Top down techniques of sweater construction have always been
a favorite - try it on as you work - feel confident
that it fits and fits you well.
This versatile piece features a self collar in a
simple, classic, reversible twisted rib. The rib
continues down the front border and in the raglan
increase. The garment is designed to end at the top
of the hip, but can easily be lengthened. The stockinette
body has overlapping front bands, a slight swing shaping, and
can be worn loose and straight or wrapped with
a shawl pin or a thin belt.
Short rows are worked
at the hem before the band to taper the hem a bit,
which is a good look for every body type. The sleeves
are also slightly tapered and end with a deep portion
of the reversible twisted rib. You can wear them
down or cuff them.
Chickadee from Quince & Co is a color saturated, springy
plied yarn that holds its shape and pops the stitches, all with
a good bit of snap.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 24
and 32-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needles 16,
24 and 32-inch US #5/3.75mm circular
needles one
set US
#5/3.75mm DPNs
Notions stitch
markers yarn needle smooth waste yarn or extra cables to
hold sleeve stitches
GAUGE
22 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10cm
in stockinette with US #5 needle
24 sts/32 rows = 4 inches/10cm in twisted rib
(blocked) with US #5 needle
28 sts/34 rows = 4 inches/10cm in twisted rib
(blocked) with US #4 needle
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Twist: K 2nd st on LH needle,
do not drop stitch from needle, k 1st st
on LH needle, slip both sts off LH needle.
Purl twist: P 2nd st on LH needle, do not
drop stitch from needle, p 1st st on LH needle,
slip both sts off LH needle.
M1L: With left needle tip, lift the strand
of yarn between the last worked st on RH
needle and the first stitch on LH needle, from
front to back. Knit lifted loop through the
back. This makes a left slanted increase.
M1R: With left needle tip, lift the strand
of yarn between the last worked st on RH
needle and the first stitch on LH needle,
from back to front. Knit lifted loop through
the front. This makes a right slanted increase.
M1P: With yarn in front, with left needle
tip, lift the strand of yarn between the
last worked st on RH needle and the first
stitch on LH needle, from back to front.
Purl lifted loop.
Do not join new yarn at either edge of the work or within border
if possible.
Twisted Rib Pattern: Row 1 [RS]: p2, *k2, p2, rep from * Row 2 [WS]: twist, *p2, twist, rep from
* Row 3 [RS]: p2, *twist, p2, rep from * Row 4 [WS]: k2, *p2, k2, rep from *
DIRECTIONS
Collar
With US #4/3.5mm 24-inch needle, cast on
140[144, 160, 172, 180, 204, 216] sts.
If you are using a provisional cast on
and you object to the bumpy side being the RS
work optional setup row as follows:
Optional setup row [WS]: K1, *k2, p2, rep
from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p2, *k2, p2, rep from * to final st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, *twist, p2, rep from
* to last 3 sts, twist, k1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, p2, *twist, p2, rep from
* to final st, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: K1, *k2, p2, rep from * to
last 3 sts, k3.
Continue to work Rows 1-4 for 6[6, 6.5,
7, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5] inches or to desired
length/depth of collar, ending with Row 4.
Note: At this point the RS is renamed
the WS.
Yoke
Change to US #5 needles.
Establish yoke
pattern, creating the placement of the raglan increases.
Note: on the setup row there is an
increase followed by 2 markers. You will
move the markers apart on the next
row.
Row 1 [RS]: (left front band) K1, (twist, p2) 8[8,
9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1,
sl m; (left front) remove next marker,
k1, M1R, replace marker, p1, twist, p1,
sl m; (left shoulder) M1L, k12[12, 12,
12, 12, 16,
16], M1R, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m; (back)
M1L, k28[32, 40, 44, 44, 52, 56], M1R,
sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m; (right shoulder) M1L, k12[12, 12,
12, 12, 16, 16], M1R, sl m, p1, twist, p1, sl m, remove next
marker; (right front) M1L, k1, replace marker; (right front
band) p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times,
k1. 150[154, 170, 182, 190, 214, 226] sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13]
times, p2, k1, sl m, p2, sl m; k1, p2, k1,
sl m, p14[14, 14, 14, 14, 18, 18], sl m;
k1, p2, k1, sl m, p30[34, 42, 46, 46, 54,
58], sl m; k1, p2, k1, sl m, p14[14, 14,
14, 14 18, 18], sl m; k1, p2, k1, sl m, p2,
sl m, k1, p2, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times,
k2, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m,
p1, k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more
times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2,
(p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 158[162, 178, 190,
198, 222, 234] sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m; *p to
next marker, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep
from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9,
10,11, 12, 13] times, k1.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1, sl m; *k
to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, twist, p1,
sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 times; k to next
marker, sl m, p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8,
9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 166[170, 186, 198, 206, 230, 242]
sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 6 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 8[8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m, *p to
next marker, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep
from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m,
k1, p2, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12,
13] times, k1.
Rep Rows 3-6 8[10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16] more times for yoke of
cardigan changing to longer needle length when needed. 128[160,
176, 192, 224, 240, 256] raglan sts increased.
AT THE SAME TIME:
Make an increase at the edge of the front
border on RS every 20 rows as follows (Note:
for XS size work
increase row on rows 16 and 36): Front border increase row [RS]: Work
in pattern as established to first marker, sl m, kfb, work to 2
sts before the last marker, kfb, k1, sl m, work to end of row.
2 sts increased.
Note: The increase row should be worked
2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] times within the
raglan increase section before the sleeve
stitches are put on hold. 4[4, 4, 4,
4, 6, 6] sts increased between front band and
front section.
298[334, 366, 394, 434, 476, 504] sts
in total, which includes the 144[176, 192, 208, 240, 256, 272]
raglan sts increased.
Note: At this point, work should measure 5.25[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7.5,
8, 8.5] inches from back neck and there
should be 66[78, 90, 98, 106, 118, 126]
back sts between the markers.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times,
k2, p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m,
p1, k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more
times; k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2,
(p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 306[342, 374, 402,
442, 484, 512] sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, (p2, k2) 8[8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13] times, p2, k1, sl m; *p to next marker, M1L-p, sl m,
k1, p2, k1, sl m, M1R-p, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker,
sl m, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 8[8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 314[350,
382, 410, 450, 492, 520] sts. 8 sts increased.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, (twist, p2) 8[8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13] times, twist, p1, sl m; *k
to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1, twist, p1,
sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 times; k to next
marker, sl m, p1, twist, (p2, twist) 8[8,
9, 10, 11, 12, 13] times, k1. 322[358, 390, 418, 458, 500, 528]
sts. 8 sts increased.
Size XS only: Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 8 times,
p2, k1, sl m, *p to next marker, sl m,
k1, p2, k1, sl m, rep from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m, k1,
p2, (twist, p2) 8 times, k1.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, (k2, p2) 8 times, k2,
p1, sl m; *k to next marker, M1L, sl m, p1,
k2, p1, sl m, M1R, rep from * 3 more times;
k to next marker, sl m, p1, k2, (p2, k2)
8 times, k1. 330 sts. 8 sts increased.
Sizes L[1X, 2X, 3X] only:
Row 4 [WS]: K1, (p2, twist) 10[11, 12,
13] times, p2, k1, sl m, *p to next marker,
M1L-p, sl m, k1, p2, k1, sl m, M1R-p, rep
from * 3 times; p to next marker, sl m,
k1, p2, (twist, p2) 10[11, 12, 13] times, k1. 426[466, 508,
536] sts. 8 sts increased.
Separate for sleeves:
At this point you should have 58[64,
68, 76, 84, 92, 96] sts between the markers for each sleeve.
Next row [WS]: Work front band and front section, remove raglan
marker and work 4 st raglan twist in pattern as established,
*remove marker, slip next 58[64, 68, 76, 84, 92, 96] sts to waste
yarn for sleeve; CO 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] underarm sts, pm, CO
4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] underarm sts, remove marker*; work raglan
twist, work across back and raglan twist as established to second
marker and repeat from * to *; work in pattern as set to end.
230[246, 274, 302, 330, 356, 380] sts remain around body.
Note: Place a marker in the fabric of cast on stitches as well
as on the needle, to assist with pick up for sleeve.
Body
Continuing to work the front borders
in twisted rib and body in stockinette as established, make
increases at the sides and front border edge as follows:
Front border increase row [RS]: Work in pattern as
established to first marker, sl m, kfb,
work to 2 sts before the last marker,
kfb, k1, sl m, work to end of row. 2
sts increased.
Side increase row [RS]: *Work to 3 stitches before
side marker, M1R, k3, sl m, k3, M1L;
rep from * one more time; work to end of
row. 4 sts increased.
Work Front border increase row on the RS every 20 rows 4 times.
8 sts increased.
AT THE SAME TIME: Work Side
increase row on the RS every 1.5 inches 5 times.
You will
have 258[274, 302, 330, 358, 384, 408] total body stitches, 190[206,
226, 246, 266, 284, 300] of which are in stockinette between the
front bands.
Work even until piece measures 6.5[6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5, 8] inches
from underarm or 3 inches less than desired
finished length, ending with the front
bands worked in Row 4 of Twisted rib pattern.
Work short rows as follows: Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern as established
to second side marker,w&t. Row 2 [WS]: P to other side marker, w&t. Row 3 [RS]: K to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8]
sts before previous wrap, w&t. Row 4 [WS]: P to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8]
sts before previous wrap, w&t. Row 5 [RS]: K to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8]
sts before previous wrap, w&t. Row 6 [WS]: P to 6[6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8]
sts before previous wrap, w&t. Row 7 [RS]: Work in pattern as established
to end of row. Row 8 [WS]: Change back to US #4 needle
and increase 10[14, 18, 22, 26, 28, 32] sts evenly across the
stockinette section only. 268[288, 320, 352, 384, 412, 440] sts.
Hem Row 1 [RS]: K1, *twist, p2, rep from
* to last 3 sts, twist, k1. Row 2 [WS]: K1, p2, *twist, p2, rep from
* to final st, k1. Row 3 [RS]: K1, *k2, p2, rep from * to
last 3 sts, k3. Row 4 [WS]: K1, p2, *k2, p2, rep from
* to final st, k1.
Rep Rows 1-4 until hem measures 3 inches.
BO loosely in pattern on Row 1.
SLEEVES (work 2 the same)
Using US #5 16-inch needle, with RS facing
and starting at underarm marker, pick
up and knit 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] sts
from CO edge; slip 58[64, 68, 76, 84,
92, 96] held from waste yarn to needle and knit across them;
pick up and knit 4[4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7] cast on stitches, pm.
66[72, 78, 86, 96, 104, 110] sts.
Work in stockinette in the round for
3 inches.
Next rnd: K2, skp, k to last 4 sts, k2tog,
k2. 64[70, 76, 84, 94, 102, 108] sts.
2 sts decreased.
Continue to work in the round, decreasing
every 1.5 inches, 4[5, 4, 4, 5, 5, 4] times more. Change to DPNs
when needed. 56[60, 68, 76, 84, 92, 100] sts. 8[10, 8, 8, 10,
10, 8] sts decreased.
When sleeve measures 11 inches (or 5 inches less than desired
length) begin twisted rib cuff. Do not
change to smaller needle.
Rep Rnds 1-4 until cuff measures 5 inches ending with Rnd
1.
BO all sts in pattern.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and block.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Nell Ziroli lives in Atlanta in a little
house on a hill with her youngest daughter,
Haley. She comes from a family of knitters and otherwise crafty
people. Nell has been knitting, teaching
and designing for as long as she can remember.
