INTRODUCTION

Juno

by Natasja Hornby

The Aran, the Breton, the Gansey, the Lopapeysa - they are called classics for a reason. These are the sweater styles so timeless there is an incarnation of any of them out there for almost everyone.

Thinking about the classics and the designs they inspire, the idea for Juno, the high-spirited lovechild of a Breton and a traditional round yoke sweater, popped in my head. Juno is a classic with a twist.

Juno is knit seamlessly from the bottom up to the underarms. The decreases and increases for waist shaping are not worked at the sides of the body. Instead, they are placed more towards mid front and mid back, drawing the eye inward to emphasize the waist. For an even better fit, the pattern includes instructions for optional horizontal bust darts. Juno is designed to have negative to no ease around the bust and high hip and about 2 inches of positive ease around the midsection.

The sleeves are worked in the round separately and then joined with the body. The yoke is worked in one piece up to the neckband, combining raglan and balanced decreases. After the stranded color work, short rows are worked to raise the back of the neck.

The colorwork was designed while traveling in Turkey. It’s inspired by the pretty nazar boncuğu beads, an amulet believed to defy evil forces. For those of you who are not into knitted talismans (or the colors I chose), I’ve included a “color by symbols” chart. Take out those crayons, and have yourself a coloring fest!

model: Natasja Hornby

photos: Raymond Bruijnesteijn

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 3 0.5[35, 39.25, 43.75, 45.75, 50.25, 54.5] inches/ 77.5[89, 99.5, 111, 116, 127.5, 138.5] cm
Length: 22[22.5, 23, 24.5, 25, 25.5, 26] inches/ 56[57, 58.5, 62, 63.5, 65, 66] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Holst Garn Noble [95% geelong wool, 5% cashmere; 364 yards/333m per 50 g skein]
[MC1] Whisper; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6] skeins
[MC2] Cygnet; 3[3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins
[CC1] Quarry; 1[1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] skeins
[CC2] Blue Stone, 1 skein
[CC3] Flint; 1 skein
[CC4] Charcoal; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 24-inch US #4/3.5mm circular needle
1 24-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
1 32-inch US #5/3.75mm circular needle
1 set preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round US #4/3.5mm
1 set preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round US #5/3.75mm

Notions
stitch markers
waste yarn or stitch holders
yarn needle

GAUGE

22 sts/32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

If you would like to substitute the yarn, look for a sport weight; wool or wool blends are ideal. Great choices include (but are not limited to) Cascade 220 Sport, Berroco Ultra alpaca light, Tove by Sandnes Garn, Chickadee by Quince & Co and Nature spun sport by Brown Sheep.

Note: If you choose to use a sport weight yarn, yarn is held singly.

Stranded knitting has a tendency to have a tighter gauge, so for the color work you may need to adjust your needle size to obtain the correct gauge. Make sure to check your gauge over both plain stockinette stitch and the stranded color work pattern.

BOR: beginning of round

Stripes
Color changes for stripes are worked every 4 rounds throughout body, sleeves and upper yoke. To avoid the ‘jog’ when knitting stripes in the round I recommend this clear tutorial on jogless stripes (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEff10/FEATff10TT.php)

Horizontal bust darts
The bust darts are optional, and instructions are given for a sweater with or without darts. This article (http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEdf11/FEATgreatfit.php) is really helpful to determine if the fit of your sweater will benefit from adding darts. For sizes XS, S and M adding the darts will lengthen the front of the sweater by 1 inch/2.5 cm, and for sizes L, 1X, 2X and 3X by 2 inches/5 cm.

1x1 rib
Rnd 1: *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 1 for pattern.

Stripes
Rnds 1-4: Knit with MC2.
Rnds 5-8: Knit with MC1.

Repeat these 8 rnds for the stripe pattern throughout the body, upper sleeves and yoke.

CHARTS

Note: the charts on the left show the colors that match the sample. To change the colors, use the chart on the right.

DIRECTIONS

Body
With smaller needle and CC1 held doubled, CO 168[192, 216, 240, 252, 276, 300] sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm to mark BOR and left side seam.

Knit 2 rounds, break CC1.

Attach MC1, knit 1 round, purl 1 round. With MC1, work in 1x1 rib until ribbing measures 1.5 inches/4 cm.

Change to larger needle and knit 2 rounds. Begin working in stripe pattern, starting with MC2.

Waist shaping
Work Rnds 1-4 of stripe pattern. On Rnd 5 of the body (first rnd with MC1), set up waist shaping as follows.

Set up rnd: K 18[22, 23, 26, 25, 30, 32] , pm, k 48[52, 62, 68, 74, 78, 86] , pm, k 36[42, 46, 52, 54, 60, 64] , pm, k 48[52, 62, 68, 74, 78, 86] , pm, knit to BOR, sl BOR.

Dec rnd: *Knit to m, sl m, ssk, knit to 2 st before m, k2tog, sl m; repeat from * once more, knit to BOR, sl BOR. 4 sts decreased.
Knit 7[6, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4] rnds.

Rep these 8[7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5] rnds 4[5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8] more times. 20[24, 24, 32, 32, 36, 36] sts decreased, 148[168, 192, 208, 220, 240, 264] sts remain.

Work even until piece measures 7[7.25, 7.5, 8, 8, 8.5, 8.75] inches/ 18[18.5, 19, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22] from the CO edge.

Waist increases:
Inc rnd: *Knit to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m; repeat from * once more, knit to BOR, sl BOR.

Knit 7[6, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4] rnds.

Rep these 8[7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5] rnds 4[5, 5, 7, 7, 8, 8] more times. 20[24, 24, 28, 28, 36, 36] sts increased, 168[192, 216, 240, 252, 276, 300] sts total.

For a sweater with horizontal bust darts: work even until piece measures approximately 13.25[14, 14, 14.5, 15, 15, 16] inches/ 33.5[35.5, 35.5, 37, 38, 38, 40.5] cm from CO edge, ending with Rnd 3 or Rnd 7 of the stripe pattern. Then follow instructions under Horizontal bust darts below.

For a sweater without horizontal bust darts: work even until piece measures 15.5[16.5, 16.5, 17, 17.25, 17.25, 18.5] inches/ 39.5[42, 42, 43, 44, 44, 47] cm from the CO edge, ending with Rnd 2 or Rnd 6 of the stripe pattern.

Next rnd: K 84[96, 108, 120, 126, 138, 150] sts, removing waist shaping m as you come to them, pm (side marker), knit to BOR removing waist shaping m. Break yarn and sl all sts purlwise to the side m. Set body aside. Skip instructions for horizontal bust darts and follow instructions for Sleeves below.

Horizontal bust darts
Work horizontal bust darts as follows:
Set up rnd: K 84[96, 108, 120, 126, 138, 150] sts, removing waist shaping m as you come to them, pm (side marker), knit to BOR removing waist shaping m, sl BOR. Switch colors.

Begin short row shaping:
Short row 1 (RS): Knit to 1 st before m, w&t.
Short row 2 (WS): Purl to 1 st before BOR, w&t.
Short row 3: Knit to 5[6, 7, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 4: Purl to 5[6, 7, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts before BOR, turn.

Break yarn, leaving a long tail to close the hole caused by the turn when finishing. Switch colors.

Short row 5 (RS): Knit to 9[11, 13, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 6 (WS): Purl to 9[11, 13, 7, 9, 9, 9] sts before BOR, w&t.
Short row 7: Knit to 13[16, 19, 10, 13, 13, 13] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 8: Purl to 13[16, 19, 10, 13, 13, 13] sts before BOR, turn.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X and 3X only
Break yarn, leaving a long tail to close the hole caused by the turn when finishing. Switch colors.

Short row 9 (RS): Knit to -[-. -, 13, 16, 17, 17, ] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 10 (WS): Purl to -[-. -, 13, 16, 17, 17, ] sts before BOR, w&t.
Short row 11: Knit to -[-. -, 16, 19, 21, 21, ] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 12: Purl to -[-. -, 16, 19, 21, 21, ] sts before BOR, turn.

Break yarn, leaving a long tail to close the hole caused by the turn when finishing. Switch colors.

Short row 13 (RS): Knit to -[-. -, 19, 22, 25, 25, ] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 14 (WS): Purl to -[-. -, 19, 22, 25, 25, ] sts before BOR, w&t.
Short row 15: Knit to -[-. -, 21, 25, 29, 29, ] sts before m, w&t.
Short row 16: Purl to -[-. -, 21, 25, 29, 29, ] sts before BOR, turn.

All sizes
Break yarn. Sl sts purlwise to side marker (new BOR), sl BOR.

Attach MC1 or MC2, depending on the color of the last stripe.

Continue to work in the round, picking up the wraps as you come to them. Work even until piece measures 15.5[16.5, 16.5, 17, 17.25, 17.25, 18.5] inches/ 39.5[42, 42, 43, 44, 44, 47] cm from CO edge, ending with Rnd 3 or Rnd 7 of the stripe pattern. Leave the yarn attached and set body aside.

Sleeves (make two)
Using smaller dpns, 2 circulars, or longer circular and CC1, CO 42[42, 42, 44, 46, 46, 50] sts. Pm to mark BOR, and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work in 1x1 rib until piece measures 1.25 inches/3 cm. Change to larger needles.

Knit 11[11, 11, 7, 7, 7, 5] rounds.

Inc rnd: K1, M1L, knit to 3 st before BOR, M1R, k1, sl BOR.

Rep these 12[12, 12, 8, 8, 8, 6] rounds 2[2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4] more times, 48[48, 48, 52, 54, 54, 60] sts.

Size L only:
Next round: knit one more inc round. 54 sts.

Knit 1 round.

All sizes:
Begin working colorwork from Chart 1.

At the end of Chart 1, on the next rnd, attach MC2. Resume working in stripe pattern.

Knit 1 round.

Resume increasing as follows:
Inc rnd: K1, M1L, knit to 1 st before BOR, M1R, k1, sl BOR.

Knit 11[11, 8, 8, 6, 4, 4] rounds.

Rep these 12[12, 9, 9, 7, 5, 5] rounds 6[7, 9, 9, 12, 17, 19] more times. 62[64, 68, 74, 80, 90, 100] sts

Size M, 2X and 3X only:
Work one more inc round. 62[64, 70, 74, 80, 92, 102] sts.

Size S and 1X only:
Next rnd: Knit 1, M1L, knit to end. 62[65, 70, 74, 81, 92, 102] sts.

Work in stripe pattern as established until piece measures 18.5[19, 19, 19.5, 20, 20, 20.5] inches/ 47[48.5, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 51, 52] cm from CO edge, or desired length to underarm, ending with Rnd 3 or Rnd 7 (same as last stripe of body).

Next rnd: Knit to 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts before BOR, sl next 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts to waste yarn, removing BOR. Set sleeve aside. Make second sleeve.

Yoke
Starting with the body, join the sleeves and body, knitting the last round of MC1 or MC2 for the stripe pattern as follows:

Next rnd: Knit to 4[4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] sts before first m, pm, *sl next 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12] sts of body on to waste yarn, removing m, k 54[57, 60, 64, 71, 80, 90] sleeve sts, pm, k 76[88, 98, 110, 116, 126, 138] body sts, pm; repeat from * once more. 260[290, 316, 348, 374, 412, 456] sts.

On the next round, sl BOR, and attach MC1 or MC2 depending on color of last stripe. Continue working in stripe pattern as established throughout the yoke.

Raglan shaping:
Dec rnd: *K1, ssk, knit to 3 st before m, k2tog, k1, sl m; repeat from 3 more times. 8 sts decreased, 252[282, 308, 352, 384, 410, 448] sts.

Knit 1 round, sl BOR.

Rep these 2 rounds 3[3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8] more times. 32[32, 40, 48, 56, 64, 72] sts decreased, 228[258, 276, 300, 318, 348, 384] sts.

Begin colorwork yoke:
Begin working Chart 2. Work through all 24 rows of Chart 2.

Dec rnd 1: with MC1, K3, k2tog, *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1. 190[215, 230, 250, 265, 290, 320] sts.

Knit 1 round, sl BOR, attach MC2. Resume working stripe pattern, starting with MC2.

Knit 2[2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6] rounds.

Dec rnd 2: *K2tog, k3; repeat from * to end. 152[172, 184, 200, 212, 232, 256] sts.

Knit 3[5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7] rounds.

Dec rnd 3: *K 5[3, 2, 3, 3, 3, 2] , k2tog; repeat from * last 5[2, 0, 0, 2, 2, 0] sts, knit to end. 131[138, 138, 160, 170, 186, 192] sts.

Knit 3 rounds.

Sizes L — 3X only:
Dec rnd 4:
Size L:*K6, k2tog; repeat from * 20 times. 140 sts.
Size 1X: *K4, k2tog; repeat from *28 times, k2. 140 sts.
Size 2X: *K3, k2tog; repeat from * 37 times, k1. 149 sts.
Size 3X: *K3, k2tog; repeat from * 38 times, k2. 154 sts.

Knit 3 rounds.

All sizes:
Neckline shaping
K 73[77, 77, 76, 78, 79, 81] sts, BO 25[26, 26, 28, 30, 31, 32] sts. Break yarn. 106[112, 112, 112, 112, 118, 122] sts remain.

Sl sts purlwise to end. Attach MC1 or MC2, depending on stripe pattern. Work stripe pattern until ribbing.

Row 1 [WS]: BO 3 sts purlwise, purl to end.
Row 2 [RS]: BO 3 st knitwise, knit to end.
Row 3: BO 3[3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] sts purlwise, purl to end.
Row 4: BO 3[3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2] sts knitwise, knit to end.
Row 5: BO 2 sts purlwise, purl to end.
Row 6: BO 2 sts knitwise, knit to end.
90[96, 98, 98, 98, 104, 108] sts remain.

Sizes 2X and 3X only:
Row 7 [WS]: Turn, BO 2 sts purlwise, purl to end.
Row 8 [RS]: Turn, BO 2 st knitwise, knit to end.
Row 9 [WS]: Turn, p1, p2tog, purl to end.
Row 10 [RS]: Turn, k1, k2tog, knit to end.
90[96, 98, 98, 98, 98, 102] sts remain.

Decreases
Size XS: *Knit 13, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 6 sts decreased.
Size S: *Knit 10, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 8 sts decreased.
Size M:*Knit 14, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. 6 sts decreased.
Size L: *Knit 22, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. 4 sts decreased.
Size 1X: *Knit 22, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. 4 sts decreased.
Size 2X: *Knit 22, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 4 sts decreased.
Size XS:*Knit 15, k2tog; repeat from * to end. 6 sts decreased.
84[88, 92, 94, 94, 94, 96] sts remain. BO all sts knitwise.

Neckband
With smaller circular needle or dpns, and starting in the middle of the back, pick up and knit 124[132, 134, 134, 134, 136, 138] sts, pm (BOR).

Work in 1x1 rib until neckband measures 0.5 inches/1.5 cm. BO all sts in pattern.

FINISHING

Graft the held underarm sts together. Weave in all ends, if necessary closing the holes left by turning for the horizontal bust darts. Block the sweater to measurements.

SCHEMATIC MEASURESMENTS
A — wrist circumference: 7.75[7.75, 7.75, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9] inches/ 19.5[19.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23] cm
B — upper arm circumference: 11.25[11.75, 12.75, 13.5, 14.75, 16.75, 18.5] inches/ 28.5[30, 32.5, 34.5, 37.5, 42.5, 47] cm
C — sleeve length: 18.5[19, 19, 19.5, 20, 20, 20.5] inches/ 47[48.5, 48.5, 49.5, 51, 51, 52] cm
D — body length to underarm: 15.5[16.5, 16.5, 17, 17.25, 17.25, 18.5] inches/ 39.5[42, 42, 43, 44, 44, 47] cm
E — bust circumference: 30.5[35, 39.25, 43.75, 45.75, 50.25, 54.5] inches/ 77.5[89, 99.5, 111, 116, 127.5, 138.5] cm
F — waist circumference: 27[30.5, 35, 37.75, 40, 43.75, 48] inches/ 68.5[77.5, 89, 96, 101.5, 111, 122] cm
G — hip circumference: 30.5[35, 39.25, 43.75, 45.75, 50.25, 54.5] inches/ 77.5[89, 99.5, 111, 116, 127.5, 138.5] cm
H – neck circumference: 15.5[16.5, 16.5, 16.75, 16.75, 17, 17.25] inches/ 39.5[42, 42, 42.5, 42.5, 43, 44] cm
I – body length: 22.5[23.75, 24.25, 25.5, 26.25, 27, 28.5] inches/ 57[60.5, 61.5, 65, 66.5, 68.5, 72.5] cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Once upon a time, Natasja was formally design-trained and taught textiles and art. Now a forensic youth psychologist working in a field totally unrelated to all things warm, soft and fuzzy, she’s trying to make beautiful things again.

She has too many ideas involving yarn, but having to knit to realize them forces her to stay grounded.

Pattern & images © 2016 Natasja Hornby. Contact Natasja