From cuddly-warm to daring-hot in just an instant: Button it
up and you will have a cowly collar keeping the cold wind away
under your coat. Leave it open to show some shoulder when you
arrive at the bar.
This sweater came to my mind after watching
too much of “Mad Men” while knitting and admiring
secretary Joan Harris (Holloway) in her elegant yet sexy outfits.
This sweater is knit top-down (so you can try it on in the process
to ensure a perfect fit), completely seamless and features reversible
cables that look good both buttoned up and folded over.
model: Martina
Behm, Julia Waberseck, Dagmar Behm photos: Martina
Behm
MATERIALS
Yarn BC
Garn Lucca [100% merino wool; 328yd/300m
per 100g skein]; color: #ub09; 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] skeins Note: this yarn has been discontinued. BC
Garn Semilla is a similar yarn that's currently
available and can be used as an alternative.
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
set US #8/5mm double-point needles (used for sleeves – larger
sizes may prefer a 16-inch circular needle) 1 US #8/5mm circular needle, 24 inches for sizes XS-M, 32 inches for sizes
L-3X
Notions Stitch markers Cable needle Waste yarn Yarn needle Row counter (optional but recommended) 9[9,
9, 13, 13, 13, 13] buttons, approx. diameter
0.75 inch Note: Buy buttons after sweater
is complete to ensure correct size.
GAUGE
20 sts/28 rows = 4” in
stockinette st
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
The collar and yoke of this sweater
are quite deep, providing a loose, slouchy fit.
C16B: Slip next 8 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work;
[k2, p2, k2, p2] from left neede, [k2, p2, k2 p2] from cable
needle.
LLPI (Left Lifted Purl Increase): Use the left needle to pick
up the stitch 2 rows below the last stitch on the right needle.
Purl into this stitch. 1 stitch has been increased.
2x2 Rib (Worked back and forth in rows OR in the round over
a multiple of 4 sts):
All Rows or Rounds: [K2, p2] to end.
Buttonhole: Work One-row Buttonhole as described here,
binding off a total of 2 sts.
Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast
On can be found here.
JSSBO (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off)
directions can be found here.
DIRECTIONS
COLLAR
Using circular needle, CO 200[216, 232, 248, 264, 280, 296] stitches.
Rows 1-4: Work in 2x2 Rib.
Row 5 (Buttonhole Row) [WS]: K2, p1,
work buttonhole (see Pattern Notes), continue in pattern as
set to end.
Rows 6-7: Work in 2x2 Rib.
Note: Even though the fabric is reversible
in appearance, RS and WS are indicated to help keep track of
cable pattern, buttonhole sequence, etc. You may find it useful
to mark RS of work.
Sizes XS, M, 1X, 3X Only: Row 8 [RS]: [C16B, work 16 sts in pattern]
6[-, 7, -, 8, -, 9] times, work last 8 sts in pattern.
Sizes S, L, 2X Only: Row 8 [RS]: [C16B, work 16 sts in pattern]
-[6, -, 7, -, 8, -] times, C16B, work last 8 sts in pattern.
All Sizes: Rows 9-15: Work as for Rows 1-7.
Row 16 [RS]: [Work 16 sts in pattern,
C16B] 6[6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9] times, work last 8[24, 8, 24, 8, 24,
8] sts in pattern.
Sizes XS, S, M Only: Rows 17-31: Work as for Rows 1-15.
Row 32 [RS]: Work 16 sts in pattern,
[C16B, work 48 sts in pattern] 2[2, 3, -, -, -, -] times, C16B,
work last 40[56, 8, -, -, -, -] sts in pattern.
Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7. Row 40 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to
end.
Proceed to Yoke.
Sizes L, 2X, 3X Only: Rows 17-32: Work as for Rows 1-16. Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7. Row 40 [RS]: [C16B, work 48 sts in pattern]
-[-, -, 3, -, 4, 4] times, C16B, work last -[-, -, 40, -, 8,
24] sts in pattern.
Size 1X Only: Rows 17-32: Work as for Rows 1-16. Rows 33-39: Work as for Rows 1-7. Row 40 [RS]: [C16B, work 48 sts in pattern]
4 times, work last 8 sts in pattern.
Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Rows 41-44: Work in pattern. Row 45 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row (as
for Row 5). Rows 46-52: Work in pattern. Row 53 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row. Rows 54-55: Work in pattern. Row 56 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to
end.
Proceed to Yoke.
YOKE Rows 1-4: Work in pattern. Row 5 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row (as for
collar). Rows 6-12: Work in pattern. Row 13 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row. Rows 14-15: Work in pattern. Row 16 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to
end. Rows 17-18: Work in pattern.
Size XS Only: Row 19 [WS]: K2, p2, LLPI, [k2, p2, LLPI,
k2, p2] 22 times, k2, p2, LLPI, work last 16 sts in pattern.
224 sts.
Row 20 [RS]: Work 16 sts in pattern,
k3, p2, [k2, p2, k3, p2] 22 times, k3, p2.
This row sets rib pattern for rest of
yoke.
Size S Only: Row 19 [WS]: Work 8 sts in pattern, [(k2,
p2, LLPI) three times, k2, p2] twelve times, work last 16 sts
in pattern. 252 sts.
Row 20 [RS]: Work 16 sts in pattern,
[k2, p2, (k3, p2) three times] to last 8 sts, work 8 sts in pattern.
This row sets rib pattern for rest of
yoke.
Sizes M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X Only: Row 19 [WS]: K2, p2, [k2, p2, LLPI] to
last 20 sts, work in pattern to end. -[-, 284, 304, 324, 344,
364] sts.
Row 20 [RS]: Work 20 sts in pattern,
[k3, p2] to last 4 sts, k2, p2.
This row sets rib pattern for rest of
yoke.
All Sizes: Row 21 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.
Rows 22-28: Work in pattern.
Row 29 [WS]: Work Buttonhole Row.
Rows 30-31: Work in pattern.
Row 32 [RS]: C16B, work in pattern to
end.
Sizes XS, S, M Only: Rows 33-35: Work in pattern.
Proceed to Joining Round.
Sizes L, 1X, 2X, 3X: Rows 33-36: Work in pattern. Rows 37-48: Work as for Rows 21-32. Rows 49-51: Work in pattern.
Proceed to Joining Round.
Joining Round (Worked with RS facing): Work next row in pattern
to last 8 sts, place marker; place last 8 sts on cable needle
and hold directly behind first 8 sts of row; [k next st on cable
needle together with next st on left needle] 8 times. 216[244,
276, 296, 316, 336, 356] sts. Marker indicates beginning of round. Note: As written, the cabled front edge
will lap in front of the buttonhole edge
at the bottom of the yoke (see photo
above).
The directions for the Increase Round below do not include the
8 sts worked at the end of the joining round, after the end-of-round
marker was placed.
Dividing Round: *K68[76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116], place next
44[48, 56, 60, 68, 72, 80] sts on waste yarn, CO 12[16, 16, 20,
20, 24, 24] sts onto right needle using backward loop method;
repeat from * once. 160[184, 200, 224, 240, 264, 280] sts.
Next Round: *K68[76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116], [k2, p2] 3[4, 4,
5, 5, 6, 6] times; repeat from * once.
This round sets pattern for lower body.
Continue in pattern until work measures 10[10.5, 11.5, 12, 13,
13, 13] inches from underarm, or 2.5 inches less than desired
length to lower edge.
Work 16 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts using JSSBO.
SLEEVES
Place 44[48, 56, 60, 68, 72, 80] held sts of one sleeve
on double-point needles. Using double-point needle and with RS
facing, pick up and k 12[16, 16, 20, 20, 24, 24] sts (1 st in each
CO st) along underarm edge, placing marker after first 6[8, 8,
10, 10, 12, 12] sts; k held sts, k to marker. 56[64, 72, 80, 88,
96, 104] sts.
Work in stockinette st until sleeve measures 7.5[8, 8.5, 9,
9, 9, 9] inches or 8 inches less than desired length. Try on
sweater to determine best sleeve length.
CUFF Rounds 1-9: Work in 2x2 Rib. Round 10: Work 20[24, 28, 32, 36, 40,
44] sts in pattern, C16B, work last 20[24, 28, 32, 36, 40,
44] sts in pattern. Rounds 11-17: Work in pattern. Round 18: Work 4[8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28]
sts in pattern, C16B, work 16 sts in pattern, C16B, work last
4[8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28] sts in pattern.
Repeat Rounds 2-18 twice more.
Work 4 rounds in 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts using JSSBO.
Complete other sleeve in the same way.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and block as desired. Sew buttons to edge of collar
opposite buttonholes.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Martina Behm is a freelance writer from
Hamburg, Germany who knits and occasionally
designs.
