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cozyclapotisleaves+wavesbelle starholey moley
boo, toozigzagblazegiraffecolorlinesleopetrol
the rockstiggerskating queenunbiasedhallowigfall surprise

White Lies Designs

Designed for fall, this sweater irreverently inspires itself from the gansey tradition with its split garter welts and horizontal patterning at the upper chest. The similarities end there, however: the yarn used is a luxurious blend of merino, silk and cashmere and the patterns include openwork -- features rarely seen on fishermen's ganseys.

I strongly suggest learning to cable without a cable needle, as practically every other row has a multitude of crossings.

Be sure to wash and block your swatch as the tension can change afterwards. Since this particular blend did spread and lengthen after blocking, the pattern calls for measurements before blocking: refer to the schematic for final measurements.

Hate to swatch? Emulate Elizabeth Zimmerman by making the hat first and using it as your swatch.

Those who'd prefer a pure wool garment would do well to look to Needful Yarns' Wool Gatto.

After working the flaps, the sweater body is knit in the round to the underarms, then divided, and the upper front and back are worked back and forth. The sleeves are also knit in the round to the underarms, then the sleeve caps are worked back and forth.

model: Geneviève Cocke[restaurant], Véronik Avery [outside] photos: Véronik Avery, Marcel Jeannin

SIZE
XS [S, M, L, XL, XXL]
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 34.5[38, 42, 45.5, 49.5, 53.5] inches
Length: 20[21, 22, 23, 24, 25] inches

MATERIALS

Needful Yarns Lana Gatto Feeling [70% Extrafine Merino, 20% Silk, 10% Cashmere; 153yd/138m per 50g skein]; color: 10001;
Pullover: 13[14, 16, 18, 20, 22] balls.
Hat: 2 balls.

1 set US #6/4mm double-point needles
1 16-inch US #6/4mm circular needle
1 24-inch or 32-inch US #6/4mm circular needle
Stitch holders
Tapestry needle

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

GAUGE

...with yarn doubled
23 sts/32 rounds = 4" in pattern before blocking
21 sts/30 rounds = 4" in pattern after blocking

 
DIRECTIONS

Back Flap
Using shorter circular needle, CO 94[104, 114, 124, 134, 144] sts with two strands of yarn.
K 6 rows.
Setup row [WS]: K2, p2, [k6, p4] to last 10 sts, end k6, p2, k2.
Maintaining 2 sts at each edge in garter st, work chart A as specified for appropriate size through row 9.
Break yarn and set aside.

Front Flap
Work as for back flap, but do not break yarn at end.

Body
Transfer back flap onto longer circular needle.
Joining row: Sl last 2 sts of back flap to cable needle (cn), hold to back of left needle, k 1st st from left needle tog with 1st st from cn, then 2nd st from left needle tog with 2nd st from cn, cont in patt as set (now on Row 10 of Chart A) across 90[100, 110, 120, 130, 140] front flap sts, sl next 2 sts to cn and hold to front of left needle, k 1st st from cn tog with 1st st from left needle, then 2nd st from cn tog with 2nd st from left needle, cont in patt as set across 90[100, 110, 120, 130, 140] back flap sts, k1. 184[204, 224, 244, 264, 284] sts
Next row: *Place marker (pm), k2tog, work across 88[98, 108, 118, 128, 138] sts in patt as set, ssk, rep from * one time more. 180[200, 220, 240, 260, 280] sts
Cont in patt as set until work measures 14[14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5] inches, ending on an odd-numbered row and stopping 5[6, 5, 6, 5, 6] sts before beg of round.

Divide for Front and Back
BO next 10[12, 10, 12, 10, 12] sts, work in patt across 80[88, 100, 108, 120, 128) front sts, BO 10[12, 10, 12, 10, 12] sts, work to end.
Place front sts on holder.

Back
Work 1 WS (odd-numbered) row.
BO 0[0, 2, 2, 4, 4] st at beg of next 2 rows. 80[88, 96, 104, 112, 120]sts rem.
Work 1 WS row.
Dec 1 st each end of next and foll 4[5, 6, 7, 8, 9] RS rows. 70[76, 82, 88, 94, 100] sts rem.
Next row [WS]: Work across in patt as set, decreasing all 4st cables to 3 sts by purling 2 center sts tog. 64[69, 74, 77, 82, 89] sts rem.

Begin Upper Body Pattern
Beg and ending as indicated for appropriate size, work rows 1-25 of Chart B across all sts, decreasing 0[0, 0, 0, 0, 1] st st each end of rows 6 and 10. 64[69, 74, 77, 82, 85] sts
Work 9 rows in St st.

Shape Shoulders
BO 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts at beg of foll 4[6, 4, 2, 6, 4] rows. 44[33, 50, 65, 40, 57] sts rem.
BO 7[0, 7, 7, 0, 8] sts at beg of foll 2[0, 2, 4, 0, 2] rows. Place rem 30[33, 36, 37, 40, 41] sts on holder.

Front
Replace front sts on circular needle. With WS facing, rejoin yarn.
Work as for back to row 25 of Chart B.

Shape Neck
Next Row [RS]: K39[42, 45, 47, 50, 52] sts, place all sts just worked on holder, k to end.
25[27, 29, 30, 32, 33] sts

Right Neck/Shoulder
Rows 1, 3, 5, 7 & 9 [WS]: Purl.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4] sts, k to end. 23[24, 26, 27, 28, 29] sts
Row 4 [RS]: BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3] sts, k to end. 21[22, 23, 24, 25, 26] sts
Rows 6, 8, 10 & 12 [RS]: K2, ssk, k to end.
Row 11 [WS]: BO 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7] sts, p to end.
Row 13 [WS]: BO 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, p to end.
Row 14 [RS]: k all sts.
Row 15 [WS]: BO rem 7[6, 7, 7, 7, 8] sts.

Left Neck/Shoulder
Leave center 14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts on holder for front neck.
With WS facing, replace rem 25[27, 29, 30, 32, 33] sts on needle and rejoin yarn.
Row 1 [WS]: BO 2[3, 3, 3, 4, 4], p to end. 23[24, 26, 27, 28, 29] sts rem.
Rows 2 & 4 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 3 [WS]: BO 2[2, 3, 3, 3, 3], p to end. 21[22, 23, 24, 25, 26] sts rem.
Rows 5, 7, 9, 11 & 13 [RS]: P all sts.
Rows 6 & 8 [RS]: knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 10 [RS]: BO 5[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 12 [RS]: BO 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 7], k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 14 [RS]: BO rem 7[6, 7, 7, 7, 8] sts.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using dpns, CO 50[50, 50, 60, 60, 60] sts with two strands of yarn.
PM and join, being careful not to twist.
Work rounds 1-4 of sleeve ribbing chart 4 times -- 16 rounds total.
Set-up round 1: K8, [k4, p6] to last 8 sts, k8.
Set-up round 2: Work 2 sts in cable as established in ribbing (will be referred to as c2), k6, c2, work center 30[30, 30, 40, 40, 40] sts in chart A as indicated for appropriate size, c2, k6, c2.
Cont in patt as set for 12 rounds.

Begin Increases
Work inc round: Work 2 sts in patt, m1, work in patt as set to last 2 sts, m1, work rem 2 sts in patt. 52[52, 52, 62, 62, 62] sts.
Cont in patt as set, working inc row every 10 rounds 7[2, 0, 0, 0, 0] times, every 8 rounds 0[8, 8, 12, 8, 2] times, and every 6 rounds 0[0, 5, 0, 7, 16] times. 66[72, 78, 86, 92, 98] sts
Cont in patt as set without further shaping until sleeve measures 16.5[17.25, 18, 18.75, 19.5, 20.25] inches, ending with an odd-numbered row of Chart A and stopping 5[6, 5, 6, 5, 6] sts before marker.

Shape Sleeve Cap
BO 10[12, 10, 12, 10, 12] sts, work in patt to end. 56[60, 68, 74, 82, 86] sts rem.
Work 1 WS row.
BO 0[0, 2, 2, 4, 4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 56[60, 64, 70, 74, 78] sts rem.
Next row [RS]: K2, sl next 2 sts to cn, hold to back of left needle, k 1st st from left needle tog with 1st st from cn, then 2nd st from left needle tog with 2nd st from cn, work in patt to last 6 sts, sl next 2 sts to cn and hold to front of left needle, k 1st st from cn tog with 1st st from left needle, then 2nd st from cn tog with 2nd st from left needle. 4 sts decreased. 52[56, 60, 66, 70, 74] sts
Work 1 WS row.
Rep these 2 rows 3 times more. 40[44, 48, 54, 58, 62] sts
Dec 1 st each end foll 7[8, 8, 9, 10, 11] RS rows. 26[28, 32, 36, 38, 40] sts
BO 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 5]sts at beg of next 2 rows, and 2[3, 4, 3, 4, 4] at beg of foll 2 rows.
BO rem 16[16, 16, 22, 22, 22]sts.

 
FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams.
Collar
With 16" circular needle and RS facing, working with two strands of yarn, pick up and k 14[14,16, 15, 17, 16] sts along left front neck, k14[15, 16, 17, 18, 19] sts from front neck st holder, pick up and k14[14,16, 15, 17, 16] sts along right front neck, and k30[33, 36, 37, 40, 41] sts from back neck st holder. 72[76, 84, 84, 92, 92] sts on needle. PM.
Work 2 rounds of collar ribing chart until collar is approx. 2 inches long, or desired length. BO all sts loosely.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Block lightly.

Hat
With shorter circular needle, CO 90 sts with two strands of yarn. Pm and join, taking care not to twist.
Work rounds 1-6 of hat ribbing chart.
Next round: [K2, p1, m1, p2, m1, p1, k1, ssk] around. 100 sts on needle.
Work rounds 1-12 of Chart A, 3 times.
Work round 1 of Chart A once more.
Hat measures approx. 5.5 inches.

Shape Crown
Round 1: [Ssk, p6, k2tog] around. 80 sts rem.
Rounds 2 & 4: Work in patt as set.
Round 3: [K2tog, p4, ssk] around. 60 sts rem.
Round 5: [Ssk, p2, k2tog] around. 40 sts rem.
Rounds 6, 8, & 10
: K all sts.
Round 7: [K2tog, ssk] around. 20 sts.
Round 9: K2tog around. 10 sts rem.
Round 11: K2tog around. 5 sts rem.
Break yarn and draw through all sts.
Pull tight and fasten securely inside hat.


 

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Véronik's designs have been published in Interweave Knits magazine, Knitty and Melanie Falick's Weekend Knitting. Look for her upcoming designs in Woman's Day, Interweave Knits, Amy R. Singer's Knit Wit and Melanie Falick's Handknit Holidays.

She hopes to one day find the time to update her perpetually under construction website, www.veronikavery.com.

Pattern & images © 2004 Veronik Avery. Contact Veronik