Like many knitters I find it
hard to resist sock yarn.
Beautiful handpainted skeins of mostly superwash merino
but also blends of bamboo, seacell, silk or cashmere
have been collecting in my stash, waiting for the right
But many times I want to transform the yarn into
a different project than socks so I can wear the beautiful colors
where everybody can see them. Ruby Red was designed with
sock yarn on my mind.
The cardigan, while taking
advantage of soft hand
dyed merino yarn, is knit
on larger needles than are usually used for socks, which
results in fabric with beautiful drape.
Most of the body
is in stockinette stitch with simple lattice stitch pattern
to accentuate the waist and form sleeve cuffs and neckline.
Both these patterns show variegated or semi solid colors
really well. And because it is made
out of sock yarn, Ruby
Red is superwash, which
makes it a truly versatile every day cardigan for many
model: Anna Mikuskova photos: Dusty Burrill
SIZE XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] Shown in size S, worn with 0 inches of ease.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
US 3/3.25mm circular needle,
32 inches or longer
1 US 4/3.75mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
1 set US 3/3.25mm double-point needles
1 set US 4/3.75mm double-point needles Note: Double-point needles
are used for working sleeves.
If preferred, use two circular
needles or one long circular
needle (using Magic Loop
10 stitch markers
Four buttons of desired size (button loops are made to fit buttons)
24 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using larger needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
This pattern uses a provisional cast on. Any provisional cast on method may be used. Directions for one method can be found here.
LT (Left Twist): Bring right needle behind left needle
and knit into back of second stitch on left needle without
dropping st from needle; knit into front of first stitch
on left needle, drop both stitches from left needle.
RT (Right Twist): K2tog but do not drop sts from left needle,
knit again into first st on left needle, drop both stitches
from left needle.
LPT (Left Purl Twist): Slip next st to cable needle and
hold to front of work; p1 from left needle, k1 from cable
RPT (Right Purl Twist): Slip next st to cable needle and
hold to back of work; k1 from left needle, p1 from cable
m1p (Make 1 purl stitch): Insert left
needle, from back to front, under
strand of yarn which runs
between last stitch on
left needle and first stitch
on right needle; purl this stitch. 1 st increased (stitch
will be twisted).
Using provisional CO method and smaller circular
needle, CO 186[198, 224, 246, 270, 296, 320] sts.
Do not join
work; piece is worked back and forth in rows.
Set-up Row [RS]: K46[49, 56,
61, 67, 74, 79], place marker, p1, place marker, k92[98,
110, 122, 134, 146, 160], place marker, p1, place marker,
k46[49, 56, 61, 67, 74, 79].
Single sts between each pair
of markers will be referred to as seam sts. Work these sts
in reverse stockinette st throughout; they will form a faux
seam at each side of cardigan.
Work 10 rows in stockinette st, ending with a RS row.
K 1 WS row, forming turning
ridge for hem.
Using larger circular needle,
work 10 rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row. From
this point, lower body is worked using larger needle.
Carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge, placing resulting
live sts on smaller needle.
Fold work along turning ridge,
so that WS of hem facing meets WS of hem, and sts of CO edge
sit directly behind sts on working needle.
Joining Row [RS]: Working in stockinette st with seam sts
in reverse stockinette st as set, [work next st on left needle
together with next st of CO edge] until all sts have been
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, work in pattern as set to last 2
sts, p1, k1. This row sets pattern for lower body: first
and last 2 sts of row are worked in 1x1 Rib as set.
Work 20 more rows in pattern
Lattice Band: Set-up Row [RS]: K1, p1, k6[7,
7, 5, 8, 8, 6], place marker, work Row 1 of Lattice Pattern
A over next 32[32, 40, 48, 48, 56, 64] sts, place marker,
k6[8, 7, 6, 9, 8, 7] (to next marker), p1, k6[9, 7, 5,
7, 5, 8], place marker, work Row 1 of Lattice Pattern A
over next 80[80, 96, 112, 120, 136, 144] sts, place marker,
k6[9, 7, 5, 7, 5, 8] (to next marker), p1, k6[8, 7, 6,
9, 8, 7], place marker, work Row 1 of Lattice Pattern A
over next 32[32, 40, 48, 48, 56, 64] sts, place marker,
k6[7, 7, 5, 8, 8, 6], p1, k1.
This row sets pattern for lattice
band. Working Lattice Pattern A over sts between newly placed
markers as set, work 38 more rows in pattern: you will have
worked Rows 1-16 of chart twice, then Rows 1-7 once more.
On next row, remove lattice
band markers, leaving seam markers in place.
Continue in stockinette st, working front edge sts and seam
sts as set, until work measures 15 inches or desired length
to underarm, ending with a RS row.
Remove markers when working next row. Next Row [WS]: [Work in pattern
to 3[4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12] sts before seam st, BO 7[9, 13,
13, 17, 21, 25] sts] twice, continue in pattern to end.
172[180, 198, 220, 236, 254, 270] sts: 43[45, 50, 55, 59,
64, 67] sts for each front, 86[90, 98, 110, 118, 126, 136]
sts for back.
Do not break yarn. Set aside and work sleeves.
Using smaller double-point needles, CO 64[64, 72,
80, 80, 88, 88] sts.
Divide sts evenly
between needles and join to
work in the round, being careful
not to twist.
Work in stockinette st until sleeve measures 2[2, 1, 1,
2, 2, 2] inches from top of cuff.
Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
K 6[6, 5, 4, 4, 4, 5] rounds.
Repeat these 7[7, 6, 5, 5,
5, 6] rounds 9[8, 12, 15, 13, 13, 9] times more, then work
Decrease Round once more. 67[69, 72, 77, 81, 92, 100] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until sleeve measures 14 inches
or desired length to underarm.
Next Round: K to last 4[5, 7, 7, 9, 11, 13] sts, BO 7[9,
13, 13, 17, 21, 25] sts. Place remaining 60[60, 59, 64, 64,
71, 75] sts on hold on smaller circular needle (or spare
set of double-point needles).
Make second sleeve in the same way. When sleeve is complete,
do not remove from working
YOKE Joining Row [RS]: Using circular needle and yarn attached
to lower body, work 43[45,
50, 55, 59, 64, 67] sts of right front, place marker, work
60[60, 59, 64, 64, 71, 75] sts of one sleeve, place marker,
work 86[90, 98, 110, 118, 126, 136] sts of back, place marker,
work 60[60, 59, 64, 64, 71, 75] sts of remaining sleeve,
place marker, work 43[45, 50, 55, 59, 64, 67] sts of left
front. 292[300, 316, 348, 364, 396, 420] sts.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, [k to
3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk] four
times, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 18[19,
20, 24, 25, 28, 30] times more. 140[140, 148, 148, 156, 164,
Note: In Lattice Pattern A, odd-numbered rows were RS rows;
for Lattice Pattern B, odd-numbered rows are WS rows.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, work
Row 1 of Lattice Pattern B to last 2 sts, k1, p1.
Working 2 sts at each edge
as set, Work Rows 2-16 of Lattice Pattern B.
BO all sts in pattern.
Weave in ends and block to measurements shown in schematic.
Try sweater on to determine best placement for buttons along left front
edge of cardigan; use photo as guide for suggested placement. Sew buttons
Work sewn button loops along right front edge of cardigan, opposite buttons
(see linked articles in Pattern notes).
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Anna learned to
knit at age seven and has not
stopped ever since. She grew
up in the Czech Republic in a family of lifelong knitters and
now lives in Maine where she enjoys
a proximity of many great yarn
stores and sweater weather
all year round.