I got inspired by those new versions of gussets. After looking
at many, many stitch patterns and some nights worth of creative
sleep, I woke with this design in my head.
From the toe emerges a cable, broadening to the whole instep.
Then the gusset divides it. Those cables give some interest,
but are also entirely doable by a not-so-experienced knitter.
The leg part contains small seed stitch ribs, which break that
sometimes boring stockinette stitch.
photos: Stefanie
Bold
SIZE
XS[S, M, L]
which equals shoe size US Women’s 6-7[7½-8½,
9-10, 10-11]/US Men’s 4½-5½ [6-7, 7½-8,
8½-9]/EU 36-37[38-39, 40-41, 42-43]
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot length 9.25[9.75,10.5, 11] inches.
See pattern notes for
information on resizing to fit.
MATERIALS
Yarn Lana
Grossa Meilenweit Soja [60% Merino,
20% Soy, 20% Nylon; 200 m/m per 50g
skein]; color: 15, 2 skeins
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique] 1
set US #0/2mm double-point needles OR 1 long US #0/2mm circular needle for magic loop method OR 2 US #0/2mm circular needles for two-circulars method
Notions yarn
needle scissors stitch
markers
GAUGE
34 sts/50 rounds = 4 inches
in stockinette stitch
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Wrap & Turn [W&T] – used when working
short rows
To wrap and turn on a RS row, knit to point specified in pattern,
bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch
to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of
work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin
purling back in the other direction.
To wrap and turn on a WS row, purl to point specified in pattern,
bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch
to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front
of work, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin
knitting back in the other direction.
Working Wraps Together with Wrapped Stitches:
When working rows which follow short rows,
work the "wraps" at
the turning points of the short rows,
together with the stitches they wrap, as follows:
When working a RS row: Knit to wrapped
stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use
tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on
right needle, insert left needle into both wrap and stitch, and
knit them together.
When working a WS row: Purl to wrapped
stitch. Slip next stitch from left needle to right needle, use
tip of left needle to pick up "wrap" and place it on
right needle, slip both wrap and stitch back to left needle, purl
together through back loops.
M1L: Left-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your
left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch
two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this
stitch.
M1R: Right-leaning
Lifted Increase. Insert your right
needle, from front to back, under the
right leg of the stitch below the first
stitch on the left needle. Transfer
this stitch to your left needle and
knit into the front of it.
Hints for adjusting rounds if you have a different round
gauge: If you have a heavier gauge (fewer rounds), you need
to reduce some rounds in the pattern to
get socks to the right length. There are
several ways to do this: You can omit
one or two repeats of the cabling (1 repeat
= 6 rounds) on the foot. Or you can
increase in every second round at the
gusset instead of every third. If you
need to add a few rounds, you can do some
plain knitted rounds after the toe and
before starting the pattern on the foot.
Charts The charts for this pattern are very
large. Each fits on a letter-sized page.
Click below and print each resulting
page.
Work until Round 17[17, 19, 19] of
chart 1 is complete.
60[60 64, 64] sts.
Foot Foot round: Starting with row 6[1, 6, 1] work chart
2a[2a, 2b, 2b] for the instep, knit to end of round.
Work until round 42[42, 49, 49] of
chart 2a or 2b are complete. 62[62, 66, 66]
sts.
Gusset Foot round: Work chart 3a[3a,
3b, 3b] for the instep, knit to end
of round.
Work until round 41[41,44, 44] of
chart 3a or 3b is complete.
Next round: Work chart in pattern as
established, stopping after stitch 15[15, 16, 16] of the sole.
Heel turn
Check the length of your sock: it should be 7.5[7.75,
8.25, 8.75] inches long.
If it is too short, work additional rounds continuing the cable
pattern. If it is too long, unfortunately you may want to undo
a few rounds and adjust the gusset. Add or reduce rounds only
in even numbers, remembering to stop partway through the final
round.
Starting at stitch 16[16, 17, 17] of the sole, where you left
off after the gusset, proceed as follows:
For sizes M & L: Row 1 [RS]: K15, wrap and turn. Row 2 [WS]: P30, wrap and turn.
For all sizes: Row 1 [RS]: K14[14,29,29], wrap and turn. Row 2 [WS]: P28, wrap and turn. Row 3 [RS]: K27, wrap and turn. Row 4 [WS]: P26, wrap and turn. Row 5 [RS]: K25, wrap and turn. Row 6 [WS]: P24, wrap and turn. Row 7 [RS]: K23, wrap and turn. Row 8 [WS]: P22, wrap and turn. Row 9 [RS]: K21, wrap and turn. Row 10 [WS]: P20, wrap and turn. Row 11 [RS]: K19, wrap and turn. Row 12 [WS]: P18, wrap and turn.
For sizes M & L: Row 13 [RS]: K9.
For sizes XS and S: Row 13 [RS]: K17, wrap and turn. Row 14 [WS]: P16, wrap and turn. Row 15 [RS]: K8.
Now work one round, using the last round given in chart 3a[3a,
3b, 3b] for the instep, and knitting
the sole stitches, knitting the wrapped stitches together with
their wraps. Stop at
center back, that is after stitch 15[15,
16, 16] of the sole.
Heel flap
Starting at stitch 16[16, 17, 17] of
the sole, follow chart 4a[4a, 4b, 4b]
while working on the 30[30, 32, 32] “sole” stitches
only. Row 1 is worked across the
remaining 15[15, 16,16] sts on the
sole. For ease of working, slip all heel stitches to a single
needle or holder.
The sole stitches become the back part
of the leg.
To avoid holes, the last gusset stitch gets decreased working
in rounds again. This is included in the leg chart.
Stop where the chart ends. This is new beginning of round.
You now have 61[61, 65, 65] stitches.
Leg Leg round: Work chart 5a[5a, 5b, 5b] around.
Note: Round 1 contains the last decrease
for the heel flap.
Work Rounds 1-4 of chart 5a or
b,
then repeat Rounds 3-4 twice more.
Work Rounds 5-8, then repeat rounds
7-8 18 times more.
62[62, 66, 66] stitches.
Work Rounds 9-12, then repeat Rounds
11-12 14 times more. 64[64, 68, 68] stitches.
Work Rounds 13-14, then repeat 9 times
more or until leg is desired length.
Bind
off loosely and work a second sock.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Stefanie got introduced to knitting by
her Mom at the age of about 8. Since then,
she's added lots of techniques and other
crafts to her repertoire, thanks to books
and the internet.
She blogs here [in
German], and you can find her on Ravelry.
M1L: Left-leaning Lifted Increase. Insert your
left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch
two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this
stitch.
