She’s electric
She’s in a family full of eccentrics
She’s done things I never expected
And I need more time.
-Oasis
Get some intense color in the form of a flattering, simple,
easy-to-fit, grown-up cardigan. This
piece was designed to show off the vibrant,
high-contrast variegated colors of Lorna’s
Laces. In fact, Lorna’s Laces chose the colors for it after
I told them they could “go nuts.”
Making a large garment out of an intensely variegated colorway
like the juicy citrus Tomfoolery is daunting,
I admit it. The yarn itself is filled
with movement and play due to the fact
that it has extreme warm/cool and light/dark
contrasts. However, when paired with
a solid, in this case, Berry, a skein
or two of really intense yarn can be
the focal point of a simply shaped sweater.
This cardigan is worked in one piece from the top down. The
slimming waistband is worked in a slipped-stitch pattern that
only requires using one color per row, and pulls in the stitches
to create shaping.
Whether
you choose solid or variegated yarns, high or low contrast, electric
or subtle colors, this easy, quick project is perfect to layer
or wear on its own all year long.
model: Ann
Weaver photos: Beth
Weaver
SIZE
Woman’s XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size XS)
Note: Choose a size with 0-3 inches positive ease. Note that the combined
fronts will be slightly wider than the back, to provide more ease over
the bust.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
1
set US #8/5mm double-point needles
1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
1 US #9/5.5mm circular needle, 32 inches or longer
Notions
Stitch
markers
Waste
yarn
Cable
needle (optional; see Pattern Notes)
Safety
pins or split ring markers
Yarn
needle
Sewing
needle and thread
8
buttons, approx. 0.75 inch diameter Note: Buy buttons after sweater is complete to ensure correct size.
GAUGE
18 sts/24 rows = 4" in
stockinette stitch using smaller needle
22 sts/36 rows = 4" in pattern stitch using larger needle
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
m1L (left-leaning increase): Insert
left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of
yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch
on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch
increased.
m1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back
to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last
stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit
this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.
T2RP: K into front of second st on left needle, p into first
st on left needle, drop both sts from left needle.
T2LP: P into back loop of second st on left needle, k into first
st on left needle, drop both sts from left needle.
Note: If you find it difficult to work the right and left twists
as described above (T2RP and T2LP), they can also be worked using
a cable needle as follows:
T2RP: On RS and WS Rows: Sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to
back of work; k1 from left needle, p1 from cable needle.
T2LP: On RS and WS Rows: Sl 1 st to cable needle and hold to
front of work; p1 from left needle, k1 from cable needle.
DIRECTIONS
YOKE Neckband:
Using smaller circular needle, CO 113[117,
125, 129, 145, 149] sts. Row 1 [RS]: K2, [p1, k1] to last 3 sts,
p1, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, [k1, p1] to last 3 sts,
k1, p2.
These 2 rows set 1x1 Rib for neckband.
Work 3 more rows in pattern as set.
Continuing in pattern as set, place markers as follows: Next Row [WS]: Work 21[22, 24, 25, 29,
30] sts, place marker, work 18 sts, place marker, work 35[37,
41, 43, 51, 53] sts, place marker, work 18 sts, place marker,
work remaining 21[22, 24, 25, 29, 30] sts.
Shape Yoke: Raglan Increase Row 1 [RS]: K2, p1, *k
to marker, m1R, slip marker, k1, m1L; repeat from * three times,
k to last 3 sts, p1, k2. 8 sts increased.
Next Row [WS]: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts,
k1, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows 10[11, 14, 16, 19,
20] times more. 201[213, 245, 265, 305, 317] sts: 32[34, 39,
42, 49, 51] sts for each front, 40[42, 48, 52, 58, 60] sts for
each sleeve, 57[61, 71, 77, 91, 95] sts for back.
Raglan Increase Row 2 [RS]: K2, p1, *k to marker, m1R, slip
marker, k to next marker, slip marker, k1, m1L; repeat from *
once, k to last 3 sts, p1, k2. 4 sts increased.
Work 1 WS row in pattern.
Work Raglan Increase Row 1. Work 1 WS
row in pattern.
Repeat these 4 rows 2[3, 2, 3, 2, 3]
times more. 237[261, 281, 313, 341, 365] sts:
38[42, 45, 50, 55, 59] sts for each front,
46[50, 54, 60, 64, 68] sts for each sleeve, 69[77, 83, 93, 103,
111] sts for back.
Work 4[0, 2, 0, 0, 0] rows in pattern.
LOWER BODY
Remove existing markers when working next row. Use
backward loop method for casting on underarm sts.
Dividing Row [RS]: K2, p1, *k to marker, place next 46[50, 54,
60, 64, 68] sts (all sts to next marker) on waste yarn for sleeve,
CO 4 sts; repeat from * once, k to last 3 sts, p1, k2. 153[169,
181, 201, 221, 237] sts.
Work in pattern until work measures 4.25[4.25, 4.75, 5, 5.25,
5.5] inches from underarm or to approx. 2 inches above waist,
ending with a RS row. Note: This is a good time to transfer
sts to waste yarn and try on sweater to check length.
WAISTBAND
Wind a small ball of MC. When working waistband, some
rows will be worked using MC, and some rows using CC. When working
CC rows, the first and last 3 sts will be worked using MC; work
one set of 3 sts using main working ball of MC, and other set
of 3 sts using the small ball of MC.
When switching from one color to the next, drop the color you
have been knitting with, and bring the yarn for the next color
up under the yarn of the previous color before you continue knitting.
This will twist the 2 yarns around each other.
Always slip stitches purlwise, with yarn held to WS of work
(held to back of work on RS rows and front of work on WS rows).
Set-up Row [RS]: Using larger circular needle and MC, k2, p1;
using CC, [k2, sl 1] to marker, sl 3, [sl 1, k2] to last 3 sts;
using MC, p1, k2.
Row 1 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1; using CC, [p2, sl 1] to marker,
sl 3, [sl 1, p2] to last 3 sts; using MC, k1, p2.
Row 2 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1, [sl 1,
T2RP] to marker, k3, [T2LP, sl 1] to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 3 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1, [sl 1,
p2] to marker, p3, [p2, sl 1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 4 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1; using CC,
k1, sl 1, [T2RP, sl 1] to 1 st before marker, k1, sl 3, k1, [sl
1, T2LP] to last 5 sts, sl 1, k1; using MC, p1, k2.
Row 5 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1; using CC, p1, sl 1, [p2,
sl 1] to 1 st before marker, p1, sl 3, p1, [sl 1, p2] to
last 5 sts, sl 1, p1; using MC, k1, p2.
Row 6 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1, [T2RP,
sl 1] to marker, k3, [sl 1, T2LP] to last 3 sts, p1, k2.
Row 7 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1, [p2, sl
1] to marker, p3, [sl 1, p2] to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Row 8 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1; using CC,
[sl 1, T2RP] to marker, sl 3, [T2LP, sl 1] to last 3 sts; using
MC, p1, k2.
Row 9 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1; using CC,
[sl 1, p2] to marker, sl 3, [p2, sl 1] to last 3 sts; using MC,
k1, p2.
Row 10 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1, k1, sl
1, [T2RP, sl 1] to 1 st before marker, k5, [sl 1, T2LP] to last
5 sts, sl 1, k1, p1, k2.
Row 11 [WS]: Using MC, p2, k1, p1, sl 1, [p2, sl 1] to 1
st before marker, p5, [sl 1, p2] to last 5 sts, sl 1, p1, k1,
p2.
Row 12 [RS]: Using MC, k2, p1; using
CC, [T2RP, sl 1] to marker, sl 3, [sl 1, T2LP] to last 3 sts;
using MC, p1, k2.
Work Rows 1-12 twice more, then work
Rows 1-5 once more. Waistband measures approx. 4.5 inches. Break
CC and small ball of MC.
Change to smaller needles and remove markers when working next row. Next Row [RS]: K2, p1, k13[11, 13, 17,
26, 18], k2tog, [k23[19, 20, 31, 52,
37], k2tog] 5[7, 7, 5, 3, 5] times, k13[11,
14, 17, 26, 19], p1, k2. 153[169, 181,
201, 221, 237] sts.
Continue in stockinette st, working first and last 3 sts in
pattern as set, until work measures 11[11, 12.25, 12.75, 13.75,
14.25] inches from underarm or 1 inch less than desired length
to lower edge, ending with a WS row.
Work 6 rows in 1x1 Rib as for neckband.
BO all sts knitwise.
SLEEVES
Place 46[50, 54, 60, 64, 68] held sts of one sleeve on
double-point needles. Using MC, pick up and k 4 sts in CO sts
at underarm, placing marker after second st to indicate beginning
of round; k all held sts, then k first 2 picked-up sts to reach
end of round. 50[54, 58, 64, 68, 72] sts.
K 8[6, 5, 3, 3, 3] rounds. Decrease Round: K2tog, k to last 2 sts,
SSK.
Repeat these 9[7, 6, 4, 4, 4] rounds
3[5, 6, 9, 10, 11] times more. 42[42, 44, 44, 46, 48] sts.
Continue in stockinette st until sleeve measures 6.5[7, 7, 7.5,
7.5, 8] inches from underarm or 1 inch less than desired length.
Next Round: [K1, p1] to end.
Work 5 more rounds in 1x1 Rib as set.
BO all sts knitwise.
FINISHING Button Band:
Using smaller circular needle and MC, beginning at upper left front corner,
pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge, ending at lower
left front corner.
K 1 row. Break MC.
Using CC, k 3 rows, ending with a RS row. BO all sts knitwise.
Buttonhole Band:
Use safety pins or split ring markers to
mark desired positions of eight buttonholes, evenly spaced
along right front edge.
Using smaller circular needle and MC, beginning at lower right
front corner, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along right
front edge, ending at upper right front corner.
K 1 row. Break MC.
Buttonhole Row [RS]: Using CC, [k to buttonhole
position, yo, k2tog] eight times, k to end.
K 2 rows. BO all sts knitwise.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Try on cardigan before placing buttons to determine how much
ease to allow. Sew buttons to left front edge, opposite buttonholes.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Ann Weaver has been designing handknits since 2007 while working
a growing string of seemingly unrelated jobs.
This fall she put
out her first self-published collection
of patterns, titled Craft
Work Knit. You can read more about Ann
on her
website and on her
blog.