I love socks in bright, colorful self-striping yarns – but
for some time now, I have been a little bored with the usual
stripes running across the foot in the same old way every time.
I wanted lengthwise stripes, beautiful ones, without any disruption
of the pretty color changes. But none of the existing lengthwise-sock-patterns
would do that, because they are all use seams at some point.
So I came up with my own version: Longitudinal starts on one
side with Judy's Magic Cast-On, is knit lengthwise across to
the other side and grafted, so the flow of colors is perfectly
preserved.
Garter stitch makes the color changes even more interesting
and the sock a very easy knit – no purling required!
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
US #1.5/2.5 mm circular needle, 40 inch or longer
Notions yarn
needle 1 stitch marker a safety pin or removable stitch marker
Kitchener
Stitch: Pay particular attention to the
instructions on grafting garter stitch.
Because the sock is knitted lengthwise, the leg and foot length
are set by the number of cast-on stitches. You can modify
them (individually, or both) by casting on more or fewer stitches
in the appropriate section. Calculate the stitches required for
that section by taking the length you want and multiply that
by the number of sts per inch.
DIRECTIONS
Cast on 18[22, 27, 36, 38, 46, 49, 51,
55, 55, 56] stitches on each end of the
circular needle for the foot using Judy’s Magic Cast-on.
Place a marker after the last cast-on stitch on the bottom needle – this
will be used to place the heel – and then cast on 13[18,
25, 31, 38, 38, 42, 41, 44, 42, 49] more stitches onto each needle
for the leg. 62[80, 104, 134, 152, 168, 182, 184, 198, 194, 210]
sts total – 31[40,
52, 67, 76, 84, 91, 92, 99, 97, 105] on
each needle.
The bottom needle – the needle with the marker – is
the sole needle, and the marker indicated
where the heel will be worked.
A row of knitting goes down the front of the leg, over the top
of the foot, over the toes across the
sole, the heel and then up the back of
the leg. The toe-cap is worked at the
break between the two needles, and the
heel is worked on the point with the
stitch marker, on the bottom needle.
See photo above.
Check to make sure that the first st to be worked is on the
top needle. Note that if the stitches on one of the needles are
oriented the other work, knit them through the back loop on the
first row.
Setup row [RS]: Knit, working any twisted sts through
the back loop. Mark the RS of the fabric with a safety pin or
removable stitch marker.
The increases and decreases for the toes and the heel are always
knit on the inside [WS] of the sock.
Left section Row 1 [WS]: K to 1 st before
heel marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb,
k to last st of heel needle, kfb; on
top needle, kfb, k to end of row. Turn.
4 sts increased.
Right section Row 1 [WS]: K to 2 sts before
heel marker, k2tog, slip heel marker,
ssk, k to last 2 sts of sole needle,
k2tog; on top needle, ssk, k to end
of row. Turn. 4 sts decreased.
Row 2 [RS]: Knit all stitches
on both needles, turn work.
FINISHING Final row [RS]: Knit all stitches of the sole needle. Stop
at center of toe.
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail of approx. 60 inch. Join the stitches
using Kitchener stitch, making sure to maintain the garter stitch
pattern. Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Nicola Susen knits, designs and photographs
in Hamburg, Germany.
