No matter your relationship interests or status, everyone craves
a little bit of passion and danger...and
there's nothing more passionate and dangerous than a vampire
The entwined gothic heart cable appears on the front and the
back of the sock. The cable design flows
organically from the customized ribbing, down the leg and along
the top of the foot. I've also kept the cable flowing down to
the heel -- engineered carefully so that the heel features a
full repeat of the heart -- because heel stitch would look boring
beside such patterning! And the toe finishes after a full heart
on the sides... it looks like a simple 2-over-2 cable, but
if you look closely, you can see two tell-tale eyelet holes.
My vampire boyfriend is Spike; our editor's is Lestat
(but only the book version), and the co-owner of one of our
LYSs is all about Edward. My test knitter professes an odd
fondness for Nosferatu, and the other Knitty tech editor crushes
on David Bowie's character in The Hunger. Not forgetting
Angel and Bill, of course - there are plenty of sexy vampires
to go around.
Women's S[M, L]
Circumference: 7[7.5, 8] inches
Leg and foot length: To fit
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
set US #1.5/2.5mm double-point needles OR
2 US #1.5/2.5mm circular needles, 24 inches or longer OR
1 32 inch long US #1.5/2.5mm circular needle for magic loop method
ring marker or safety pin
30 sts/46 rounds = 4" in stockinette stitch
36 sts/46 rounds = 4" in pattern stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
You may find it easier to work at least the leg section using
two circular needles or the magic loop technique, as cable crosses
are worked over most of the stitches of both the front and back
of the leg.
Note that the bitemark cable repeat is worked over an uneven number
of rounds. There are two even rounds between the
second eyelet and the cable turn. It makes working the
pattern a little more challenging, but after much experimentation,
I found that it looked best.
Because of the cable crossings, these socks aren't as
elastic as some. Make sure you match
gauge and choose the right size to fit.
C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle
and hold to back of work; k2 from left needle, k2 from
cable needle. C4F: Slip next 2 sts
to cable needle and hold to front of
work; k2 from left needle, k2 from
cable needle. C4BP: Slip next 2
sts to cable needle and hold to back
of work; k2 from left needle, p2 from
cable needle. C4FP: Slip next 2
sts to cable needle and hold to front
of work; p2 from left needle, k2 from
cable needle. C3BP: Slip next st
to cable needle and hold to back of
work; k2 from left needle, p1 from
cable needle. C3FP: Slip next 2
sts to cable needle and hold to front
of work; p1 from left needle, k2 from
Triple Decrease: Slip
next 2 sts together, knitwise, as if
to work a k2tog. K2tog, then pass both
slipped sts together over [k2tog] just
worked. 3 sts decreased.
ssp: Slip next 2 sts
knitwise, one at a time, to right needle.
Slip them both, purlwise, back to left
needle. Purl them together through
their back loops.
s2pp: With yarn held
to back of work, slip next 2 sts purlwise
to right needle. P next st, then pass
slipped sts, together, over st just
CO 60[64, 68] sts. Divide sts between needles and join for
working in the round, being careful not
to twist. After several rounds have been
worked, place split ring marker or safety pin in work to indicate
beginning of round.
Ribbing: Round 1: *P5[6, 7], [k4, p2] twice, k4,
p5[6, 7], work Round 1 of Bitemark Cable; repeat from * once
Round 2: *P5[6, 7], k4, p2, C4B, p2,
k4, p5[6, 7], work next round of Bitemark Cable; repeat from
* once more.
Round 3: *P5[6, 7], [k4, p2] twice, k4,
p5[6, 7], work next round of Bitemark Cable; repeat from * once
Rounds 4-5: Work as for Round 3.
Round 6: Work as for Round 2.
Rounds 7-8: Work as for Round 3.
Round 9: *P5[6, 7], m1p, [k4, p2] twice,
k4, m1p, p5[6, 7], work next round of Bitemark Cable; repeat
from * once more. 64[68, 72] sts.
Next Round: *P1[2, 3], work Round 1 of Heart Cable, p1[2,
3], work next round of Bitemark Cable; repeat from * once more.
This round sets pattern for leg. Continue
in pattern as set until work measures approx. 6.5[6.5, 6.25]
inches or desired length, ending with Round 4[2, 20] of Heart
HEEL FLAP Set-up Row [RS]: P1[2, 3], work Row 5[3, 1] of Modified
Heart Cable, p1[2, 3].
Heel flap will be worked back and forth
over these 28[30, 32] sts; all other sts are held on needles
Continue working sts of heel flap in
pattern until you have completed Row 26 (a WS row) of Modified
Heart Cable. (Note that you will not work Row 27 of chart when
working heel flap.)
TURN HEEL Row 1 [RS]: K19[20, 21], ssk. Turn work. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p10, p2tog. Turn work. Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k10, ssk. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 2-3 6[7, 8] times more, then
work Row 2 once more. 12 heel sts remain.
With RS facing, k 12 sts of heel; pick
up and k 14[15, 16] sts along adjacent
edge of heel flap, place marker; work all
sts of instep in pattern, place marker;
pick up and k 14[15, 16] sts along remaining edge of heel flap;
k first 6 sts of heel. This point (center of heel) will now
be beginning of round. 76[80,
84] sts: 36[38, 40] sts for instep, 40[42,
44] sts for sole and gusset.
Redistribute sts on needle(s) as desired.
For ease of working heart cable, place all instep sts on one
Set-up Round: K6, k13[14, 15] tbl, p1 tbl; work all sts of instep
in pattern; p1 tbl, k13[14, 15] tbl, p1 tbl, k6.
Gusset Decrease Round: K to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog,
p1, work in pattern to next marker, p1, ssk, k to end of round.
2 sts decreased. Next Round: K to 1 st before first marker,
p1, work in pattern to next marker, p1, k to end of round.
Repeat these 2 rounds 5 times more. 64[68,
72] sts: 36[38, 40] sts for instep, 28[30, 32] sts for sole.
Continue in pattern, working Heart and Bitemark cables as
set, until work measures approx. 2 inches less than desired length,
ending between Rounds 9 and 20 of Heart
Note last round of Heart Cable worked.
As you shape the toe, switch to working Modified Heart Cable
chart, beginning with round number that
follows last round of Heart Cable worked. (For example, if you
ended with Round 20 of Heart Cable, begin with Round 21 of Modified
Heart Cable). Once Round 27 of Modified Heart Cable is complete,
work sts of instep in reverse stockinette st (p all sts), continuing
Bitemark Cables as set.
Toe Decrease Round: K to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, p1;
work sts of Bitemark Cable in pattern, ssp, work in pattern to
6 sts before next marker, p2tog, work sts of Bitemark Cable in
pattern, p1, ssk, k to end of round. 4 sts decreased.
Work 3 rounds in pattern.
Work Toe Decrease Round. Work 2 rounds in pattern.
Repeat these 3 rounds once more.
Work Toe Decrease Round. Work 1 round in pattern.
Repeat these 2 rounds twice more.
Work Toe Decrease Round 4[5, 6] times more. 21 sts. Note: Sts on needles will appear as follows,
counting from beginning of round: 3 k sts, 1 p st, 4 sts of
Bitemark Cable, 5 p sts, 4 sts of Bitemark Cable, 1 p st, 3
Break yarn, leaving a tail approx. 8 inches long. Use yarn needle
to draw tail through remaining sts, and pull tight.
Weave in ends and block. You don't need
any special tools; just get the socks
wet, roll them in a towel to wring
them out, and put them on. Take them off again immediately,
and hang them to dry.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Kate is Knitty's technical editor for socks. She loves a good vampire
story almost as much as she loves sock knitting. (Ask her about
Spike and Angel as an allegory for the Lennon-McCartney relationship...)