Nelina is the second incarnation of a how-to-do-it question: How do you take hand-dyed or variegated yarns and make them look the absolute best in garments? Especially when they aren't semi-solids?
Well, what you do is keep the stitch counts consistent. And the way that came to my mind was diagonal panels!
Nelina is a raglan-ish cardigan with unusual construction. The body is worked in four diagonal panels to take advantage of the properties of hand-dyed yarns. And the panel construction with simple sleeves makes the yarn go far!
When seaming up the shoulders the fabric might look a little puckered. But as long as you stick to the single row of shoulder to one stitch of diagonal panel ratio, it will all work out just fine. A steam iron is your best friend for smoothing out those seams when all is said and done.
Choose an accent button that pops -- you only use one, so this is the perfect time to splurge on an extra fancy button -- maybe something handmade.
MATERIALS
Yarn Anzula Croquet [50% Merino, 50% Tussah Silk; 250 yd/229 m per 4 oz. skein]; color: Iris; 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6] skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 24-inch US #6/4.0mm circular needle Note: Straight needles can be used for the diagonal panels, but the neckline, though worked flat, requires a circular needle to accommodate the curves of the seamed sweater.
Notions one 0.75" accent button waste yarn or large stitch holders safety pins or removable markers to mark sleeve inseams yarn needle
GAUGE
18 sts/24 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
kfbf: knit into front of stitch, leaving on needle, knit into back of stitch, leaving on needle, knit into front of stitch again. 2 sts increased.
All slips are worked purlwise with the yarn to the back.
Row gauge is more important than stitch gauge on this sweater. The height of the sleeve caps and the width of the diagonal panels all depend on row gauge.
DIRECTIONS
RIGHT FRONT
CO 3 sts. Row 1 (RS): Sl1, kfbf , k1tbl.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p1, k1, p1, k1tbl.
Row 3: Sl1, p1, kfbf, p1, k1tbl.
Row 4: Sl1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1tbl.
Row 5: Sl1, k1, p1, kfbf, p1, k1, k1tbl.
Row 6: Sl1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1tbl.
Row 7: Sl1, p1, k1, p1, kfbf, p1, k1, p1, k1tbl.
Row 8: Sl1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, k1tbl.
Row 16: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to next m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Front Increasing Stripe Pattern Row 1: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 2: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to next m, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 3: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 4: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to next m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 14: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, k1 *k2tog; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 15: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, *kfb; rep from * to last st before m, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 16: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to next m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripes of stockinette and texture until there are 31[37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67] sts in between the markers (45[51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81] sts total), ending with a RS row. [**]
Next Row (WS): BO 7 sts, remove marker, work to end of row in patt as established – 38[44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74] sts rem.
Continue to work the RIGHT FRONT in the patterns below, ensuring the next row worked is the one following correctly from the stripe sequence.
Right Front Diagonal Stripe Pattern Row 1: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2: P to m, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 3: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 4: P to m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, kfb, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 14: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts before m, k2, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 15: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, *kfb; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 16: P to m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripe patt as established until short edge of Front measures 17[17, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19] inches, ending with a RS row.
Next Row (WS): BO 31[37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67] sts, remove m and work the last 7 sts of moss stitch in patt as established.
Place rem 7 Border sts on holder.
LEFT FRONT Work as for RIGHT FRONT up to [**], ending on a WS row.
Next Row (RS): BO 7 sts, remove marker, work to end in patt as established. 38[44, 50, 56, 62, 68, 74] sts rem.
Continue to work the LEFT FRONT in the patterns below, ensuring the next row worked is the one following correctly from the stripe sequence.
Left Front Diagonal Stripe Pattern Row 1: K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 2: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Row 3: K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 4: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 14: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, k2, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 15: K2, *kfb; rep from * to last st before m, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 16: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripe patt as established until short edge of front measures 17[17, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19] inches, matching the RIGHT FRONT, ending with a RS row.
Next Row (WS): Work the 7 border sts in moss stitch as established, BO 31[37, 43, 49, 55, 61, 67] sts to end.
Row 5:Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 6: P to m, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Row 7: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 -- 18 sts total, 7 sts form Border.
Row 8: P to m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Right Back Increasing Stripe Pattern Row 1:Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1
Row 2: P to m, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Row 3: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 4: P to m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, k1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 14:P1, k2, *k2tog; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Row 15: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, k1, *kfb, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 16: P to m, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl.
Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripes of stockinette and texture until there are 44[50, 56, 62, 68, 74, 80] sts. 37[43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73] stripe sts plus 7 border sts ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): BO 7 sts, remove marker, work to end of row in patt as established. 37[43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73] sts.
Continue to work the RIGHT BACK in the patterns below making sure to begin with the next row in the established stripe pattern.
Right Back Diagonal Stripe Pattern Row 1: K1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: As Row 1. Row 4: As Row 2. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: K1, ssk, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. Row 14:P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 15: K2, *kfb; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 16: Purl. Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripe patt as established until short edge of RIGHT BACK measures 17[17, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19] inches, matching the RIGHT FRONT, ending with a RS row.
BO all sts.
LEFT BACK
CO 10 sts. Row 1:K1, kfbf, k1, pm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 2:Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Row 3: K1, (kfb, k1) 2 times, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 4: Sl1, (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Row 5: K1, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 6: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Row 7:K1, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. – 18 sts total, 7 sts form Border. Row 8: Sl1 (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to end.
Left Back Increasing Stripe Pattern Row 1:K1, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 2: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Row 3: K1, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 4: Sl1 (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: K1, kfb, k to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 14: Sl1, (k1, p1) 3 times, sm, k2, *k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Row 15: K1, *kfb; rep from * to 2 sts before m, k2, sm, (p1, k1) 3 times, k1tbl. Row 16: Sl1 (p1, k1) 3 times, sm, p to end. Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripes of stockinette and texture until there are 44[50, 56, 62, 68, 74, 80] sts -- 37[43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73] stripe sts plus 7 border sts -- in between the markers ending with a RS row. On the next WS row BO 7 sts, remove marker, and then work to end of row in patt as established. 37[43, 49, 55, 61, 67, 73] sts.
Continue to work the LEFT BACK in the patterns below making sure to begin with the next row in the established stripe pattern.
Left Back Diagonal Stripe Pattern Row 1: K1, kfb, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: As Row 1. Row 4: As Row 2. Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more.
Row 13: K1, kfb, k to last 2 sts, k2tog, k1. Row 14: P1, k1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 15: K1, *kfb; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 16: Purl. Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 13-16 twice more.
Continue to work in stripe patt as established until short edge of LEFT BACK measures 17[17, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5, 19] inches, matching the LEFT FRONT, ending with a RS row.
Continue to work these 4 rows until 46[48, 48, 52, 54, 58, 60] rows have been worked, ending with a WS row.
Next Row (RS): BO 7 sts – 1 st remains on needles and then pick up and knit 33[35, 35, 39, 41, 43, 47] sts along the garter stitch edge – 34[36, 36, 40, 42, 44, 48] sts. The pick up rate is about 3 sts for every 4 rows.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Starting with Row 13[7, 21, 13, 7, 1, 17] of the Sleeve Stripe Pattern, work until 96[96, 100, 102, 102, 102, 104] rows have been worked. AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 st at each end of the sleeve every 6th row 0[0, 0, 0, 4, 5, 5] times, and then every 8th row 10[12, 12, 12, 9, 9, 9] times -- 54[60, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76] sts. Make sure to leave a selvedge stitch in stockinette as established for seaming. Place a safety pin to mark the end of the sleeve inseam.
Sleeve Stripe Pattern Row 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: Knit. Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: Purl. Row 14, 18, 22: P1, k1, *k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1, p1. Row 15, 19, 23: K2, *kfb; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 16, 20, 24: Purl. Row 17, 21: Knit.
Continue working even in Sleeve Stripe Pattern until 108[114, 124, 132, 138, 144, 152] rows have been worked.[**]
Right Sleeve Short Row Shaping Row 1: Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: Knit. Row 4: P40[48, 48, 48, 52, 56, 60], p2tog, p1. Row 5: Sl1, k to end. Row 6: P30[36, 36, 36, 39, 42, 45], p2tog, p1. Row 7: Sl1, k to end. Row 8: P20[24, 24, 24, 26, 28, 30], p2tog, p1. Row 9: Sl1, k to end. Row 10: P10[12, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15], p2tog, p to end - 50[56, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] sts. Row 11: Knit. Row 12: Purl.
Textured Patt Decrease Rows Row 1: Knit. Row 2: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 3: K3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, k3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5]. Row 4: Purl. Row 5: Knit. Row 6: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 7: K3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, k3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5]. Row 8: Purl. Row 9: Knit. Row 10: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 11: K4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] - 36 (38, 38, 42, 42, 44, 48) sts. Row 12: Purl.
Knit 1 row.
Break yarn and place sts securely on waste yarn for blocking.
LEFT SLEEVE Work as for RIGHT SLEEVE up to[**].
Left Sleeve Short Row Shaping Row 1: Knit. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K40[48, 48, 48, 52, 56, 60], ssk, k1. Row 4: Sl1, p to end. Row 5: K30[36, 36, 36, 39, 42, 45], ssk, k1. Row 6: Sl1, p to end. Row 7: K20[24, 24, 24, 26, 28, 30], ssk, k1. Row 8: Sl1, p to end. Row 9: K10[12, 12, 12, 13, 14, 15], ssk, k to end - 50[56, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72] sts. Row 10: Purl Row 11: Knit. Row 12: Purl.
Textured Patt Decrease Rows Row 1: Knit. Row 2: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 3: K3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] sts, k3[4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5]. Row 4: Purl. Row 5: Knit. Row 6: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 7: K3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, k3[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5]. Row 8: Purl. Row 9: Knit. Row 10: P1, *k2tog; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 11: K4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5], *kfb; rep from * to last 4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts, k4[4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5] - 36 (38, 38, 42, 42, 44, 48) sts. Row 12: Purl.
Knit 1 row.
Break yarn and place sts securely on waste yarn for blocking.
FINISHING
Block all pieces to measurements, being careful with live sts.
Seam sleeves using pins as stopping points. Sew up side seams. Sew up back center seam (the back will come to a point at the neck -- this is correct!)
Set sleeves into the diagonal line of body piece, seaming at a rate of one stitch of diagonal body to one row of sleeve (one sleeve row equals only one horizontal bar).
Collar
Place live border sts on the circular needle for the collar. Work across sts in moss stitch as follows:
Row 1: Sl1, work border as established, continue in this patt to the back center, pick up and work 1 st in patt at the back center, continue in patt to last st, end k1tbl . 85[99, 99, 107, 109, 111, 119] sts.
Continue to work in moss st for 3 more rows, starting every row with a Sl1, and ending every row with a k1tbl.
Buttonhole Row 1 (RS): Sl1, work 2 sts in pattern, BO 3 sts, continue in patt to last st, k1tbl. Buttonhole Row 2 (WS): Sl1, work in patt to last 6 sts, CO 3 sts, work in patt to last st, k1tbl.
Work 2 rows in patt as established.
BO all sts loosely. Use a steam iron to block out the collar. Sew on button and weave in all ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Corrina Ferguson didn't start knitting until she moved to Florida, but fortunately she's become one of those crazy Florida people who think 60 degrees is cold!
Corrina is a knitwear designer, teacher, and author of Warm Days, Cool Knits (Interweave, 2015). You'll also find her on Ravelry.
