This easy-to-wear autumn pullover incorporates design elements from 1960s Swedish designer knitwear with a decorative collar that provides additional warmth as well as extra pizzazz.
The body is worked in one piece from the neck down, working short-rows at the back to shape the neckline, then increasing for the sleeves simultaneously until the underarm. Raglan increases have been calculated for each size individually to improve armhole-body proportions compared to the typical every-other-row increases.
The sleeve stitches are held on waste yarn while the body is worked to the bottom edge. The sleeves are then worked from the top down, before the collar is worked from the bottom up.
A cheeky slipped-stitch pattern is used for a seasonal color effect - no stranding skills required!
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles 16-inch US #6/4mm circular needle 24-inch US #6/4mm circular needle 1 set US #4/3.5mm double-point needles 16-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle 24-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle
Notions Yarn
needle stitch markers stitch holders or waste yarn
GAUGE
21 sts/31 rows = 4 inches in St st on larger needles
21 sts/31 rows = 4 inches in Russet Check pattern on larger needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Russet Check pattern (multiple of 4 sts): Rnd 1: With MC, *k2, sl 2 purl-wise wyib; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: With CC1, knit. Rnds 3 & 4: With CC2, *sl 2 purl-wise wyib, k2; rep from * to end. Rnd 5: With CC1, knit. Rnd 6: With MC, *k2, sl 2 purl-wise wyib; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnds 1-6 for patt.
MC is used throughout except for the Russet Check Pattern. Break and join colors as necessary. If you do not wish to include the color pattern, just work in straight St st instead. You may need to purchase an extra ball of MC.
DIRECTIONS
Yoke
With larger 16-inch circular needle and MC, CO 80[100, 120, 120, 148, 152, 164] sts using a stretchy cast-on method of your choice (such as the long-tail cast on).
Join to work in the rnd, taking care not to twist sts. Pm for beg of rnd.
Next rnd: K69[84, 99, 99, 121, 124, 133], insert lockable marker or waste yarn into the CO edge at this point in the rnd (this will later be used for the collar), k11[16, 21, 21, 27, 28, 31].
Back neck short rows: Short row 1 [RS]: (Knit to m, sl m) three times, k7[11, 16, 15, 20, 22, 24], w&t.
Short row 2 [WS]: (Purl to m, sl m) eight times, p7[11, 16, 15, 20, 22, 24], w&t.
Short row 3 [RS]: (Knit to m, sl m) eight times, k4[7, 10, 10, 12, 14, 16], w&t.
Short row 4 [WS]: (Purl to m, sl m) eight times, p4[7, 10, 10, 12, 14, 16], w&t.
Short row 5 [RS]: (Knit to m, sl m) eight times, k1[3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10], w&t.
Short row 6 [WS]: (Purl to m, sl m) eight times, p1[3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10], w&t.
Next row [RS]: Knit to end of rnd. Next rnd: Knit all sts, working wraps with wrapped sts.
Note: Switch to longer circular needle when needed.
Raglan Inc Rnd: *K1, sl m, M1L, knit to m, M1R, sl m; rep from *3 times more.
8 sts inc. 88[108, 128, 128, 156, 160, 172] sts.
Next rnd: Knit.
Sizes M, L, XL, 2X and 3X only:
Rep the last 2 rnds -[-, 1, 11, 11, 19, 25] times more. -[-, 136, 216, 244, 312, 372] sts.
All sizes:
Knit 1 rnd more.
Rep the last 3 rnds (Raglan Inc Rnd plus 2 knit rnds) 15[15, 17, 12, 13, 9, 6] times more. 208[228, 272, 312, 348, 384, 420] sts.
Size S only:
Knit 1 rnd more.
Rep the last 4 rnds (Raglan Inc Rnd plus 3 knit rnds) once more.
236 sts.
All sizes:
Work Raglan Inc Rnd once more. 216[244, 280, 320, 356, 392, 428] sts: 50[52, 56, 66, 70, 78, 84] sts for each sleeve, 56[68, 82, 92, 106, 116, 128] sts each for front and back, 4 seam sts.
Separate sleeves from body: Next round: *K1, remove m, place next 50[52, 56, 66, 70, 78, 84] sts on holder, remove m, CO 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts using backwards loop method, pm for side "seam", CO 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts using backwards loop method, k1, remove m, knit to m, repeat from * once more.
152[176, 200, 220, 248, 268, 292] sts on needles.
Body
Work in St st for 4.5[4.25, 4.25, 3.75, 4, 3.75, 3.25] inches.
Dec Rnd: *Knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk; rep from * once more, knit to end of rnd. 4 sts dec.
Knit 7 rnds.
Repeat last 8 rnds 3 times more. 136[160, 184, 204, 232, 252, 276]sts.
Knit 7 rnds.
Inc Rnd: *Knit to 2 sts before m, M1R, k2, sl m, k2, M1L; repeat from * once more, knit to end. 4 sts inc.
Work 6 rnds even.
Repeat the last 6 rounds 5 times more. 160[184, 208, 228, 256, 276, 300] sts.
Work in St st until body meas 15.5 inches from underarm CO, or approx. .5 inches shorter than total desired length
Change to smaller needle. Rnd 1: Purl. Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds three times more.
BO loosely purl-wise, using larger needle if necessary.
Sleeves
Transfer the stitches on waste yarn back onto the needles.
Starting at center of underarm with larger DPNs and MC, pick up and knit 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts, knit across 50[52, 56, 66, 70, 78, 84] held sleeve sts, then pick up and knit 9[9, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] sts to center of underarm. Join in the rnd and pm for beg of rnd. 68[70, 72, 82, 86, 94, 100] sts.
Dec Rnd: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts dec.
Work 7[8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5] rnds even.
Repeat last 8[9, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6] rnds 12[11, 12, 15, 15, 17, 18] times more, then rep Dec Rnd once more. 40[44, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60] sts.
Knit 1 rnd.
Work Russet Check pattern over next 18[18, 18, 18, 24, 24, 24] rnds (3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] reps).
Work in St st with MC only, if necessary, until sleeve measures 18 inches or .5 inches shorter than desired length from underarm CO.
Change to smaller needle. Rnd 1: Purl. Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds twice more.
BO loosely purl-wise, using larger needle if necessary.
Collar
With larger 16-inch circular needle and MC, starting at marker placed in cast-on edge with WS facing, pick up and knit 80[100, 120, 120, 148, 152, 164] from yoke cast-on. Join to work in the rnd and pm for beg of rnd.
Work in St st for 1.5 inches.
Size L only: Rnd 1: *K3, M1, k2, M1; rep from * 23 times more. 168 sts. Rnd 2: Knit. Short row 1: K156, w&t. Short row 2: *P3, m1, repeat from * 47 times more, w&t. 216 sts.
All sizes: Next rnd: Knit all sts, working wraps with wrapped sts.
Work in St st until collar measures 2.5 inches from pick up edge, measured at beg of rnd.
Work Russet Check pattern over the next 12 rnds (2 reps).
Work in St st for .5 inches.
Change to smaller needle. Rnd 1: Purl. Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep these 2 rnds twice more.
BO loosely purl-wise, using larger needle if necessary.
FINISHING
Wet block the sweater to finished dimensions shown on the schematic. Try and hold out until it is fully dry before snuggling up in it on a rainy day, with a cup of tea and an Eccles cake.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Wool + Bricks is in Manchester, England, fueled by curry, political theory, bicycles, industrial history, muddy boots, thermodynamics, coffee, football, and lots of rain. It's really good weather for wool.
