INTRODUCTION

Chalcedony

by Pam Sluter

Chalcedony is my favorite kind of cold-weather layering piece. Cozy and comfy for sitting around the house, but not so heavy that I can’t layer it under my winter coat when the temperatures stay below freezing.

Chalcedony is worked from the bottom up to the shoulders which are joined with a decorative 3 needle bind off. Stitches are picked up around the arm openings and worked to the wrist. Front bands are picked up and worked last.

The cuffs, bottom edge and bands are worked using twisted rib. The body of the sweater and sleeves use a textured pattern of knits and purls. Both patterns have 4 stitch/4 row/round repeats making it easy to keep track of where you are.

model: Pam Sluter

photos: Izzy Sluter

SIZE

Women's XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
Shown in size M with 9 inches/ 23 cm of positive ease around full bust


FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest/Bust: 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59] inches/ 89[99, 109, 119, 129.5, 140, 150] cm
Length: 22[22, 24, 24, 24, 26, 26] inches/ 56[56, 61, 61, 61, 66, 66] cm

MATERIALS

Yarn
Cascade Yarns Eco+ [100% natural Peruvian wool; 478yd/437m per 250g skein]; color: West Point Blue Heather; 2[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 32-inch or longer US#7/4.5mm circular needle
US #7/4.5mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars

Notions
yarn needle
4 locking stitch markers
waste yarn or long stitch holders

GAUGE

16 sts/20 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Thermal Stitch
20 sts/20 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in Baby Cable Rib
16 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/ 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch
Note: gauge is always taken after blocking.

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Baby Cable Rib – Worked flat over a multiple of 4 sts plus 2
Row 1 [RS]: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 3: *P2, RT; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 4: Rep row 2.

Baby Cable Rib – Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 sts
Rnds 1 & 2: *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
Rnd 3: *P2, rt; rep from * to end.
Rnd 4: Rep rnd 1.

Thermal Stitch – Worked flat over a multiple of 4 sts plus 2
Row 1 [RS]: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [WS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Purl

Thermal Stitch – Worked in the round over a multiple of 4 sts
Rnds 1 and 2: Knit
Rnds 3 and 4: *K2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

RT: K2tog, leaving stitches on left needle; insert right hand needle between 2 sts just worked and k first st again. Slip both stitches from left hand needle together.

DIRECTIONS

Body
Using the Long Tail method, CO 1 st, pm, CO 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] , pm, CO 62[70, 78, 86, 94, 102, 110] , pm, CO 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] , pm, CO 1. 124[140, 156, 172, 188, 204, 220] sts.
Do not join; piece is worked in rows.

Row 1 [RS]: K1, work Baby Cable Rib to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: K1, work Baby Cable Rib to last st, k1.
Work as set until you have completed 20 rows of the pattern, keeping first and last stitch in garter stitch for selvedge.

Next row [RS]: K1, work Thermal Stitch to last st, k1.
Following row [WS]: K1, work Thermal Stitch to last st, k1.
Work as set until you have completed 14[14, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16] full repeats of the 4-row pattern. Body measures approximately 15[15, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17] inches/ 38[38, 41, 41, 41, 43, 43] cm from cast on edge.

Divide Front and Back:
Row 1 [RS]: Keeping in pattern, work across 27[31, 35, 39, 41, 45, 49] sts, bind off 8[8, 8, 8, 12, 12, 12] sts, continue in pattern across 54[62, 70, 78, 82, 90, 98] back stitches, place remaining 35[39, 43, 47, 53, 57, 61] stitches on waste yarn to hold for left front. Place first set of stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder to hold for right front.

Upper Back
Work WS row in pattern across back sts.
Work even in pattern until back measures 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] inches/ 18[18, 20, 20, 20, 23, 23] cm, ending with a WS row.

Next row [RS]: Work in pattern across 16[20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 34] sts, bind off 22[22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30] sts, work to end. 16[20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 34] sts rem on each side for shoulder. Place them on holders or waste yarn.

Upper Left Front
Place 35[39, 43, 47, 53, 57, 61] held sts of upper left front on circular needle and join yarn with RS facing. BO 8[8, 8, 8, 12, 12, 12] sts, work in pattern to end. 27[31, 35, 39, 41, 45, 49] sts
Work in pattern until piece measures 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] inches/ 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 13, 113] cm from dividing row ending with a WS row.

V neck shaping:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: Work in pattern to last 2 sts, ssk. 1 st decreased.


Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Repeat these 2 rows 10[10, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14] times more. 16[20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 34] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] inches/ 18[18, 20, 20, 20, 23, 23] cm. from underarm, ending with a WS row.
With RS facing, join to held sts of back left shoulder using three-needle bind off.
Note: Three-needle bind off is usually worked with right sides held together; for this project it is worked with wrong sides held together, so that a decorative ridge is formed.

Upper Right Front
Place held sts of right front on needle and join yarn with WS facing (at armhole edge).

Work in pattern until piece measures 3[3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] inches/ 8[8, 10, 10, 10, 13, 13] cm from dividing row ending with a WS row.

V neck shaping:
Neckline Decrease Row [RS]: K2tog, work in pattern to end. 1 st decreased.

Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Repeat these 2 rows 10[10, 12, 13, 13, 14, 14] times more. 16[20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 34] sts.
Continue in pattern until work measures 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] inches/ 18[18, 20, 20, 20, 23, 23] cm. from underarm, ending with a WS row.
With RS facing, join to held sts of back right shoulder using three-needle bind off.
Note: Three-needle bind off is usually worked with right sides held together; for this project it is worked with wrong sides held together, so that a decorative ridge is formed.

Right Sleeve
With RS facing, using dpns or preferred method for working small circumferences in the round, beginning at center of underarm, join yarn and pick up and knit 56[56, 64, 64, 64, 72, 72] sts around armhole. Place marker to denote beginning of round.

Round 1: Work Thermal Stitch (in the round) around.

Work as set until you have completed 2 full repeats.
Decrease rnd: SSK, k to 2 sts before m, k2tog. 2 sts decreased.
Next 3 rounds: K1, work in pattern to last st, k1.
Note: As you decrease, you’ll be taking away stitches from the pattern. Keep the center stitches aligned.

Repeat the last 4 rounds 3[3, 9, 9, 9, 15, 15] more times. 48[48, 44, 44, 44, 40, 40] sts rem.
First five sizes only: Work a Decrease rnd followed by 5 even rounds 8[8, 4, 4, 4, -, -] times. 32[32, 36, 36, 36, -, -] sts rem.

Continue even in pattern until sleeve measures 16 inches/41 cm or 3 inches/8 cm shorter than desired length.
Knit 2 rnds.
Cuff round: Work Baby Cable Rib (in the round) around.
Work as set until you have completed 4 full repeats of the pattern.

Bind off in pattern.
Repeat for Left Sleeve.

Front Bands
With MC, RS facing and beginning at bottom right front, rejoin yarn and pick up and knit 60[60, 64, 64, 64, 68, 68] sts up the right front to the beginning of the v neck shaping, 10[10, 14, 14, 14, 18, 18] sts up the right neckline, 22[22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 30] sts along the back neck back, 10[10, 14, 14, 14, 18, 18] sts down the right neckline to the beginning of the v neck, and 60[60, 64, 64, 64, 68, 68] sts to the bottom left front. 162[162, 180, 182, 184, 200, 202] sts.

Next Row [WS]: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Work rows 1-4 of Baby Cable Rib (flat) 3 times. Bind off in pattern

FINISHING

Weave in ends, block to measurement To block sweater, place in tub of water with a small amount of wool wash. Drain, Gently squeeze out excess water. Do not wring. Put sweater in towel and continue to squeeze out excess water. Sweater should be damp but not soaking wet. Lay flat to dry, gently stretching into shape.

A: Body Circumference: 35[39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59] inches/ 89[99, 109, 119, 129.5, 140, 150] cm
B: Length to underarm: 15[15, 16, 16, 16, 17, 17] inches/ 38[38, 41, 41, 41, 43, 43] cm
C: Armhole length: 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9] inches/ 18[18, 20, 20, 20, 23, 23] cm
D: Upper body width: 13.5[15.5, 17.5, 19.5, 20.5, 22.5, 24.5] inches/ 34.5[39.5, 44.5, 49.5, 52, 57, 62] cm
E: Back neck width: 5.5[5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7, 7.5] inches/ 14[14, 15, 16.5, 18, 18, 19] cm
F: Upper arm circumference: 14[14, 16, 16, 16, 18, 18] inches/ 25.5[25.5, 40.5, 40.5, 45.5, 45.5, ] cm
G: Sleeve length: 19 inches/49 cm
H: Cuff circumference: 8[8, 9, 9, 9, 10, 10] inches/ 20.5[20.5, 23, 23, 23, 25.5, 25.5] cm
I: Front neck depth: 4 inches/10cm

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Pam Sluter is a knitting designer and teacher from Rhode Island. She is especially grateful for wool sweaters during the cold New England winter.

She can be found on Ravelry as pamslu.

Pattern & images © 2018 Pam Sluter.