow knitter about “The perfect sweater.” We wanted something simple, so that it could be worn with just about anything. We wanted something classic, but with a clean, modern feel. We realized that what we really wanted was what everyone’s calling a “Boyfriend Sweater” only shaped to fit US.

I decided to keep the stitch work straightforward, so that each person knitting it can do his or her own thing and customize it even more. At this gauge, it won’t take very long to knit! Check out my article in this issue of Knitty to read more about altering the fit.

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size M

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30 [34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length: 27.75 [27.75, 28.75, 29.75, 30.5, 30.5, 30.5] inches

Note: For fit as shown, choose the size that matches your bust measurement most closely. Waist and hip should have 1" positive ease.

MATERIALS
Yarn
O-Wool Classic [100% certified organic Merino wool; 198 yd/181 m per 100 g skein]; color: 4112 Rust; 5 [5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8] skeins.

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
24-inch length or longer US 8/5mm circular needle
1 set US 8/5mm double-point needles (or long circular needle for magic loop method)
32-inch or longer US 6 (4mm) circular needle

Notions
Yarn needle
Seven 1-inch diameter buttons [buy buttons after project is complete to ensure they'll fit]

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

This sweater is worked top-down in the round.

RLI (Right Lifted Increase)
Increase one stitch by knitting into the right leg of the stitch one row below the stitch on left-hand needle.

LLI (Left Lifted Increase)
Increase one stitch by knitting into the left leg of the stitch two rows below the last stitch knit.

See more detail on lifted increases here.

DIRECTIONS

Row 1 (WS): Purl, placing markers as follows: p6, pm, p8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10], pm, p24 [24, 24, 28, 28, 32, 32], pm, p8 [8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10], pm, p6.

Row 2: [k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) four times, k to end.

Row 3 and all WS rows: purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 15 more times (33 total rows worked). 180 [180, 180, 188, 188, 192, 192] sts.

Begin front increases:
At the same time that you’re working the raglan increases, you’ll also begin increasing at the front neckline. Stop where indicated for your size and continue below at "Separate Sleeves from Body".

Row 34 (RS): k3, LLI, (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to last 3 sts, RLI, k to end.

Row 36: (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to end.

Size XS only: 198 sts. Go on to “Separate sleeves from the body”.

Row 38: (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to end.

Size S only: 206 sts. Go on to “Separate sleeves from the body”.

Row 40: k3, LLI, (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to last 3 sts, RLI, k to end.
Rows 42:  (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to end.
Size M only: 224 sts. Go on to “Separate sleeves from the body”.

Row 44: (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to end.
Size L only: 240 sts. Go on to “Separate sleeves from the body”.

Row 46: k3, LLI, (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to last 3 sts, RLI, k to end.
Row 48: (k to 2 sts before marker, RLI, k2, sm, k2, LLI) 4 times, k to end. -[-, -, -, 258, 262, 262] sts.

Body:
Work in St st for 16 [16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20] rows, continuing to work front neckline shaping as follows on the rows indicated for your size: k3, LLI, k to last 3 sts, RLI, k to end.

Size XS: Increase on Rows 5, 9, 11, 13, and 15.

Size S: Increase on Rows 3, 9, 13, 15, and 17.

Size M: Increase on Rows 3, 7, 11, and 15.

Size L: Increase on Rows 1, 5, 9, 13, 15, and 17.

Size 1X: Increase on Rows 1, 5, 9, 13, 15, and 17.

Sizes 2X + 3X: Increase on Rows 1, 5, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19.

Begin waist shaping:
Row 1 (RS): (k to 1 st before marker, ssk, sm, k2tog) twice, k to end.

Rows 2–6: work in St st.

Repeat Rows 1–6 three more times.

Work even in St st for 10 more rows.

Begin hip shaping:
Row 1 (RS): (k to marker, LLI, sm, RLI) twice, knit to end.
Rows 2–4: Work in St st.
Repeat Rows 1–4 five more times.

Finish body:
Work even in St st for 25 rows.
Change to smaller needle and work in k2, p2 ribbing for 10 rows. 

BO loosely.

Decrease round: k2tog, k to 2 sts before m, ssk.

Knit 12 [8, 6, 5, 4, 4, 3] rnds.

Repeat these 13 [9, 7, 6, 5, 5, 4] rounds 6 [10, 14, 17, 19, 21, 25] times.

Knit 4 [5, 0, 3, 12, 6, 15] rounds even.

Change to smaller needle and work in k2, p2 ribbing for 15 rounds. Sleeve measures approximately 17.5 [18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19, 19] inches.
BO loosely.

Neckline trim:
With RS facing and using smaller needle, pick up and knit approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along right front, beginning at hem; pick up and knit 1 st for each stitch cast on at neckline; pick up and knit approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front, ending at hem. (Be sure to pick up and knit a multiple of 4 sts, plus 2, so that you can work k2, p2 ribbing.)

Work 5 rows in k2, p2 ribbing.

Buttonhole row:
Beginning at Right Front edge, with RS facing, work 2 sts in ribbing, BO 2 sts; *work 5 sts in ribbing [there will be 6 sts on RH needle], BO 2 sts, repeat from * until you have 7 buttonholes (or desired number).  Work in ribbing to end.

Next row: Work in rib and CO 2 sts over each buttonhole as you encounter it.
Work 3 more rows in rib as set.

BO using larger needle.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block to measurements given in schematic. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

Stefanie Japel has been part of the online knitting community since she started blogging as "Glampyre" in 1999 while working on a PhD in Geology. Now, Stefanie has turned crafting into a career and has joined the team at Craftsy.com where she not only teaches knitting classes but also works on the Marketing team.

To read about Stefanie's crafty adventures, visit her website.