A warm pair of fingerless mittens with a textured fan pattern,
reminiscent of the spats [an abbreviation of "spatterdashes"]
men wore to cover the tops of their shoes. A touch
of Victorian-inspired feather and fan makes these very
feminine.
The mittens are knitted flat, and wrapped around the hand. The
overlap provides an extra layer underneath the textured flap,
preventing the cold autumn winds to blow through the eyelets,
and making these mittens especially warm and cozy.
There are 3 sizes. Additionally the structure makes
these mittens ultra-flexible in sizing, so that they provide
the perfect fit for everybody!
They are perfect for any knitter who prefers flat knitting,
or who is new to knitting in the round, since it’s almost
entirely knitted flat.
You can show off any of your favorite fingering weight
yarns: a solid color yarn will show off the texture of the fan
pattern really well, while a variegated yarn will produce a lovely
contrast between the upwards knitted mitten body and the sideways
knitted flap.
Decorate the mitts with a row of your prettiest buttons,
and enjoy wearing them throughout autumn and winter
too!
model: Dagmar
Mora photos: Dagmar
Mora, Burkhard Schaefer, Sarah Walton
Note: Since the mittens are wrapped around
the hand, the sizing is very flexible and can easily be made
to fit hands considerably smaller or larger than the given measurements.
MATERIALS
Yarn Purple
version Regia
4ply by Coats [75% New Wool, 25% Polyamide;
230 yd/210 m per 50g skein]; color: “cardinal” #1078;
2 [2, 2] skeins
Variegated versions Merino
Mania 4ply by Fibre Alive [100%
NZ Merino; 350 yd/320 m per 100g skein]; shown in colors: “carrot
cake” (green/orange) and “summer breeze” (blue/yellow);
1 [1, 1] skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] For
body: 1 US #1/2.25mm straight OR 1 US #1/2.25mm circular needle
For edging: 1 39 inch or longer US #1/2.25mm circular
needle
For thumb: 1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles OR 1 long US #1/2.25mm circular needle for
magic loop OR 2 US #1/2.25mm circular needles for two-circulars
method
Notions 28
buttons, approx. diameter 0.375 inches/10mm 2 stitch markers Scrap yarn for use as stitch holders
GAUGE
32 sts/44 rows = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
m1p: Make 1 stitch purlwise: Insert
left needle, from front to back, under
strand of yarn which runs between last
stitch on left needle and first stitch
on right needle; purl this stitch through
back loop.
1 stitch increased. sl1k: slip one stitch knitwise sl1p: slip one stitch purlwise slm: slip marker wyib: with yarn in back wyif with yarn in front
DIRECTIONS
Right Mitt Cuff
Using the straight or circular needle as you prefer for working flat, CO
50[54, 58] sts. Row 1 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 2 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Row 7 [WS]: (P11[12, 13], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10, 11],
k1, p1. 47[51, 55] sts. Row 8 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Row 13 [WS]: P to last 2 sts, k1, p1 Row 14 [RS]: P1, (k10[11 ,12],
SSK) 3 times, k10[11, 12]. 44[48, 52]
sts.
Work Rows 1-2 three times more.
Row 21 [WS]: (P9[10, 11], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10, 11],
k1, p1. 41[45, 49] sts. Row 22 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Thumb Gusset Row 28 [RS]: P1, k to end. Row 29 [WS]: P12[13, 15],
pm, p1[3, 3], pm, p to last 2 sts,
k1, p1
Row 30 [RS]: P1, k to first m, slm, m1, k to next m,
m1, slm, k to end. 53[57, 61] sts, 3[5, 5] sts between markers. Row 31 [WS]: P to last 2 sts,
k1, p1. Row 32 [RS]: P1, k to end. Row 33 [WS]: P to first m,
slm, m1p, p to next m, m1p, slm, p
to last 2 sts, k1, p1. 55[59,
63] sts, 5[7, 7] sts between markers. Row 34 [RS]: P1, k to end. Row 35 [WS]: P to last 2 sts,
k1, p1.
Rep Rows 30-35 three times more. Rep Rows 30-31 once. 69[73,
77] sts, 19[21, 21] sts between markers.
Hand Row 56 [RS]: P1, k to first
m, slm, slip the 19[21, 21] sts between
markers onto a piece of scrap yarn,
CO 5 sts over gap, slm, k to end. 55[57,
61] sts, 5 sts between markers. Row 57 [WS]: P to last 2 sts,
k1, p1. Row 58 [RS]: P1, k to first
m, slm, SSK, k1, k2tog, slm, k to end.
53[55, 59] sts.
Size S only Row 59 [WS]: P to m, remove
m, p3tog, remove m, p to last 2 sts,
k1, p1. 51 sts. Row 60 [RS]: P1, k to end.
Sizes M and L only
Work Rows 1-2, removing markers
as you go.
All sizes
Work Rows 1-2 4 times. Row 69 [WS]: (P8[9, 10], p2tog) 4 times, p9, k1, p1. 47[51,
55] sts.
Slip all sts onto a piece of scrap yarn.
Break yarn.
Flap
With RS facing, rejoin yarn and pick
up and knit 41 sts evenly distributed along left edge of work.
(Tip: to get the right stitch number, pick up about 4 sts for
every 7 rows.)
Note: In the first row you will work short
rows, to help with the transition from the straight edge to
the fan pattern. During this process the decreases should always
be worked over the yo and the following stitch.
Rep Rows 3-8 4[5, 5] times more (or to length of your choice).
Rep row 3 once more.
Break yarn.
Edging
Return 47[51, 55] live sts from top of
hand to the longest circular needle. Join yarn and use the
tip of the right hand needle to work as follows:
With RS facing, knit across the 47[51, 55] at the top of the
mitt. Pick up and knit 2 sts for every
3 rows from side edge of flap, at top of mitten, starting right
next to the stitches on the scrap yarn. Place a marker. Continue
across live sts of the flap: (K2, SSK, k15, k2tog) 3 times, k2,
place a second marker. As
before, pick up and knit 2 sts for every
3 rows from the other side edge of the flap, then pick up knit
50[54, 58] sts – one
for every cast on stitch at the bottom
of the main mitten body. Turn work. 59 sts between the
markers. Tip: If you find it difficult
to go around the corners with your needle, try making a loop
with the cable at one or both corners, as you would with magic
loop knitting.
Row 1 [WS]: K to 1 st before first m, kfb, slm, kfb,
(k1, k2tog, k13, SSK, k1) 3 times, kfb,
slm, kfb, k to end. Row 2 [RS]: K to m, k3, (SSK,
k11, k2tog, k2) 3 times, k to end. 49
sts between markers. Row 3 [WS]: K to first m,
slm, yo, k3(yo, p2tog, p2,
yo, p2tog, p1, SSP, yo, p2, SSP, yo,
k2) 3 times, k1, yo, slm, k to end.
51 sts between markers. Row 4 [RS]: Kto
first m, slm, [k1, p1] into next st,
k4, (K3, [k1, p1] into next
st, k3, [k1, p1] into next st, k7)
3 times, [k1, p1] into next
st, slm, k to end 59 sts between
markers. Row 5 [WS]: K to 1 st before
first m, kfb, remove m, kfb, k to last
st before second m, kfb, remove m,
kfb, k to end.
Cast off knitwise.
Thumb
Return 19[21, 21] sts of thumb from scrap yarn to needles
for working in the round.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at base of thumb and pick up and
k 5 sts over cast on sts, and k across
thumb sts. 24[26, 26] sts. Distribute across needles as you prefer,
and join for working in the round.
Rnd 1: Knit. Rnd 2: SSK, k1, k2tog, k to
end. 22[24, 24] sts.
Sizes S and M only: Rnd 3: Sl1k, k2tog, psso,
k to end. 20[22, --] sts.
Size L only Rnd 3: Knit.
All sizes Rnd 4: Knit. Rnd 5: K2tog, k to end. 19[21,
23] sts. Rnd 6: Purl. Rnd 7: Knit.
Rep Rnds 6-7 once more. Rep Rnd 6.
Cast off knitwise.
Left Mitt Cuff
CO 50[54, 58] Row 1 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end. Row 2 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Row 7 [WS]: P1, k1, p9[10, 11], (p2tog, p11[12, 13])
3 times. 47[51, 55] sts. Row 8 [RS]: K to last st,
p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Row 13 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end. Row 14 [RS]: (K10[11, 12],
SSK) 3 times, k10[11, 12], p1. 44[48,
52] sts.
Work Rows 1-2 three more times.
Row 21 [WS]: P1, k1, (p9[10, 11], p2tog) 3 times, p9[10,
11]. 41[45, 49] sts. Row 22 [RS]: K to last st,
p1.
Work Rows 1-2 twice more.
Thumb Gusset Row 28 [RS]: K to last st, p1. Row 29 [WS]: P1, k1, p36[37, 39], pm,
p1[3, 3], pm, p to end.
Row 30 [RS]: k to first m, slm, m1, k to next m, m1, slm, k
to last st, p1. 53[57, 61] sts , 3[5, 5] sts between markers. Row 31 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end. Row 32 [RS]: K to last st, p1. Row 33 [WS]: P1, k1, p to first m, slm,
m1p, p to next m, m1p, slm, p to end. 55[59, 63] sts , 5[7, 7]
sts between markers. Row 34 [RS]: K to last st, p1. Row 35 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end.
Rep Rows 30-35 three times more. Rep Rows
30-31. 69[73,
77] sts, 19[21, 21] sts between markers.
Hand Row 56 [RS]: K to first m, slm, slip
the 19[21, 21] sts between markers onto a piece of scrap yarn,
CO 5 sts over gap, k to last st, p1. 55[57, 61] sts, 5 sts
between markers) Row 57 [WS]: P1, k1, p to end. Row 58 [RS]: K to first m, SSK, k1, k2tog,
k to last st, p1. 53[55, 59] sts.
Size S only: Row 59 [WS]: P1, k1, p to m, remove m,
p3tog, remove m, p to end. 51 sts. Row 60 [RS]: K to last st, p1.
Sizes M and L only:
Work Rows 1-2 once, removing markers
as you go.
Break yarn. Slip all sts onto a piece of scrap yarn.
Flap
With RS facing, pick up and knit 41 sts
evenly distributed along right edge of work. (Tip: to get the
right stitch number, pick up about 4 sts for every 7 rows.)
Finish as for Right Mitt.
Edging
Return 47[51, 55] live sts from top of
hand to the longest circular needle:
With RS facing, join yarn and pick up and knit 50[54, 58] sts – one
for every cast on stitch at the bottom of the main mitten body;
pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from side edge of flap,
at bottom of mitten. Place a marker. Continue across live
sts of the flap: (K2, SSK, k15, k2tog) 3 times, k2, place a second
marker. As before, pick up and knit 2 sts for every 3 rows from
the other side edge of the flap, then knit across the 47[51,
55] live sts from top of hand. Turn work. 59 sts
between the markers.
Finish as for Right Mitt.
Thumb
Work as for Right Mitt.
FINISHING
Block. You can pin them for shaping, but be careful not to stretch
the fan pattern too much, since this would flatten the pretty
bumps in the texture.
Sew on buttons to fit, using photos as a guide.
Optional: Sew down the overlap along the top of the mitt, and
attach some of the side edge of the overlap on the inside of
the mitten. This will make it easier to slip the mitts on and
off. You will only need to open the buttons at the cuff.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Dagmar Mora lives in Scotland (Edinburgh), and enjoys nothing as
much as knitting gloves and mittens.
