INTRODUCTION

Assemblance

by Amy Gunderson

Come on a journey of cable crossing! Is there anything better than wool and traveling stitches to carry us through the fall season? Assemblance combines basic cables with a graphic pattern to create a sweater that's fun to wear and a blast to knit. The sleeves are extra long to give a slouchy feel, and the body is slightly cropped. If you prefer a longer length, simply add more length to the ribbing before beginning the cable crosses.

model: Amy Gunderson

photos: Sarah Krutz

SIZE

For women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X]
shown in size S with 3.5 inches/9 cm of ease


FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 33[37.5, 42, 45.5, 48.75, 53.25, 56.5, 61] inches/ 84[95.5, 106.5, 115.5, 124, 135.5, 143.5, 155] cm
Length: 19[19.25, 20.25, 20.75, 21.25, 22, 22.75, 23] inches/ 48.5[49, 51.5, 52.5, 54, 56, 58, 58.5] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Kelbourne Woolens Germantown [100% North American Wool; 220 yd/201 m per 3.5 oz/100g skein]; color: 319 Myrtle; 4[5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #7/4.5mm needles for working flat
1 set US #5/3.75mm needles for working flat
1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, 16-inch/40 cm length

Notions
cable needle
yarn needle
stitch markers
stitch holders

GAUGE

20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Garter Ridge pattern with larger needles
23 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in charted cable pattern with larger needles

Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Each size has its own chart for the front. Due to the large nature of the charts, the Right Front and Left Front have been separated. On RS rows, begin by following the Left Front chart and continue with the Right Front chart. On WS rows, begin by following the Right Front chart and continue with the Left Front chart.
Please note: The very last/leftmost stitch of Row 1 on the Left Front chart is also the very first/rightmost stitch on the Right Front chart.

Cable stitches
2x2 RPC: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, p2 from cn.
2x2 LPC: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p2, k2 from cn.

3x1 RPC: Sl next st to cn and hold in back, k3, p1 from cn.
3x1 LPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, p1, k3 from cn.

2x3 RPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, p3 from cn.
2x3 LPC: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p3, k2 from cn.

3x3 RC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn.
3x3 LC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn.
3x3 RPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, p3 from cn.
3x3 LPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, p3, k3 from cn.

2x4 RPC: Sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, p4 from cn.
2x4 LPC: Sl next 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p4, k2 from cn.

3x1x3 RPC: Sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, sl last slipped st back to left needle and p1, k3 from cn.
3x1x3 LPC: Sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in front, k3, sl last slipped st back to left needle and p1, k3 from cn.

3x4 RC: Sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, k4 from cn.
3x4 LC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k4, k3 from cn.
3x4 RPC: Sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, p4 from cn.
3x4 LPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, p4, k3 from cn.

3x5 RC: Sl next 5 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, k5 from cn.
3x5 LC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, k5, k3 from cn.
3x5 RPC: Sl next 5 sts to cn and hold in back, k3, p5 from cn.
3x5 LPC: Sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, p5, k3 from cn.

Garter Ridge Pattern (any number of sts)
Row 1 [RS]: Knit.
Row 2 [WS]: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Knit.
Rep Rows 1-4 for patt.

CHARTS

xs Left | xs Right | sm Left | sm Right | med Left | med Right
lg Left | lg Right | 1x Left | 1x Right | 2x Left | 2x Right
3x Left | 3x Right | 4x Left | 4x Right

Note: These charts are huge and split into halves vertically.

DIRECTIONS

Front
Using smaller needles, cast on 97[109, 121, 133, 145, 157, 169, 181] sts.

Work Rows 1- 12[12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] of Front Lower Body Chart.

Switch to larger needles. Work through Row 72[72, 74, 74, 74, 76, 76, 76] of Front Lower Body chart.

Shape armholes:
Work Rows 1- 42[44, 48, 50, 54, 56, 60, 62] of Front Upper Body chart. Once Neck Shaping begins, work both sides at once with separate balls of yarn.

Bind off all sts.

Back
Using smaller needles, cast on 85[97, 109, 115, 121, 133, 139, 151] sts.
Work Rows 1- 12[12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16] as for Front.

Switch to larger needles. Work in Garter Ridge pattern until piece measures 12[12, 12.25, 12.25, 12.25, 12.75, 12.75, 12.75] inches/ 30.5[30.5, 31, 31, 31, 32.5, 32.5, 32.5] cm from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.

Shape armholes:
Bind off 2[4, 6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11] sts at the beginning of next 2 rows. 81[89, 97, 103, 107, 117, 119, 129] sts rem.
Dec row [RS]: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd, 79[87, 95, 101, 105, 115, 117, 127] sts rem.
Dec row [WS]: Work 1 st in patt, k2tog or ssp, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk or p2tog, work last st. 2 sts dec'd, 77[85, 93, 99, 103, 113, 115, 125] sts rem.

Rep Dec row every row 0[2, 4, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0] more times, then rep Dec row every RS row, 1[3, 2, 9, 8, 12, 10, 14] times. 75[75, 81, 81, 87, 89, 95, 97] sts rem.

Work even in patt until Armhole measures 7[7.25, 8, 8.25, 9, 9.25, 10, 10.25] inches/ 18[18.5, 20.5, 21, 23, 23.5, 25.5, 26] cm, ending with a WS row. Bind off all sts.

Sleeves (make 2)
With smaller needles, cast on 43[43, 43, 43, 49, 49, 49, ] sts.
Row 1 [RS]: P2, (k3, p3) to last 5 sts, k3, p2.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, p3, (k3, p3) to last 2 sts, k2.
Repeat Rows 1-2 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7] more times.

Switch to larger needles.
Work in Garter Ridge pattern for 4 rows.
Inc row [RS]: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. 2 sts inc'd, 45[45, 45, 45, 51, 51, 51, 51] sts.

Continuing in Garter Ridge pattern, work an Inc row every 14[10, 8, 6, 6, 6, 4, 4] rows 1[7, 8, 9, 4, 14, 4, 13] more time(s), then work an Inc row every 16[12, 10, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6] rows 4[1, 2, 4, 8, 1, 13, 7] time(s). 55[61, 65, 71, 75, 81, 85, 91] sts.

Work even in pattern until Sleeve measures 20[20, 20.25, 20.25, 20.5, 20.5, 20.75, 20.75] inches/ 51[51, 51.5, 51.5, 52, 52, 52.5, 52.5] cm from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap:
Bind off 2[4, 6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11] sts at the beginning of next 2 rows. 51[53, 53, 59, 61, 65, 65, 69] sts rem.

Dec row [RS]: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec'd, 49[51, 51, 57, 59, 63, 63, 67] sts rem.
Repeat Dec row every RS row 11[12, 16, 15, 10, 14, 20, 20] more times. 27[27, 19, 27, 39, 35, 23, 27] sts rem.

Next row [RS]: Repeat Dec row.
Next row [WS]: Work 1 st, k2tog/ssp as appropriate, work to last 3 sts, ssk/p2tog as appropriate, work last st. 2 sts dec'd.
Repeat the last 2 rows 2[2, 0, 2, 5, 4, 1, 2] more time(s). 15 sts rem for all sizes. Bind off all sts.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block pieces to finished measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Sew Sleeve and side seams.

Work neck edging:
With smaller 16-inch/40 cm circular needle, pick up and knit 80[80, 80, 80, 84, 88, 92, 92] sts evenly around neck.
Rnds 1-4: (K2, p2) to end.
Bind off all sts in pattern.

A – Front/Back Width: 17[19.5, 21.75, 23, 24.25, 26.5, 27.75, 30.5] inches/ 43[49.5, 55.5, 58.5, 61.5, 67.5, 70.5, 77.5] cm
B – Length to Undearm: 12[12, 12.25, 12.25, 12.25, 12.75, 12.75, 12.75] inches/ 30.5[30.5, 31, 31, 31, 32.5, 32.5, 32.5] cm
C – Armhole Depth: 7[7.25, 8, 8.25, 9, 9.25, 10, 10.25] inches/ 18[18.5, 20.5, 21, 23, 23.5, 25.5, 26.5] cm
D – Shoulder Width: 4.25[4.25, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 6, 6] inches/ 11[11, 13, 13, 14, 14, 15, 15] cm
E – Neck Width: 6[6, 6, 6, 6.5, 6.75, 7.25, 7.25] inches/ 15[15, 15, 15, 16.5, 17, 18.5, 18.5] cm
F – Wrist circumference: 8.5[8.5, 8.5, 8.5, 9.75, 9.75, 9.75, 9.75] inches/ 21.5[21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 25, 25, 25, 25] cm
G – Upper Arm circumference: 11[12.25, 13, 14.25, 15, 16.25, 17, 18.25] inches/ 28[31, 33, 36, 38, 41.5, 43, 46.5] cm
H – Sleeve Length to Underarm: 20[20, 20.25, 20.25, 20.5, 20.5, 20.75, 20.75] inches/ 51[51, 51.5, 51.5, 52, 52, 52.5, 52.5] cm
I – Sleeve Cap Height: 5[5.25, 6, 6.25, 5.75, 6.75, 7.75, 8] inches/ 12.5[13.5, 15, 16, 14.5, 17, 19.5, 20.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Amy Gunderson is a recent transplant to Reno where she works as the yarn director for Jimmy Beans Wool. She's pretty stoked that she can take her dogs to work, see mountains every single day, and that Lake Tahoe is just a short drive away. Amy also does a variety of knit and crochet freelance design but isn't known for any particular technique because she loves them all.

She lives with her husband, Kirk, and their adorable dogs Suzy and Charli. Find her on Ravelry.

Pattern & images © 2019 Amy Gunderson.