My interest in knitting
has been kept alive over the years by the
almost infinite variety of color, pattern,
and texture that is found in collections
of knitters and museums around the world.
Although I love the smooth, quiet repetition
of knitting a rectangular scarf in garter
stitch using a luxurious yarn, it is the
endless diversity of technique and style
that keeps me interested in knitting as
more than a way to keep my hands busy while
watching TV.
“It’s a
dangerous business, Frodo, going out your
door. You step onto the road, and if you
don’t keep your feet, there’s
no knowing where you might be swept off
to.”
--from The Lord of The Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien
C'mon Baby, Let's do the
(Bavarian) Twist In Austria and the Bavarian
region of Germany, knitters are famous for making
finely knit garments decorated with intricate
traveling twisted stitches. These ornate stitch
patterns were used on socks in the eighteenth
and nineteenth centuries, and knitters began
using them on sweaters in the early twentieth
century.
On both socks and sweaters, these designs
are made up of twisted knit stitches forming
vertical panels on a background of purls. Made
from light-weight yarn, the fabric is densely
packed with high-relief textured stitches that
draw the material in like ribbing. This feature
makes it easy to create a body-hugging sweater,
but difficult to measure gauge. Because the
fabric is quite stretchy, it is easy to distort
when wet.
Many sweaters from
Austria and Bavaria were knitted back and
forth in pieces, and sewn together in the
style of jackets made from woven fabric. Snug
at the waist, with a low scooped neckline,
these form-fitting sweaters were often worn
with dirndl skirts in the regional style.
Men and women also wore fitted vests, or
waistcoats, made with similar pattern stitches.
Traditional designs featured
twisted stitch panels on either side of the
front opening of a vest or cardigan and a central
panel on the back. The sides and sleeves were
often decorated with simpler knit and purl
patterns to make shaping easier. Today, sweaters
with Bavarian twisted traveling stitches are
made in many different styles, but the classic
fitted cardigan — covered completely with ornate
panels of lattices, zigzags, and diamonds,
and braids — is most common.
Bavarian socks were
made in two styles. Knee socks were made
with columns of pattern stitches encircling
the entire leg, and a special increase section
at the center back for calf shaping. The
second popular style was knit in stockinette
stitch or ribbing with triangular panel of
pattern stitches on each side of the leg, with
gusset increases, worked in a simple texture
stitch, in the center.
Here's How Charts for twisted traveling
stitches in American, or English-language,
books treat the twists as small cables and
use the same symbols for these stitches as
they do for cable charts. In the German-language
books I have for twisted traveling stitches,
the charts are made without a grid and with
letters or numbers standing for the basic stitches.
For example:
In Bäuerliches Striken, a twisted knit
is V,
and a purl is ~
In Überlieferte Strickmuster aus dem Steirischen
Ennstal, a twisted knit is 8,
and a purl is
-
In both book series, the movement of the stitches
is indicated by diagonal lines. In the former,
the diagonal lines are red and in the latter,
they have small arrowheads. The arrow indicating
the direction of the motion is shown between
the chart rows, beneath the stitch(es) that
are moving on the surface of the knitting.
Rather than focusing on the action to be performed
-- such as "put 1 stitch on a cable needle
and hold it to the back" -- these charts
focus on the motion of the stitches -- such
as "move the third stitch in the row
to the left over the fourth stitch" or "move
the eight stitch in the row to the right over
the seventh stitch." Although that sounds
clunky when converted to words, these charts
are not meant to be read verbally. The process
of knitting from these charts is very visual
and intuitive. Rather than following instructions
that are often confusing -- it is very common
for English-speaking knitters to accidentally
twist cables the wrong way even when following
charts -- the knitter is mean to "draw" a
picture with the twisted stitches, and to focus
on how the stitches move on the surface of
the knitting to create diagonal lines that
cross on top of other knits and purls in the
background.
Take
a look at the sample chart at right, and see
if you can knit the pattern. Because we're
knitting in the round, all rows are read from
right to left. I've numbered them for your
convenience, but the rows are not numbered
in the German-language books.
Let's read through the first few rows together.
Then cast on a swatch, and try to knit this
without converting the symbols to words. Just
by moving the stitches where you want them
to go. You can do this either with or without
a cable needle. But focus on the design you
are making and not on the symbols or placement
of the cable needle.
Row 1: K2tbl, p1,
k2tbl, p1, k1tbl, p2, work the next 2 twisted
stitches so the one on the left moves across
the surface of the knitting over the one on
the right, p2, k1tbl, p1
Row 2: K2tbl, p1, move the next 2
twisted stitches toward the left across the
surface of the knitting over the purl stitch
that follows them, *move the next 1 twisted
stitch toward the left over the purl stitch
that follows it, move the second stitch on
the left needle to the right over the purl
stitch that is before it, repeat from * once
more -- do you see how you are creating two
inverted V shapes in the knitting? -- purl
the last stitch.
Row 3: K2tbl, p2, move the next
2 twisted stitches toward the left across
the surface of the knitting over the purl
stitch that follows them, *move the next
1 twisted stitch toward the left over the
knit stitch that follows it but purl that
stitch, p2, *move the next 1 twisted stitch
toward the right over the knit stitch that
comes before it but purl that stitch -- do
you see how you are crossing the knits over
each other at the top of the two inverted
V shapes? -- purl the last 2 stitches.
Obviously, you can knit from
these charts using a legend, just as you knit
from English-language charts, but I think that
adding the step of looking up each symbol and
converting it into words before knitting it,
makes the process more difficult and error
prone. By internalizing the chart symbols and
thinking of them as a drawing of what you are
knitting, and by reading your knitting and
looking at what you have completed and thinking
about where each stitch needs to go in the
row you are knitting to draw the diagonal lines,
you can become very proficient at working the
twisted traveling stitches, as well as other
cables. Once you master this technique, you
may even find that it is easier to knit cables
from photographs of knitted fabric than from
charts!
Inspired by the traditional Bavarian socks photographed
in Bäuerliches Stricken, these socks are made with
a modern twist.
Rather than working the increases at the
center of the twisted stitch panel to add
extra stitches for a gusset, I paired them
with mirrored decreases on the opposite side
of the leg to create a diagonal pattern in
the ribbing. I continued to work the paired
increases and decreases on the foot, to move
the twisted stitch panel diagonally across
the foot. "Spiegel" means "mirror" in German.
The pattern stitches and the
heel flap length are worked so that no gusset shaping is
required on the foot.
photos: Donna
Druchunas
SIZE
Men's S [M, L]
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Circumference: 8 [9, 10] inches Foot Length: 10 [11, 12] inches, or knit to desired length
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] US
#1.5/2.5mm needles for working in the
round Note: If you choose to work the cables without a cable needle, using metal
needles with a very sharp point will make working the stitch crossings
much easier.
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
SSP: Slip the next 2 sts
knitwise, one by one, insert the left needle into the front
of the 2 slipped sts from left to right, remove the right needle
then insert it into the back of the 2 stitches together from
left to right, then complete the stitch as you normally purl.
M1: Use whichever
M1 you prefer. If you have trouble creating
the M1 increases because of the tightness
of the fabric around the twisted stitches,
use a backwards-loop CO to add 1 stitch
at the specified location, then work that
stitch as charted on subsequent rows.
Working the Twists with a cable needle 1/1 RT: Slip next st to
cable needle and hold in back of work;
k1 tbl, then k1 tbl from cable needle. 1/1 LT: Slip next st to
cable needle and hold in front of work;
k1 tbl, then k1 tbl from cable needle. 1/1 RPT: Slip next st
to cable needle and hold in back of work;
k1 tbl, then p1 from cable needle. 1/1 LPT: Slip next st
to cable needle and hold in front of work;
p1, then k1 tbl from cable needle. 2/1 RT: Slip next st to
cable needle and hold in back of work;
k2 tbl, then k1 tbl from cable needle. 2/1 LT: Slip next 2 sts
to cable needle and hold in front of work;
k1 tbl, then k2 tbl from cable needle. 2/1 RPT: Slip next st
to cable needle and hold in back of work;
k2 tbl, then p1 from cable needle. 2/1 LPT: Slip next 2 sts
to cable needle and hold in front of work;
p1, then k2 tbl from cable needle. 2/2 RT: Slip next 2 sts
to cable needle and hold in back of work;
k2 tbl, then k2 tbl from cable needle.
Working the Twists without a cable needle 1/1 LT, 1/1 LPT | Left Traveling
Stitch
With the right-hand needle in back of the
work, skip the first stitch on the left-hand needle and insert
the tip of the needle into the back leg of the second stitch.
Drop both of the stitches off of the right-hand needle. The
first stitch will fall free. Insert the left needle into the
dropped knit stitch, then slide the other stitch back onto
the left needle. Knit or purl the first stitch as indicated
on the chart, then knit the second stitch through the back
loop.
1/1 RT, 1/1 RPT | Right Traveling Stitch
With the right-hand needle in front of the
work, skip the first stitch on the left-hand
needle and insert the tip of the needle into the second stitch
purlwise. Drop both of the stitches off of the right needle.
The first stitch will fall free. Insert the left needle into
the dropped knit stitch, then slide the other stitch back
onto the left needle. Knit the first stitch though the back
loop, then knit or purl the second stitch as indicated on
the chart.
2/1 LT, 2/1 LPT|Double
Left Traveling Stitch
With the right-hand needle in back of the
work, skip the first 2 stitches on the left-hand needle and
insert the tip of the needle into the back leg of the third
stitch. Drop all three of the stitches off of the right-hand
needle. The first 2 stitches will fall free. Insert the left
needle into the dropped stitch, then slide the other stitches
back onto the left needle. Knit or purl the first stitch as
indicated on the chart, then knit the second and third stitches
through the back loop.
2/1 RT, 2/1 RPT | Double Right Traveling
Stitch
With the right-hand needle in front of the
work, skip the first stitch on the left-hand needle and insert
the tip of the needle into the second and third stitches purlwise.
Drop all three of the stitches off of the right needle. The
first stitch will fall free. Insert the left needle into the
dropped knit stitch, then slide the other stitches back onto
the left needle. Knit the first two stitches though the back
loop, then knit or purl the third stitch as indicated on the
chart.
2/2 RC | Double Right Cross
With the right-hand needle in front of the
work, skip the first two stitches on the left-hand needle and
insert the tip of the needle into the third and fourth stitches
purlwise. Drop all four of the stitches off of the right needle.
The first 2 stitches will fall free. Insert the left needle
into the dropped knit stitches, then slide the other stitches
back onto the left needle. Knit all four stitches through the
back loop.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very large.
Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting page.
Cuff
Using long-tail method, CO 66[72, 78] sts.
Distribute sts across needles as you prefer and join
for working in the round being careful not
to twist.
Ribbing round: [K2, p1] around.
Work ribbing as set for 1 inch.
Leg Round 1, establish patterns: Work 15 [18, 21] sts
in ribbing as set, pm, k2, pm, work 15 [18, 21] sts in ribbing,
pm, work 5 sts in ribbing, pm, work Chart A over next 24 sts,
pm, work rem 5 sts in ribbing as set to end of round.
Work as set until round 15 of the chart is complete.
Following round, chart round 16:
Work in ribbing as est to 2 sts before
first marker, ssp, slip marker, k2, slip
marker, p2tog, work to end of round in
patts as est (including 2 increases as
charted).
Continue working in this fashion following
chart A. When working chart rows 20, 24, and 28, work charted
increases as written and decreases around marker as per chart
round 16.
When all rows of Chart A are complete change to charts B, C,
and D in pattern area as follows: Maintaining ribbing as established,
work Chart B over first 16 sts of Chart A area, m1 (this is
the first stitch of the first row of Chart C), work chart D
over last 16 sts of patterned area. 67[73, 79] sts.
Each time there is an increase in Chart C, work decreases in
ribbing on the following round as above.
When Chart C complete, work even in patts as est until leg
measures 8 inches from CO edge or desired
length to heel.
Heel Flap Next rnd, setup for heel: Work in patts as est to
center stitch (stitch #7) of Chart C panel.
Right sock: Work center stitch of gusset panel. The 32[36,
40] sts just worked are the heel sts.
Left sock: Beginning with center stitch
of gusset panel, work in pattern across next 32[36, 40] sts
for the heel.
Leave the next remaining 35[37, 39] sts
on spare needle or holder for instep to be worked later.
Turn so that WS is facing.
Row 1 [WS]: Sl 1, purl across.
Row 2 [RS]: (Sl1 k1) across.
Rep Rows 1 & 2 until 22[22, 24)] rows have been
worked on heel flap. Work Row 1 once more.
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 8[9,10] more times, until 12[14, 16]
sts rem in heel.
Final row [RS]: Sl 1, k11[13,
15].
Foot
From here, the instep sts will continue
the patterning as set by the leg. You'll be working Chart
B/D, the ribbing and half of Chart C.
With RS facing, pick up and knit 11[11, 12] sts along first
edge of heel flap, using slipped sts as a guide. Work
across instep sts in patts as established. Pick up and
knit 11[11, 12] sts along second edge of heel flap, using slipped
sts as a guide. Work across heel sts as follows: K2tog, k8[10,
12], ssk. 32[36, 40] sts rem in heel, 67 [73, 79] sts total.
Foot round: K to start of instep; work across instep in patts
as est; k to end of round.
Work 2 more rounds even as set, worked
Chart C sts as set and continuing Chart B/D patt.
Right sock, shaping round: K to start of instep;
work across instep in patt as set to end
of Chart C gusset marker, m1, slip marker,
work as set to 2 sts before end of instep,
ssp; k to end of round.
Left sock, shaping round: K to start of
instep; p2tog, work across instep in patt
as set to end of Chart C gusset marker,
m1, slip marker, work to end of instep
as set; k to end of round.
Work 3 rounds even.
Repeat the above four rounds, taking increased gusset sts into
gusset pattern until only 1 st rems between chart panel and
instep.
At this point, patterns end and instep is worked in St st
until foot is desired length to toe: Next round: Knit.
Work even until
foot measures 6[6.75, 7.5] inches or 2.5[2.75,
3] inches short of full foot length.
Toe
Setup round, size S only: [K2tog, k20] 3 times, k1. 64 sts.
Setup round, size M, L: K2tog, k to end
of round. -[72, 78] sts.
Rearrange sts so that sts so half of the
sts are in sole and half in the top of foot. Start of round
is at center of sole.
Rnd 1: Knit to last 3 sts on sole, k2tog, k2, ssk,
knit to last 3 sts of instep, k2tog, k2 ssk, knit to end of
rnd. 4 sts decreased. Rnd 2: Knit.
Repeat Rnds 1 & 2 until 32[36, 38] sts rem, then
work Rnd 1 only until 8[8, 10] sts rem.
FINISHING
Cut yarn, leaving a 6 inch tail.
Thread tail through all remaining sts, and pull gently to close, then secure
tail to inside.
Take
a look at the sample chart at right, and see
if you can knit the pattern. Because we're
knitting in the round, all rows are read from
right to left. I've numbered them for your
convenience, but the rows are not numbered
in the German-language books.
