Kiernan : Knitty.com - Winter 2018

Kiernan

Peeeps, a free knitting pattern from Knitty.com. Free knitting pattern for a DETAILS HERE.

INTRODUCTION

Kiernan

beauty shotby

Tangy

This is a reworking of a favorite sweater from the 1990s. It's a giant, boxy drop-shoulder mohair number that was actually a gauge disaster, but turned into a rather fun statement piece. It's short and ridiculously wide. I adore it and I do wear it, but it's not perfect, and every time I wear it I want to make some tweaks. The problem is not in the 50-inch body circumference, but that the sleeves that are too wide, and the cowl that is shorter than I'd like.

This version modernizes the design a bit, and makes the tweaks I've been wanting: it's still an oversized drop-shoulder worn cropped, but it's not so wide, and the sleeves are much slimmer. The cowl is significantly longer for fun and coziness. I've also added a few of my favorite details from current fashion: there's a high-low hem, curved with short rows, and the sides are open a little.

This is a layering piece, designed to be worn with a longer shirt underneath. The proportions are very deliberate: any longer and it would be a giant puffy unflattering box. I'm modelling it with about 10 inches of positive ease around my upper bust circumference; go bigger if you'd like, but either way I'd strongly advise against adding significant length.

The key to wearing a garment like this is balance – if some elements are oversized and exaggerated then err in the other direction for the other elements. To balance the oversize body and exaggerated cowl, I've kept the body cropped. The looser you wear it, the more important that shortness is.

The yarn is fantastic, an absurdly light and warm blend of wool and cashmere. Treat yourself! (It does shed a little, so keep a lint brush at hand.) Mohair would be a very good substitute.

The body pieces are worked separately and seamed, but the sleeves are picked up at the shoulder and worked in the round, so there's not too much sewing overall, and what's there is straightforward. Don't be tempted to work the body in the round: the lack of seams would cause the garment to sag and stretch. The seams are there for a reason!

spacer model: Kate Atherley

spacer photos: Amy Singer

Print Essentials Print Everything

SIZE

XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size M with 10 inches/25.5 cm of ease at high bust

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust circumference: 36.75[40.75, 44.5, 48.5, 52.25, 56.25, 60] inches / 93.5[103.5, 113, 123, 132.5, 143, 152.5] cm
Back Length: 18[19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24] inches/ 45.5[48.5, 51, 53.5, 56, 58.5, 61] cm, measured at side
Front Length: 16[17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] inches/ 40.5[43, 45.5, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 56] cm, measured at side
Armhole depth: 6.5[7, 8, 9, 9.75, 10.5, 11.25] inches/ 16.5[18, 20.5, 23, 25, 26.5, 28.5] cm
Sleeve length: 17[18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] inches/ 40.5[43, 45.5, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 56] cm
Cowl length: 15 inches/38 cm

Note: Choose a size with 8-10 inches/20-25 cm of positive ease at your high bust (measured just under your arms) rather than fullest part of bust.

MATERIALS

Yarn
spacer Jade Sapphire Peeeps [40% cashmere, 60% wool; 164yds/150m per 50 g ball]; color: P12; 5[5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9] balls

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below - every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #8/5mm needles for working flat
spacer US #8/5mm circular needle, 16 inch/40cm length
spacer US #8/5mm needles for small circumference in the round: DPNs, 1 long or 2 shorter circulars, as you prefer

Notions
spacer stitch markers, including 4 removable
spacer yarn needle

GAUGE

15.5 sts/22 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette stitch
Approx. 20 sts/24 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in k2, p2 ribbing, relaxed

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The short rows are worked using the German Short Row method. I prefer this one as it's tidiest. If you prefer another method, you can substitute it. A video here explains the various methods.

DS: With yarn in front, slip the stitch purlwise to the right needle; bring the yarn up and over top of the needle, and around into position for the next stitch. If you're on a WS row, the yarn will be brought to the front again; if you're on a RS row, the yarn will be left at the back. Pulling the yarn brings both legs of the slipped stitch up and onto the needle, to create what looks like a double stitch.

A note about the yarn: the ball band says that it's dry clean only. In my experience it's absolutely fine to wash with the gentlest of handwashes. Use a no-rinse wool wash in lukewarm water, and agitate and rub as little as possible – squeeze it and roll it in a towel to wring out, and lay flat to dry.

DIRECTIONS

Back
Using the Long Tail method, CO 78[86, 94, 102, 110, 118, 126] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: [P2, k2] to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2 [WS]: [K2, p2] to last 2 sts, k2.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures 2 inches/5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Next row [RS]: P2, k2, p2, k to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
Next row [WS]: K2, p2, k2, p to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.
These 2 rows set the Body pattern.

Work 6 more rows in pattern.

Short Rows to Curve Hem
Row 1 [RS]: Work in pattern as set to last 6 sts, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: DS, work in pattern as set to last 6 sts, turn.
Row 3: DS, work in pattern as set to 3 sts before previous double stitch, turn.
Row 4: DS, work in pattern as set to 3 sts before previous double stitch, turn.**
Repeat Rows 3-4 once more.

Next row [RS]: DS, work to end of row in pattern as set, working both legs of each doubled stitch together as one stitch.
Next row [WS]: Work to end of row in pattern as set, working both legs of each doubled stitch together as one stitch.

Next row [RS]: P2, k2, p2, k to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
Next row [WS]: K2, p2, k2, p to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.
Repeat last 2 rows until piece measures 11.5[12, 12, 12, 12.25, 12.5, 12.75] inches / 29[30.5, 30.5, 30.5, 31, 32, 32.5] cm along side edge of piece (rather than center), ending after a WS row.

Place removable markers at each end of last row worked.

Setup for Armhole
Next row [RS]: Using cable cast-on method, CO 1 st at start of row, p this st, and continue in pattern as set to end of row. 79[87, 95, 103, 111, 119, 127] sts.
Next row [WS]: Using cable cast-on method, CO 1 st at start of row, k this st, and continue in pattern as set to last st, k1. 80[88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128] sts.

Note: You have now added 1 st to each side; these sts will create a selvedge from which the sleeve sts are picked up. On RS rows, purl these stitches; on WS rows, knit them.

Continue even in pattern as set until piece measures 18[19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24] inches/ 45.5[48.5, 51, 53.5, 56, 58.5, 61] cm along side edge of piece (rather than center), ending after a WS row.

BO all stitches in pattern.

Front
Work as for Back to **.

Repeat Rows 3-4 four times more.

Next row [RS]: DS, work to end of row in pattern as set, working both legs of each doubled stitch together as one stitch.
Next row [WS]: Work to end of row in pattern as set, working both legs of each doubled stitch together as one stitch.

Next row [RS]: P2, k2, p2, k to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
Next row [WS]: K2, p2, k2, p to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Continue even in pattern as set until piece measures 9.5[10, 10, 10, 10.25, 10.5, 10.75] inches/ 24[25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 26, 26.5, 27.5] cm along side edge of piece (rather than center), ending after a WS row.

Place removable markers at each end of last row worked.

Setup for Armhole
Next row [RS]: Using cable method, CO 1 st at start of row, p this st, and continue in pattern as set to end of row. 79[87, 95, 103, 111, 119, 127] sts.
Next row [RS]: Using cable method, CO 1 st at start of row, k this st, and continue in pattern as set to last st, k1. 80[88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128] sts.

Note: You have now added 1 st to each side; these sts will create a selvedge from which the sleeve sts are picked up. On RS rows, purl these stitches; on WS rows, knit them.

Continue even in pattern as set until piece measures 13[14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19] inches/ 33[35.5, 38, 40.5, 43, 45.5, 48.5] cm along edge of piece (rather than center), ending with a WS row.

Shape neck:
Row 1 [RS]: K 35[39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 58] , BO 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts, k to end of row.

Continue only on the last 35[39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 58] sts worked for the Right Side of the Neck. Slip 35[39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 58] sts for Left Neck to holder if desired.

Right Front Neck
Row 2 [WS]: Work even in pattern as set.

Continue in pattern, BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts at beginning of next 2 RS rows, then -[-, -, -, 2, 2, 2] sts at beginning of next -[-, -, -, 1, 1, 2] RS row(s). 31[35, 39, 42, 44, 46, 48] sts.

Work 1 WS row in pattern.

Decrease row [RS]: K1, ssk, work in patt as set to end. 1 st decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in pattern as set.

Repeat last 2 rows 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 2] times more, ending after a WS row. 26[30, 34, 37, 39, 42, 45] sts remain for shoulder.

BO all sts in pattern.

Left Front Neck
Rejoin yarn to 35[39, 43, 46, 50, 54, 58] held sts of Left Front Neck with WS facing for next row.

Continue in pattern, BO 2[2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] sts at beginning of next 2 WS rows, then -[-, -, -, 2, 2, 2] sts at beginning of next -[-, -, -, 1, 1, 2] WS row(s). 31[35, 39, 42, 44, 46, 48] sts.

Decrease row [RS]: Work in pattern as set to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. 1 st decreased.
Next row [WS]: Work even in pattern as set.
Repeat last 2 rows 4[4, 4, 4, 4, 3, 2] times more, ending after a WS row. 26[30, 34, 37, 39, 42, 45] sts remain for shoulder.


BO all sts in pattern.

Sleeves
Sew shoulder seams.

With RS facing, using the 16 inch/40 cm circular needle, rejoin yarn and pick up and knit 60[64, 72, 80, 88, 96, 100] sts evenly distributed between removable markers at armhole edge. Pm and join to work in the round.

Ribbing round: K1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Repeat last round 6 times more.

Note: Work the decreases in the ribbing pattern; the final stitch count might not be an even multiple of four, and so the ribbing pattern might not be tidy. That's fine – just make sure you continue the pattern as set.

Decrease round: K1, p2, k1, ssk, work in ribbing as set to last 6 sts, k2tog, k1, p2, k1. 2 sts decreased.
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 3, 3, 3] rounds even in pattern.
Repeat the last 6[6, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4] rounds 11[9, 6, 2, 20, 17, 17] times more, changing to needles for working small circumference when necessary. 36[44, 58, 74, 46, 60, 64] sts.

Sizes S-3X only:
Repeat Decrease round.
Work -[3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 1] rounds even in pattern.
Repeat last -[4, 4, 4, 2, 2, 2] rounds -[4, 10, 17, 2, 8, 9] times more.

All Sizes:
36[36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46] sts.

Work even in pattern as set until sleeve measures 18.5[18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18, 18] inches/ 47[47, 47, 47, 47, 45.5, 45.5] cm, or desired length.

BO in ribbing pattern.

Repeat for other Sleeve.

Cowl
With RS facing and starting at right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 28[28, 28, 30, 34, 36, 38] sts along back neck, 11[11, 11, 11, 13, 14, 15] sts down left front neck slope (including BO “steps”), 10[10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12] sts across center front neck BO, then finally 11[11, 11, 11, 13, 14, 15] sts up right front neck slope (including BO “steps”). 60[60, 60, 64, 72, 76, 80] sts. Pm and join to work in the round.

Ribbing round: [K2, p2] around.
Repeat last round until work measures 15 inches/38 cm from pick-up edge.

BO fairly loosely in ribbing pattern.

schematic


A: Back/Front bust width (not including 2 selvage stitches)
: 18.5[20.25, 22.25, 24.25, 26.25, 28, 30] inches / 47[51.5, 56.5, 61.5, 66.5, 71, 76] cm
B: Back length: 18[19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24] inches / 45.5[48.5, 51, 53.5, 56, 58.5, 61] cm
C: Front length: 16[17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22] inches/ 40.5[43, 45.5, 48.5, 51, 53.5, 56] cm
D: Armhole length: 6.5[7, 8, 9, 9.75, 10.5, 11.25] inches / 16.5[18, 20.5, 23, 25, 26.5, 28.5] cm
E: Shoulder width: 6.25[7.25, 8.25, 9, 9.5, 10.25, 11] inches / 1 cm
F: Back neck width: 7.25[7.25, 7.25, 7.75, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75] inches / 18.5[18.5, 18.5, 19.5, 22, 23.5, 25] cm
G: Upper arm circumference (ribbing relaxed): 12[12.75, 14.5, 16, 17.5, 19.25, 20] inches / 30.5[32.5, 37, 40.5, 44.5, 49, 51] cm
H: Sleeve length: 18.5[18.518.518.518.51818] inches/ 47[4747474745.545.5] cm
I: Cuff circumference (ribbing relaxed): 7.25[7.25, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 8.75, 9.25] inches / 18.5[18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 22, 23.5] cm
J: Cowl length: 15 inches / 38 cm
K: Cowl circumference (ribbing relaxed): 12[12, 12, 12.75, 14.5, 15.25, 16] inches / 30.5[30.5, 30.5, 32.5, 37, 38.5, 40.5] cm

FINISHING

Using a wool wash, soak the garment in lukewarm water for at least twenty minutes. Gently squeeze out as much of the moisture as you can, then roll in a towel to squeeze out more. Lay flat to dry.

Once dry, sew up side seams from underarms down to lower edge, ending at the top of the ribbing of the Front. Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designername Kate learned an awful lot about checking gauge from the project that inspired this one.

Her latest book, The Knitter's Dictionary, shares those lessons with you.

Pattern & images © 2018 Kate Atherley.